Mobil 1 Racing 0W-30, 2500 miles, Subaru STI

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Tim_Siford

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2005 Subaru WRX STI. 5650 miles on car. 2500 miles on this oil fill. I'm hard on this car. I drive 2 miles to work. 2 miles home from work. 1 mile to the gym and 1 mile home from the gym. Lots of short runs. My oil temp only gets to 170 by the time I get to work. I upgraded to a Cobb Stage II setup that consists of a full TurboBack Exhaust and an ECU reprogram. New power is rated at 350hp and 385 torque. A few dyno runs are on this oil as well as many WOT blasts on the street. I only have 5650 miles on this car and this is my 6th oil change .... but the longest OCI so far: 2500 miles on the Mobil 1 Racing. Why did I choose M1R? First, short trips. I wanted a lighter oil to help get it hotter quicker. I also wanted a powerful synthetic with lots of additive due to my heavy right foot. It's doing pretty good ....

http://www.bescaredracing.com/sti/oil/analysis/5650.JPG

The M1R has lots of Phosphorous, lots of Zinc, a good dose of Boron, and a little moly. Not bad. I'm liking this oil so far. I have a new fill in right now and will probably leave it in for 3000 miles this time. I use ONLY OEM oil filters. They are the best for this car. I cut my oil filter open on this change. I found a few very small slivers of aluminum. Nothing I think I need to worry about. When I say small ... I mean small.

Tim
 
If you do such short trips, a 0w20 is an even better choice. Dr AEHaas uses it in his Ferrari.
grin.gif
 
Tim,

Cliff's Notes: consider M1 0W-40, fully warm up your engine at least 1x a week.

0. That engine is *hardly* broken in... I would have stuck with quality petroleum based oil until 10,000 miles or the onset of cold weather (Castrol GTX, Havoline/Chevron, Pennzoil). However, you're not gonna do it any harm with M1.
0a. I sure hope you fully warm up your engine before you open out that throttle.

1. *drool!* STi! Stage II STi! *drool some more!* I'm just a little jealous.

2. Man, those are short trips! If I were you, I'd take it on a 20 mile highway jaunt at least once a week, to get any water and fuel dilution evaporated/burned off.
2a. Walk to and from the gym
smile.gif


3. I would use M1 0W-40. Why?

a. It's cheaper than M1 0W-30 Racing
b. It has lower P/Zn... keep your (hardly warmed up) catalytic converter cleaner
c. You can find it pretty much anywhere... 0W-30R, not so easy to find
d. 0W-40 will still have lower viscosity on startup/for short trips
e. Has given yeoman's UOAs with all sorts of engines

I'm a little partial to Subarus and have too much to say about them.

Cliff's Notes: consider M1 0W-40, fully warm up your engine at least 1x a week.
 
quote from Tim:

quote:
I wanted a lighter oil to help get it hotter quicker.
Click to expand...
You mean a thinner oil to help the engine come up to operating temperature quicker?

A thinner oil flows more freely and would carry more heat away,
not allowing the engine to get to operating temperature as quickly
as a thicker oil that flows more slowly and remove the heat at a slower
rate allowing the engine to get hotter quicker, and in turn the engine would be at operating temperature quicker?

See this link:
Thick and thin oil


Bill
 
quote:
Originally posted by Winston:
offtopic.gif

Can you explain what the "cob stage 2" system is?
Click to expand...
COBB stage 1 and stage 2 info:
http://cobbtuning.com/sti/power-s.html#stage2

quote:
Our Stage 2 Power Package includes the AccessPORT, our revolutionary hand-held map transportation device, and our ultra-high quality stainless steel turbo-back exhaust system. This package is available with or without a catalytic converter. In testing, the addition of our unique high-flow metallic substrate catalytic converter did not reduce the peak performance of this package.
Click to expand...
BTW, I'm currently running COBB's stage 1 setup and am very happy with it...I can't wait to upgrade to Stage 2 though
grin.gif
 
quote:
Originally posted by bigpaulo:
Tim,

Cliff's Notes: consider M1 0W-40, fully warm up your engine at least 1x a week.

0. That engine is *hardly* broken in... I would have stuck with quality petroleum based oil until 10,000 miles or the onset of cold weather (Castrol GTX, Havoline/Chevron, Pennzoil). However, you're not gonna do it any harm with M1.
0a. I sure hope you fully warm up your engine before you open out that throttle.

1. *drool!* STi! Stage II STi! *drool some more!* I'm just a little jealous.

2. Man, those are short trips! If I were you, I'd take it on a 20 mile highway jaunt at least once a week, to get any water and fuel dilution evaporated/burned off.
2a. Walk to and from the gym
smile.gif


3. I would use M1 0W-40. Why?

a. It's cheaper than M1 0W-30 Racing
b. It has lower P/Zn... keep your (hardly warmed up) catalytic converter cleaner
c. You can find it pretty much anywhere... 0W-30R, not so easy to find
d. 0W-40 will still have lower viscosity on startup/for short trips
e. Has given yeoman's UOAs with all sorts of engines

I'm a little partial to Subarus and have too much to say about them.

Cliff's Notes: consider M1 0W-40, fully warm up your engine at least 1x a week.
Click to expand...
bigpaulo,

Thanks for the comments. I actually swapped to synthetic BECAUSE of the onset of cold weather. In fact, I swapped to Mobil 1 0W-40
wink.gif
I changed it out for M1R because I wanted a thinner oil to help with the short trips AND because I wanted the extra protection that the M1R will give. I'm not worried about the converters because my APS exhaust has a replaceable catalytic converter so it will be relatively harmless for me to put in a new cat when that time comes (or the racepipe - lol).

I've considered walking to the gym - but I do it during work hours so I want to get there as quick as possible and get back as quick as possible. Of course, I could always have my workout partner swing by and pick me up
wink.gif


I understand all your points about 0W-40. In fact, that is why it was my first synthetic oil when I swapped due to the really cold weather we were having. Here is my 0W-40 UOA:
http://www.bescaredracing.com/sti/oil/analysis/3140.jpg
I usually just order a couple 6-packs of the M1R from avlube (distributor from this site) and everything is shipped to me on a reasonable time frame at a fairly good price. The M1R is still looking pretty good so I'll probably keep running it until something gives me a reason not to run it.

Thanks for the input!

t
 
quote:
Originally posted by zoomzoom:
any reason why you run your OCI's so short?
Click to expand...
I wanted to do a couple quick dino oil changes right off the bat to get all the gunk out of the motor. Then I had a bad batch of dino that made the engine make some really horrid noises on cold startup (not the usual Scooby knocks) so I swapped to M1 0W-40. Then I got interested in M1R. I wanted to do a quick 2500 interval because there isn't that much data on this oil and I didn't want to take a chance.

t
 
quote:
Originally posted by Santo Fontana:
Dont use a 20 weight! You are already having fuel dilution.

Take the car out on the highway sometimes.
Click to expand...
Yea - IMHO, a 20 wt oil is too thin for a turbocharged daily driven scooby. These motors like it a little thicker! JMHO though!

t
 
quote:
Originally posted by Tim_Siford:
I usually just order a couple 6-packs of the M1R from avlube (distributor from this site) and everything is shipped to me on a reasonable time frame at a fairly good price. The M1R is still looking pretty good so I'll probably keep running it until something gives me a reason not to run it.
Click to expand...
Tim, not sure if you heard or not, but someone on this site posted that Mobil 1 Racing formulation has been discontinued. So you may want to stockpile a bit of this oil if you like it for your STi.
 
I have seen alot of " use lighter oil to help it get hotter quicker" I don't understand. Is the sump temp 170 ? The oil gets hotter as it is pumped and through the bearings and turbo so the oil MAY be getting warm enough to evaporate the water and feul. Check analysis looks ok not that I am an expert.

[ May 18, 2005, 11:29 PM: Message edited by: Steve S ]
 
quote:
Originally posted by Santo Fontana:
Dont use a 20 weight! You are already having fuel dilution.

Take the car out on the highway sometimes.
Click to expand...
splain feul dilution on this oil analysis?
 
What is the TBN on M1 racing? I know older race oils didnt have a high base number so they would be spent by the end of a day.
 
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