99' Honda Superhawk Rotella T6 5w-40 syn 3,500mi

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Here is a UOA from my Honda Superhawk VTR1000, a 115hp V-twin streetbike. This is about 3,500 miles over 6 months, the bike has 58k miles total. For as much as the Shell Rotella T6 sheared, the wear metals are really low with this inexpensive Walmart-sourced oil!

superhawk-1.jpg
 
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Try regular conventional rotella. It shears far less and has a stronger add pack. I use it in all my shared sump bikes and its more than capable of going the same mileage that you just went on this interval. And it costs less.
 
No issues with the clutch at all.

That's an interesting idea with using the conventional rotella over synthetic. I guess having a much lower HTHS being a 15w, it is likely to have a thicker base and as such, can't shear. With my last UOA I thought it only sheared due to the fuel, but with less fuel in this sample I guess the 5w-40 really does thin out. There are a couple other UOAs with T6 Syn in a honda that show similar shearing.

Can't argue with the wear metals though! :)
 
Originally Posted By: smonska
I guess having a much lower HTHS being a 15w,

What is HT/HS for Rotella T 15w-40? If anything, I'd expect the T to have a higher HT/HS than the T6 5w-40.
 
Originally Posted By: smonska
No issues with the clutch at all.

That's an interesting idea with using the conventional rotella over synthetic. I guess having a much lower HTHS being a 15w, it is likely to have a thicker base and as such, can't shear. With my last UOA I thought it only sheared due to the fuel, but with less fuel in this sample I guess the 5w-40 really does thin out. There are a couple other UOAs with T6 Syn in a honda that show similar shearing.

Can't argue with the wear metals though! :)


No. You can't however does that bike have cylinder liners. I know my 1100 v-star had ceramic cylinder liners,so wear metals were always very low.
Getting back to the conventional vs syn I found in my 750 shadow,my 450 nighthawk,1100 v4 venture and my 1100 v-star ,all of those bikes were much less noisy in operation using conventional rotella vs M1 10w-40 mc specific oil/Amsoil 10w-40mc oil/Amsoil 0w-40 powersports oil.
I found that with all the syns listed(and a few more I've forgotten) shifting became notchy and shifting gears became a bit touchy as well as alot more top end noise almost like clockwork at 2000 miles. Yes the oil could have gone further but changing it made the bikes operate as usual.
With conventional rotella I found that those issues didn't present themselves til at least 3000 miles(or longer) before a change was required to improve shift characteristics.
Now I'm sure all of these oils can go longer in the sumps of these bikes and still protect the engine however it was shift quality that necessitated the change,not the oil being overwhelmed, so based on that I figured why spend more money on these bike specific fluids when rotella costs less and actually lasted longer in my bikes. Made no sense to me anyways.
Now if those premium bike oils or any syn oil kept my bikes shifting nice for double the mileage that rotella does,then I would use them,simply because it would be a better value however since rotella costs half as much and lasts as long or in my case a minimum of 30% longer its a no brainer to me.
And 5 gallon pails of rotella can be has for 65 bucks. To use a syn in the bikes I listed I would need 10-11 quarts at 15 a quart retail here,so 150-165 per oil change,or I can get 3-4 oil changes per bike for 65 bucks.
Even if rotella only lasted half as long as a syn bike oil it would still be a better value.
I think shift quality and shear are directly related in my shared sump bikes,and once the oil has sheared it negatively affects shifting,in my case.
And I will be using rotella in my 107hp/115tqS&S powered Harley this year just to prove it can be done. I'm already using it in my primary and my stock clutch doesn't slip.
Anyways I hope something I wrote an help someone save a buck.
 
trace of fuel ruined the susvis and flash. who knows if that was 5pts worth or not.

one might think copper is high but the bike is 15 years old.

you could change to the normal 15w40 but you dont have to.

nothing to see here really, move along. these are not the droids you are looking for.

steve
 
VTR does not have cylinder liners, they are steel.

Back to the oil question, you could perhaps try a 50/50 mix of Rotella mineral and T6......
 
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Originally Posted By: sunruh
trace of fuel ruined the susvis and flash. who knows if that was 5pts worth or not.

one might think copper is high but the bike is 15 years old.

you could change to the normal 15w40 but you dont have to.

nothing to see here really, move along. these are not the droids you are looking for.

steve


I love your commentary. You must be a blast in person.
OP
When it comes to bikes and uoa interpretation on them sunruh is the man and I would accept his opinion as gospel.
Not the droids you are looking for. Classic
 
OP,
do you know why the stoners want you to resample at 5000? (suprised it wasnt 4600) so they get you to spend more money with them. then the next time will be resample at 5250 and so on and so on. finally the tbn will be to low and then they will say to resample at 5100 or some number lower but quite as high.

it's a 15yo motor. technically, by law, NOBODY has to make parts for your bike.

if you like synth run the 5w40 (blue jug). if you like convt run the 15w40 (white jug). either way, we love the jugs!

steve
 
I got to agree with you, thanks for the input on the synthetics.
I use the 15/40s in the winter here in SC and have used the Rotella 15/40 too. Completely agree, the higher "base" number 15, it will not shear as fast.
I found a new favorite for my HOT summers here in SC and that is the Valvoline 4 stroke conventional motorcycle oil in 20/50 weight.
Even though I only went 2700 miles on it last summer, still shifted like new oil when I changed it. Posted a UOA on the 2 or 3rd page of this forum.
Best part is, some Walmarts carry it for $4. a quart and you can alos order from their website.
I still use 15/40 winter and posted a UOA on that.
 
I used to own a 98 superhawk until a retiree decided I looked better as a rear view mirror ornament.

I tried lots of different oils but the ones that seemed to work the best were 15-40 rotella and 15-50 mobil 1. the 5-40 seemed to thin out way too fast. I used bosch filters and 5k mile or 6 month change intervals. It used less than a qt between changes.

SUPER under appreciated motorcycles. I am probably going to get another superhawk as an xmas present to myself.
 
not related to the topic but if you are using the original style voltage regulator chuck it and get a hold of one from a 1st gen yamaha r6 and mod the wires to make it work. Honda makes fantastic motorcycles but for some unknown reason they choose to put undersized regulators on them. The original one will fail suddenly without any kind of warning and you will be stranded. The yamaha part will last forever and can be found cheaper than the honda one anyway.

the other trouble spot is the cam chain tensioners which can suddenly fail as well.
 
I would hope that with 58K+ miles on the counter he is already aware of these issues..... though your advice is pertinent if he's not.....
 
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