I'm looking at the possibility of installing a K&P cleanable filter.
Anyone here use one?
Experiences and opinions wanted, please.
Anyone here use one?
Experiences and opinions wanted, please.
K & P filter
- Thread starter old farmer
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yesssss, been using them for along time!! you will be pleased with the performance..and security from lousy paper filters
I looked into a similar filter for a Ford 5.4.When i asked if the filter used an ADBV they said no,this engine really needs one so i didnt pursue it any further.
Some of the bikes i owned also use one so i would ask them about it before buying if yours has a horizontally mounted spin on filter.
No critisism just a thought and question.It looks well made and seems to be a good unit just from looking at their website.
Some of the bikes i owned also use one so i would ask them about it before buying if yours has a horizontally mounted spin on filter.
No critisism just a thought and question.It looks well made and seems to be a good unit just from looking at their website.
the flow is soooooooo fast that a adbv is not important!! most all paper filters have cheap versions on the filters and they leak out oil...not to worry about the no adbv in k&p filters...my filters are up and down and side ways. when i change oil ,and this filter, there is always alot of oil that comes out of the filter when you unscrew it....cold starts in -20 temps are no noise whatsoever, pressure comes up instantly!! they also filter great and i know comfortably that no particles bigger then 35u will ever get into the engine..this filter filters down to 10u nominal and 35u absolute..paper filters worry me because of particles of paper and large part. get by all paper filters...
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and yet you run K&N air filters?
That's quite a contradiction.
But it is interesting to note that many so called 'paper' filters do at least a comparable job of filtering to your steel mesh filter.
But it is a beautiful piece.
That's quite a contradiction.
But it is interesting to note that many so called 'paper' filters do at least a comparable job of filtering to your steel mesh filter.
But it is a beautiful piece.
what does k&n have to do with the k&p oil filters??if you are talking about k&n maf issues ,old wives tale about oil getting on the maf the stuff you find on the internet is unbelieveable!!
talking about k&n air filters, all air paper filters leave a very fine dust in your throttle body..my experience with all my cars and race cars....love my k&n's been using them since 60's..
talking about k&n air filters, all air paper filters leave a very fine dust in your throttle body..my experience with all my cars and race cars....love my k&n's been using them since 60's..
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Whats the absolute rating of the stainless mesh? measured by who?
Basically, its not a filter. Its a screen similar to what many automatic transmissions have. Its pathetic. They shouldn't even call it a filter.
I've said it before and I'll say it again, "If you use a stainless mesh filter, you need to run a bypass also". Otherwise, you're not really filtering. Toilet paper or paper towel, will out filter any stainless mesh filter. Lousy paper filters are just so much better!
I'd love to see particle counts comparing the K&P to the the cheapest orange can or store brand filters out there. Anyone want to prove how bad it really is?
No ADBV means you have multiple/repeated no pressure cold starts. Get a preluber. Flow comes from your oil pump. "so fast" really means nothing.
BTW, if you really want great flow, don't even bother with a filter. Just change your oil as needed every few miles. In the world of long OCI's, OLM's, and extended intervals, a quality filter that does something is required.
Basically, its not a filter. Its a screen similar to what many automatic transmissions have. Its pathetic. They shouldn't even call it a filter.
I've said it before and I'll say it again, "If you use a stainless mesh filter, you need to run a bypass also". Otherwise, you're not really filtering. Toilet paper or paper towel, will out filter any stainless mesh filter. Lousy paper filters are just so much better!
I'd love to see particle counts comparing the K&P to the the cheapest orange can or store brand filters out there. Anyone want to prove how bad it really is?
No ADBV means you have multiple/repeated no pressure cold starts. Get a preluber. Flow comes from your oil pump. "so fast" really means nothing.
BTW, if you really want great flow, don't even bother with a filter. Just change your oil as needed every few miles. In the world of long OCI's, OLM's, and extended intervals, a quality filter that does something is required.
Hi,boxcartommie22
I notice you have a 2001 Lincoln with the 32 valve Intech V8.
I have one in my Lincoln Aviator, it's a great engine.
On mine, the filter is on an adapter bolted to the block and it makes the filter face forward and down at about the 8 o'clock position. It's always full of oil, but it should be when it's tilted down.
Before this I had a 1994 T-Bird with a 4.6 2 valve, and that filter screwed onto the side of the block. There was so much crowding in the area that I only ever did my own change once. Even the guys in the lube shop at the Ford dealer would say "oh no" when they saw the filter.
Has anyone else seen an oil analysis with this filter? I would really like to see a particle count vs a paper filter.
I notice you have a 2001 Lincoln with the 32 valve Intech V8.
I have one in my Lincoln Aviator, it's a great engine.
On mine, the filter is on an adapter bolted to the block and it makes the filter face forward and down at about the 8 o'clock position. It's always full of oil, but it should be when it's tilted down.
Before this I had a 1994 T-Bird with a 4.6 2 valve, and that filter screwed onto the side of the block. There was so much crowding in the area that I only ever did my own change once. Even the guys in the lube shop at the Ford dealer would say "oh no" when they saw the filter.
Has anyone else seen an oil analysis with this filter? I would really like to see a particle count vs a paper filter.
talk to dave at k&p he will supply all the info you need for these filters and they are not just a screen they are an steelmesh...so many people mis informed especially when they are using and try to retionalize the use of a 2-10 buck paper filter....and yes i love this 4.6 intech engine just purrs and is really fast..i get about 7 more hp when using this filter alot less engine drag..we also use this filter in our promods with 100lb boost..
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paper filter if it filters more(it doesn't) it must flow alot less( it does)..we can go on and on all day here...unbelieveable!!
Yeah, we can go on all day.
The paper filter media can flow a given amount and bypasses the rest. But, it catches more in the long run as oil circulates in the loop continuously.
The stainless mesh will NEVER filter as much as the paper media and doesn't really need a bypass valve because its nothing but a rock catcher.
IF YOU WANT TO PROVE IT, get some UOAs with particle counts. And, even if wear PPM is similar, a ferrographic analysis will need to take a look at the particles to see if the wear is severe or not. Easy enough to do for your debate.
We did have UOAs here with NO full flow filter at all. And, from what I remember, along with a UOA with a bypass only and no full flow(like the good ol' days). 10 years of UOAs in the UOA section is a good read.
And, food for thought. If you truly reduce 'wear' with no full flow, or reduce wear with minimal filtration(stainless mesh), obviously your oil flow is inadequate due to an issue(pump wear or OE under-engineering). Are you or K&P saying that the lubrication system in EVERY engine is borderline safe?
I'll stick with my full flow paper, blend, or synthetic media filter.
There is a theory (couple debates) on the full flow filter and whether or not it is a useless appendage. Obviously, you have so much faith in the K&P, you could have saved money and simply not run ANY filter by looping a remote oil filter adapter. There would also be no stainless mesh cleaning hassle either(which I have no faith in).
Just remember, there is a chain reaction of wear if you don't remove wear causing particles. Each time that particle loops around, it'll scratch a little more and more and...
Colleague just called. Need to do some project blasting. The viciously abrasive media that we're going to use is baking soda and might even have to go finer with baby powder. This is why I laugh at people who say, my oil/ATF doesn't feel gritty when I check the dipstick so it must still be good.
The paper filter media can flow a given amount and bypasses the rest. But, it catches more in the long run as oil circulates in the loop continuously.
The stainless mesh will NEVER filter as much as the paper media and doesn't really need a bypass valve because its nothing but a rock catcher.
IF YOU WANT TO PROVE IT, get some UOAs with particle counts. And, even if wear PPM is similar, a ferrographic analysis will need to take a look at the particles to see if the wear is severe or not. Easy enough to do for your debate.
We did have UOAs here with NO full flow filter at all. And, from what I remember, along with a UOA with a bypass only and no full flow(like the good ol' days). 10 years of UOAs in the UOA section is a good read.
And, food for thought. If you truly reduce 'wear' with no full flow, or reduce wear with minimal filtration(stainless mesh), obviously your oil flow is inadequate due to an issue(pump wear or OE under-engineering). Are you or K&P saying that the lubrication system in EVERY engine is borderline safe?
I'll stick with my full flow paper, blend, or synthetic media filter.
There is a theory (couple debates) on the full flow filter and whether or not it is a useless appendage. Obviously, you have so much faith in the K&P, you could have saved money and simply not run ANY filter by looping a remote oil filter adapter. There would also be no stainless mesh cleaning hassle either(which I have no faith in).
Just remember, there is a chain reaction of wear if you don't remove wear causing particles. Each time that particle loops around, it'll scratch a little more and more and...
Colleague just called. Need to do some project blasting. The viciously abrasive media that we're going to use is baking soda and might even have to go finer with baby powder. This is why I laugh at people who say, my oil/ATF doesn't feel gritty when I check the dipstick so it must still be good.
What the mind believes the eyes see...
Unbelievable is right.
Show us a UOA that proves the claims in a real street car with a normal change interval. That would be illuminating.
Unbelievable is right.
Show us a UOA that proves the claims in a real street car with a normal change interval. That would be illuminating.
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Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: Lurch
I use a K&N air filter in my car and like it. It gives my car noticeably more power ...
How so?
I was referring to a K&N air filter in my car. Perhaps I should stay on topic of oil filters to help avoid confusion, since this is in the oil filters category. Sorry about that. I don't want to be known as a thread hijacker.
Originally Posted By: Lurch
I use a K&N air filter in my car and like it. It gives my car noticeably more power ...
How so?
I was referring to a K&N air filter in my car. Perhaps I should stay on topic of oil filters to help avoid confusion, since this is in the oil filters category. Sorry about that. I don't want to be known as a thread hijacker.
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: Lurch
I use a K&N air filter in my car and like it. It gives my car noticeably more power ...
How so?
probably the same feeling of adding stickers to the car...each sticker ad's like 2-3hp more....
Originally Posted By: Lurch
I use a K&N air filter in my car and like it. It gives my car noticeably more power ...
How so?
probably the same feeling of adding stickers to the car...each sticker ad's like 2-3hp more....
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