Mobil 1 5w30, 4.7L Dodge Dakota, 5300 miles/history

[Gilberttribe]

2002 Dodge Dakota QC 4x4
EQUIPMENT MAKE: Dodge
EQUIPMENT MODEL: Dakota QC 4.7L V-8
FUEL TYPE: Gasoline (Unleaded)
OIL LAB: Oil Analyzers

code:

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Oil Brand Mopar Mobil1 Mobil1

Oil Weight 5w30 5w30 5w30

Oil Filter Mopar Mobil 1 Mobil 1

Sample Date 10/4/02 2/15/03 6/26/03

Miles Oil 1201 4140 5300

Miles Eng 1201 5509 10800



Iron 18 22 22

Chromium 0 4 3

Lead 0 2 1

Copper 10 6 7

Tin 1 0 0

Aluminum 3 8 6

Nickel 0 0 0

Silver 0 0 0

Silicon 16 21 20

Boron 34 138 234

Sodium 1 19 15

Magnesium 0 40 44

Calcium 1124 3038 2859

Barium 0 0 0

Phosph. 887 1055 1022

Zinc 1098 1108 1156

Moly. 0 73 107

Titanium 0 0 0

Vanadium 0 0 0

Potassium 0 0 0

Fuel 1.1
VIS@100C 8.9 10.13 10.41

Water 0.05 0 0

Soot N/A N/A N/A

Oxid 6.7 4.0 8.0

Nitr 5.7 3.0 5.0

TBN 6.9 7.37 7.89

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Probably 80 percent of the miles are highway.

Lab comments were that no corrective action is needed.

I realize I overkilled with analysis, but that was before I found this site. Even though the engine was new, the 1200 mile oil change appears as though it was a waste. I don't fully understand VIS, but the factory fill appears pretty thin. Could that have been due to the fuel present?

I plan to do the next change at 7500 miles on the oil and probably stick with that if the next analysis looks good. Once the wear metals stabilize, I may eventually switch to AMSoil for a comparison.

If I do oil changes every 7500 miles per manual, it seems as though I won't be using the synthetic oil to its fullest. However, I haven't seen any dino or blended oils that appear to hold up that long. Any thoughts?

What do you look for in an analysis report that would indicate sludge is building up? I'm just curious due to my experience with a previous vehicle.

Your comments would be appreciated.

 

[Cary]

I would say given the driving type that you engage in and the TBN and wear metals of the oil after 5000 miles you should be comfortable pushing the interval out to 7500, you may with analysis want to even try 10,000.

Cary

 

[Drew99GT]

High oxidation and solids may indicate you have sludge building. Also, a large presence of water or glycol in an oil sample would also contribute to sludging. Your sample looks excellent! Silicon may be a bit high, so check your hose clamps etc. on intake tubing.

 

[jason07-1zzfe]

Did Mobil increase the Mo and B AGAIN?

 

[buster]

quote:

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Did Mobil increase the Mo and B AGAIN?

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Hey, good catch, it looks like that. I think we need to keep in mind the margin of error with ALL of these lab reports. Not sure of ther percentages, but I'm sure they can be somewhat misleading.

 

[jeremiah2360]

Hey Gilbert, Good to see you here. Pretty good report. Things seem to be trending down or at least stabilizing. Your motor is still fairly new so they should improve.

Are you running stock air intake? They seem to be pretty efficient on Dakotas(as far as filtration). Like I said it could be from break in, you`ll know by 20k.

Thanks for backing me up a bit on the other board, I appreciate it.

See you around the boards.

 

[TooSlick]

I'd run the Amsoil 5w-30 in this engine - I think you can reduce the iron wear rate by at least 30%. Take a look at the two Amsoil analyses posted for this engine, with their 10w-30 and 10w-40. They have 10k and 12k miles respectively, and lower total iron levels than your analysis after 5000 miles.

TS

 

[JohnBrowning]

High!! I owned the exact same vechile for 2 years. I tried 5W30,10W30 and 15W50 Mobil-1. I found that my truck liked 15W50 in the warmer months and 10W30 in the winter. I live in Michigan and we have some preety serious winters here.

The 4.7 is a very stiff modern design and generates very low wear numbers. The highest number you will get with this engine will always be Iron the rest will always be very low single digit numbers.

I used Redline C+ATF wichis designed for just for Chrylser Tranny's and is ATF+4 compatable. Not only did it perform better then the OEM ATF+4 it was also cheaper!

 

[Gilberttribe]

Thank you for your replies.

Yes, I was running the stock air filter, but I changed to the AMSoil filter at 14k. I've checked for air leaks and have found none. jeremiah2360, are you using the stock filter?

I already have Mobil 1 10w30 on hand so I will likely use it this coming spring and summer and then I will likely try AMSoil. Since the engine is still fairly new, I expect the numbers (iron mainly) to decline a little. My next analysis at 17000 miles should be better for comparison.

JohnBrowning, thank you for mentioning the Redline transmission oil. I hadn't decided what to use in the transmission, so I will definitely look at Redline when I get to the that point.

 

[buster]

Gilberttribe, while M1 iron's numbers are not the greatest, and there are better oils available, keep in mind that it's not conclusive that Mobil 1 is showing higher Fe numbers and that realistically, all these numbers are not alarming at all. In fact, some even think UOA's are not a good method for comparing oils as Dave from Redline has stated. See what happens with another interval of M1 before jumping ship.

 

[jeremiah2360]

Gilbert I put the stock paper air filter back a while ago. I didn`t like the fit of the Amsoil filter and wasn`t sure of the B&G filter I have laying around. I may go with a Baldwin, they are nice, B&G is also supposedly better than K&N and Amsoil improved their fit.

I could complicate a cinder block.

I will probably end up throwing the B&G back in there after my next UOA, I think....

 

[jeremiah2360]

B&G!! I meant S&B