RP 10w30, 3501 miles, 08 Dodge Charger 3.5l
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It would be good if you gave us some more info on how this vehicle is used and in what environment, as the top end is showing too much Aluminium and Copper. The Chomium is good, so this is not ring and piston wear.
My guess without even knowing the engine (The Copper might be from turbo bearings) is that you should look into using an 0/30 fully synthetic or an 0/40 if recommended by Castrol, Liquid Moly or Mobil with a top quality oil filter. If this is cold start wear the 0W will help and if it is hot running the 40 is better.
This engine is in effect still breaking in, so I would check with the dealer about which oil type to use, because it could be that the oil should have higher levels of Moly or Zinc anti wear additives until fully broken in. Without knowing the trend it is hard to see what is happening, because there might not be much wrong if the figures are improving.
My guess without even knowing the engine (The Copper might be from turbo bearings) is that you should look into using an 0/30 fully synthetic or an 0/40 if recommended by Castrol, Liquid Moly or Mobil with a top quality oil filter. If this is cold start wear the 0W will help and if it is hot running the 40 is better.
This engine is in effect still breaking in, so I would check with the dealer about which oil type to use, because it could be that the oil should have higher levels of Moly or Zinc anti wear additives until fully broken in. Without knowing the trend it is hard to see what is happening, because there might not be much wrong if the figures are improving.
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Well yes , a 5w-30 or a 5w-40 would be a good suggestion , are you in northern Oregon , which would help on cold starts as stated by starship .
He switched to 10w-30 , herer s the link : http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2785038#Post2785038
No problem my friend .
Originally Posted By: xkm121
I can only use 10W30 if I want to keep my 7 year powertrain warranty.
Does your power train warranty not list 5/30 as that might help a bit, but 0/30 would be better. The reason they say 10/30 is that it lasts longer, but you are changing oil well before the required OCI so oil life is not a factor.
Oddly enough in US law you can use an oil recommended for the engine by the oil company and not the more expensive fully approved oil, because to reject a claim on the basis of incorrect oil use they do have top prove it was caused by the oil, which would be near impossible. That legal situation changed in US case law only a few years ago after a test case was lost by the car manufacturer.
I looked up this engine in the Liqui Moly site and it lists Longtime High Tech 5/30 and the Germans are almost never wrong as they made the first synthetic oils, BUT the Castrol site list only 10/30 oils and it is very unusual to see a difference between the two best engine oil companies.
I can only use 10W30 if I want to keep my 7 year powertrain warranty.
Does your power train warranty not list 5/30 as that might help a bit, but 0/30 would be better. The reason they say 10/30 is that it lasts longer, but you are changing oil well before the required OCI so oil life is not a factor.
Oddly enough in US law you can use an oil recommended for the engine by the oil company and not the more expensive fully approved oil, because to reject a claim on the basis of incorrect oil use they do have top prove it was caused by the oil, which would be near impossible. That legal situation changed in US case law only a few years ago after a test case was lost by the car manufacturer.
I looked up this engine in the Liqui Moly site and it lists Longtime High Tech 5/30 and the Germans are almost never wrong as they made the first synthetic oils, BUT the Castrol site list only 10/30 oils and it is very unusual to see a difference between the two best engine oil companies.
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