Fuchs Titan Supersyn 10W60

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I did some searching and can't find any feedback or even much info on this oil. All I can find is ACEA A3/B3 API SL/CF and Fiat 9.55535-H3 ...

I have always ran motul 300v 20w60 or lubro moly 10w60 before but it is now easier for me to get the fuch and was curious about it.

I don't care about fuel mileage, drain intervals and do not want to run anything 0w or non-synthethic.

I just did an oil change with it and a MANN filter on my 2002 m3 wich gets used and abused (street and track) and will send the oil for analysis in 5000kms but was wondering if anyone ran it.
 
I believe it's actually a rebranded Silkolene Pro 4 motorcycle oil, but it might have been discontinued.
 
Originally Posted By: dparm
I believe it's actually a rebranded Silkolene Pro 4 motorcycle oil, but it might have been discontinued.


It's still available, funny thing i was going to run it the BMW motorcycle too, instead of the 300v if the results are good.
 
You may want to ask Fuchs-Silkolene how the additive package is compared to the car oils, but typically they're fine. I've run motorcycle 300V in my car with no ill effects (I saw a test that showed moto 300V just has extra boron, that's all).
 
10w60.png


here's what I found, I'll have to refresh on what that all means as I haven't done any oil research since switching to 300v and lubro couple of years ago.
 
Originally Posted By: Vwalex
Originally Posted By: dparm
I believe it's actually a rebranded Silkolene Pro 4 motorcycle oil,


i was going to run it the BMW motorcycle too,


I was using Silkolene Pro 4 in my motorcycles,but when the only bike that could use it was my trials bike which can go a couple of years between oil changes,I used the rest of the open 5 litre in my airhead BMW. The 15/50 was a bit thin for our temps by BMW's chart,but it was good in the bike. I didn't bother with a UOA because I was just using up extra oil.
 
Specs look rather unremarkable for a 10w60, about on-par with every other 10w60 I've seen.

Would be curious to know the basestocks, add pack, HTHS, TBN, etc.
 
Originally Posted By: dparm
Specs look rather unremarkable for a 10w60, about on-par with every other 10w60 I've seen.

Would be curious to know the basestocks, add pack, HTHS, TBN, etc.


I'm not expecting this oil to be better than what i was using. If it's comparable then it's perfect for me as it's easier to get and less than half the price.

I emailed fuchs today to get some more info.
 
I did not get much more info from fuchs. Can I send a liter of new unused oil as well as my used one for analysis to see how it aged? Guess I'll send some emails today...
 
I presume your looking for a less expensive option to the Castrol TSW 10W-60.
First this is not as thick an oil as the grade would indicate.
It's virgin HTHSV is 5.3cP and is know to shear a good 15-20% dropping the HTHSV down into the mid 4cP range.

You could go with readily available Red Line and use a 50/50 blend of Red Line 5W-40 and 5W-50 which would still give you a 5W-50 with a HTHSV of 5.2cP but IMO since RL oils don't shear that would likely stil be too heavy. RL 5W-40 (HTHS 4.6cP) or 10W-40 (HTHSV 4.7cP) would still likely provide more oil pressure than sheared TWS.

Of course the proper way to fine tune your oil viscosity is with an OP gauge. A freind of mine who used to have a 2002 E46 M3 and tracked it a lot used M1 0W-40 in the winter and experimented with various heavy oils including Motul 300V during the summer, finally wound up using M1 0W-40 on the track as well since he never tested the minimum OP spec's even with oil temp's in the 280F range.
 
I did the 10psi per 1000rpm thing a couple of years ago when thinner started getting popular on here and started running 0w30, spun a bearing. Figured it was a coincidence, ran 5w30 in my turbo vw a little after, blew the turbo. Spoke to some reputable engine builders (wich migth not know anything about oil but do see a lot of engines) and started running 10w60.

Never had an issue, engine starts in minus 30celcius with a tiny 6lbs braille battery and have done winter rallying, a good 25 000km on the track and 40 000km in the streets driving like at the track, oil reaching over 300F both on the streets and track regularly (I haven't had a set of tires lasting over 8000km in that car) and everything still looked new when I opened up the pan to fix a pan leak.

I know theory dictates otherwise but pratices always beats theory in the real world.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
I presume your looking for a less expensive option to the Castrol TSW 10W-60.


No, as the 300v was more expensive than the TSW and lubro moly very closely priced. It's just that this is a lot easier to get for me now. Price never really is a factor when it comes to oil or tires for my cars, any savings on those is false savings.
 
Here's all the 10w60 auto oils you can currently get. There are some oddballs like 15w60 and 20w60 or even 25w60 but I didn't bother pursuing those.

The Millers is intriguing and has a very good VI. TWS has excellent cold pumping for a 10w.



Castrol TWS Motorsport
API SJ/CF
Density: 0.864
KV@40: 161
KV@100: 24.4
VI: 179
Flash: >200C
Pour: -51C
TBN: ?
HTHS: 5.4
NOACK: ?
Cold crank: 4860 @ -25C


Liqui-Moly Synthoil Race Tech GT1
API SL/CF
MB 229.1
Density: 0.86
KV@40: 163
KV@100: 24
VI: 179
Flash: 238C
Pour: -35C
TBN: ?
HTHS: ?
NOACK: 6.9%
Cold crank: ?


Gulf Competition
API SL/CF
ACEA A3/B4
Density: 0.866
KV@40: 168.5
KV@100: 24.1
VI: 175
Flash: >200C
Pour: -32C
TBN: 9.2
HTHS: ?
NOACK: ?
Cold crank: 6450 @ -25C



Millers Oils CFS
Density: 0.867
KV@40: 125
KV@100: 22.0
VI: 205
Flash: >200C
Pour: -25C
TBN: ?
HTHS: ?
NOACK: ?
Cold crank: 7000 @ -25C



Mobil 1 Extended Life
API SM/CF
ACEA A3/B4
VW 505.00, MB 229.1
Density: 0.86
KV@40: 152.7
KV@100: 22.7
VI: 178
Flash: 234C
Pour: ?
TBN: 11.8
HTHS: 5.7
NOACK: ?
Cold crank: ?


Shell Helix Ultra Racing
API SM/CF
ACEA A3/B4
Ferrari, VW 505.00, MB 229.1, Fiat 9.55535 H3
Density: 0.850
KV@40: 151
KV@100: 22.8
VI: 181 (est)
Flash: 215C
Pour: -39C
TBN: ?
HTHS: 5.42
NOACK: ?
Cold crank: ?


Redline
API SM/CF
ACEA A3/B4
Density: ?
KV@40: 173
KV@100: 25.5
VI: 182
Flash: 257C
Pour: -45C
TBN: ?
HTHS: 6.7
NOACK: 6
Cold crank: 6500 @ -25C


GReddy GR-1
KV@40: 161 (est)
KV@100: 25.4
VI: 184
Flash: ?
Pour: -50C
TBN: 9.4
HTHS: ?
NOACK: ?
Cold crank: ?
 
Originally Posted By: Vwalex
I did the 10psi per 1000rpm thing a couple of years ago when thinner started getting popular on here and started running 0w30, spun a bearing. Figured it was a coincidence, ran 5w30 in my turbo vw a little after, blew the turbo.

Neither of those are necessarily viscosity related causes.
 
Most VW turbos need heavy 30s and light 40s (that's what VW 502/505 is), but we're getting slightly OT here.
 
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Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: Vwalex
I did the 10psi per 1000rpm thing a couple of years ago when thinner started getting popular on here and started running 0w30, spun a bearing. Figured it was a coincidence, ran 5w30 in my turbo vw a little after, blew the turbo.

Neither of those are necessarily viscosity related causes.


I'm not saying they are but I and the people I spole to have had problems when running anythinf under 5w40 in extreme use and I was using ester based thinner oils not a chheaper quality either.

And the bmw motorcycle is oil cooled so I don't want to take risks and the bmw engineers surely had a reason for specifying a thicker oil in the s54. Plus I've had great results so far with the 10w60 so why risk going thinner.
 
I'd be the first to suggest that a 3.5cP HTHSV 30wt oil might be borderline if you're seeing oil temp's of 150C which can happen in a M3 on the track on a hot day.

Even most SM/SN 5W-40 oils can be quite light with a HTHSV as low as 3.6cP; i.e., Shell Helix or Pennzoil Ultra 5W-40 (HTHSV of 3.68cP).
Mobil 1 0W-40 is actually fairly robust with a HTHS vis of 3.8cP.
For a higher degree of safety margin a HTHSV 4.0cP to 4.2cP oil is all that's required and anything more than 4.2cP starts to become increasingly counter-productive. As I mentioned the TSW is known to shear a lot, easily down into the low HTHSV 4cP range.
If one is going to deviate away from the spec' oil and go with a more shear stable product, look past the SAE grade on the bottle and concentrate on the HTHSV, that's what counts.

BTW, how's your Braille AGM battery holding up? It is incredably light! I'm running a small AGM motorcycle battery in my Caterham (350 CCA) but it still weights twice what the Braille battery does! I'm actually thinking about Braille's lithium ion 2 lbs battery or even the 1 lb version but the question is will it reliably start my 2L high compression engine.
 
If you are tracking it, I'd be inclined to tell you to run some Redline 10w60 and maybe water it down slightly with one of their 0w oils a bit. Motul's 300V 15w50 has HTHS of 5.33 (basically a light 60) and is almost totally shear-proof (their words are "0% shear loss : Stable oil pressure whatever using conditions"). Starting TBN is 11.7!

Then again, doesn't that car have an oil pressure gauge?
 
Last edited:
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