Redline 5w-40, 3k miles, 300whp 1.8T

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Hey Guys-

Here is an oil analysis from one of my customers. This car is an '01 VW GTI 1.8T, sporting one of my proprietary turbo kits(I'm a German car tuner by day). It puts out 300whp@25psi of boost(soon to be more with a recent head swap)
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. Car is driven aggressively on the street and at the drags. 35k total miles, 3k on sample. Any input is appreciated. Thanks to Terry@Dyson analysis for quick turnaround and friendly service.

Soot (St) 13
Oxidation (Oxi) 148.6 74.3%
Nitration (Nit) 35.5% 71
Sulfation (Sul)255

Metal
Iron (Fe) 7
Copper (Cu) 14
Chromium (Cr) 0
Aluminum (Al) 4
Lead (Pb) 1
Tin (Sn) 0
Silicon (Si) 22
Sodium (Na) 12
Potassium (K) 0
Molybdenum (Mo) 677
Phosphorus (P) 1334
Zinc (Zn) 1455
Calcium (Ca) 2752
Magnesium (Mg) 13


Physical
Water (W) N
Fuel (F) N
Antifreeze (A) N
Total Base Number (Tbn) 9
Viscosity At 100 C (V100) 15.8
 
Very impressive by any standards, but considering the fact that I'm sure this car is driven HARD, it's even more impressive! Lead wear of only 1ppm in a car that sees frequent full throttle blasts is simply awesome! And this oil didn't thin out at all!
 
Nice report!

A lead of 1PPM!
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Does this car have an oil cooler? Copper is a tad high but should come down next time.

--- Bror Jace
 
Looks good. Oxidation kinda' high for this milage. Is the silicon from the oil. Also kind of high. But - great report.
 
Yes "This is surely a distinguished" report. Makes me want to walk down the road a couple blocks and buy a few bottles of the stuff
 
quote:

Looking back over some other RL reports-we all may be forced into concluding that RL is a pretty decent oil.

I definitely think it's a decent oil. I'm not so sure I'm convinced it's better then Amsoil/M1 though. I think there racing oils is where Redline shines. Tooslick had a good thread on Redlines oils that made many good points.
 
Good report! Only draw back the miles on the oil are so very low. I would not have expected such high breakdown numbers (oxi and nit) - but TBN is kicka$$ so no acids yet.
 
Just a couple of extra data points- Stock oil capacity is 4.7qts. This car runs an oversize Napa Gold filter to increase capacity to 5.3qts. Oil temps have not exceeded 240degrees, using nothing but the factory installed water/oil cooler.

Quick question- this car runs 50% larger injectors and has a tendency to run rich at idle. Given it's use in NYC, would the richness contribute to the high oxidation/nitration? Or this something different? The car runs 11.5/1 A/F ratio on the dyno at high boost.

-Mike P
 
quote:

Originally posted by Last_Z:

quote:

Originally posted by pscholte:
Dies ist sicher ausgezeichnet!
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That is....?????
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Rick


Rick,

It means, "This is certainly excellent!"

Paul

[ August 17, 2003, 11:59 AM: Message edited by: pscholte ]
 
quote:

Originally posted by buster:

quote:

Looking back over some other RL reports-we all may be forced into concluding that RL is a pretty decent oil.

I definitely think it's a decent oil. I'm not so sure I'm convinced it's better then Amsoil/M1 though. I think there racing oils is where Redline shines. Tooslick had a good thread on Redlines oils that made many good points.


I'm curious. What is it that's good about the racing oils that doesn't apply to the street oils?
 
Race oils typical do not include any additives that are not needed to keep the parts seperated. You want to have as much lupricity as you can get and as high of a flash point as possable. Their is no need for a complex detergent system in a race oil. This leaves more room for higher percentage of esters and EP additives.

Some addiitives used in API aproved oils can cause increased plug fouling and detonation. This is not needed in a race oil so these additives are not put in them. It is not recomended that Redline Race oils be used in street driven vechiles. The non race oils have such a robust additive package that I can not see any need for more additives for a daily driver!
 
This is old but I wanted to bump it up. This is one awesome report from RL. I'm going back and looking at the old RL UOA's.
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Redline seems to show VERY low Fe numbers. Only Lead seems to be effected by it's chemistry and that might not be wear as said earlier.
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[ February 18, 2004, 08:21 PM: Message edited by: buster ]
 
quote:

buster these RL UOA's from Tyrolkid are really good and consistent. Hotted up turbo and driven hard makes them even more impressive IMO.

Exactly. I went back and pulled up some of the older RL UOA's and while Pb is sometimes high, Fe is sometimes very low. Lower then most oils I've seen. I still think for hard driving RL is the best choice.
 
I hope my UOA looks this good. I drive my Toyota like I just stole!!! I play with the Redline a couple times a day! The other day I was late for church! I took 2nd up to 60-65 MPH and was about to shift. I reliased that at 6000 RPM's I still had 2200 more to go before I hit the fuel cut off!!! I was at an impass "To shift or not to shift" that is the question! It can be tough haveing 3 more forward gears when you are haveing fun in second gear. I then was able to take the next corner in a nice drift with full power exit!!!

I drive 80MPH to work ever day for 20 miles each way or 40 miles round trip! I have had sevarl subzero starts! THe coldest to date was -18F. I am running 5W40 Redline!

P.S. I was on a deserted backroad and the lack of foliage due to winter temps allowed me to see 360 degrees for miles. It is all farm land in this area. I would never drive like this if people, trafic or wild life was around!
 
quote:

The other day I was late for church! I took 2nd up to 60-65 MPH and was about to shift... I then was able to take the next corner in a nice drift with full power exit!!!

It's safe to assume you got to church in time?
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