I took my car in to walmart for tire replacement..3 days later I took my wheel covers off to retorque the lugnuts and noticed copper colored metallic residue at the open end of the lugnuts..could it be antisieze compound?? and is it ok to use them on lugnuts?? TIA
antisieze compound on lugnuts??
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Good question. Doesn't seem appropriate to me.
Manufactures say no anti-sieze on the threads. They have chemically treated the threads so as to produce a specific wheel to rim pressure with a specific torque wrench value. Probably no problem so just check that the nuts stay tight.
I use regular chassis grease on the lugs and the contact area on the hubs, havent lost awheel yet. And the wheels come off when I want them to.
Lots of people who read manuals but have rarely ever torqued a lug nut predict dire consequences when putting antisieze on lug nuts. However... I've put antisieze on lug nuts routinely on my own and customers' vehicles and heavy equipment for well over a decade. Never encountered a single problem from it... and saved A LOT of heartache for the next guy (which has been me on occasion).
If you're concerned about overtorque, then just decrease the torque by 10%.
Yes, some some lug nuts are plated- rendering antisieze unneccesary at least for a while. But give it a little time and a little corrosion, and you'll get MUCH more consistent torque with antisieze on the threads than with dry threads.
But for the faint of heart... oil works fine, too.
If you're concerned about overtorque, then just decrease the torque by 10%.
Yes, some some lug nuts are plated- rendering antisieze unneccesary at least for a while. But give it a little time and a little corrosion, and you'll get MUCH more consistent torque with antisieze on the threads than with dry threads.
But for the faint of heart... oil works fine, too.
I antiseeze my wheels .no problems
why?
What happens when the fasteners rust up ?
I always anti-seize the lugs whenever I remove the wheel for whatever reason. The stuff stays on so well that sometimes I can skip an application.
What's happening is you're keeping the lug threads from getting peeled off by the lug nuts.
I like to use the silver Permatex compound; I've never tried the copper stuff. It may be just fine, but I tend to stick (no pun intended) with what's tried and true.
What's happening is you're keeping the lug threads from getting peeled off by the lug nuts.
I like to use the silver Permatex compound; I've never tried the copper stuff. It may be just fine, but I tend to stick (no pun intended) with what's tried and true.
some equate antisieze with nuts coming loose. does not happen.
Lots of discussion here there and everywhere. Well, almost everywhere.
Seen the tables that tell of how much to alter the torque setting if grease or anti-seize or oil etc. is placed upon the threads.
Forgot where I saw it but believe it wasn't a huge torque difference.
Some bellow to NEVER lube the lugs or the studs. Others have done it for years with no problem, apparently.
I did it now and then and more often back here in the land of salt on the road in winter.
Haven't done it to the Silverado yet since I see no evidence of any rust.
If i do will likely lightly coat the stud threads with that silver-colored anti-seize. As the biped above stated, the stuff seems to hang in there, not requiring reapplication every time a wheel is taken off and on.
Also, it doesn't subjectively appear to me that anti-seize adds as much "slipperiness" as oil or grease might. You gotta' have friction for a nut to stay where it's supposed to be.
While we're at it, remember to thank our friend friction because we'd be in deep doo doo if it wasn't there!!!!!!
An object in motion tends to stay in motion until acted upon by an outside force. Maybe chaos theory or quantum mechanics disagrees but supposing it's true.... without friction we would be living in a very fast-paced society in constant motion. Suggesting to others to slow down would be futile!!!!!!!
If you live where climatic and man-made conditions do not tend to promote rust, I doubt if you need to lube the lugs or studs. If rust is present or possible, may not do any harm to protect those threads. I would avoid anything that is too slippery, though. Just in case. Just to be safe. I guess.
If my advice leads to a wheel falling off and a major catastrophe occurring, don't bother suing. It ain't my shanty (I rent) and the Coot is basically broke.
Seen the tables that tell of how much to alter the torque setting if grease or anti-seize or oil etc. is placed upon the threads.
Forgot where I saw it but believe it wasn't a huge torque difference.
Some bellow to NEVER lube the lugs or the studs. Others have done it for years with no problem, apparently.
I did it now and then and more often back here in the land of salt on the road in winter.
Haven't done it to the Silverado yet since I see no evidence of any rust.
If i do will likely lightly coat the stud threads with that silver-colored anti-seize. As the biped above stated, the stuff seems to hang in there, not requiring reapplication every time a wheel is taken off and on.
Also, it doesn't subjectively appear to me that anti-seize adds as much "slipperiness" as oil or grease might. You gotta' have friction for a nut to stay where it's supposed to be.
While we're at it, remember to thank our friend friction because we'd be in deep doo doo if it wasn't there!!!!!!
An object in motion tends to stay in motion until acted upon by an outside force. Maybe chaos theory or quantum mechanics disagrees but supposing it's true.... without friction we would be living in a very fast-paced society in constant motion. Suggesting to others to slow down would be futile!!!!!!!
If you live where climatic and man-made conditions do not tend to promote rust, I doubt if you need to lube the lugs or studs. If rust is present or possible, may not do any harm to protect those threads. I would avoid anything that is too slippery, though. Just in case. Just to be safe. I guess.
If my advice leads to a wheel falling off and a major catastrophe occurring, don't bother suing. It ain't my shanty (I rent) and the Coot is basically broke.
Right; there's still plenty of friction between the outer lug nut and the wheel to keep them tight.
I always put anti-sieze on wheel studs!! If I run out of anti-sieze I use a moly ep grease. I havenever heard any manufacture caution against use it on wheel studs but have seen plenty caution against it on spark plugs. I also like to put some around the portion of the rim that touch's hub or drum lip as this area usaly rusts.
I have not used a torque wrench on a wheel since I was an aprentice!!! We had to not because of problems but because some of the smaller guys could not break a wheel lose with out impact wrench when us bigger stronger guys had a go at those lug nuts. Today I often go a step farther on my own vechiles and will just turn my impact gun down to setting two and tighten them up that way. I have yet to have a problem! Now I would not use anti-sieze on head bolts,rod bolts, main cap bolt's etc.....I hear ARP has an anti-sieze that will not affect TQ spec. reading but I have not tried it.
I have not used a torque wrench on a wheel since I was an aprentice!!! We had to not because of problems but because some of the smaller guys could not break a wheel lose with out impact wrench when us bigger stronger guys had a go at those lug nuts. Today I often go a step farther on my own vechiles and will just turn my impact gun down to setting two and tighten them up that way. I have yet to have a problem! Now I would not use anti-sieze on head bolts,rod bolts, main cap bolt's etc.....I hear ARP has an anti-sieze that will not affect TQ spec. reading but I have not tried it.
As I recall, I put some antiseize on a spark plug and had trouble with the plug getting loose. So I am thinking whether the lug nuts could loosen from road vibrations.
Anyway, I don't see a great need for antiseize on lug nuts. I have never had trouble and I surely live in the rust belt. We get piles of salt on our roads up here. Also if you are in the habit of periodically rotating your tires, that should keep the threads and nuts in good working order.
I took my folks' Park Avenue into Wal-Mart for a rotation and rebalance. It wasn't my first choice, but 1) It was the closest place to their house and 2) It was a Sunday.
One thing that I noticed, was that there was already a small amount of anti-sieze on the threads (this would have been from the GM dealer that previously did *all* of the work on the car).
However, the thing that impressed me was the technician took the torque wrench and tightened all of the lug nuts. Then he called a guy over from the other bay, he checked the setting on the torque wrench, and then checked all of the lugnuts.
I asked the tech who did the work on my car, and he told me that this is Wal-Mart's 5 minute solution to avoid getting sued for a wheel coming off. Two guys check all of the lug nuts before it leaves the shop.
That kind of attention is fine with me.
One thing that I noticed, was that there was already a small amount of anti-sieze on the threads (this would have been from the GM dealer that previously did *all* of the work on the car).
However, the thing that impressed me was the technician took the torque wrench and tightened all of the lug nuts. Then he called a guy over from the other bay, he checked the setting on the torque wrench, and then checked all of the lugnuts.
I asked the tech who did the work on my car, and he told me that this is Wal-Mart's 5 minute solution to avoid getting sued for a wheel coming off. Two guys check all of the lug nuts before it leaves the shop.
That kind of attention is fine with me.
Two guys checking lug's eh? That's a ---- good idea if you ask me. Kinda of surprised that Wal-Mart of all places would do that.
Also surprised that he used a torque wrench. I wish less places used impact guns
Also surprised that he used a torque wrench. I wish less places used impact guns
Just to toss in my 2 cents worth. Years ago I tried to change a flat. Did I get the experience of my life in trying too break loose rusty lug nuts. I barely got the bolts off, after that I made a regular habit on torque wrenching any lug nut to the proper specs of 85-100lbs, and a dab of antiseize compond. This was 5 yrs ago I never encountered a loose lugnut on a brake job.
If you choose to use anti-seize on the lugnuts, stay closer to the low end of the recommend torque range than the high end.
I do use a thread lubricant on all aluminum and titanium threads to prevent galling. I'll also use it on steel threads sometimes if the threads are rough and/or rusty.
I do use a thread lubricant on all aluminum and titanium threads to prevent galling. I'll also use it on steel threads sometimes if the threads are rough and/or rusty.
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