2012 Honda Civic R18 - Mobile1 0W-20

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Originally Posted By: Kool1
Your silicon is high. Are you running a K&N air filter?


No, factory air filter, no mods to the engine
 
Elevated Silicon levels are fine for such young engine. You can already see it trending down. Silicon levels should level off close to universal average once you hit close to 20-25k miles.
 
Originally Posted By: KHP
Elevated Silicon levels are fine for such young engine. You can already see it trending down. Silicon levels should level off close to universal average once you hit close to 20-25k miles.


Thank You for the info...I was wondering.
 
Was brought to my attention the flashpoint was failure. Any thoughts/explanation?
 
Originally Posted By: DiggerCivic
Was brought to my attention the flashpoint was failure. Any thoughts/explanation?


What does your driving consist of?

Do you do a lot of short trips (<10 minute trips)? A lot of highway? What's your average commute distance? Do you drive the engine hard or are you easy on it?
 
Originally Posted By: KHP
Originally Posted By: DiggerCivic
Was brought to my attention the flashpoint was failure. Any thoughts/explanation?


What does your driving consist of?

Do you do a lot of short trips (div>


My daily commute is 60 miles round trip. I drive the engine easy, not hard at all. Very few short trips, however, the daily commute is a 60 hwy/40 city.
 
The oil sheared a lot. Out of the bottle, Mobil1 0w/20 has a 100C cSt of 8.7; the 6.58 in your UOA is odd, as is the flashpoint. Maybe the Mazda 0w/20 will fare better, but not sure the M1 is the best match for your engine.
 
Interesting that your Al accumulation rate went up with the second OCI, 30ppm in 5,000 mi vs 27 ppm in 7,600 mi. My 2011 Civic did the same thing. My first change was the new Honda "Ultimate" API SN synthetic oil, and it held up pretty well, I then did two fills on the Idemitsu SM formula with high moly. Idemitsu was Honda's supplier until 2011, but I got the oil from Subaru. The Idemitsu oil did not do particularly well in my engine. I'll be interested to see how the new Idemitsu made Mazda formulation does in an R18.

Your Silicon levels are high, just like mine were with the factory air filter. I did some comparisons with aftermarket filter elements and came to the conclusion that the OEM filter element perimeter seals were to blame. I swapped it for a Napa Select (formerly Napa Silver) filter, and my Si accumulation rate dropped dramatically. I haven't made time to write up my measurements yet, but I looked at a Fram, Purolator, Napa Gold (WIX) and Napa Select (also WIX?) and came to the conclusion the Napa Select had the best seals. The filter element itself looked better on the OEM filter and the Napa Gold, but the Select had the best seals. Consider swapping out the filter early if the silicon continues to read high in your next sample. Do a search on my username for my UOAs, the latest one has commentary about Silicon and Aluminum levels.

I've got M1 0w20 in my car now, and I do mostly longer trips in an extra-urban environment with it. My trips are a bit shorter than yours, but our usage is broadly similar (few short trips). We'll see how mine comes back in a few months. Hopefully it shows less shear and fuel than yours.

To those who assume all Hondas are easy on oil, I think the J-series V6 and the R-series 4-cyl are exceptions to the rule. I've seen several R-series UOAs with pretty high fuel. I suspect the "semi-Atkinson" VTEC economy mode is to blame. Also my engine takes quite a while to warm up, something other R18 owners have noted, which may cause rich running.
 
Originally Posted By: walk23
The FF looks like a better fit than the M1 in this engine. More Moly til after break in ?


That's interesting that you can determine that with a new engine that only has 12K.
 
the fuel is killing the oil. it isn't uncommon for hondas. a few years ago people were having success reducing the fuel dilution in their hondas with Fram air filters. Not sure what made Fram better for that, but it was advised by Terry Dyson and it worked for most, I think.

One other choice you have is to put an aftermarket intake on the car. The intake seems more likely to make a difference to me than a Fram air filter, but just throwing it out there.
 
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