Recent content by oil_film_movies

Originally Posted by RDY4WAR Strangely, I feel like I'm getting the same way since joining BITOG. I've been using Amsoil SS and, more recently, Driven LS30 in my Tahoe for high HTHS and low NOACK (3.5 cP and 6% with LS30) since I tow a 6000 lbs race program several times a month, sometimes 500+...

Vapor lock easier with E15? Cleaner fuel injectors maybe (benefit)? The lowered energy density is certainly something I can confirm (lower MPG), yet I mostly have "chemistry" questions here.

NissanHauler, good choices. ... Castrol has a good reputation. Can't go wrong with that. Fram Ultra is the best and it stands alone. It will do 80% at 5 microns, unequaled. You mentioned the Chrysler spec. It's a low bar. Not much at all to consider. GM's dexos1 Gen2 is the tougher one to look for.

Originally Posted by dawgn86 Black cap is SN mfg Oct 2018. Clear is SN plus mfg April 2019 Should be fine to mix SN (high Ca, low Mg) with SN+ (low Ca, higher Mg). The risk is small there is some chemical incompatability nobody on this site can identify.

Baveux, 53' Stude has experience with a lot of Frams and non-Frams. For him to say Fram is OK means something. As for Motorcraft, there is some evidence on bitog they may get holes in their media, not good, being made by Purolator, same. Actually, I'd use a Fram Ultra XG10575, my fav for it's...

A Cautionary Tale indeed. Good post

Given the usage, cold starts with high speed driving, I'd say one-up the Owner's Manual recommendation of 5w20 and go with Mobil1 AFE 0w30 as some others have recommended here. A full syn, which is better than the minimum swill Chrysler wants, & it splits the difference between 5w20 and the SRT...

FWIW, a sample of one, a friend of mine has an '18 Civic 1.5T, and the dipstick level is not rising. He's a mechanic, so when I spoke to him about the fuel dilution issue, he understood and said the level has been steady, even over a rough winter or two. Now I wonder what % of these things...

fsdork's remarks and others above nail the issue. I say don't remove the oil filter. Having a little used oil in there won't hurt anything. If you do want to remove it, then: 1. Don't put it back on IF it was tightened down very hard. I had this happen recently (dealership oil filter) where...

Pour into a clear jar and do a color comparison. If somebody swapped in cheaper, say, SuperTech conventional in there, I think the color would be different. And the cap seal of course.

Tough one. On the back of the bottles, look at the API "donut". If one has SN Plus and one has SN, then, technically, it's a different formula and shouldn't be mixed. If cautious anyway. Doubt it would create any problems though. Oil "quality" should be similar. Also, tell us the numbers...

Originally Posted by rooflessVW I don't run a thicker oil in the summer. I run a thinner oil in winter. Any reasons for that? I hope I can ask you without hurting your feelings. Another profanity-laced tirade and/or profane graphics like you posted recently, would not further the purpose of...

Blackstone comments are good. (They aren't always!) Healthy engine with a great oil. No bad numbers. Could have gone another 3,000 miles with that high TBN at the end. Originally Posted by dhellman12 Amsoil ...This oil was changed when the Jeep oil light came on at 7,500 miles. Using...

Na and no K means it's not anti-freeze coolant. Wow, in TX you're not getting salt on roads, which is what I've blamed slightly elevated Na on in the past, getting in via dust particles past the air filter..... Puzzling.

Yes, could have run it a little longer, around 2,000 more miles given the high TBN. And viscosity was hanging in there, looking like heavy-side xw20 oils at the end, which was your goal probably. Amsoil SS works well, low iron ppm, just the fuel dilution is there to wonder whether or not it's...