2011 Kawasaki Concours 14 Rotella T6
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Looks fine. Did you change the oil at the time of sampling? If so, why such a short OCI? I'd go much longer on this.
It seemed like the shifting started to get a little notchy. So yes I changed the oil and went with Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10w40 this time. I'm going to go the same mileage on it and compare the UOA to see the difference and see if it shifts better. If not much diff, then might go back with the T6. Has anyone tried the Texas Tea 10w40 synthetic oil?
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Results on left, averages (should be) on right.
Code:
Shell Totella T6 5w-40 1,042mi.
Aluminum 9 18
Chromium 0 1
Iron 7 17
Copper 2 12
Lead 1 1
Tin 5 1
Moly 54 44
Nickel 0 1
Manganese 0 1
Silver 0 0
Titanium 0 0
Potassium 2 1
Boron 58 47
Silicon 14 12
Sodium 8 4
Calcium 841 1621
Magnesium 1131 543
Phosphorus 1077 1061
Zinc 1161 1259
Barium 0 1
SUS @ 210F 62.4 65 - 78
cSt @ 210F 10.90 11.6 - 15.3
Flash in F 370 >370
Fuel% TR
Antifreeze% 0.0 0.0
Water% 0.0
Insolubles 0.1
Code:
Shell Totella T6 5w-40 1,042mi.
Aluminum 9 18
Chromium 0 1
Iron 7 17
Copper 2 12
Lead 1 1
Tin 5 1
Moly 54 44
Nickel 0 1
Manganese 0 1
Silver 0 0
Titanium 0 0
Potassium 2 1
Boron 58 47
Silicon 14 12
Sodium 8 4
Calcium 841 1621
Magnesium 1131 543
Phosphorus 1077 1061
Zinc 1161 1259
Barium 0 1
SUS @ 210F 62.4 65 - 78
cSt @ 210F 10.90 11.6 - 15.3
Flash in F 370 >370
Fuel% TR
Antifreeze% 0.0 0.0
Water% 0.0
Insolubles 0.1
So does anything look out of wack? Should the viscosity been out of range with 1000 miles? Looks like the calcium and magnesium are way off.
I've tried Rotella T5, Amsoil MCF and the Kawasaki Conventional.
In my opinion, the Kawi oil shifts the best but doesn't hold up for but 1000 miles or so.
The Amsoil didn't change much over some 2000 miles. Shift was decent.
The T5 shifted worst at first, then got better, and then started getting notchy esp after long highway runs.
Will try a 50/50 mix of Amsoil 20w-50 and 10w40 next.
In my opinion, the Kawi oil shifts the best but doesn't hold up for but 1000 miles or so.
The Amsoil didn't change much over some 2000 miles. Shift was decent.
The T5 shifted worst at first, then got better, and then started getting notchy esp after long highway runs.
Will try a 50/50 mix of Amsoil 20w-50 and 10w40 next.
5w40 doesnt hold up.
silicon of 14 in just 1k? either you have a lot of sealer leach OR you have a horrible air filter or you drove in circles in a dust storm.
tin of 5 in 1k might be because of that.
iron and aluminum are also kinda high for just 1k.
ok i got the original uoa to come up. just 3k on the motor. hmmm silicon might be leach, but the other numbers are up too.
i am thinking/hoping this is still breakin wear.
steve
silicon of 14 in just 1k? either you have a lot of sealer leach OR you have a horrible air filter or you drove in circles in a dust storm.
tin of 5 in 1k might be because of that.
iron and aluminum are also kinda high for just 1k.
ok i got the original uoa to come up. just 3k on the motor. hmmm silicon might be leach, but the other numbers are up too.
i am thinking/hoping this is still breakin wear.
steve
Thanks Steve. I have a K&N filter and don't drive in a lot of dusty conditions. It has been in there since last Oct and have not cleaned it. I will clean it and see if it helps on the next uoa. I did switch to Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10w40. I'm going to pull it at 1000 miles to compare to the 5w40. So you think none of the 5w40 oils hold up in this bike?
i think 5w40 is a great oil for motors. just not in shared sump bikes.
and i have yet to see a 10w40 hold up well either. i will be shocked if your sample shows any better susvis than the 5w40 did.
again m1 10w40 is a great motor oil, just doesnt seem to last in a shared sump bike. never mind the picture on the bottle.
i've seen lots of nice bottles with [censored] inside.
we have seen a few really really great uoa's with k&n so if its oiled well it can do a great job. big if.
your uoa was basically from 2k to 3k on the motor. still pretty darn new for a bike that should last a 100k+ i'd go with just breakin at this point, but i would also want to know if there was any issues up front too if there are any. how long is your warrenty since most bikes i buy dont have them.
steve
and i have yet to see a 10w40 hold up well either. i will be shocked if your sample shows any better susvis than the 5w40 did.
again m1 10w40 is a great motor oil, just doesnt seem to last in a shared sump bike. never mind the picture on the bottle.
i've seen lots of nice bottles with [censored] inside.
we have seen a few really really great uoa's with k&n so if its oiled well it can do a great job. big if.
your uoa was basically from 2k to 3k on the motor. still pretty darn new for a bike that should last a 100k+ i'd go with just breakin at this point, but i would also want to know if there was any issues up front too if there are any. how long is your warrenty since most bikes i buy dont have them.
steve
What oil will hold up good in this bike?
let's see first how the m1 does.
but, the hdeos should as would vr1.
a lot will depend on how cold you will ride in south IL.
but, the hdeos should as would vr1.
a lot will depend on how cold you will ride in south IL.
I thought the Rotella T6 was a HDEO? Do you mean a non syn 15w40 Rotella or delo? What is VR1? I will not ride below 50* F.
If your going to change often, every 2,500 miles or so.
VR1 sounds great (i havent used it but have read the UOAs), Also a 15/40 HDEO (Rotella, Delo LE 400, Mobile etc.)
Or ... if you bikes manual allows a 20/50 I just got a good report for my Vstar 1300 where viscosity didnt drop much using conventional Valvoline 20/50 motorcycle oil. First time I used it, wanted it for the summer, was so impressed with shifting, I just changed it again using the same.
After 2600 miles shifting was still fine, first time I ever felt that way. Its like $4. a quart in Walmart super centers or $5. in Auto stores and Amazon delivered free.
Since I do ride in winter at times when temps are above 60 (which happens quite a bit) I will still use my trusty 15/40 HDEO oils in the winter.
This is not to say just because I choose to use conventional oils and change frequently that I think that is the only way to do it. I would certainly try out the quality synthetics from Amsoil and Mobile 1. Im just not a fan of 5/40 synthetics, think its obvious that some of them have a good amount of viscosity improver that are broken down by the shared gear box.
VR1 sounds great (i havent used it but have read the UOAs), Also a 15/40 HDEO (Rotella, Delo LE 400, Mobile etc.)
Or ... if you bikes manual allows a 20/50 I just got a good report for my Vstar 1300 where viscosity didnt drop much using conventional Valvoline 20/50 motorcycle oil. First time I used it, wanted it for the summer, was so impressed with shifting, I just changed it again using the same.
After 2600 miles shifting was still fine, first time I ever felt that way. Its like $4. a quart in Walmart super centers or $5. in Auto stores and Amazon delivered free.
Since I do ride in winter at times when temps are above 60 (which happens quite a bit) I will still use my trusty 15/40 HDEO oils in the winter.
This is not to say just because I choose to use conventional oils and change frequently that I think that is the only way to do it. I would certainly try out the quality synthetics from Amsoil and Mobile 1. Im just not a fan of 5/40 synthetics, think its obvious that some of them have a good amount of viscosity improver that are broken down by the shared gear box.
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I agree, T6 is a cheap synthetic, using cheap oil modified into a synthetic, I honestly feel any synthetic in the 5/40 is no good for bikes unless called for in the manual.
As shown in many UOAs here the conventional 15/40s hold their viscosity better simply because less viscosity improver over a 5/40 cheap synthetic.
You can take it an extra step if you can use 20/50 and get Valvoline Motorcycle oil if your manual allows it.
I agree on the air filter too. I use OEM air filters, I dont buy into the hype and marketing of other filters that have to be oiled properly and oiled correctly by no one but me!
As shown in many UOAs here the conventional 15/40s hold their viscosity better simply because less viscosity improver over a 5/40 cheap synthetic.
You can take it an extra step if you can use 20/50 and get Valvoline Motorcycle oil if your manual allows it.
I agree on the air filter too. I use OEM air filters, I dont buy into the hype and marketing of other filters that have to be oiled properly and oiled correctly by no one but me!
i disagree that the SRT 5w40 is a cheap synth. it's very good....in a cummins/powerstroke/duramax diesel. just not in a bikes shared wet sump.
yeah oil air filters are a pain. major pain. *can* filter way better than paper alone, but lets be real about their use on the street. as in it simply doesnt belong. if it did all cars would have them as well.
yeah oil air filters are a pain. major pain. *can* filter way better than paper alone, but lets be real about their use on the street. as in it simply doesnt belong. if it did all cars would have them as well.
Originally Posted By: sunruh
i disagree that the SRT 5w40 is a cheap synth. it's very good....in a cummins/powerstroke/duramax diesel. just not in a bikes shared wet sump.
Yes, you got me there, then again, it is inexpensive. *L*
In all honesty I should have said for me personally I would not use any 5/40 oil in a shared sump. No reason to.
i disagree that the SRT 5w40 is a cheap synth. it's very good....in a cummins/powerstroke/duramax diesel. just not in a bikes shared wet sump.
Yes, you got me there, then again, it is inexpensive. *L*
In all honesty I should have said for me personally I would not use any 5/40 oil in a shared sump. No reason to.
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lol
i ran it once to test it (which is actually twice the way i do them). and i ground it up into water.
a great oil for an engine, but not for a transmission.
steve
i ran it once to test it (which is actually twice the way i do them). and i ground it up into water.
a great oil for an engine, but not for a transmission.
steve
I have been running Texas Tea M/C 10w40 in my '09 40k mile C14 for over a year with changes at 4k miles. I like it as much as Redline 10w40, at half the price. I do add 2oz of zddplus or zddpmax. The added zinc and phos really help with smooth shifting. This adds about $4 to the cost of an oil change, but still cheaper than any other M/C syns that I have tried. The much improved shifting is very important to me...
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