3000GT VR4 twin turbo oil? GC or M1???

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JHZR2

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Hi,

My brother just bought an immaculate 1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 twin-turbo, AWD, etc. It is perfect, a really great car. the PO always took it to the dealer, who did changes with 10w-30 (Ill bet synthetic of some sort).
Now I am advising him on simple maintenance and want to figure out the best oil.

Some background: the owners manual says 10w-30 should be used. 5w-30 may be used if it will be permanently freezing or very cold. Otherwise 10w-30 is what to use.

M1 10w-30 is a good oil. However, with the turbos in this car, Im thinking an A3 oil would be better to deal with the heat and shear, etc. SO german castrol fits the bill there, plus its a bit thicker, so should hold the 30wt better.
My brother will use the car some around town, where the oil wont get up to temp.

So Im thinking even though the manual says that 5w-30 should only be used in the really cold, that GC 0w-30 is the best.

Any suggestions? The car runs great, and want to keep it that way.

Thanks!

JMH
 
I'd use Red Line and 10W-40. That's what I'll be using in my Porsche Cayenne Turbo this summer in very hot Phoenix. I use RL 5W-40 in nonsummer.
 
quote:

Originally posted by tec97:

quote:

Originally posted by Jelly:
Paging SkortchGT
Paging SkortchGT...


Isn't Skortch having very good luck w/ Shell Rotella T 5W40?


He has an engine that's on it's last leg .

This is a good engine yet it seems from the post and I'd try to keep it that way and I think JHZR2 and his brother will notice quicker turbo spool and better all round protection with the Castrol 0w-30 synthetic .

If the sale at Autozone is still going that oil actually cost around 3.50 a quart when it's said and done . That extra 50 cents a quart buys a world class oil that can take on all comers in the correct application and a twin turbo engine is one of those correct applications .

If motor oils could race that German Castrol would lay it on the Shell 5w-40 in every concievable way in a gasoline engine
tongue.gif
 
Oils have improved big time since 1994. Their statement didn't even imply using a synthetic. You would be fine with either oil.
 
I have one of these, a 97 with 24,000 miles. Original owner (for 5400 miles) used M1 10W30) I converted to Amsoil soon after purchase as the oil had been in there for over a year (analysis was fine by the way) My owners manual also stated a 10W40 could be used. If you go to the web site for this car they use everything up to 15W50. Many use dino. Do a search under 3si.org for the web site.

I have been using the Amsoil 10W30 for 3 years now, basically a one year oil and filter change but I put on less then 5000 miles a year. The UOA has been good but Lead a little high but may be expected. Last year I also used the BREW in this engine (3 parts Schaeffer #132 TO 1 P Part Lube Control) added 8 ounces. This resulted in a best ever UOA.

Note, these 6 spd transmissions are terrible when cold, shift very hard. A world of difference when I went to the RedLine MT-90 and MTL at a 50-50 mix in the transmission and transfer case. Rear end is the 75W90.
This engine is actually pretty durable, I do not believe (like a Camry V6) this engine is tough on oil or shears it down quickly. You can go with RedLine oil but overkill on this engine, M1 or Amsoil (10W30 or 0W30) should be fine.
My lead numbers are:
Lead
36 ppm
72
48
31 (less then 2500 miles in the year)
15 (less then 2500 Miles in the year) (Brew used)
 
Thanks for the PM Jelly.
smile.gif


I have a 1992 VR4. Has a little over 147,000 on the clock. My engine is not on it's last leg though.
smile.gif
A compression test that was done last summer showed 150psi in 4 cylinders, and 148psi in two cylinders, extremely good numbers for an engine with this kind of mileage. Rod bearings were replaced with Clevite 77 bearings for preventive measures. Never had rod knock. Oil pressure is great. It does burn alot of oil, but this is due to the turbos being on there last leg (blowing alot of oil into the engine), and i also need some new valve seals. I have a set of stock turbos waiting to be installed by me when I have the time.

Anyway, check out this these threads:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=005207#000017

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=005852#000000

I have had excellent experiences with Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40. My engine runs a **** of alot smoother, and this oil can stand up to the heat of our small turbos. When the summer hits full blown, I will be switching another HDEO oil like a 15w-40, such as Penzoil Long Life or Chevron Delo.

Also, please see this website-
http://www.3si.org/forum/index.php

This is the 3000GT & Stealth owners forum. This site is a bottomless pit of information when it comes to our cars. My board name is the same on 3Si as it is on here: SkortchGT. Hope this helps.
smile.gif
 
Good to hear of your experiences with the Rotella 5w-40.

Like I keep saying, I just wish more people would try the oils I "suggest" before condemning my recommendations. If you don't want to use an oil I suggest, then fine, but don't tell me how much they suck when you've never used them (sorry...little rant
grin.gif
).

Edit - Why do you want to switch to a 15w-40 for the summer?

[ April 26, 2004, 11:11 AM: Message edited by: Jelly ]
 
quote:

Originally posted by Spector:
This engine is actually pretty durable, I do not believe (like a Camry V6) this engine is tough on oil or shears it down quickly. You can go with RedLine oil but overkill on this engine, M1 or Amsoil (10W30 or 0W30) should be fine.

Well, as the turbos on this car are not water-cooled, I'd think using a highly shear-resistant oil would be a reasonable idea based on the higher levels of heat it will see cooling the turbos. I guess I don't see using the word overkill in conjunction with oil in a turbocharged application!
 
I use Redline 10W-30 in my TT Supra and it works well. (lots of Moly!!) During my last oil change I actually blended 1 qt 20W-50 with 4 qts of 10W-30 to thicken it up just a tad.

I won't use any Castrol product. I don't reward companies that engage in consumer deception. (ie Syntec)

If I couldn't get Redline locally I'd probably be happy with M1. Maybe even the Delvac 1 under the M1 Truck/SUV label.


quote:

Originally posted by JHZR2:
Hi,

My brother just bought an immaculate 1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 twin-turbo, AWD, etc. It is perfect, a really great car. the PO always took it to the dealer, who did changes with 10w-30 (Ill bet synthetic of some sort).
Now I am advising him on simple maintenance and want to figure out the best oil.

Some background: the owners manual says 10w-30 should be used. 5w-30 may be used if it will be permanently freezing or very cold. Otherwise 10w-30 is what to use.

M1 10w-30 is a good oil. However, with the turbos in this car, Im thinking an A3 oil would be better to deal with the heat and shear, etc. SO german castrol fits the bill there, plus its a bit thicker, so should hold the 30wt better.
My brother will use the car some around town, where the oil wont get up to temp.

So Im thinking even though the manual says that 5w-30 should only be used in the really cold, that GC 0w-30 is the best.

Any suggestions? The car runs great, and want to keep it that way.

Thanks!

JMH


 
quote:

Originally posted by davefr:
I won't use any Castrol product. I don't reward companies that engage in consumer deception. (ie Syntec)

cool.gif
- w3rd. I think I actually said once that Castrol could produce the finest oil ever made and I wouldn't buy it for this reason.

AFA your Supra, that engine is so bullet-proof, you could probably run straight 30 weight in it and it wouldn't even grunt...
tongue.gif
 
tec97-

The turbos on all 3000GT VR4's and Stealth TT's are water cooled. They have collant feed and return lines.

Jelly-
I will definetly be switching to a 15w-40 HDEO oil for the summer. I'll probably give Chevron Delo a shot first and see how that works out. I like the high flash point.
 
quote:

Originally posted by SkortchGT:
tec97-

The turbos on all 3000GT VR4's and Stealth TT's are water cooled. They have collant feed and return lines.


Well shut my mouth! I didn't think they were cranking out watercooled turbos in the early 90s on production cars! Learn something new every day!
 
Thanks for all the info...

I was originally tied between delvac 1/M1 truck and suv 5W-40 and German Castrol.

Judging by the mileage I think he'll be putting on the engine, and the intervals (I dont think its good to keep oil in a non-sitting engien for more than 6-12 months) of probably 6 months or a bit more, that Rotella 5w-40 and GC 0w-30 will be my two choices. I liek rotella synth, it wasnt great in my chevy truck, but from a pure HT/HS type standpoint, ill bet it provides really good protection. As does the GC, which is a bit heavy.

UGH! I like the GC because its heavy but still a 30wt oil. But rotella is a great deal, especially knowing that he wont get more than 3000 mles between changes. However, Id rather stray from the 40wt oils at this point because of manual specs and the fact that the engine is still very tight and excellent.

Redline would be a good choice, as the lighter oils provide pretty strong films; I bet their 10w-30 is an exellent oil. However the cost is very high, and Im not convinced about it really providing that much better protection.

The manual does spec 20w-40, 15w-40 5w-40, 5w-30, etc for the non-turbo v6. But really only 10w-30 for the turbo one. They must have had some reasons, even if just to eek out a couple more hp?

Thanks,

JMH
 
quote:

Originally posted by JHZR2:
Thanks for all the info...

I was originally tied between delvac 1/M1 truck and suv 5W-40 and German Castrol.

Judging by the mileage I think he'll be putting on the engine, and the intervals (I dont think its good to keep oil in a non-sitting engien for more than 6-12 months) of probably 6 months or a bit more, that Rotella 5w-40 and GC 0w-30 will be my two choices. I liek rotella synth, it wasnt great in my chevy truck, but from a pure HT/HS type standpoint, ill bet it provides really good protection. As does the GC, which is a bit heavy.

UGH! I like the GC because its heavy but still a 30wt oil. But rotella is a great deal, especially knowing that he wont get more than 3000 mles between changes. However, Id rather stray from the 40wt oils at this point because of manual specs and the fact that the engine is still very tight and excellent.

Redline would be a good choice, as the lighter oils provide pretty strong films; I bet their 10w-30 is an exellent oil. However the cost is very high, and Im not convinced about it really providing that much better protection.

The manual does spec 20w-40, 15w-40 5w-40, 5w-30, etc for the non-turbo v6. But really only 10w-30 for the turbo one. They must have had some reasons, even if just to eek out a couple more hp?

Thanks,

JMH


Interesting that they only spec. one oil for the turbo...I've never heard of such a thing before.

What problems did you have using Rotella 5w-40 in your Chevy truck?

If consumption is good with 30 weights, and you want to run a 30 weight, then by all means, run a 30 weight (whew...)...forget about the 5w-40's and run a 10w-30. Forget Mobil1 though if you're talking 10w-30's (too thin and too weak of an additive package for this application, IMHO) and try either Amsoil or Redline. Like you said, cost is higher though, and they aren't widely available, so that decision is up to you...

I really do feel though that a 5w-40 would be a great oil for this application (Redline 5w-40, Rotella, Delvac 1, etc..) providing you with very fast flow on startup, but giving you great protection under "hard" running conditions.
 
rotella didnt cause any problems, but rather seemed to sucka little bit of power according to the butt dyno, and didnt produce any better numbers than anything else.

JMH
 
Jelly-
I was thinking a 15w-40 might protect better during the summer heat? Let me know what you think.


Also, the service manual for the twin turbo 3000GT's/Stealth do not specify to only use a 10w-30 oil, unless I am reading something wrong. They have a chart in there where you pick a specific weight based on your climate. 10w-30 just won't stand up to the heat these engines produce, unless you change the oil every 2000 miles. I used to do that using Castrol GTX. It's so cheap, so I changed my oil like crazy before I started using Rotella 5w-40.
 
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