Mobil 1 0w30 / 12,000miles gmc Terrain

[Dogger37]

I'm new to the board and was hoping that you guys could take a look at my sample for me. I did the first oil change at 2000 miles and then this one at 12,000 per the OLM. There has been some concerns about fuel in the oil over at the Terrain forum, GM is having some issues with the fuel pumps, as well as whether the OLM is correctly calibrated for the new DI motors. A few of the members started making comments about how bad Mobil 1 is, etc. I wanted to come here to the experts to see what your thoughts are. I was running 0w30 Mobil 1 with a Mobil 1 oil filter as well during this oil cycle. There are the results.
Code:


MI/HR on Oil 12,000

MI/HR on Unit 15,000

Sample Date 6/20/2011

Make Up Oil Added 0 qts

MINE AVERAGE



ALUMINUM 12 4

CHROMIUM 7 1

IRON 211 12

COPPER 14 2

LEAD 2 0

TIN 0 1

MOLYBDENUM 107 56

NICKEL 3 0

MANGANESE 11 1

SILVER 0 0

TITANIUM 0 0

POTASSIUM 1 2

BORON 56 75

SILICON 25 11

SODIUM 7 34

CALCIUM 2123 1980

MAGNESIUM 12 30

PHOSPHORUS 624 608

ZINC 768 737

BORON 0 0

cSt Viscosity @ 100°C 50.8 55-66

SUS Viscosity @ 210°F 7.51 8.8-12.2

Flashpoint in °F 315 >385

Fuel % 3.5
Antifreeze % 0 0

Water% 0
Insolubles % 0.3
TBN 2

TAN

ISO Code

 

[chevrofreak]

The 0w-30 is not available in an Extended Performance version.

I agree with them that Mobil 1 is not good oil.

 

[Dogger37]

Thanks for your input and correction.

 

[JOD]

First off, quick question--is the oil the 5W30 EP, or 0W30 AFE? I don't think there's a 0W30EP.

I ask because it will probably make a difference in evaluating just how trashed this oil became.

Looking at flashpoint and viscosity, it's pretty clear this oil is over-done. And looking at the fuel, and knowing the DI's history I'm guessing that's the issue.

Did you have the OLM recalibration down (or was it necessary for your particular truck?). I'm typically a big fan of OLM's, but in this case the recommendation doesn't seem suitable.

The one thing I wouldn't do is panic about the iron. Yeah, it's very high; but it's a single UOA on a new engine. If I were in your shoes, I used M1EP (if your partial to M1), which is a pretty stout oil, and halve the interval and re-test.

 

[tinmanSC]

Holy iron, batman!

 

[Dogger37]

its the AFE 0w30 not the EP 5w30. That was a typo sorry guys!

Searching the forums and it seems that GM has issued a recalibration for the 6's but its unclear whether they have for the 4's. Im gonna call the dealer tomorrow and ask.

 

[wallyuwl]

I have that same engine, run about 60 percent hwy miles, and change it out between 6000 and 6500 miles. I would never let it go as far as the OLM says.

I agree with the suspicion that the OLM is not calibrated correctly for these engines. The furthest I've let mine go down so far (about 31k miles) is 36%.

Quick question: would a fuel pump be covered under the 100k drive train warranty?

 

[Dogger37]

for the issue being excessive fuel in the oil which also is resulting in poor gas mileage I would hope they would cover it!

 

[Brons2]

Originally Posted By: tinmanSC
Holy iron, batman!


I was going to say that too.

Maybe this DI engine would benefit from a 0w40? Maybe that would give it some hope of staying in the 30wt range with the fuel dilution?

One thing's for certain, this oil got beat down. Resample at 4000 on the next fill and then extend from there as the UOA merits.

 

[Dogger37]

wallyuwl,

Just curious what oil are you running?

 

[JOD]

There's nothing wrong with any brand of oil which meets the specifications for your engine, and M1 is certainly not "bad" oil. I'm sure you'll get a lot of juvenile opinions based on "what some guy said" but the fact is, the only "bad oils" are likely to be found in the local Stop-And-Rob with a "QuikiMart" brand name...

That said, I wouldn't use an "energy conserving" oil for an engine shearing oil like this. I'd probably go with something like M1EP, Pennzoil's Ultra 5W30, Synpower 5-30...basically any name-brand 5W30.

To me, this seems much more like an "inappropriate interval issue" versus a poor choice of lubricant. You can check out this UOA here. This was with top up oil, filter swaps and a bypass installed, and the oil is still done. To Amsoil's credit, the oil is in much better shape than your oil, but it's still done at 14K, when it's designed to be run significantly longer. So, bottom line, this car is really hard on oil.

 

[Dogger37]

So would trying a 40w be of a benefit?

 

[JOD]

Originally Posted By: Dogger37
So would trying a 40w be of a benefit?


It's hard to say. I honestly don't know enough about that engine to know how it would tolerate a higher viscosity--so I'll let someone more informed make a suggestion there. It will certainly start off thicker and give you more headroom for shearing, but the question becomes "at what cost".

Some engines are quite tolerant of different viscosity oils, but I don't know if this is one of them.

 

[Thax]

This motor is still breaking in , however the wear numbers are extremely high particularly Iron. I would suspect the OLM is not calibrated correctly. I would suggest to shorten your oil change interval to at least 6k, personally I would go 5k and resample using the same oil to get a benchmark as to what your individual motor needs. I do not think this is M1 ow-30 fault , rather too long of a oci for this DI motor which is going to be hard on any motor oil.

 

[Dogger37]

And i've heard that German Castrol 0w30 is great oil. Any thoughts for this application?

 

[Thax]

German Castrol is a very good oil , however it isnt a good fit for your new Terrain. It is API SL and not Dexos1 approved which may cause warranty concerns should they be required. I would stick to a approved Dexos1 oil such ast Pennzoil Platinum , Mobil 1 etc. Any Dexos1 oil will protect that motor as long as it is used at a appropriate oci.

 

[chubbs1]

Just shorten your oil change intervals(OCI) and use a dexos1 5w30.

(M1, M1 EP, PP,QSUD Dexos1 licensed)

[Edge, Synpower, or Valvoline Durablend.dexos1 approved]


M1 0w30AFE is not dexos1 nor is Edge 0w30. Just Use one of the oils listed at the top and shorten your OCI.

Do not panic yet...use the right oil and you will be fine. Time will tell. It is early your vehicle is breaking in, you need to shorten the OCI's to flush it a little. Durablend is on sale with a M1EP filter for $21.00 at AutoZone this month do a couple of 3k mile oil changes then switch to whatever dexos1 oil you want to.

 

[Dogger37]

Thanks to everyone so far for their thoughts.

Looks like the plan will be to change the current oil at 5k, retest, and then refill with 5w30 Ex performance Mobil 1.

 

[rshaw125]

A modern engine that can't handle 10,000 miles oil changes on synthetic? I think it says more about the engine than the oil choice.

 

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
The 0w-30 is not available in an Extended Performance version.

I agree with them that Mobil 1 is not good oil.


Since the fuel is 3.5 and the FF is 315(shows serious fuel delution of the oil) and this a new GM engine that is known for higher metals(which does not translate into shorter engine life) and you went 12K on the first OC from the factory, I'm not surprised that iron is excessive. A 5K OC would have been better than 12K. After the engine is fully broken in higher OCIs will be fine.

As for Chevrofreaks comment, he has no basis for it other than than opinion. M1 oils are widely used here by BITOGERs with outstanding results.