Amsoil power foam cleaner
- Thread starter willix
- Start date
- Status
The map sensor is in the middle of the picture with the orange connector
[img:center]
[/img]
[img:center]
Well call me crazy, This is what I did, I drilled 3/32nds holes that will serve as ports for the de-carbon APF treatment across the top of the 270 degree plastic manifold runners being careful not to drill through.
Its only about 3/32nds thick. Then I took a 3/32nds steel stock in ground to a point and heated & melted threw the final amount of pastic material so no plastic would drop through in to the runner.
Now the foam chemical only needs 90 degrees to reach the head ports. I can do 1 cylinder at a time.
I have very short fine thread machine screws to fill the holes with a small amoumt of sealer.
I can now feed cleaner directly to the intake valves after warm up when running at temprature.
First I made a custom nozzle straw so the can can be upright.
[img:center]http://
[/img]
I have taped over the drilled ports temporary
[img:center]http://
[/img]
These are the screws that will turn right in making there own threads with a bit of sealant.
[img:center]http://
[/img]
There is clear tape over the other holes in the 8 runners that are hard to see.
[img:center]
[/img]
Just like this. its getting up to 32 degrees finally so I'l do it tommorrow.
[img:center]
[/img]
After going through the 8 ports I will get it back to operating tenp & remove spark plugs & fill up.
I want to thank Brad out of King George VA. for the 2 cans of APF, An Amsoil dealer out of VA.
Its only about 3/32nds thick. Then I took a 3/32nds steel stock in ground to a point and heated & melted threw the final amount of pastic material so no plastic would drop through in to the runner.
Now the foam chemical only needs 90 degrees to reach the head ports. I can do 1 cylinder at a time.
I have very short fine thread machine screws to fill the holes with a small amoumt of sealer.
I can now feed cleaner directly to the intake valves after warm up when running at temprature.
First I made a custom nozzle straw so the can can be upright.
[img:center]http://
I have taped over the drilled ports temporary
[img:center]http://
These are the screws that will turn right in making there own threads with a bit of sealant.
[img:center]http://
There is clear tape over the other holes in the 8 runners that are hard to see.
[img:center]
Just like this. its getting up to 32 degrees finally so I'l do it tommorrow.
[img:center]
After going through the 8 ports I will get it back to operating tenp & remove spark plugs & fill up.
I want to thank Brad out of King George VA. for the 2 cans of APF, An Amsoil dealer out of VA.
Last edited:
@Willix: Impressive, and I'm sure it's effective. As Vikas says, I don't think I'd have the guts to do that and know that it had it nailed leak-free.
Nice!
All the direct injection guys would like something like this to keep those valves clean.
Nice!
All the direct injection guys would like something like this to keep those valves clean.
How long will you let the Amsoil soak on the valves? I think the bottle says 10 minutes - will you let it go longer?
Originally Posted By: abs
How long will you let the Amsoil soak on the valves? I think the bottle says 10 minutes - will you let it go longer?
I'd follow their directions and stick with 10 minutes, worst case fire it up, let the engine cool, then reapply the product again. I cleaned up an IAC with it, and it did a bang up job in no time flat, but I was able to easily see what was going on.
IMO carbon deposits form in layers, not all at once, and probably have to be removed in layers. So it might take more than one application depending on how bad the build-up is.
How long will you let the Amsoil soak on the valves? I think the bottle says 10 minutes - will you let it go longer?
I'd follow their directions and stick with 10 minutes, worst case fire it up, let the engine cool, then reapply the product again. I cleaned up an IAC with it, and it did a bang up job in no time flat, but I was able to easily see what was going on.
IMO carbon deposits form in layers, not all at once, and probably have to be removed in layers. So it might take more than one application depending on how bad the build-up is.
We used to use the MOPAR foam cleaner on engines, and it worked very well. I'm guessing this is a similar product to the amosil cleaner. With any type of through the intake cleaner, you basically want to remove the boot from the throttle body (insert your hose or tube or sprayer or whatever in there to inject it) If it is a map system, you can leave that boot off while it's running. If it is a MAF system, that boot needs to be re-tattched so the engine can meter the air going into the engine. I'm guessing what they mean is do not just open your air box and spray into your intake duct because it will coat the MAF. There are some cars where you could get away with spray in the MAF, however some of them are in risk of damaging it. Depending on the car that MAF could be very expensive to replace.
I've done a thousand induction cleanings with both aerosol as well as air-pressure driven devices (It's pretty cooling owning your own BG Induction/Fuel injection cleaning machine)
I've done a thousand induction cleanings with both aerosol as well as air-pressure driven devices (It's pretty cooling owning your own BG Induction/Fuel injection cleaning machine)
I finally got around to the cleaning yesterday and it went well.
Doing 2 runners at a time first running @2100 rpm then shutdown & fill the runner til foam comes out the holes I drilled giving it a 10 minute soak.
I sure very little cleaner reached the plenum and it remains filthy.
Lots of smoke & it threw a out of idle range code that went away shortly after I was finished.
I'll fill the cylinders at another time. I didn't do this because of a consumption problem
Doing 2 runners at a time first running @2100 rpm then shutdown & fill the runner til foam comes out the holes I drilled giving it a 10 minute soak.
I sure very little cleaner reached the plenum and it remains filthy.
Lots of smoke & it threw a out of idle range code that went away shortly after I was finished.
I'll fill the cylinders at another time. I didn't do this because of a consumption problem
Last edited:
- Status