Recent Topics
Oriellys MGL51372 cut open
by DSparks
11/24/14 08:46 AM
many ACEA a5/b5 and a3/b4 only api SL
by shDK
11/24/14 06:23 AM
New Plugs are Powdery Black. w/PIC. Diagnosis?
by Turk
11/24/14 05:14 AM
Looking for new oil/oil filter combo..
by radtech91
11/23/14 11:13 PM
Best atf for volvo 4t65ev/gt
by pjc360
11/23/14 10:43 PM
A New Cert mark for ILSAC GF-6B?
by wemay
11/23/14 10:24 PM
APPLES
by JHZR2
11/23/14 09:42 PM
where is the best deal on Dexron VI ?
by LScowboy
11/23/14 09:33 PM
Engines designed around oil?
by Throt
11/23/14 09:30 PM
Battery sprung a leak!
by JHZR2
11/23/14 09:30 PM
DVR for TV
by Jimkobb
11/23/14 09:10 PM
Newbie question on power bleeders for brake
by volodymyr
11/23/14 06:54 PM
Newest Members
kinder, SamBruin7, splatt, Lars65inc, dothedrew1202
51984 Registered Users
Who's Online
95 registered (babyivan, bepperb, Bgallagher, 4wheeldog, ARCOgraphite, 7 invisible), 1478 Guests and 146 Spiders online.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Stats
51984 Members
66 Forums
222543 Topics
3522461 Posts

Max Online: 2862 @ 07/07/14 03:10 PM
Donate to BITOG
Page 2 of 2 < 1 2
Topic Options
#2828825 - 12/09/12 01:15 AM Re: If it were yours, when would you change the ATF? [Re: martinq]
LineArrayNut Offline


Registered: 10/15/11
Posts: 434
Loc: East TN
Originally Posted By: martinq
Is there a pan that can be pulled? If so, you might be able to unbolt (or loosen) the valve-body from underneath and get 80-90% of the old oil out. Also pull the cooling lines and drain those too.

Then do the cooling-line flush. You might be able to see the difference from old-to-new fluid as it pumps out.

Otherwise, I'd just do a cooling-line flush and do yearly fluid analysis w particle count if possible. You need to get a baseline set and after a three or four analysis you'll have your trend going so you can setup your next flush.


AFAIK, no pan. There's a drain bolt. It has that silly 'yota type weep hole fill gauge. No dipstick. No real filter, it's a rock screen that's only accessible by pulling trans and splitting in half.
_________________________
'11 Sonata SE 2.0T 2RT6 RL0W30 M1MX4T,0W40 LGBT Microgreen
'03 Honda SuperHawk VTR1000 M115W50 ST
'94 Jeep GC 5.2L GET5W30 Kreen XG
'84 S10 V8 M1HM M1

Top
#2829186 - 12/09/12 12:07 PM Re: If it were yours, when would you change the ATF? [Re: LineArrayNut]
martinq Offline


Registered: 07/22/05
Posts: 1023
Loc: ON, Canada
Originally Posted By: LineArrayNut
AFAIK, no pan. There's a drain bolt. It has that silly 'yota type weep hole fill gauge. No dipstick. No real filter, it's a rock screen that's only accessible by pulling trans and splitting in half.

Well there ya go. Do the cooling-line flush as best you can and put in the filter. Drive it for one tank of gas and then prep two samples for analysis. One from the bottle and one from the pan.

If you are going to do analysis you might want to get a Fumoto drain valve for the tranny as it'll make it much easier & cleaner. While you're at it get one for the engine.

You want to get analysis for viscosity, TAN (or TBN) and particle count. After a year (how much do you drive in a year?) do another analysis and the picture will start to come together. This will allow you to get the best use of the D4 and will also keep you informed if there's anything unusual.

Top
#2829225 - 12/09/12 12:56 PM Re: If it were yours, when would you change the ATF? [Re: martinq]
LineArrayNut Offline


Registered: 10/15/11
Posts: 434
Loc: East TN
It has the aero belly pan, so that's why I say that AFAIK. It's got holes for oil filter and a removable door for engine oil pan bolt. I've got a fumoto on the engine oil pan, makes it whole lot easier. About 18K miles/yr.

I'm liking TallPaul's idea best so far...

Originally Posted By: TallPaul
I'm for a complete flush to get a total fill of the Redline D4 ATF. I would think if you do that every 30,000 miles you are fine.


Edited by LineArrayNut (12/09/12 12:59 PM)
_________________________
'11 Sonata SE 2.0T 2RT6 RL0W30 M1MX4T,0W40 LGBT Microgreen
'03 Honda SuperHawk VTR1000 M115W50 ST
'94 Jeep GC 5.2L GET5W30 Kreen XG
'84 S10 V8 M1HM M1

Top
#2829835 - 12/10/12 02:38 AM Re: If it were yours, when would you change the ATF? [Re: LineArrayNut]
01rangerxl Offline


Registered: 04/08/06
Posts: 7550
Loc: Birmingham, AL
It pains me to go past 30K on trans fluid. I'm sure the trans wouldn't care that much, but in my mind, that's the cutoff for automatics. Mine has 133K and shifts beautifully despite a fair amount of abuse including towing, tire roastings, suddenly gaining traction (probably worse for the diff), and countless 5000 RPM+ shifts.

As good as I am about changing fluid before it gets to 30K miles, the filter is original, and the pan has never been off. I was going to have the filter changed, but the dealer insisted it was not necessary. I think they didn't want to pop the pan off on a trans that isn't leaking, and I didn't want to do it in my driveway, so I guess I can't blame them for avoiding that one. This truck and my old Explorer have both been happy with Mercon V flushes and no other trans maintenance. No trans repairs ever in either vehicle. I sold the Explorer at over 158K miles and it still shifted perfectly.
_________________________
2002 Ford Ranger XLT
3.0 V6 / 5-Speed Automatic / 2WD
160K miles

Top
#2830032 - 12/10/12 09:24 AM Re: If it were yours, when would you change the ATF? [Re: LineArrayNut]
Rhymingmechanic Offline


Registered: 08/13/04
Posts: 815
Loc: VA
If it were mine, used hard, and I had the materials on hand, I would do it as soon as it's convenient.

A drain plug makes it so easy there's no reason not to at least drain and fill, even if you don't install the filter at the same time. I changed to Mobil 1 in my easily driven Silverado around 36,000, and the original oil was sparkly. In my Vibe (bought used), it looked like motor oil with glitter mixed in at 28,000. If the pans didn't have drain plugs, both would have been a lot worse by the time I got around to dropping the pans by the old ATF bath method.

You have to disconnect or cut cooler lines to install the Magnefine, which is half the work of the flush anyway. You might check the total capacity vs. drain capacity, though. If a drain gets out most of the fluid, you could save the mess of a flush and just do a couple drains together followed by a regular change interval.

Top
#2830108 - 12/10/12 11:03 AM Re: If it were yours, when would you change the ATF? [Re: LineArrayNut]
Eddie Offline


Registered: 12/07/03
Posts: 6806
Loc: Florida, Cape Coral
First change at 25K then every 40K
_________________________
CX5 Touring 2.5L :-)

Top
#2831726 - 12/11/12 05:43 PM Re: If it were yours, when would you change the ATF? [Re: LineArrayNut]
artificialist Offline


Registered: 09/23/07
Posts: 6935
Loc: Florida
I'd flush it out at 30,000 miles, and run longer intervals later on. The OEM fluid I find in Hyundai cars becomes dirty very quickly.
_________________________
2010 Lancer Ralliart Sportback

Top
#2847028 - 12/25/12 03:54 AM Re: If it were yours, when would you change the ATF? [Re: LineArrayNut]
LineArrayNut Offline


Registered: 10/15/11
Posts: 434
Loc: East TN
Looks like I'm gonna do 30K; probably do a cooler line flush.
_________________________
'11 Sonata SE 2.0T 2RT6 RL0W30 M1MX4T,0W40 LGBT Microgreen
'03 Honda SuperHawk VTR1000 M115W50 ST
'94 Jeep GC 5.2L GET5W30 Kreen XG
'84 S10 V8 M1HM M1

Top
#2868948 - 01/13/13 10:32 AM Re: If it were yours, when would you change the ATF? [Re: Bandito440]
djkurious Offline


Registered: 05/06/12
Posts: 8
Loc: TN
Originally Posted By: Bandito440
Full flush at 30k to get the break-in metals out. Drain & fills every 15k thereafter.


This.

Top
Page 2 of 2 < 1 2