Recent content by brad_d

Originally Posted By: MrCritical Are you erasing the codes, or just turning the light off? If you're asking me, I'm (I guess) talking about erasing the codes. I wasn't aware there was an option to turn the light off without clearing the code. What purpose would that serve, anyway? I'm not...

I've always treated resetting the code to see if it comes back as a legitimate diagnostic technique. Do you guys not feel that way?

I've experimented with stopping my '97 Mazda pickup in a parking lot using only the (foot-operated) parking brake. It works, but only if you're not in a real hurry to get stopped. You can't apply it very firmly - the rear wheels lock up really easily....

My '97 B2300 (a Ranger with Mazda badging) has 210,000 miles on the original clutch, and it's still going. I'd describe my driving much like you do. There's a good chance your clutch is barely broken in!

It seems to differ by car maker - you'll need to check your owner's manual (or some other source) to be sure. You can also do what jmac suggests - do both. If you can't tell a difference, then you'll know it doesn't really matter. If you can tell hot and cold readings apart, at least you'll get...

I'm referring to the fluid in my post above - not the filter. On re-reading my post I see I wasn't too clear about that.... The filter is not mentioned anywhere in the owner's manual as a service item. If you look up this vehicle on Wix's website, for example, there is no listing for an ATF filter.

Our '06 Accord doesn't even tell you what the recommended interval is: "Change it when the Maintenance Minder says to." It might be based simply on mileage, or the algorithm could take other factors into consideration. Either way, Honda doesn't let the owner in on the secret....

Our '06 Accord w/ the 2.4L I4 engine does kind of the same thing. I don't recall the number off the top of my head, but when I put the manual-recommended amount of oil in after a change, the oil level on the dipstick shows up barely to the "Low" mark. I've started adding about 0.5 qt more than...

Kragens in greater Los Angeles generally have Chevron 5W-20, in my experience. Last time I was in one (Woodruff & South in Lakewood, last weekend), I saw plenty of it. They also carry Havoline, but apparently not in that viscosity grade (5W-30 and 10W-30 only, that I saw).

Sorry - 5 quarts is the listed capacity on an oil change.

Thanks again for all the feedback, all. Oil consumption is negligible - too low to notice any on the dipstick after 3,500-4,000 miles. For much of its early life it got Purolator PremiumPlus filters, then a few PureOnes, and now I'm using Wix. It's had the occasional Motorcraft, Bosch, and...

Wow - thanks for the responses, all! Y'all have some good questions; let me try to answer them: The Mazda owner's manual specifies (IIRC) 10W-30, with 5W-30 permitted if temperatures never go above 100F. The Ford-printed sticker on the radiator support just says 5W-30, period. Sometime in the...

1997 Mazda B2300 (2.3L I4 Lima engine), 203,000 miles on it when these photos were taken in early April. Full-sized versions of these photos and a few more taken that day may be seen here: I've had the vehicle since new. It sees a lot of Los Angeles freeway miles. It's had various brands...

I've got a '97 Ranger-clone Mazda B2300 with that Lima 2.3, and yeah - it's not exactly quick. It is practically indestructible, and adequate for my needs. 206,000 miles and going strong, despite a lot of full-throttle, rev-it-to-5,000 freeway merges. Even so, I'm averaging north of 25 MPG these...

I agree. I haven't driven the Camry, but our '06 Accord with the 2.4L I4 has plenty of oomph. All this talk about not being able to accelerate at highway speeds is nonsense, IMO. I've been pleasantly surprised - when you give it gas, it GOES. I cannot see needing or wanting the V6 on this car...