Red Line 5w20, 20K miles, VW Golf 1.9L TDI ALH

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I am running 0W5 righ now so how is any 30WT oil going to be better for mileage?

Here in AZ it is hard to control silicon because of the amount of particulate in the air, especially during a dust storms. We got hit with several blinding dust storms last summer while driving.
 
That "if it was me" was me saying if I'd owned a tdi, not a recommendation for you. I am not as mpg happy as you are.
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So disregard suggestion of going to something thicker. I remember seeing you stating that you've used a 5 grade oil...at some point dont be surprised to see your bearings start going at a faster rate if the trend here with a 20 grade was any indication(please note the context, not trying to scream fear :))

I just don't know quite frankly how you're doing it, but I realize you did state you care about fuel economy more than this car, which makes me wonder why get a UOA in the first place? It's late, so that thought made me laugh.

Be sure to post up your 0w-5 report on here, I'm sure it'll get an epic response like no other regardless of the results.
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What if the UOA for the NEO 0W5 oil is stellar? Then the UOA would have been worth it right? Unless there is something thinner or the UOA is really bad I will continue to use the NEO 0W5. I can always go to Royal Purple XPR-10 (a 0W10 oil that is streetable) if the 0W5 does not work out.

My goal is the best mileage at a wear level that I can live with for the next 250K miles. Also, keep in mind that my OCI is 20-40K and not the factory 10K.
 
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What is your oil pressure with the 0w5 in comparison to the heavier weights you ran? If your engine can't stay at its minimum factory spec oil pressure(what ever that is)then any savings in economy is gonna be negated by significantly reduced engine life. IMO of course.
 
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the increased lead could have been from the zmax also.

no constants here to compare uoa's
 
Originally Posted By: azsynthetic
............I replaced all filters and is currently running 0w5 Neo Racing Synthetic. This oil makes my engine so quiet at idle and at speed that I was totally surprised.............


Have you posted this at tdiclub? It would raise quite the ruckus.
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Most people on TDIclub would have a heart attack with just the 41K OCI that I ran, and even more with non-OEM approved oils. I don't like to hurt people.
 
I REALLY want to see your current OCI posted up once you get a UOA done. I applaud your bravery. I mean, 250,000 miles and counting already.
 
The late, great Gary Allan ran a 10 grade oil for a significant period of time in his Jeep and I believe that oil was still aboard at the time of his sad and untimely demise last year. IIRC, there is at least one UOA on record here.

I second 3311's request for oil pressure information, especially that compares pressures from the various oils used at the same rpms.

I applaud azsynthetic's willingness to experiment and share his results.
 
Unless I get a warning light or the engine throws a code, I don't worry about the oil pressure. Also, part of the oil pressure is diverted to the bypass filter too and so far so good. Knock on wood.
 
Hallo azsynthetic,
How many miles have you covered on the 0w5 so far?

I have a fiat brava 1.6 16v over here. i use it everyday.
It is on 0w20 for the past 25000KM. the engine has never been running so smooth and silent. ( i do long Autobahn run's, top speed for over 20 minutes is no exception, aprox 125MPH@ 6600RPM, it happens few times a week. )
I just ordered 5 quartz of the neo 0w5. I will use it for the next 25000KM oil interval.
 
Originally Posted By: azsynthetic
Most people on TDIclub would have a heart attack with just the 41K OCI that I ran, and even more with non-OEM approved oils. I don't like to hurt people.


That's not true. There is a long history of extended OCIs from TDIclubbers, especially bypass system users.

I'll reiterate that the Redline was a heavy-ish 20wt, and you're already seeing higher than normal bearing wear metals (can the Pb really be attributed to the additive?). The drop to 5wt is going to be more than expected I fear, and I will go out on a limb and say your next UOA on that stuff will be BAD. Can't wait to find out for sure though, I will freely accept if I'm wrong.

Also, the EGR delete will drastically reduce your soot buildup. The lower than expected soot numbers would be more attributable to EGR delete than the bypass filter IMO. Anyone thinking of going to a thinner oil or a non-diesel oil on an ALH TDI should think twice with a fully functional EGR system.
 
Originally Posted By: salgra
Hallo azsynthetic,
How many miles have you covered on the 0w5 so far?



I just went past 5K miles (8K Km) and everything is still fine. I was worried about oil consumption with the thin 0W5 but so far it is the same as any other oils. But then again, summer is not here yet so I'm keeping my finger crossed.

The lead level showed up right after I was using Z-max and 5W30 oil. It continued into the 5W20. I am not using Z-max now but the Neo oil has high lead level additive (see my VOA) so the next UOA might be misleading.

My goal is maximum mileage so if I get some lead, no big deal. My winter mileage now is consistently around 60 mpg. At $4+/gallon I more than makeup for any engine wear with the fuel saving.
 
Originally Posted By: azsynthetic
Unless I get a warning light or the engine throws a code, I don't worry about the oil pressure. Also, part of the oil pressure is diverted to the bypass filter too and so far so good. Knock on wood.

The advantage of an oil pressure gauge is that it is effectively an viscosity meter. It will tell you exactly how thick or thin an oil really is unlike the oil grade especially of non API rated oils which is more about marketing.

RL 5W-20 with it's HTHSV of 3.3cP is really a mid-grade 30wt oil.
NEO 0W-5 is a 20wt oil.
RP XPR 0W-10 is likely a 15wt oil with an estimated HTHSV of 2.4-2.5cP but it has a very low 140 VI so it's heavier than all 0W-20's on start-up.
And Gary Allen's 10wt oil had an estimated (by him) HTHSV of 2.6cP so it was really a 20wt oil.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: azsynthetic
Unless I get a warning light or the engine throws a code, I don't worry about the oil pressure. Also, part of the oil pressure is diverted to the bypass filter too and so far so good. Knock on wood.

The advantage of an oil pressure gauge is that it is effectively an viscosity meter. It will tell you exactly how thick or thin an oil really is unlike the oil grade especially of non API rated oils which is more about marketing.

RL 5W-20 with it's HTHSV of 3.3cP is really a mid-grade 30wt oil.
NEO 0W-5 is a 20wt oil.
RP XPR 0W-10 is likely a 15wt oil with an estimated HTHSV of 2.4-2.5cP but it has a very low 140 VI so it's heavier than all 0W-20's on start-up.
And Gary Allen's 10wt oil had an estimated (by him) HTHSV of 2.6cP so it was really a 20wt oil.
Good info, thanks!
Any idea of the HTHS viscosity value of synthetic ATF fluids(having following KV range: KV@40 = 36 cSt, KV@100 = 7.6) ?
 
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