Marvel Mystery Oil or LC in Automatic Trans?

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Anyone tried it? Can it damage the trans? Any reasons not to put a quart or more MMO in an automatic transmission?

What about taking out a quart of tranny fluid and putting in a quart of LC for cleaning purposes?

I'm even considering trying ARX.

I have a 1996 Olds Silhouette, 120,000 miles, 3.4L engine. Runs good, but there is a vibration at around 50mph until you hit almost 60 mph. I don't know if it's in the trans or in the motor?

I am going to have a complete trans fliud drain or purge or whatever you want to call it, but before I do I want to do some cleaning. The trans shifts fine.
 
I, personally, am not big on stuff added to the tranny fluid....it is possible that the fluid in your tranny is just plain worn out....and shudder & abrupt shifting are several things that can be caused by worn out fluid.

There are friction modifiers that may be useful when used by the pro's....but improper usage of those and other stuff can cause much more damage than good.

But I would recommend a fluid exchange (just a complete drain and fill), with a filter change. The other thing is that I would be very careful and get the correct fluid that is specified for your year / engine/ car. If you can find a synthetic that meets the specifications.....I would use it.....if it is a reputable label (like Mobile 1 ATF for my car).

The BIG thing with trannys today....is changing the fluid at the specified interval.....Us minivan owners need to understand that it is a CAR transmission in there.....not a truck tranny.

You can have it done at a garage....and most will let you bring your own fluid. You do not need a "reverse flush" or any cleaners (problem is fully getting them fushed back out). Most places use a machine that adds new fluid as the old comes out.

You only get....at best 1/2 of the fluid by dropping the pan. I buy at least 15 quarts for my 12.25 capacity system.....and that should sufficiently clear out most of the old fluid. There is some mixing (old with new fluid) that takes place in the torque converter.....which is why I run some extra through.

[ November 13, 2005, 07:02 PM: Message edited by: wiswind ]
 
LC or Lube Guard in ATF only. I would definately not put the MMO in an automatic transmission. I would recomend ARX for cleaning if you want, followed by a double drain. Make sure to change the filter, your transmission has one, unlike the ARX info would have you believe.
 
Auto-Rx is the best for cleaning an automatic transmission. After that, I'd put the recommended fluid in the transmission, and synthetic if available. The use of Lubegard is up to you, but probably not needed after the Auto-Rx treatment. LC might add to the life of the new fluid.


Ken
 
I like TransX products and replace 1 qt of the ATF in a service with it. I service every 30,000 miles. If you run a synthetic like Mobil or Amsoil service the transmission and leave out the TransX. I just service every 30,000 miles and don't flush or drain out all the fluid. I just R&R what is drained out of the pan. This is on all my cars, my pickup has been a ginny pig for synthetics and I serviced the transmission between 50 and 60 thousand miles on Amsoil ATF. I just replaced the transmission on my Chrysler T&C and am pondering on going to Redline Chrysler spec ATF.
 
quote:

but there is a vibration at around 50mph until you hit almost 60 mph

Surfstar is the first in here- to suggest the more likally of you problems.... You have a wheel bearing going out, or a tire out of ballance. These are far more likally conditions to cause a vibration in a certain speed range...

if you are still worried about the tranny-
Get a T-flush on the tranny, tell them to leave it 1 qart low when done.... add arx when they are done., then top it off the rest the way.. (follow arx instructions exactly, for quantity to use in auto-tranny, and how long to drive it).... then have another T-flush done after the arx treatment.

arx was originally designed for use in cleaning out the gears and oiled systems of printing press machines- a transmission isn't much different, and it is the best product you could possibly put in an oiled-gear system for cleaning.
 
I've used MMO in the transmission, 10k before a fluid exchange, without any problems. No more than 16 oz. (1 pint) - MMO makes a similar sized 1 pint bottle too even..
 
I always had good luck with the BG Transmission additive. I did have a 95 Grand Prix that bounced in and out of gear. Turned out to be a sticky valve in the valvebody. Some Seafoam trans additive fixed that in combo after a complete flush with Maxlife ATF
 
Originally Posted By: wiswind


There are friction modifiers ... improper usage of those and other stuff can cause much more damage than good.


Damage such as...?
 
I'm a big fan of MMO, however a qt in an automatic transmission is a lot. It can be used in automatic transmissions but they recommend a lot less than a qt, I'm not sure of the exact amount though. Having said that I would use Lubegard instead of MMO or any other transmission additive for that matter. JMO
 
Originally Posted By: electrolover
i think its 16 oz. what would you rec for cleaning out some varnish in the valvebody?


I'd use exactly what they say run it for 1500-2000 miles drop the pan, change the filter, then do a line flush or Miti-vac out the contents of the pan until you've replaced the total capacity of the tranny plus 25%-50% more fluid. Please note don't overfill it! Overkill, maybe? Looking through my log I did exactly that with my Aerostar, then used LG red with the Ford spec'd ATF. 200,000K miles on the tranny with NY stop and go HD use, no problems!

It was too late to edit my above comments, I would only use MMO to do some cleaning for a short period of time in the tranny. I had an issue with a delay going into Reverse during extreme cold. I eliminated that problem.
 
I'd start by taking a look at your tires and suspension components. By the time you reach 50-60 MPH you have shifted a few times and it is strange that you would have problems with those shifts. Normally shifting problems happen down low as you use those more in stop and go driving.

If you do go the clean up route for your transmission, be very careful and do your research when adding anything to your automatic trans.
A transmission does not have a PCV valve like your engine does so liquids that normally burn off in an engine stay and get recirculated in a transmission.

I have added Auto RX, 6oz, and after 5000 miles added 2 oz of LC. Ran that for another 5000, then did a few drain and fills. I noticed more difference in the drain and fills than with the chemicals I added. This was with a 2002 Ford Taurus.

Not sure I would be comfortable adding more than 2-4 oz of MMO to my transmission. It won't burn off, and it could significantly alter the chemistry of the fluid that is in there. Small amounts of volatile components can change alot of fluids around them.

If you really need to clean it up I would look into Auto RX, and Amsoil's transmission flush. Get a product that is designed for the purpose you are looking at.

Also, I really like Valvoline Maxlife Dex/Merc as it seems to help clean up transmissions that have had fluids left in them too long.
 
Originally Posted By: SuperDave456
I'd start by taking a look at your tires and suspension components. By the time you reach 50-60 MPH you have shifted a few times and it is strange that you would have problems with those shifts. Normally shifting problems happen down low as you use those more in stop and go driving.


i dont want to be "that guy" but this thread is 6 years old. the op has likely sold the car by now
frown.gif
 
Originally Posted By: surfstar
Your vibration sounds like it could be a tire out of balance. Many times they vibrate in a certain speed range only.


Also could be a Hernia(bubble) on a tire's sidewall. This causes vibrations above 45.
 
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