CATERHAM BLEND | 65%/35% | 8587KM(5336m) | G6 3.5L

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Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Originally Posted By: Trav
The 0w30 seems to have done just as well out of the bottle.
The lead could only be from one engine part and we all know what that is.

The question is what happened? This blend of oils didn't cause it i'm sure as its not much different.
According to the 5% OLM and despite the lower Km the engine ran under more severe conditions on the 0w30 and produced a lot less lead.

I am no expert but it looks like some sort of particle took a swipe at the bearings rather than something wrong with the mix.
I would look for an air leak in the intake, poorly seated air filter (or a mouse ate through it), poor oil cap seal or a leak in the crankcase air intake system (PVC elbows on the 3400 which this engine was based on are notorious) before some real bearing damage occurs.
That much of an increase is way beyond statistical noise IMO.

The last thing you want to see next time is high lead with elevated copper levels.


Cut open the oil filter from this sample! Inspect the media.


Also, was there any visible metallic debris on the bottom of your used oil drain pan?
 
I will be cutting the filter open as well, have three down in the basement waiting. Nothing unusual in the drain pan or on the end of the drain plug.
 
Si is high for the miles - check air filter/plumbing for leaks. I agree it was a particle streak from dirt that got through.
 
Air filter is intact. Also no indication of any leak on the filter end of the intake tube. I have not pulled off the engine side yet. There is a hiss at the vacuum tube of the PVC system. Now I assume you will hear some hiss at the elbows just from the air movement inside but a shot of brake cleaner where the elbow enters the manifold produced a slight rise in idle. Pressure on this elbow would greatly increase the sound. I pulled the tube and sure enough one of the sealing rings has let go. I wrapped it in tape and re-installed and it seems to have sealed but as I said there is still a hiss there.

What about using RTV where the tube goes into the elbow? Not sure what if anything can be done with the elbow that goes in the manifold. RockAuto doesn't seem to have a replacement so I'll have to check with the dealer.
 
Got a chance to get back under the hood. Pulled the intake tube right out and no indication that it is leaking anywhere. There is a sign of oil from the PCV vent tube, where it enters the intake tube before the throttle body and very dark past the throttle body where the PCV vacuum tube enters the manifold. I am guessing this is where my oil has been going. With no replaceable PCV valve, I'm not sure what options there are to correct this.
 
Originally Posted By: Pablo
If lead (Pb) spiked like that with Amsoil people would come unglued.


If they were to become "unglued" with Amzoil, then they would have a STROKE if this report was about Royal Purple!
 
Originally Posted By: gfh77665
Originally Posted By: Pablo
If lead (Pb) spiked like that with Amsoil people would come unglued.


If they were to become "unglued" with Amzoil, then they would have a STROKE if this report was about Royal Purple!


Agree.
 
This is a great post in my opinion, gives people the courage to use their odd oil up in a mix to clear away partially used bottles of stuff.

I have 2.3 Litres of Pennzoil Ultra SM that my car consumes oil with that was laying around and I just might add 1.3 Litres of either QSUD or Acura 0W20 SM to get rid of it.

After this though, I know what my car likes and plan on having a stash with oils I enjoy using.
 
Originally Posted By: cp3
There is a hiss at the vacuum tube of the PVC system. Now I assume you will hear some hiss at the elbows just from the air movement inside but a shot of brake cleaner where the elbow enters the manifold produced a slight rise in idle.


I don't know if your '06 3.5L has the exact same PCV lines as our 04 Maxx, but a couple of years ago, I noticed that the PCV lines weren't very tight. I ended up swapping the elbows of the PCV vavle and the 90* at the intake and they're MUCH tighter.
 
cp3, nice report.
As you mentioned you could extend the OCI considerably since the blend is a long drain oil. The GM OLM is based on dino oil. I'd go 12,000 kms next time.

Hopefully the Pb spike is a one off thing. The fact that you've noticed nothing out of the ordinary in the drained oil or on the drain plug is encouraging. Do cut open the oil filter just the same.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
It's also worth noting that this blend has shown virtually no oil shear from it's calculated virgin value.


I agree. I thought that was pretty impressive. You could blend this pretty light and not have to worry about it getting too thin.
 
Originally Posted By: deven
People think that making their "own" blends is better because they are "smarter" than the company themselves.


I agree.

These companies spends a lot of time and energy into making sure their oils are perfectly formulated. They have teams of chemical engineers, petroleum engineers, and automotive engineers with millions of dollars in research budgets; they have done countless UOAs in hundreds of controlled tests; they ran a car a million miles just to observe long term wear patterns.

What were your expectations for this mix?? Is your car having trouble starting in low temperatures or were you hoping to decrease wear numbers??
 
Well, as I posted above, it was just curiosity, fun, whatever you want to call it. Despite what you and deven seem to believe, with out knowing me I might add, I do not feel that I am smarter than either manufacturer. So, on to your questions....

My expectations? My expectations were to provide a high VI, light 0w30 not otherwise available OTC. For it to provide adequate lubrication for my engine. To get information pertaining to my doubt that a small drop in viscosity would provide noticeable fuel mileage benifits. And to have analysis results to post here for information and discusion.

Trouble starting the car in low temperatures? No and when I have with other vehicles it has been battery or starter/solenoid related. I don't ever recall a starting problem that I would attribute to oil and don't expect to anytime soon.

Decrease wear numbers? Well, thankfully no. If that had been a goal it would have failed miserably with this report! As I said above, I was more than happy with the Petro-Canada 0w30 and it's results. Enough that if I go back to an OTC oil that will very likely be it, or possibly another PC product.
 
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals

"Can different synthetic motor oils be mixed together?
Mobil 1 is fully compatible with conventional motor oils, semi-synthetic motor oils and other synthetic motor oils, should it be necessary to mix them. However, it is important to note that the superior performance of Mobil 1 will be reduced by diluting it in any way."

Translation: Yeah its fine, but our stuff is better than anything your mixing it with. Of course they would say that...


I understand why the OP is using TGMO in anything called the "Caterham Blend", but I kind of agree with staying within brand. I've been seriously considering adding some M1 0W-40 to my MS3 which is notorious for beating up oils but if I do, I'll start with a base of M1 5W-30 or 0W-30 with the goal of simply beefing it up a bit.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: deven
One of the reasons why I don't visit this site as often. People think that making their "own" blends is better because they are "smarter" than the company themselves.


+1
 
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