In fact, it is an automatic. I know you'll all say it's for the weak, and I agree.

That in mind, what's a good idea. I know Jet takes your ECU and reprograms it. Sorta like a reflash I think.

If you have an automatic, I'd say you're going to have some trouble with involvement and "immediacy" no matter what you do. It'll be hard to get around the fact that almost everything the engine does is being filtered through the torque converter, which in turn is governed by a TCU program designed primarily for people who putter around all day at mind-numbingly boring speeds.

Your car was designed to be a healthily sized economical commuter with a pinch of upscaleness and a dash of sportiness. Honestly, the best way by FAR to make such a car feel involving and responsive is to have a manual transmission. The car will still be fairly mild dynamically, but at least you'll have a direct connection to the mechanicals. If you were still itching for more responsiveness, you could then install a lightweight flywheel. That, along with firmer engine and transmission mounts, would go a LONG way.

If you have to keep the automatic for whatever reason... You might be able to reprogram the TCU so that it keeps the torque converter locked up for more of the time. You might also be able to mod it for manual gear selection. I strongly second the suggestion to get lightweight wheels and tires (Tire Rack lists tire weights). Other than that, though, I honestly think you won't be able to get much for your money.

I will tell you I have had underdrive pullies on all my LT1 cars and my 2 of my LS1 cars, they just were not worth it at the track or on the Dyno.

Some guys like them because of the butt dyno, but on a FWD car the amount of hassel getting it installed is not worth it to me.
Do they make a good set of headers for your car?

You have to ask yourself what if your ultimate goal.
Lets take my Buick I have done no suspension mods, but I have done different rocker arms, exhaust, tune, CAI, smaller puller on the Eaton M90 and have ticked of a few 13.60's.
How much more suspension does your Honda really need?
You are going to run out of transmission before suspension in that car.

As it is an automatic, I would focus on two things above all others...
1) Performance/Dollar
2) Fun Factor i.e. What each feels like to you

Your car will never be a drag racer, you have too much going against you. But it can be a more fun to drive daily driver. Fun to drive is subjective, and you do not need big power gains to achieve this.

comptech supercharger. Either that or sell it and buy something else.

I really want to improve the fun to drive factor. that's the biggest thing...it just feels so heavy and serious...not light and quirky

That's the problem with FWD, and it's hard to beat.

Sway bars and some tuning can really help that thing go from ponderous to eager, but they can take a while to get set up properly.

Remember it's sometimes better to start out with something RWD and perhaps a bit lighter to make it easier on yourself.

It's not FWD. There are plenty of "light and quirky" feeling FWD cars (Civic Si, Mini Cooper, Golf GTI, etc.).

OP, the problem is that the whole car -- including a whole bunch of stuff that you can't really change, like suspension and steering geometry -- is set up to be something completely different from what you want. Modding is good for when your car is already in the right ballpark and you just want to alter a few things to make it perfect. If you try to mod a car to do something completely different from what it was designed to do, you're going to spend a lot of time and money and end up with something that is mediocre at best.

You probably feel like you don't want to ditch your current car after you've invested so much in it. I completely understand: I've been there and done that myself, as have a lot of friends of mine. But, just to pick an easy example, a 2006-2011 Civic Si -- even bone stock -- is WAY closer to what you want than your Accord will ever be. That's not to say it's a "better" car, of course; it's just better suited to your purposes. I can promise you that if you try to mod your Accord to bring it to parity with something like a Civic Si (or whatever other car you end up with), it'll cost enough money that you'd have been better off selling your car and using the mod money to help you buy the other car.

And we haven't even gotten into the fact that stock cars are almost always MUCH more reliable than modded cars.

But what is heavy and serious? The Buick only feels heavy and serious until I don't want it too, that means pushing down the go pedal a little more. Granted you are not going to through it into corners, like a Civic SI, CTSV or any M cars (just to name a few) but it is just like a GTP or the last genearation SHO, so it does OK.

No reason a small six lbs of boost blower couldn't do the same for your car. It just comes down to how much are your willing to spend.

It just so happens I am looking for the next thing to do to my 328... It is tricky, though, once you get as far "invested" in a car as I have, because in my case it absolutely has to be streetable 7mo/yr, with a minimal effect on comfort. Granted, my suspension is tweaked greatly before a track day (I am not crazy enough to run -3* camber, or extremely stiff settings on coilovers, on the street...), but I am at the point of greatly diminishing returns. Cannot drop anymore weight without losing safety (i.e. CF doors), and I can stuff 13" wide wheels in the rear with a few degrees more camber so traction is not an issue.
Beware, it is an addiction...

[quote=d00df00d]It's not FWD. quote]

Hello? An Accord is RWD? That's big news to me.

I was disagreeing with your statement that FWD is the source of the OP's problems. I know the Accord is FWD.

NP, I really missed that.

It's really more a function of weight balance and polar moment of inertia. The entire mass of that car is concentrated around the hood and you will have a really hard time tuning basic physics out of the equation. Plus it sure isn't a lightweight car either.

Despite their defenders the overwhelming majority of FWD cars have the same issue. Even my 98 Neon R/T which was revered as one of the few FWD cars that can really hustle around a road course would do a vicious snap spin if you braked hard while cornering and unloaded the rear tires.

The problem inherent to.FWD is that 50% of the tires do 100% of the work (braking, turning, accelerating) and there is always a limit before one overpowers the other. Add a limited slip differential and a highly tuned chassis and you can minimize but never get rid of these problems.

True, but OP isn't complaining that his car understeers too much or otherwise doesn't corner well enough. He's saying he wants it to feel lighter and more involving.