AFAIK, no pan. There's a drain bolt. It has that silly 'yota type weep hole fill gauge. No dipstick. No real filter, it's a rock screen that's only accessible by pulling trans and splitting in half.

Well there ya go. Do the cooling-line flush as best you can and put in the filter. Drive it for one tank of gas and then prep two samples for analysis. One from the bottle and one from the pan.

If you are going to do analysis you might want to get a Fumoto drain valve for the tranny as it'll make it much easier & cleaner. While you're at it get one for the engine.

You want to get analysis for viscosity, TAN (or TBN) and particle count. After a year (how much do you drive in a year?) do another analysis and the picture will start to come together. This will allow you to get the best use of the D4 and will also keep you informed if there's anything unusual.

It has the aero belly pan, so that's why I say that AFAIK. It's got holes for oil filter and a removable door for engine oil pan bolt. I've got a fumoto on the engine oil pan, makes it whole lot easier. About 18K miles/yr.

I'm liking TallPaul's idea best so far...

It pains me to go past 30K on trans fluid. I'm sure the trans wouldn't care that much, but in my mind, that's the cutoff for automatics. Mine has 133K and shifts beautifully despite a fair amount of abuse including towing, tire roastings, suddenly gaining traction (probably worse for the diff), and countless 5000 RPM+ shifts.

As good as I am about changing fluid before it gets to 30K miles, the filter is original, and the pan has never been off. I was going to have the filter changed, but the dealer insisted it was not necessary. I think they didn't want to pop the pan off on a trans that isn't leaking, and I didn't want to do it in my driveway, so I guess I can't blame them for avoiding that one. This truck and my old Explorer have both been happy with Mercon V flushes and no other trans maintenance. No trans repairs ever in either vehicle. I sold the Explorer at over 158K miles and it still shifted perfectly.

If it were mine, used hard, and I had the materials on hand, I would do it as soon as it's convenient.

A drain plug makes it so easy there's no reason not to at least drain and fill, even if you don't install the filter at the same time. I changed to Mobil 1 in my easily driven Silverado around 36,000, and the original oil was sparkly. In my Vibe (bought used), it looked like motor oil with glitter mixed in at 28,000. If the pans didn't have drain plugs, both would have been a lot worse by the time I got around to dropping the pans by the old ATF bath method.

You have to disconnect or cut cooler lines to install the Magnefine, which is half the work of the flush anyway. You might check the total capacity vs. drain capacity, though. If a drain gets out most of the fluid, you could save the mess of a flush and just do a couple drains together followed by a regular change interval.

First change at 25K then every 40K

I'd flush it out at 30,000 miles, and run longer intervals later on. The OEM fluid I find in Hyundai cars becomes dirty very quickly.

Looks like I'm gonna do 30K; probably do a cooler line flush.

This.