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#2644162 - 06/03/12 07:23 PM 5w20 vs. 10w30
Sonataman Offline


Registered: 01/15/12
Posts: 264
Loc: Ga
I have run 5w20 all except one OCI (ran M1 10w30 then) and all the 5w20's I've run gives some kind of metallic clatter upon cold start for the first couple of seconds. The M1 10w30 did not do this so the car is now filled again with 10w30 (PYB) and it does not do it either. I don't know what the sound is, but metal to metal is probably never a good thing. Manual specs 5w20 or 10w30 so I might just run 10w30 from now on.
_________________________
2011 Hyundai Sonata
1994 KLX686
2004 Ninja 250

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#2644185 - 06/03/12 07:38 PM Re: 5w20 vs. 10w30 [Re: Sonataman]
BISCUT Offline


Registered: 12/28/11
Posts: 1402
Loc: NewYorkistan
Not a whole lot to go off. Not knowing the engine you are talikng about with cetainty, all i can say is my F-150 runs very well. I use MC 5-20 Syn blend. It uses CVT chains that need consistent oil pressure to operate properly. If you start m truck and listen, you can hear the chains tensioning.

I can only speak to my engine, but the noise, and its plentiful, is normal and ok. For my engine, I could run a heavier weight oil and get rid of the noice, but that doesnt mean I did god by my engine!!

If you trusted the engineers enough to bu the [censored] thing, maybe good idea to also trust the oil spec for the engine.
_________________________
2010 Nissan Armada/Mobil1 5-30 P1(89k)
2008 BMW 328XI Mobil 1 0-40(80k)
2004 F-150 Lariat/M1 EX 5-20 P1(92k)
1995 Toyota Camry/ST SYN Fram Ult(119k)

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#2644195 - 06/03/12 07:47 PM Re: 5w20 vs. 10w30 [Re: BISCUT]
hemitom Offline


Registered: 03/12/07
Posts: 744
Loc: canada
He did say it was also speced for 10w30!
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#2644201 - 06/03/12 07:51 PM Re: 5w20 vs. 10w30 [Re: Sonataman]
spasm3 Offline


Registered: 05/30/10
Posts: 3858
Loc: out there
I think these aluminum block/head engines conduct more sound. My escape was spec'd for 5w20 and i noticed the same thing. I ran it all its life on 5w and 0w 30 and it was quieter.
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#2644243 - 06/03/12 08:54 PM Re: 5w20 vs. 10w30 [Re: Sonataman]
CourierDriver Offline


Registered: 12/27/09
Posts: 3124
Loc: Tennessee
motor oil university 101 on the home page has tons of stuff to make selections on motor oil
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#2644244 - 06/03/12 08:57 PM Re: 5w20 vs. 10w30 [Re: Sonataman]
chubbs1 Offline


Registered: 06/09/10
Posts: 4574
Loc: Merritt Island FL, USA

I have the same engine and run 5w30. I thought it ran fine on the 5w20 but since it is a DI I try to use an oil with the lowest NOACK volatility possible. PU has a very low NOACK and runs so smooth in there I forget it is running sometimes.

Stick with PU or Synpower and you will find it runs great
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#2644254 - 06/03/12 09:11 PM Re: 5w20 vs. 10w30 [Re: Sonataman]
friendly_jacek Offline


Registered: 05/04/03
Posts: 5343
Loc: southeast US
Originally Posted By: Sonataman
I have run 5w20 all except one OCI (ran M1 10w30 then) and all the 5w20's I've run gives some kind of metallic clatter upon cold start for the first couple of seconds. The M1 10w30 did not do this so the car is now filled again with 10w30 (PYB) and it does not do it either. I don't know what the sound is, but metal to metal is probably never a good thing. Manual specs 5w20 or 10w30 so I might just run 10w30 from now on.


Did you use different filter now vs then? Sounds like some other people complained about noise with 5W20 in Hyundais, bu wanted to rule out another variable.

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#2644263 - 06/03/12 09:25 PM Re: 5w20 vs. 10w30 [Re: Sonataman]
Michael_P Offline


Registered: 08/20/07
Posts: 1003
Loc: Ohio
Timing chain tensioners should not slack off when oil pressure drops. It may keep them in tension but a timing chain should not slack when the engine is off.

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#2644367 - 06/04/12 12:06 AM Re: 5w20 vs. 10w30 [Re: Michael_P]
TFB1 Offline


Registered: 09/03/10
Posts: 2622
Loc: VA
Originally Posted By: Michael_P
Timing chain tensioners should not slack off when oil pressure drops. It may keep them in tension but a timing chain should not slack when the engine is off.

Well they will, because on many engines the hydraulic tensioner applies pressure to a guide that takes up the chain slop... It only functions with oil pressure...

I've heard a 25K mi Ford 4.6 with delayed oil pressure on startup knock so bad due to whipping chains, you'd think it was going to fly to pieces... Problem on that one was the Purolator Classic filter, never knocked prior or since swapping filters...

After that experience, I wouldn't take one of those filters even if it were free...


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#2644440 - 06/04/12 06:55 AM Re: 5w20 vs. 10w30 [Re: chubbs1]
Sonataman Offline


Registered: 01/15/12
Posts: 264
Loc: Ga
Originally Posted By: chubbs1

I have the same engine and run 5w30. I thought it ran fine on the 5w20 but since it is a DI I try to use an oil with the lowest NOACK volatility possible. PU has a very low NOACK and runs so smooth in there I forget it is running sometimes.

Stick with PU or Synpower and you will find it runs great



PU is what is going in there on the next change and I was thinking a 5w20/10w30 50/50 mix, but might just go 10w30 since the startup clatter goes away with 10w30.
_________________________
2011 Hyundai Sonata
1994 KLX686
2004 Ninja 250

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#2644465 - 06/04/12 07:36 AM Re: 5w20 vs. 10w30 [Re: Sonataman]
pbm Offline


Registered: 04/19/04
Posts: 5251
Loc: New York
While 10w30 is fine for Georgia, I'd probably use 5w30 (or even 0w30 Mobil 1) for the faster flow at start-up.
I think you'd get the quieting effect and the start-up protection....best of both world's ....with 5w30.

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#2644466 - 06/04/12 07:36 AM Re: 5w20 vs. 10w30 [Re: Sonataman]
Char Baby Offline


Registered: 05/25/05
Posts: 7299
Loc: Rochester NY
Originally Posted By: Sonataman
Originally Posted By: chubbs1

I have the same engine and run 5w30. I thought it ran fine on the 5w20 but since it is a DI I try to use an oil with the lowest NOACK volatility possible. PU has a very low NOACK and runs so smooth in there I forget it is running sometimes.

Stick with PU or Synpower and you will find it runs great





PU is what is going in there on the next change and I was thinking a 5w20/10w30 50/50 mix, but might just go 10w30 since the startup clatter goes away with 10w30.



Sonataman,
Tell us what filter(s) you are using ?
And also, have you been using different filters with the different grades of oil ? i.e., filter "X" w/5W20 & filter "Y" w/ 10W30 ?

Of our 4 vehicles, I have noticed much of what you are describing in only 1 of our cars and it has to do more with the filter than the oil. '04 Altima 2.5L/Puro Classic works well.

The Nissan OE filter, Super Tech, FRAM & (PureOne believe it or not)all caused me startup rattle, winter/summer, didn't matter.
Puro Classic and NAPA ProSelect did not cause startup rattle! So, I've been sticking with the Puro Classic #14610(no rattle, available everywhere, price)

You my find at some point that even the 10W30 will cause you some noise. Then I'd be inclined to blame the filters anti-drainback valve(ADBV). You will also find the oil/filter combo that works best for you and personaly, I'd stick with it. You may already have!


Edited by Char Baby (06/04/12 07:42 AM)
_________________________
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1980 Firebird FORMULA V8-NEW
2001 Lexus RX-300 V6-NEW
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5S-NEW
2006 Mazda 3i 2.0L-PreOwned

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#2644483 - 06/04/12 07:59 AM Re: 5w20 vs. 10w30 [Re: TFB1]
A_Harman Offline


Registered: 10/01/10
Posts: 4275
Loc: Michigan
Originally Posted By: TFB1
Originally Posted By: Michael_P
Timing chain tensioners should not slack off when oil pressure drops. It may keep them in tension but a timing chain should not slack when the engine is off.

Well they will, because on many engines the hydraulic tensioner applies pressure to a guide that takes up the chain slop... It only functions with oil pressure...

I've heard a 25K mi Ford 4.6 with delayed oil pressure on startup knock so bad due to whipping chains, you'd think it was going to fly to pieces... Problem on that one was the Purolator Classic filter, never knocked prior or since swapping filters...

After that experience, I wouldn't take one of those filters even if it were free...



Yes, timing chain tensioners operate on oil pressure when the engine is running, but the ones I've seen have ratcheting mechanisms so that the chain will not go seriously slack when the engine is off. Maybe there was something wrong with the tensioner in the 4.6 Ford you heard.
_________________________
1985 Z51 Corvette track car
2002 Camaro Z28 LS1/6-speed
2001 Dodge Ram 2500 diesel
1972 GMC 1500 shortbed project truck

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#2644495 - 06/04/12 08:19 AM Re: 5w20 vs. 10w30 [Re: Sonataman]
demarpaint Offline


Registered: 07/03/05
Posts: 21314
Loc: NY
If the car is still under a factory warranty bring it in, and let them check it out. CYA in the event of a problem later on. JMO
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#2644575 - 06/04/12 10:02 AM Re: 5w20 vs. 10w30 [Re: Sonataman]
Sonataman Offline


Registered: 01/15/12
Posts: 264
Loc: Ga
It's done it since day one, and the 3 other's I drove initially did the same thing. Always used the factory Hyundai filter (except once I used an RP filter) and have only tried different oils.

In order were FF, M1 5w20 (x2), M1 10w30, M1 5w20, RP 5w20, M1 5w20, VDB 5w20 (x2) then PYB 10w30 (more for verification of lack of startup noise with the 10w30's).

Had purchased 2 5qt jugs of PU to do a 50/50 mix but now thinking that's what the car wants. With the factory Hyundai filter, or the RP, the startup clatter remained with all 5w20's.
_________________________
2011 Hyundai Sonata
1994 KLX686
2004 Ninja 250

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