The engine is almost new, so it would run hapily on a 10W for some time unless raced. Viscosity will only start to matter when it is worn or subject to severe service in temperature terms in particular.
Pennzoil Ultra 5W20 9,995mi 2011 Ford Mustang GT
- Thread starter KonaMustangGT
- Start date
- Status
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: dave1251
The thin is not in crowd does not have a leg to stand on in this situation.
Correct. Ford has adequate nannies in place (like neutering the engine when the oil temps get too high) that 5w-20/0w-20 is perfectly safe in this application.
Oh, so now we hear that they detuned it when hot to allow thin oil ?? How do you race such a car ??
This engine has various oils approved by LM from 0/20 to 5/40's, so it seems to be very easy on it's oil and OK on thin oil when new, because an approval for a 5/20 for use in Germany or the US is not given too easily as it's almost the same as saying you can use it for a race oil if the engine is not modded etc.
Originally Posted By: dave1251
The thin is not in crowd does not have a leg to stand on in this situation.
Correct. Ford has adequate nannies in place (like neutering the engine when the oil temps get too high) that 5w-20/0w-20 is perfectly safe in this application.
Oh, so now we hear that they detuned it when hot to allow thin oil ?? How do you race such a car ??
This engine has various oils approved by LM from 0/20 to 5/40's, so it seems to be very easy on it's oil and OK on thin oil when new, because an approval for a 5/20 for use in Germany or the US is not given too easily as it's almost the same as saying you can use it for a race oil if the engine is not modded etc.
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OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: skyship
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: dave1251
The thin is not in crowd does not have a leg to stand on in this situation.
Correct. Ford has adequate nannies in place (like neutering the engine when the oil temps get too high) that 5w-20/0w-20 is perfectly safe in this application.
Oh, so now we hear that they detuned it when hot to allow thin oil ?? How do you race such a car ??
You buy the Track-Pack version that spec's 5w-50
Or the BOSS 302, which spec's 5w-50 as well.
Oh, and IIRC, they BOTH (Track-Pack and BOSS 302) got oil coolers too.......
But for drag racing? The regular GT is fine. If you want to run a road course, those that had those intentions in mind likely knew enough at purchasing time to buy the car so equipped.
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: dave1251
The thin is not in crowd does not have a leg to stand on in this situation.
Correct. Ford has adequate nannies in place (like neutering the engine when the oil temps get too high) that 5w-20/0w-20 is perfectly safe in this application.
Oh, so now we hear that they detuned it when hot to allow thin oil ?? How do you race such a car ??
You buy the Track-Pack version that spec's 5w-50
Oh, and IIRC, they BOTH (Track-Pack and BOSS 302) got oil coolers too.......
But for drag racing? The regular GT is fine. If you want to run a road course, those that had those intentions in mind likely knew enough at purchasing time to buy the car so equipped.
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
Originally Posted By: volk06
Originally Posted By: skyship
15K miles should be fine if you use a long life oil filter as the oil is still in good condition. An engine of this size is under very light loads in the US unless you go racing, so it won't chew the oil up too fast unless you get stuck in traffic or short tripping. If you extend the OCI it would be good to know the TBN next time.
Ford has a maximum OCI of 10K on this engine. A 5.0L putting out 415hp stock is not a "light load" yes the engine is built very well but thats still a good hp/l for a stock car.
Where are all of the thin oil haters on this oil??
The engine doesn't put 415 HP all the time. Only when he floors it and gets the rpm up to 6500. When he's cruising down the highway at 70-75 mph and 1800 rpm, the engine is making about 30 hp. This is why he can go 10k miles between oil changes.
True, but 10K miles is still a short OCI for a modern engine, 15 to 20K miles in normal use is more realistic if you use a good full synthetic 0 or 5/30, although that is assuming you use good fuel or fuel additives and the engine is in good condition.
Originally Posted By: volk06
Originally Posted By: skyship
15K miles should be fine if you use a long life oil filter as the oil is still in good condition. An engine of this size is under very light loads in the US unless you go racing, so it won't chew the oil up too fast unless you get stuck in traffic or short tripping. If you extend the OCI it would be good to know the TBN next time.
Where are all of the thin oil haters on this oil??
The engine doesn't put 415 HP all the time. Only when he floors it and gets the rpm up to 6500. When he's cruising down the highway at 70-75 mph and 1800 rpm, the engine is making about 30 hp. This is why he can go 10k miles between oil changes.
True, but 10K miles is still a short OCI for a modern engine, 15 to 20K miles in normal use is more realistic if you use a good full synthetic 0 or 5/30, although that is assuming you use good fuel or fuel additives and the engine is in good condition.
Originally Posted By: skyship
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
Originally Posted By: volk06
Originally Posted By: skyship
15K miles should be fine if you use a long life oil filter as the oil is still in good condition. An engine of this size is under very light loads in the US unless you go racing, so it won't chew the oil up too fast unless you get stuck in traffic or short tripping. If you extend the OCI it would be good to know the TBN next time.
Ford has a maximum OCI of 10K on this engine. A 5.0L putting out 415hp stock is not a "light load" yes the engine is built very well but thats still a good hp/l for a stock car.
Where are all of the thin oil haters on this oil??
The engine doesn't put 415 HP all the time. Only when he floors it and gets the rpm up to 6500. When he's cruising down the highway at 70-75 mph and 1800 rpm, the engine is making about 30 hp. This is why he can go 10k miles between oil changes.
True, but 10K miles is still a short OCI for a modern engine, 15 to 20K miles in normal use is more realistic if you use a good full synthetic 0 or 5/30, although that is assuming you use good fuel or fuel additives and the engine is in good condition.
Maybe where your from but not here in the US.
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
Originally Posted By: volk06
Originally Posted By: skyship
15K miles should be fine if you use a long life oil filter as the oil is still in good condition. An engine of this size is under very light loads in the US unless you go racing, so it won't chew the oil up too fast unless you get stuck in traffic or short tripping. If you extend the OCI it would be good to know the TBN next time.
Where are all of the thin oil haters on this oil??
The engine doesn't put 415 HP all the time. Only when he floors it and gets the rpm up to 6500. When he's cruising down the highway at 70-75 mph and 1800 rpm, the engine is making about 30 hp. This is why he can go 10k miles between oil changes.
True, but 10K miles is still a short OCI for a modern engine, 15 to 20K miles in normal use is more realistic if you use a good full synthetic 0 or 5/30, although that is assuming you use good fuel or fuel additives and the engine is in good condition.
Maybe where your from but not here in the US.
A few good articles on OCI's from Blackstone:
General article on OCI selection.
Article on extending OCI's.
Last part of 2nd article:
After looking at the oil data from hundreds of thousands of gas and diesel engines I would suggest that (70%+) is a conservative estimate of the waste caused by auto and truck owners by prematurely changing the oil. If you can run your oil longer without compromising the longevity of the engine, why wouldn’t you?
Most of the UOA results in this site are for OCI's that are way too short for some expensive full synthetic. Very few are too long and those that are tend to be from problematic engines or applications.
The thin oil CAFE bean counting game is defintely keeping OCI's shorter than those in the EU for exactly the same engine, but the 5K mentality seems to be resulting in one serious waste of oil and filters.
General article on OCI selection.
Article on extending OCI's.
Last part of 2nd article:
After looking at the oil data from hundreds of thousands of gas and diesel engines I would suggest that (70%+) is a conservative estimate of the waste caused by auto and truck owners by prematurely changing the oil. If you can run your oil longer without compromising the longevity of the engine, why wouldn’t you?
Most of the UOA results in this site are for OCI's that are way too short for some expensive full synthetic. Very few are too long and those that are tend to be from problematic engines or applications.
The thin oil CAFE bean counting game is defintely keeping OCI's shorter than those in the EU for exactly the same engine, but the 5K mentality seems to be resulting in one serious waste of oil and filters.
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dnewton3
Staff member
Nice results, to be sure, Kona.
However, I'd point out that probably any qualified dino could have done that at 10k miles. You're running 2/3 of your miles on the highway; that is easy service. You don't pound this at a track. This car does not see severe service by any means.
Today's engines and lubes are far more capable than folks believe.
Is this engine wearing nicely? Yes.
But so did my wife's 1995 Villager van on a 10k mile OCI, with dino Supertech and a normal Purolator Classic filter ....
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2827445&page=1
Note that I, too, got less than half the wear of "normal" numbers.
Admittedly these are not the same engines. But my point is that most all (not all, but most all) sump loads in a decent engine will see the wear rates drop, even out approaching 15k miles.
Your engine calls for WSS-M2C930-A; there are a lot of dino lubes (Mobil, Pennzoil, Castrol, Valvoline, etc) that meet that spec. And that sump is 8 quarts! That is huge on a "per liter" basis.
Your engine did fine. I don't know what you paid, but presuming a fair "retail" price, your wallet likely took a pounding though.
However, I'd point out that probably any qualified dino could have done that at 10k miles. You're running 2/3 of your miles on the highway; that is easy service. You don't pound this at a track. This car does not see severe service by any means.
Today's engines and lubes are far more capable than folks believe.
Is this engine wearing nicely? Yes.
But so did my wife's 1995 Villager van on a 10k mile OCI, with dino Supertech and a normal Purolator Classic filter ....
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2827445&page=1
Note that I, too, got less than half the wear of "normal" numbers.
Admittedly these are not the same engines. But my point is that most all (not all, but most all) sump loads in a decent engine will see the wear rates drop, even out approaching 15k miles.
Your engine calls for WSS-M2C930-A; there are a lot of dino lubes (Mobil, Pennzoil, Castrol, Valvoline, etc) that meet that spec. And that sump is 8 quarts! That is huge on a "per liter" basis.
Your engine did fine. I don't know what you paid, but presuming a fair "retail" price, your wallet likely took a pounding though.
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I know a lot of fussy car owners in Blighty that use dino or part dino oils for 10K miles in turbo diesels and they get real good results with excellent UOA's and sludge free blocks. Most of them use cheap Castrol GTX or Magnetec 10 or 5/40.
My own Volvo TDI did 160K km with the cheapest Mobil 10/40 bulk oil and 20 to 25K km OCI's before I bought it. My block was clean and is producing half of normal wear figures at present, although I am using more expensive LM and Castrol synthetics with a view to extending the OCI later this year.
If you don't get stuck in traffic a lot or do too much short tripping the conditions on US roads mean an engine has a real easy life in oil terms, so quite why folks keep dumping good oil is tough to comprehend. There might have been a slight shift from the 3K to the 5K camp, but that seems to be the limit for many owners, although at least the OP has nearly made the almost empty 10K camp.
My own Volvo TDI did 160K km with the cheapest Mobil 10/40 bulk oil and 20 to 25K km OCI's before I bought it. My block was clean and is producing half of normal wear figures at present, although I am using more expensive LM and Castrol synthetics with a view to extending the OCI later this year.
If you don't get stuck in traffic a lot or do too much short tripping the conditions on US roads mean an engine has a real easy life in oil terms, so quite why folks keep dumping good oil is tough to comprehend. There might have been a slight shift from the 3K to the 5K camp, but that seems to be the limit for many owners, although at least the OP has nearly made the almost empty 10K camp.
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Patman
Staff member
Nice report! But if it were me, I would have driven another 5 miles just to reach the 10,000 mile point on the oil
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Nice results, to be sure, Kona.
However, I'd point out that probably any qualified dino could have done that at 10k miles. You're running 2/3 of your miles on the highway; that is easy service. You don't pound this at a track. This car does not see severe service by any means.
Today's engines and lubes are far more capable than folks believe.
Is this engine wearing nicely? Yes.
But so did my wife's 1995 Villager van on a 10k mile OCI, with dino Supertech and a normal Purolator Classic filter ....
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2827445&page=1
Note that I, too, got less than half the wear of "normal" numbers.
Admittedly these are not the same engines. But my point is that most all (not all, but most all) sump loads in a decent engine will see the wear rates drop, even out approaching 15k miles.
Your engine calls for WSS-M2C930-A; there are a lot of dino lubes (Mobil, Pennzoil, Castrol, Valvoline, etc) that meet that spec. And that sump is 8 quarts! That is huge on a "per liter" basis.
Your engine did fine. I don't know what you paid, but presuming a fair "retail" price, your wallet likely took a pounding though.
You go on and on about this because you managed to run ONE 10K OCI on Supertech without blowing up your motor. Why don't you put your money where your mouth is and run a vehicle from new on 10K OCI's with Supertech and see how long the motor lasts. That would be much more in keeping with the standard to which you hold anyone else who draws a conclusion regarding anything on this website.
Nice results, to be sure, Kona.
However, I'd point out that probably any qualified dino could have done that at 10k miles. You're running 2/3 of your miles on the highway; that is easy service. You don't pound this at a track. This car does not see severe service by any means.
Today's engines and lubes are far more capable than folks believe.
Is this engine wearing nicely? Yes.
But so did my wife's 1995 Villager van on a 10k mile OCI, with dino Supertech and a normal Purolator Classic filter ....
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2827445&page=1
Note that I, too, got less than half the wear of "normal" numbers.
Admittedly these are not the same engines. But my point is that most all (not all, but most all) sump loads in a decent engine will see the wear rates drop, even out approaching 15k miles.
Your engine calls for WSS-M2C930-A; there are a lot of dino lubes (Mobil, Pennzoil, Castrol, Valvoline, etc) that meet that spec. And that sump is 8 quarts! That is huge on a "per liter" basis.
Your engine did fine. I don't know what you paid, but presuming a fair "retail" price, your wallet likely took a pounding though.
You go on and on about this because you managed to run ONE 10K OCI on Supertech without blowing up your motor. Why don't you put your money where your mouth is and run a vehicle from new on 10K OCI's with Supertech and see how long the motor lasts. That would be much more in keeping with the standard to which you hold anyone else who draws a conclusion regarding anything on this website.
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Nice results, to be sure, Kona.
However, I'd point out that probably any qualified dino could have done that at 10k miles. You're running 2/3 of your miles on the highway; that is easy service. You don't pound this at a track. This car does not see severe service by any means.
Today's engines and lubes are far more capable than folks believe.
Is this engine wearing nicely? Yes.
But so did my wife's 1995 Villager van on a 10k mile OCI, with dino Supertech and a normal Purolator Classic filter ....
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2827445&page=1
Note that I, too, got less than half the wear of "normal" numbers.
Admittedly these are not the same engines. But my point is that most all (not all, but most all) sump loads in a decent engine will see the wear rates drop, even out approaching 15k miles.
Your engine calls for WSS-M2C930-A; there are a lot of dino lubes (Mobil, Pennzoil, Castrol, Valvoline, etc) that meet that spec. And that sump is 8 quarts! That is huge on a "per liter" basis.
Your engine did fine. I don't know what you paid, but presuming a fair "retail" price, your wallet likely took a pounding though.
Almost 10,000 miles on an oil is hardly taking any sort of a "pounding on anyones wallet"
Nice results, to be sure, Kona.
However, I'd point out that probably any qualified dino could have done that at 10k miles. You're running 2/3 of your miles on the highway; that is easy service. You don't pound this at a track. This car does not see severe service by any means.
Today's engines and lubes are far more capable than folks believe.
Is this engine wearing nicely? Yes.
But so did my wife's 1995 Villager van on a 10k mile OCI, with dino Supertech and a normal Purolator Classic filter ....
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2827445&page=1
Note that I, too, got less than half the wear of "normal" numbers.
Admittedly these are not the same engines. But my point is that most all (not all, but most all) sump loads in a decent engine will see the wear rates drop, even out approaching 15k miles.
Your engine calls for WSS-M2C930-A; there are a lot of dino lubes (Mobil, Pennzoil, Castrol, Valvoline, etc) that meet that spec. And that sump is 8 quarts! That is huge on a "per liter" basis.
Your engine did fine. I don't know what you paid, but presuming a fair "retail" price, your wallet likely took a pounding though.
Almost 10,000 miles on an oil is hardly taking any sort of a "pounding on anyones wallet"
dnewton3
Staff member
Originally Posted By: SlipperyPete
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Nice results, to be sure, Kona.
However, I'd point out that probably any qualified dino could have done that at 10k miles. You're running 2/3 of your miles on the highway; that is easy service. You don't pound this at a track. This car does not see severe service by any means.
Today's engines and lubes are far more capable than folks believe.
Is this engine wearing nicely? Yes.
But so did my wife's 1995 Villager van on a 10k mile OCI, with dino Supertech and a normal Purolator Classic filter ....
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2827445&page=1
Note that I, too, got less than half the wear of "normal" numbers.
Admittedly these are not the same engines. But my point is that most all (not all, but most all) sump loads in a decent engine will see the wear rates drop, even out approaching 15k miles.
Your engine calls for WSS-M2C930-A; there are a lot of dino lubes (Mobil, Pennzoil, Castrol, Valvoline, etc) that meet that spec. And that sump is 8 quarts! That is huge on a "per liter" basis.
Your engine did fine. I don't know what you paid, but presuming a fair "retail" price, your wallet likely took a pounding though.
You go on and on about this because you managed to run ONE 10K OCI on Supertech without blowing up your motor. Why don't you put your money where your mouth is and run a vehicle from new on 10K OCI's with Supertech and see how long the motor lasts. That would be much more in keeping with the standard to which you hold anyone else who draws a conclusion regarding anything on this website.
I am doing that right now, as a matter of fact. I'm actually considering not only another 10k mile OCI to back that former one up, but actually stretching it out to 15k miles. So, yes, I'm willing to put my money where my mouth is. Did you read my UOA and the details surrounding it? I clearly stated in it that I was going to try up to 15k miles. Your taunts are unfounded, sir. Here is what I said in that thread:
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
I'm seriously thinking about going to 15k miles on dino oil here. I'm not just out of break down the myths; I'm going to obliterate them out of the water!
My conclusions are based in facts and data. I see clear evidence that 10k miles is doable in this Mustang's OCIs for far less money with a qualified dino. The Ford spec WSS-M2C930-A is met by many dino fluids. They will do a great job up to 10k miles in this Mustang, and probably a lot further than folks realize.
I see the same evidence in my Villager; I practice what I preach.
Why not look at 2010_FX4's UOAs as well? He's running tests of dino versus PP right now. His results echo my statements; there is no tangible benefit to syns in "normal" applications in healthy equipment.
Seems that you don't like the UOA evidence; can't accept facts? Why not check out SAE article 2007-01-4133 by Ford as well?
And, please read my article on UOA normalcy; sticky at the top of this sub-forum. I clearly show proof from thousands of UOAs in macro-analysis, across a broad variety of engines, that wear rates continue to drop out to 15k miles, in healthy engines.
I most certainly put my money where my mouth is; I am doing an intended 15k miles OCI on our Villager and will be going to 15k miles in my Fusion soon. I am also running multiple-year OCIs with UOA in my Dmax truck and my Kubota tractor. I most certainly am holding myself to the same standard I suggest for others.
Your inference that using ST dino fluid will make a motor "blow up" is plain silly; what proof do you have to substantiate that implication?
In this UOA thread (Mustang) the PU did a good job, but that is more likely due to the OCI duration and the quality of the design and manufacture of the engine; it's not luck. There is a LOT of evidence that dino fluids could do as well (my UOA, 2010_FX4 UOAs, SAE studies, my "normalcy" article). Where's your proof that my unconventional thinking will result in assured destruction of the engine (against your statement of "blowing up" and seeing "how long the motor lasts")? Do you have many thousands of UOAs in your database? Have you purchased and read the SAE article? Do you have links to specific studies that show an engine destroyed by a dino fluid, where a syntheics would have conclusively assured it's continued lifecycle?
I stand by my statements with facts and data. I would be willing to review any concrete proof you have to substantiate your statements that a dino will result in blowing up an engine at "normal" OCI durations, or even past that.
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Nice results, to be sure, Kona.
However, I'd point out that probably any qualified dino could have done that at 10k miles. You're running 2/3 of your miles on the highway; that is easy service. You don't pound this at a track. This car does not see severe service by any means.
Today's engines and lubes are far more capable than folks believe.
Is this engine wearing nicely? Yes.
But so did my wife's 1995 Villager van on a 10k mile OCI, with dino Supertech and a normal Purolator Classic filter ....
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2827445&page=1
Note that I, too, got less than half the wear of "normal" numbers.
Admittedly these are not the same engines. But my point is that most all (not all, but most all) sump loads in a decent engine will see the wear rates drop, even out approaching 15k miles.
Your engine calls for WSS-M2C930-A; there are a lot of dino lubes (Mobil, Pennzoil, Castrol, Valvoline, etc) that meet that spec. And that sump is 8 quarts! That is huge on a "per liter" basis.
Your engine did fine. I don't know what you paid, but presuming a fair "retail" price, your wallet likely took a pounding though.
You go on and on about this because you managed to run ONE 10K OCI on Supertech without blowing up your motor. Why don't you put your money where your mouth is and run a vehicle from new on 10K OCI's with Supertech and see how long the motor lasts. That would be much more in keeping with the standard to which you hold anyone else who draws a conclusion regarding anything on this website.
I am doing that right now, as a matter of fact. I'm actually considering not only another 10k mile OCI to back that former one up, but actually stretching it out to 15k miles. So, yes, I'm willing to put my money where my mouth is. Did you read my UOA and the details surrounding it? I clearly stated in it that I was going to try up to 15k miles. Your taunts are unfounded, sir. Here is what I said in that thread:
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
I'm seriously thinking about going to 15k miles on dino oil here. I'm not just out of break down the myths; I'm going to obliterate them out of the water!
My conclusions are based in facts and data. I see clear evidence that 10k miles is doable in this Mustang's OCIs for far less money with a qualified dino. The Ford spec WSS-M2C930-A is met by many dino fluids. They will do a great job up to 10k miles in this Mustang, and probably a lot further than folks realize.
I see the same evidence in my Villager; I practice what I preach.
Why not look at 2010_FX4's UOAs as well? He's running tests of dino versus PP right now. His results echo my statements; there is no tangible benefit to syns in "normal" applications in healthy equipment.
Seems that you don't like the UOA evidence; can't accept facts? Why not check out SAE article 2007-01-4133 by Ford as well?
And, please read my article on UOA normalcy; sticky at the top of this sub-forum. I clearly show proof from thousands of UOAs in macro-analysis, across a broad variety of engines, that wear rates continue to drop out to 15k miles, in healthy engines.
I most certainly put my money where my mouth is; I am doing an intended 15k miles OCI on our Villager and will be going to 15k miles in my Fusion soon. I am also running multiple-year OCIs with UOA in my Dmax truck and my Kubota tractor. I most certainly am holding myself to the same standard I suggest for others.
Your inference that using ST dino fluid will make a motor "blow up" is plain silly; what proof do you have to substantiate that implication?
In this UOA thread (Mustang) the PU did a good job, but that is more likely due to the OCI duration and the quality of the design and manufacture of the engine; it's not luck. There is a LOT of evidence that dino fluids could do as well (my UOA, 2010_FX4 UOAs, SAE studies, my "normalcy" article). Where's your proof that my unconventional thinking will result in assured destruction of the engine (against your statement of "blowing up" and seeing "how long the motor lasts")? Do you have many thousands of UOAs in your database? Have you purchased and read the SAE article? Do you have links to specific studies that show an engine destroyed by a dino fluid, where a syntheics would have conclusively assured it's continued lifecycle?
I stand by my statements with facts and data. I would be willing to review any concrete proof you have to substantiate your statements that a dino will result in blowing up an engine at "normal" OCI durations, or even past that.
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Originally Posted By: dnewton3
I most certainly put my money where my mouth is; I am doing an intended 15k miles OCI on our Villager and will be going to 15k miles in my Fusion soon. I am also running multiple-year OCIs with UOA in my Dmax truck and my Kubota tractor. I most certainly am holding myself to the same standard I suggest for others.
hello Dave,
please inform if you are changing Oil Filter at 8k or 10k mile interval, in this 15k mile stretch attempt ?
And what is the sump size and any top-up oil added in between or not ?
thanks!
I most certainly put my money where my mouth is; I am doing an intended 15k miles OCI on our Villager and will be going to 15k miles in my Fusion soon. I am also running multiple-year OCIs with UOA in my Dmax truck and my Kubota tractor. I most certainly am holding myself to the same standard I suggest for others.
hello Dave,
please inform if you are changing Oil Filter at 8k or 10k mile interval, in this 15k mile stretch attempt ?
And what is the sump size and any top-up oil added in between or not ?
thanks!
Originally Posted By: KonaMustangGT
2011 Ford Mustang GT 5.0L V8 Ti-VCT 32-valve
Pennzoil Ultra 5w20 SN/GF5
Motorcraft oil filter FL500S
Motorcraft air filter FA1897
Code:
MI/HR on Oil 9,995 UNIT / UNIVERSAL
MI/HR on Unit 39,083 LOCATION AVERAGES
Sample Date 01/26/13 AVERAGES
Make Up Oil Added 2 qts
ELEMENTS
ALUMINUM 4 4 6
CHROMIUM 0 0 0
IRON 11 11 21
COPPER 3 3 6
LEAD 0 0 1
TIN 0 0 1
MOLYBDENUM 60 60 63
NICKEL 0 0 1
MANGANESE 3 3 5
SILVER 0 0 0
TITANIUM 2 2 1
POTASSIUM 0 0 3
BORON 89 89 95
SILICON 7 7 13
SODIUM 4 4 59
CALCIUM 2644 2644 1971
MAGNESIUM 12 12 295
PHOSPHORUS 755 755 733
ZINC 870 870 839
BARIUM 0 0 1
PROPERTIES
cSt Viscosity @ 100°C 52.9
SUS Viscosity @ 210°F 8.16
Flashpoint in °F 415
Fuel %
Antifreeze % 0.0
Water % 0.0
Insolubles % 0.2
Blackstones COMMENTS
The new 5.0L V-8 seems to be a nicely wearing engine for Ford and yours is no exception at 39,083 miles. Wear metals are low across the board and look great compared to universal averages. They show typical wear levels for this type of engine after about 4,900 miles on the oil. You ran more than twice that long and still got low wear. Impressive. The viscosity was normal for 5W/20 and low insolubles and silicon show good oil and air filtration. The flashpoint shows no measurable fuel dilution. Keep up the good work.
Back on topic,keep doin what your doing it works!
2011 Ford Mustang GT 5.0L V8 Ti-VCT 32-valve
Pennzoil Ultra 5w20 SN/GF5
Motorcraft oil filter FL500S
Motorcraft air filter FA1897
Code:
MI/HR on Oil 9,995 UNIT / UNIVERSAL
MI/HR on Unit 39,083 LOCATION AVERAGES
Sample Date 01/26/13 AVERAGES
Make Up Oil Added 2 qts
ELEMENTS
ALUMINUM 4 4 6
CHROMIUM 0 0 0
IRON 11 11 21
COPPER 3 3 6
LEAD 0 0 1
TIN 0 0 1
MOLYBDENUM 60 60 63
NICKEL 0 0 1
MANGANESE 3 3 5
SILVER 0 0 0
TITANIUM 2 2 1
POTASSIUM 0 0 3
BORON 89 89 95
SILICON 7 7 13
SODIUM 4 4 59
CALCIUM 2644 2644 1971
MAGNESIUM 12 12 295
PHOSPHORUS 755 755 733
ZINC 870 870 839
BARIUM 0 0 1
PROPERTIES
cSt Viscosity @ 100°C 52.9
SUS Viscosity @ 210°F 8.16
Flashpoint in °F 415
Fuel %
Antifreeze % 0.0
Water % 0.0
Insolubles % 0.2
Blackstones COMMENTS
The new 5.0L V-8 seems to be a nicely wearing engine for Ford and yours is no exception at 39,083 miles. Wear metals are low across the board and look great compared to universal averages. They show typical wear levels for this type of engine after about 4,900 miles on the oil. You ran more than twice that long and still got low wear. Impressive. The viscosity was normal for 5W/20 and low insolubles and silicon show good oil and air filtration. The flashpoint shows no measurable fuel dilution. Keep up the good work.
Back on topic,keep doin what your doing it works!
The thing I can't understand is that if you pay 35$ for a UOA after only 10K miles and it is real good as this one is, then once the warranty has expired, why not extend the OCI and at least get your money back in oil saved. Otherwise you might as well not do UOA and change to a major brand dino on special, unless this is just a hobby as it is for many and it does look good when you sell a car.
Oddly enough if the Fe figures work out well it will probably be better for the engine than the present short OCI.
Oddly enough if the Fe figures work out well it will probably be better for the engine than the present short OCI.
Originally Posted By: skyship
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: dave1251
The thin is not in crowd does not have a leg to stand on in this situation.
Correct. Ford has adequate nannies in place (like neutering the engine when the oil temps get too high) that 5w-20/0w-20 is perfectly safe in this application.
Oh, so now we hear that they detuned it when hot to allow thin oil ?? How do you race such a car ??
This is fact, Ford has oil temperature sensors in place and when the oil reaches a certain pre-set temperature (250 deg IIRC) the PCM will no longer allow full power and it goes into a limp/cool-down mode.
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: dave1251
The thin is not in crowd does not have a leg to stand on in this situation.
Correct. Ford has adequate nannies in place (like neutering the engine when the oil temps get too high) that 5w-20/0w-20 is perfectly safe in this application.
Oh, so now we hear that they detuned it when hot to allow thin oil ?? How do you race such a car ??
This is fact, Ford has oil temperature sensors in place and when the oil reaches a certain pre-set temperature (250 deg IIRC) the PCM will no longer allow full power and it goes into a limp/cool-down mode.
Originally Posted By: Ben99GT
Originally Posted By: skyship
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: dave1251
The thin is not in crowd does not have a leg to stand on in this situation.
Correct. Ford has adequate nannies in place (like neutering the engine when the oil temps get too high) that 5w-20/0w-20 is perfectly safe in this application.
Oh, so now we hear that they detuned it when hot to allow thin oil ?? How do you race such a car ??
This is fact, Ford has oil temperature sensors in place and when the oil reaches a certain pre-set temperature (250 deg IIRC) the PCM will no longer allow full power and it goes into a limp/cool-down mode.
This is true however one of the guys in my crew bought a 2013 mustang last year. It was the first one delivered to a customer in the west. We promptly took it to the track and beat on it. We did 20 passes to break in the engine. Then we went to the small oval we have here in Saskatoon and drove that car to its limit and could NOT get it to go into limp mode. The oil system doesn't have a cooler stock but I can tell you from experience that we drove that car so hard we put a dent in the floor and we couldn't get the oil so hot that it neutered the engine.
So yes those safeguards are in place but it would take some serious ambient temps coupled with the most extreme hard driving imagineable to force it into limp mode.
We ran 20 consecutive laps,with only a few minutes in between to let the engine cool off so as far as I'm concerned we were hot lapping the car,and we couldn't get it to go into limp mode.
Ford engineering got the stock gt right for sure. I don't know what it takes to force it into limp mode but we couldn't do it.
And it had the factory 20 grade in the sump. We changed the oil after that weekend and it was black but we put 4000 really hard kms on it in 4 days. We were in it for 14 hours a day. He also needed new rear tires,which we put dot legal drag slicks.
Surprisingly enough when we cut open the oil filter there was no metal that we could see and the oil didn't smell like fuel. It was a quart low though.
Originally Posted By: skyship
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: dave1251
The thin is not in crowd does not have a leg to stand on in this situation.
Correct. Ford has adequate nannies in place (like neutering the engine when the oil temps get too high) that 5w-20/0w-20 is perfectly safe in this application.
Oh, so now we hear that they detuned it when hot to allow thin oil ?? How do you race such a car ??
This is fact, Ford has oil temperature sensors in place and when the oil reaches a certain pre-set temperature (250 deg IIRC) the PCM will no longer allow full power and it goes into a limp/cool-down mode.
This is true however one of the guys in my crew bought a 2013 mustang last year. It was the first one delivered to a customer in the west. We promptly took it to the track and beat on it. We did 20 passes to break in the engine. Then we went to the small oval we have here in Saskatoon and drove that car to its limit and could NOT get it to go into limp mode. The oil system doesn't have a cooler stock but I can tell you from experience that we drove that car so hard we put a dent in the floor and we couldn't get the oil so hot that it neutered the engine.
So yes those safeguards are in place but it would take some serious ambient temps coupled with the most extreme hard driving imagineable to force it into limp mode.
We ran 20 consecutive laps,with only a few minutes in between to let the engine cool off so as far as I'm concerned we were hot lapping the car,and we couldn't get it to go into limp mode.
Ford engineering got the stock gt right for sure. I don't know what it takes to force it into limp mode but we couldn't do it.
And it had the factory 20 grade in the sump. We changed the oil after that weekend and it was black but we put 4000 really hard kms on it in 4 days. We were in it for 14 hours a day. He also needed new rear tires,which we put dot legal drag slicks.
Surprisingly enough when we cut open the oil filter there was no metal that we could see and the oil didn't smell like fuel. It was a quart low though.
Originally Posted By: Clevy
This is true however one of the guys in my crew bought a 2013 mustang last year. It was the first one delivered to a customer in the west. We promptly took it to the track and beat on it. We did 20 passes to break in the engine. Then we went to the small oval we have here in Saskatoon and drove that car to its limit and could NOT get it to go into limp mode. The oil system doesn't have a cooler stock but I can tell you from experience that we drove that car so hard we put a dent in the floor and we couldn't get the oil so hot that it neutered the engine.
So yes those safeguards are in place but it would take some serious ambient temps coupled with the most extreme hard driving imagineable to force it into limp mode.
We ran 20 consecutive laps,with only a few minutes in between to let the engine cool off so as far as I'm concerned we were hot lapping the car,and we couldn't get it to go into limp mode.
Ford engineering got the stock gt right for sure. I don't know what it takes to force it into limp mode but we couldn't do it.
And it had the factory 20 grade in the sump. We changed the oil after that weekend and it was black but we put 4000 really hard kms on it in 4 days. We were in it for 14 hours a day. He also needed new rear tires,which we put dot legal drag slicks.
Surprisingly enough when we cut open the oil filter there was no metal that we could see and the oil didn't smell like fuel. It was a quart low though.
It's been a while since I've looked at it, but there are OT tables in the Copperhead PCM and I believe they become progressively more aggressive as oil temperature climbs. We logged some quickly climbing oil temps with a Vortech 2012 5.0 during some 7500 rpm dyno pulls, IIRC.
This is true however one of the guys in my crew bought a 2013 mustang last year. It was the first one delivered to a customer in the west. We promptly took it to the track and beat on it. We did 20 passes to break in the engine. Then we went to the small oval we have here in Saskatoon and drove that car to its limit and could NOT get it to go into limp mode. The oil system doesn't have a cooler stock but I can tell you from experience that we drove that car so hard we put a dent in the floor and we couldn't get the oil so hot that it neutered the engine.
So yes those safeguards are in place but it would take some serious ambient temps coupled with the most extreme hard driving imagineable to force it into limp mode.
We ran 20 consecutive laps,with only a few minutes in between to let the engine cool off so as far as I'm concerned we were hot lapping the car,and we couldn't get it to go into limp mode.
Ford engineering got the stock gt right for sure. I don't know what it takes to force it into limp mode but we couldn't do it.
And it had the factory 20 grade in the sump. We changed the oil after that weekend and it was black but we put 4000 really hard kms on it in 4 days. We were in it for 14 hours a day. He also needed new rear tires,which we put dot legal drag slicks.
Surprisingly enough when we cut open the oil filter there was no metal that we could see and the oil didn't smell like fuel. It was a quart low though.
It's been a while since I've looked at it, but there are OT tables in the Copperhead PCM and I believe they become progressively more aggressive as oil temperature climbs. We logged some quickly climbing oil temps with a Vortech 2012 5.0 during some 7500 rpm dyno pulls, IIRC.
Originally Posted By: Ben99GT
Originally Posted By: Clevy
This is true however one of the guys in my crew bought a 2013 mustang last year. It was the first one delivered to a customer in the west. We promptly took it to the track and beat on it. We did 20 passes to break in the engine. Then we went to the small oval we have here in Saskatoon and drove that car to its limit and could NOT get it to go into limp mode. The oil system doesn't have a cooler stock but I can tell you from experience that we drove that car so hard we put a dent in the floor and we couldn't get the oil so hot that it neutered the engine.
So yes those safeguards are in place but it would take some serious ambient temps coupled with the most extreme hard driving imagineable to force it into limp mode.
We ran 20 consecutive laps,with only a few minutes in between to let the engine cool off so as far as I'm concerned we were hot lapping the car,and we couldn't get it to go into limp mode.
Ford engineering got the stock gt right for sure. I don't know what it takes to force it into limp mode but we couldn't do it.
And it had the factory 20 grade in the sump. We changed the oil after that weekend and it was black but we put 4000 really hard kms on it in 4 days. We were in it for 14 hours a day. He also needed new rear tires,which we put dot legal drag slicks.
Surprisingly enough when we cut open the oil filter there was no metal that we could see and the oil didn't smell like fuel. It was a quart low though.
It's been a while since I've looked at it, but there are OT tables in the Copperhead PCM and I believe they become progressively more aggressive as oil temperature climbs. We logged some quickly climbing oil temps with a Vortech 2012 5.0 during some 7500 rpm dyno pulls, IIRC.
I don't remember if the vortech unit was a sealed and lubed for life or is it fed oil from the sump.
I can certainly believe that on a dyno,running some decent boost the oil temps could climb very quickly. We were outside in the open air and his car was stock,basically right off the trailer and to the drag strip b
How do the new 5.0s like the snails. I prefer the twin screw type simply because I'm hooked on torque but I would love to feel a snail pulling one of those cars around.
Awesome!
Originally Posted By: Clevy
This is true however one of the guys in my crew bought a 2013 mustang last year. It was the first one delivered to a customer in the west. We promptly took it to the track and beat on it. We did 20 passes to break in the engine. Then we went to the small oval we have here in Saskatoon and drove that car to its limit and could NOT get it to go into limp mode. The oil system doesn't have a cooler stock but I can tell you from experience that we drove that car so hard we put a dent in the floor and we couldn't get the oil so hot that it neutered the engine.
So yes those safeguards are in place but it would take some serious ambient temps coupled with the most extreme hard driving imagineable to force it into limp mode.
We ran 20 consecutive laps,with only a few minutes in between to let the engine cool off so as far as I'm concerned we were hot lapping the car,and we couldn't get it to go into limp mode.
Ford engineering got the stock gt right for sure. I don't know what it takes to force it into limp mode but we couldn't do it.
And it had the factory 20 grade in the sump. We changed the oil after that weekend and it was black but we put 4000 really hard kms on it in 4 days. We were in it for 14 hours a day. He also needed new rear tires,which we put dot legal drag slicks.
Surprisingly enough when we cut open the oil filter there was no metal that we could see and the oil didn't smell like fuel. It was a quart low though.
It's been a while since I've looked at it, but there are OT tables in the Copperhead PCM and I believe they become progressively more aggressive as oil temperature climbs. We logged some quickly climbing oil temps with a Vortech 2012 5.0 during some 7500 rpm dyno pulls, IIRC.
I don't remember if the vortech unit was a sealed and lubed for life or is it fed oil from the sump.
I can certainly believe that on a dyno,running some decent boost the oil temps could climb very quickly. We were outside in the open air and his car was stock,basically right off the trailer and to the drag strip b
How do the new 5.0s like the snails. I prefer the twin screw type simply because I'm hooked on torque but I would love to feel a snail pulling one of those cars around.
Awesome!
- Status
