AMSOIL 0W-30 Signature Series 1 year 13,000 miles

[Tobygot]

Hi, here's the results from my 2008 Silverado 4.8 after 1 year and 13,000 miles of Severe Use. I drive many 1 to 2 mile drives with 1 or 2 8 to 10 miles drives daily and I always have about 1,000 lbs loaded in the bed. Most of my driving is 25 to 35 mph.

Should I change my oil more often because of the base number?, or should I change my filter in the middle of the year (it's the 15k filter from AMSOIL)?

Thanks

Comments Base Number is SIGNIFICANTLY LOW. Bearing metal is at a MODERATE LEVEL; Nickel is at a MODERATE LEVEL; Possible valve
train (valves, stems, guides etc.) metal; Abrasives (silicon/dirt) are at a MINOR LEVEL; Infrared results indicate beginning lube
oxidation; Flagged additive levels are lower than expected for the lubricant that is identified. (This does not imply that the
lubricant does not meet proper API, SAE or ISO classifications.); Replace oil filter and top off system with fresh make-up oil if
not done when oil sample was taken. Re-sample in 3,500 miles or 65 hours.


Nickel 3 -Abnormal

Lead 35 -Abnormal

Molybdenum 78 -Abnormal

Boron 35 -Abnormal

Viscosity at 100 degrees 13.1 -Abnormal

Base Number 2.38 -Critical

 

[HTSS_TR]

Your driving condition, many 1-2 miles trips, is very severe therefore you should use conventional oil and change more often, no more than 3k miles OCI.

 

[Turk]

Moly is normal & good.

Where are the Iron & Copper ppm amounts?

 

[Tobygot]

Iron was at 25 and copper is 80. I don't know how to copy and paste the entire report so I just showed to numbers that were abnormal or critical.

I want to continue using AMSOIL. If the Base Number is critical should I start changing my oil every 6 months?

 

[TTK]

How is a base number of 2.38 critical?

 

[Tobygot]

According to Oil Analyizers Inc the base number of 2.38 was critcal, yet they suggested that I change the oil filter and keep running it.

 

[Falken]

Yes short tripping kills oil. I'd stick to MAX 5000 miles, better off with 3,000.

I am amazed that your oil looks this good after 13,000 miles of short tripping!

For short tripping and hauling at the same time go for any GRIII syn and change it out more often.

Or get a PC card and stick to Amsoil and be a bit more realistic and keep it to 8000 miles and resample from there.

 

[jimbrewer]

Listen to the UOA. Its telling you to change more often. So change more often.

I think the idea of changing every 3K with conventional is a good one. You could probably go to 5K, but you might want to run a test to make sure.

Not a slam at Amsoil, but its not like you are married to the company. If the UOA says in effect to change more often with cheaper oil, that's what you should do.

 

[RTexasF]

That TBN is far from critical. Maybe I'm brainwashed by Blackstone but that would be the least of my worries. Seeing ALL the numbers would be nice.

 

[vinu_neuro]

Can you please post the full report. If not, could you please post the TAN (Acid Number), Oxidation and Nitration values.

 

[Tobygot]

They didn't give a reading for the acid level.

Oxidation was at 65, Nitration was at 21.

 

[Donald]

I doubt if changing the filter more often would help. IMHO, I would get a top quality synthetic oil like PU at Walmart and change it between 8K and 10K. Your use is severe or severe+.

Amsoil is excellent oil, but so are others that are cheaper and easier to get. I would not go for Amsoil and try to get your money's worth by going 13K miles.

I think your oil was close to being used up. Between a marginal TBN and some higher than normal wear metals, it was due.

What was the silicon level? Given that nickel was abnormal, dirt is moving past the valves and value seats.

(Now if you are talking ATF or gear oil, then I think Amsoil is worth the extra $$).

 

[Tobygot]

Silicon was at 22

 

[REDDOG]

OP,

Can you please post all the data in one frame, at the same time? I think it would be helpful to see everything.

What is your air filter history?

Thanks,

 

[Tobygot]

Ok, sorry I didn't post everything from the start.

I have an AMSOIL air filter with about 25,000 miles on it. Last year (13,000 miles ago) I blew it out lightly with compressed air.

The test said my dirt level was low. I live in a desert town with dirt constantly blowing around in the air. i'd say the air filter is doing a great job.




Viscosity Grade: SAE 0W30
Comments Base Number is SIGNIFICANTLY LOW. Bearing metal is at a MODERATE LEVEL; Nickel is at a MODERATE LEVEL; Possible valve
train (valves, stems, guides etc.) metal; Abrasives (silicon/dirt) are at a MINOR LEVEL; Infrared results indicate beginning lube
oxidation; Flagged additive levels are lower than expected for the lubricant that is identified. (This does not imply that the
lubricant does not meet proper API, SAE or ISO classifications.); Replace oil filter and top off system with fresh make-up oil if
not done when oil sample was taken. Re-sample in 3,500 miles or 65 hours.
Wear Metals (ppm)
Contaminant
Metals (ppm) Multi-Source Metals (ppm) Additive Metals (ppm)

Iron 25
Chromium 1
Nickel 3
Aluminum 3
Copper 80
Lead 35
Tin 1
Cadmium 0
Silver 0
Vanadium 0
Silicon 22
Sodium 15
Potassium 1
Titanium 0
Molybdenum 78
Antimony 0
Manganese 7
Lithium 0
Boron 35
Magnesium 14
Calcium 2918
Barium 0
Phosphorous 633
Zinc 636

Viscosity at 100 - 13.1
base number 2.38
oxidation 65
nitration 21

 

[FZ1]

I would change the oil and oil filter 2x per year. Change it Spring and Fall.

 

[skyship]

I would cut the next OCI to 10K miles as it's good not to go much below one third of the VOA TBN, the Lead does not look good, but without a trend it's hard to say.

 

[skyship]

Originally Posted By: Tobygot
Iron was at 25 and copper is 80. I don't know how to copy and paste the entire report so I just showed to numbers that were abnormal or critical.

I want to continue using AMSOIL. If the Base Number is critical should I start changing my oil every 6 months?


OK, so bearing in mind that your use seems to be severe duty to some extent, if the lead figure stays high then I would do an oil only change at 7.5K miles and then oil & filter at 15K miles which is the rating of the filter you are using.
In terms of the expensive oil you are using, if the figures don't improve and you cut the oil change interval to 7.5K miles then I would take a good look at which types of oils are approved for this engine, as a more conventional 5/30 or even an HDEO like Delvac or Rimula might produce similar or even better figures and those oils have more Zinc, as your Zinc figure seems a bit low for a non DPF engine.
If you don't leave Arizona much then a 10/30 might be a cheaper option. You did not quote the total miles or oil consumption, but if you change to a 5/30 then another option to look at is using a major brand HM oil.

 

[gonefishing]

How many miles are on the vehicle? I see that the viscosity is 13.1 when Amsoil list 10.5 new. Looks looks like it might be thickening?

If you want to stick with Amsoil maybe go with their 5W-30 OE formula and shorter intervals.

 

[skyship]

Originally Posted By: TTK
How is a base number of 2.38 critical?


There are 3 schools of thought on minimum TBN because it's a bit of a guessing game without knowing the TAN.
Cummins and the big diesel folks say one half of VOA min, some oil labs like Polaris say one third of the VOA figures for normal cars (This is around 3 for a typical oil) and Blackstones go out on a limb and say one. I like clean blocks so I'm in the one third camp, but I prefer safe guesses.