Remanufactured OEM Ford Transmission 04 Navigator

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Originally Posted By: bdcardinal


As far as the filter thing, if I am wrong, then I got bad info and I am sorry if I ruffled feathers. You do have to remember that people generally don't read the paperwork that comes with the trans that states the add in filter must be replaced with any trans service. All the proper maintainence is outlined in the paperwork that comes with the assembly. When I was an apprentice pulling these trans assemblies in and out the first step was to toss the customer portion of the paperwork on the passenger seat with a note that said "READ THIS" in as big as we could write.


Fair enough. I do agree that many people tends to ignore "special instructions" with their cars, even if emphasized by LARGE PRINT and verbal counseling sessions. I wrenched for a living once, including at Ford dealerships, and know how that works.

But that's a separate issue to the operation of the filter, however, and why I felt compelled to (vigorously) challenge your comments lest they leave people with an incorrect impression of Magnefine or Filtran inline transmission filters... both of which are good products.

To go into more detail on this, I don't have a figure on how much contamination a Magnefine (MF), or similar small filter, will hold before it begins to bypass. I know the standard change interval for a MF is 30K and likely that has a very large safety factor. The guy that designed the Magnefine gave me the impression that you could about double that interval on most cars but I won't speak for the company.

What follows below is something I worked out for a guy that was putting a P1 filter in as a trans filter (read it and then come back up here) and if we plugged in numbers for a filter that holds 80 percent less contaminants before the bypass is open (my educated guess for the MF), that would be a capacity of 2600 milligrams and dividing 2600 mg by the average mg/mile I calculated below (0.025 mg/1000mile), that works out to 104,000 miles before the filter is plugged and in full bypass.

Again, I don't have the actual holding capacity of the Magnefine, so it could be higher or lower. Also, if you were installing the Magnefine in a failed trans situation and had extra gunk in the system, you'd have to downgrade your estimate. Because the Magnefine has a magnet and will cat ALL the ferrous stuff before it reaches the filter, that both extends the interval for the filter element and increases the overall efficiency since 51 percent of the contaminants measured by Eleftherakis and Khalil were ferrous.

BTW, even if the filter element is plugged on a MF, and the filter is bypassed, the magnet is still catching that 51 percent of stuff that is ferrous.

Filter Calculations

On average, ATF in a trans that has never been serviced contains approximately 265 mg/l of contaminants after 70K miles of service, 90 percent of which are metallic. The particle sizes range from 5 to 80 microns, about 80 percent of them larger than 5u. Depending on the filter you use, let's say 15u absolute, you are only going to get a percentage of that percentage.

Here's a particle Count test from the trans of one of my trucks for context.

ISO Code (3) 18/17/14
>= 2 Micron 3257
>= 5 Micron 1206
>= 10 Micron 334
>= 15 Micron 129
>= 25 Micron 30
>= 50 Micron 3
>= 100 Micron 0

You are going to catch all the particles from 15u and larger and some of the smaller ones. As the filter loads up, it actually becomes more efficient (a process called sintering) so the filter gets better with age.

Ok, lets go back to that 265 milligrams per liter figure, an average developed by Engineers Eleftherakis and Khalil over decades of testing. If you have 12 quarts of fluid, that's about 11.3 liters so there is a total of about 2994 milligrams generated in 70K miles. Let's call it 3,000 mg. Divide that by 70K miles and that's .0429 mg/mile, which we'll call .043 mg/mile.

Let's say your filter can realistically catch 60 percent of that total amount, so that's .025 mg/mile. Purolater advertises their filters hold up to 13 grams of contaminants before the bypass opens, so lets use that figure.

Convert milligrams into grams and you have 13,000. 13,000/.025= 520,000. 520,000 miles to deliver a max load to a filter that can carry 13 grams. Cut it in half and you still are talking upwards of 250K miles. How many miles do you drive per year?

Consider also that you have eliminated the built in contamination as well as that which come from break-in, both of which are included in Eleftherakis and Khalil's 265 mg/l figure. They also state that 75 percent of a transmission's lifetime generation of contaminants come within the first 5K or so miles, so by changin the oil, you have greatly reduced the per mile generation of contamination.
 
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I was told exactly the same thing as as bd said by two local Ford dealers on separate occasions so someone at Ford parts is not on the same sheet of music.
That being said i tried the Magnefine three times and was disappointed in the quality or lack thereof. Two leaked at the seams, that's when i went to the larger external filter.
I wouldn't consider using their filter again for this reason alone, i don't want to loose an expensive tranny because of a leaky filter. When does the seam leak turn into a gusher?

I have to wonder if Ford experienced any comebacks due to leakage?
That would sure explain why they dropped this idea.
 
I have six MF filters in service currently. I replaced the most recently installed one when it seeped. I have a second one seeping a little now (the second most recently installed... hmm) but I'm going to leave it a while and see what it does. Thus far, it's just wet around the seam, attracting dirt and getting no worse. I have several apart and in looking at the design, I doubt it could become a gusher. At some point I will pull it off, tighten the cap and put it back on for observation.

No matter what, it's an issue and it should be addressed. Some leak... a lot don't... but they should be leak/seep free and enough are showing up as seepers that it's significant. Period. I haven't given up on them yet but I can understand why people might. BTW, I know the top guy at Boss products and I have told him of these leaks. I also have spin-on ATF filters in service but I like the simplicity and convenience of the small inlines.

I have some "connections" and have looked into why Ford is dropping all the inlines from the kit. I've not heard anything about quality issues. If someone can produce some evidence beyond Joe Doakes told them so, I'd gladly listen. At this point, I can't definitively say but it appears to me it comes for a couple of reasons:

1) Ford has improved the remans and the installation procedures so they are less necessary.

2) It's a bean counting and reduction of complications issue.

If someone can give me a thread of verifiable information, I have a few connections and sources where I could pull on that thread and see what unravels. Don't make the mistake of assuming that I am married to the side of the issue I have thus far defended. I have a lot of info at hand that disproves (to my logical mind at least) what has been said so far. I will follow the facts and the logic wherever it goes.
 
Today I called my service writer at my Ford dealership. They replaced my transmission and it didn't correct my problem. So now I have a new rear differential, a new drive shaft and a new transmission but according to the dealership, it still has the problem. All this work has been done on my Ford Extended Premium warranty. They want me to take the car back as is because it seems it could open a can of worms with Ford if they go back and say it didn't work. I'm on the fence about what I should do. I'm thinking I should talk with the service manager and let him tell me what he's going to do before I take it back. Thoughts?
 
Thoughts?

Well, I think Trav and I called it when we said it wasn't the transmission
grin.gif


Seriously, I think it is, as we mentioned earlier, probably the transfer case.

Their incompetence is not your fault. It should have been properly diagnosed in the first place rather than throwing thousands of Ford's dollars in parts at it guessing.
 
Originally Posted By: Lakersguy
I'm thinking I should talk with the service manager and let him tell me what he's going to do before I take it back. Thoughts?


Yes, I think you should let them tell you how they'll fix your vehicle. They obviously acknowledge the issue as a problem and as "not normal", to have put so much into it to begin with. They can't possibly justify giving up now, not to a customer.
 
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They replaced my transmission and it didn't correct my problem. So now I have a new rear differential, a new drive shaft and a new transmission but according to the dealership, it still has the problem.

Sorry to hear that! I kind of thought they were barking up the wrong tree.

This fiasco sounds like a pure and simple lack of diagnostic skills on someone's part and they would like to make it at your expense.
Don't let them off the hook, they will try and run your extended warranty down and leave you stuck with a possibly large repair down the road.
At this point the service manager is trying to cover his backside.

Someone needs to get under this truck with the wheels chocked
and park brake on and listen/look at where this noise is coming from then pinpoint it with a stethoscope while another person puts it in reverse.

I hope they checked out the front drive shaft and front/rear diff mounting points and bushings before they decided to throw these parts at it.
Being AWD a bum front shaft U Joint or front diff mounting bushing can also cause the noise, this is a rear wheel drive biased system but there is always some power being transmitted to the front diff.
These should have been check before any other work was performed.
The front drive shaft rear U Joint is a bugger to check as it has a shroud around it, it is right next to the transmission.

I am still leaning toward the transfer case but given the history of this repair i have to question if they actually checked anything properly.
Is this a Ford extended warranty? If so call them and have a conversation, tell them you want another dealer to look at this and you are not satisfied.
 
Yes, its on an extended warranty. Supposedly, many of the things you suggest were done. I talked with the service mgr. in person late yesterday. He asked to keep the car at least through today and that he would come up with a plan to fix what ever it is. I'm not feeling good about it. Throwing money at it from my extended warranty and not fixing it is wrong.
 
The dealer is now replacing the PCM because the transmission does not get enough pressure in it. It didn't get enough in my old tranny as well after several repairs to increase the pressure.
 
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It didn't get enough in my old tranny as well after several repairs to increase the pressure

So they knew the tranny pressure low and didn't investigate further before throwing a tranny at it? That is truly beyond incompetent.
My guess is the Ford rep told them to do this, it might work who knows, its a shame if that's all it was from the get go.

Low pressure usually results in slipping, burned clutches, and hesitation going into gear, delayed shifts etc.
Usually issues with reverse have similar effects on low also as they share some of the same components.
One has to wonder if these guys checked the fluid level before testing the pressure.

Hey good luck with this, i hope they get something done to fix it, keep on them, get it fixed and change dealers.
 
Truly incompetent sounds about right.
Local Ford dealer here once replaced a transfer case they said was bad because of a loud noise emanating from that area. This was almost $2k at the time....
When it didn't stop the noise they then found a rock trapped in a skid plate.
crazy.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Lakersguy
Trans worked great forward and reverse. It just had a really bad clunk going into reverse. I've had different dealerships trying to fix it for 4 years. Hopefully, this is it.


Originally Posted By: Lakersguy
Today I called my service writer at my Ford dealership. They replaced my transmission and it didn't correct my problem. So now I have a new rear differential, a new drive shaft and a new transmission but according to the dealership, it still has the problem. All this work has been done on my Ford Extended Premium warranty. They want me to take the car back as is because it seems it could open a can of worms with Ford if they go back and say it didn't work. I'm on the fence about what I should do. I'm thinking I should talk with the service manager and let him tell me what he's going to do before I take it back. Thoughts?


I just noticed this thread today and had to read through it, all the while thinking "this sounds exactly like my 2003 Navigator". Our 2003 Navigator does the same thing, shift it into reverse..."clunk"...then all is fine. We purchased it when it was 3 years old, 39k on the odometer.

I never noticed the clunking until we had already purchased the vehicle and I went to move it in the driveway at home. I did some investigating, and the old service records showed that the rear differential had been previously rebuilt due to "excessive gear noise". They went inside the differential shortly afterwards to change some shims (same complaint I assume). The transfer case appears to be tight, and the rear differential has very little "slop". U-joints are in great shape, and I can't find any excessive play in the transmission mount. I'm wondering if the noise is just more noticeable because of the aluminum differential housing?

Regardless of the cause, it hasn't gotten any better or worse in the 4 years I've owned it. Although it is noticeable, I don't find it offensive.
 
Would my 2006 F-150 4x4 at work have the same transmission? It clunks HARD into reverse, but all other gears operate normally. Normal forward gear shifting is butter-smooth. But it'll give you a mild case of whiplash going into reverse. It's worse when it's cold (even off fast idle).
 
Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
Would my 2006 F-150 4x4 at work have the same transmission? It clunks HARD into reverse, but all other gears operate normally. Normal forward gear shifting is butter-smooth. But it'll give you a mild case of whiplash going into reverse. It's worse when it's cold (even off fast idle).


No.
 
Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
Which one does it have? It's a 5.4L 3V engine, with a 4-speed auto.


probably has the 4R75W IIRC. The 4R100 wasn't common (though it was used) in the F-150.
 
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