I think M1 5W-40 Turbo Diesel Truck would be a step down from what you are using. I used M1 5W-40 in my VW GTI 1.8T and it varnished sooner than some other oils I've used.
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M1 HM 10w30/40 Mix 7K OCI- 1997 Toyota LandCruiser
- Thread starter JasonBraswell
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Originally Posted By: JasonBraswell
Besides TBN, why does everyone want to use diesel oil? Are there not unintended consequences with running something that is not intended for your car?
We are talking about SM rated oils here, how is that not intended for your car?
Besides TBN, why does everyone want to use diesel oil? Are there not unintended consequences with running something that is not intended for your car?
We are talking about SM rated oils here, how is that not intended for your car?
Originally Posted By: lipadj46
Originally Posted By: JasonBraswell
Besides TBN, why does everyone want to use diesel oil? Are there not unintended consequences with running something that is not intended for your car?
We are talking about SM rated oils here, how is that not intended for your car?
"Dual-Rated", what's not to like? A lot of car oils carry light diesel specs, like Mobil Clean 5000, for instance.
Originally Posted By: JasonBraswell
Besides TBN, why does everyone want to use diesel oil? Are there not unintended consequences with running something that is not intended for your car?
We are talking about SM rated oils here, how is that not intended for your car?
"Dual-Rated", what's not to like? A lot of car oils carry light diesel specs, like Mobil Clean 5000, for instance.
JasonBraswell
Thread starter
I do not have a straight answer for not switching to diesel oil.
1) Mobil is not recommending a diesel oil for my truck on their list of recommend M1 oils (but I may contact them and ask why for curiosity). Also, the M1 HM is SL rated but not SM rated. I wonder why? They must be doing something that doesn't meet the new standards of SM
2) I just replaced my cat and O2 sensors so I really don't want to throw any curve balls and risk messing with these HIGHLY sensitive little buggers. I hate the check engine light!
3) I found this quote from this site where someone asked Valvoline this question re diesel oils in gas engines:
"Diesel oils are not the answer. With ever increasing limits on emissions, automobile manufacturers have tightened emission control systems on newer vehicles. This is one of several factors considered when the American Petroleum Institute (API) sets standards for engine oil. The current API standard is “SM,” which replaced the previous “SL” classification. Because phosphorus can poison a vehicle’s emission system, the level of zinc is lower for current engine oil. Because of this, many hands-on car enthusiasts and engine experts believe the lower levels of zinc in “SM” engine oil is causing excessive wear in older style push-rod and flat tappet engines. This is despite the fact that all new engine oil classifications are intended to be backward compatible, which in turn has resulted in the widely accepted belief that modern engine oil is not adequate to protect older engines.
Finally, I don't know why I need to give a reason when I have the perfect oil already. My engine is loving the JB Mix and I really have put the truck to test recently. I just don't see a real reason to switch. The above 5w40 UOA on this engine was not impressive.
1) Mobil is not recommending a diesel oil for my truck on their list of recommend M1 oils (but I may contact them and ask why for curiosity). Also, the M1 HM is SL rated but not SM rated. I wonder why? They must be doing something that doesn't meet the new standards of SM
2) I just replaced my cat and O2 sensors so I really don't want to throw any curve balls and risk messing with these HIGHLY sensitive little buggers. I hate the check engine light!
3) I found this quote from this site where someone asked Valvoline this question re diesel oils in gas engines:
"Diesel oils are not the answer. With ever increasing limits on emissions, automobile manufacturers have tightened emission control systems on newer vehicles. This is one of several factors considered when the American Petroleum Institute (API) sets standards for engine oil. The current API standard is “SM,” which replaced the previous “SL” classification. Because phosphorus can poison a vehicle’s emission system, the level of zinc is lower for current engine oil. Because of this, many hands-on car enthusiasts and engine experts believe the lower levels of zinc in “SM” engine oil is causing excessive wear in older style push-rod and flat tappet engines. This is despite the fact that all new engine oil classifications are intended to be backward compatible, which in turn has resulted in the widely accepted belief that modern engine oil is not adequate to protect older engines.
Finally, I don't know why I need to give a reason when I have the perfect oil already. My engine is loving the JB Mix and I really have put the truck to test recently. I just don't see a real reason to switch. The above 5w40 UOA on this engine was not impressive.
Originally Posted By: JasonBraswell
The above 5w40 UOA on this engine was not impressive.
How was it not impressive? Looks fine especially if he does have a coolant leak. If you look at the specs of M1 10w40 HM and 5w40 TDT they are pretty similar with the 5w40 having slightly (~100ppm) higher ZDDP and I assume the 5w40 is going to flow better at lower temps but they look pretty much the same. I assume the 10w40 HM could be considered a HDEO (I have not seen the TBN # though). If you like the 10w40 stick with it but don't think there is anything bad about using a modern SM rated HDEO. Actually your 10w40 is SL correct and the 5w40 is SM?
The above 5w40 UOA on this engine was not impressive.
How was it not impressive? Looks fine especially if he does have a coolant leak. If you look at the specs of M1 10w40 HM and 5w40 TDT they are pretty similar with the 5w40 having slightly (~100ppm) higher ZDDP and I assume the 5w40 is going to flow better at lower temps but they look pretty much the same. I assume the 10w40 HM could be considered a HDEO (I have not seen the TBN # though). If you like the 10w40 stick with it but don't think there is anything bad about using a modern SM rated HDEO. Actually your 10w40 is SL correct and the 5w40 is SM?
JasonBraswell
Thread starter
Keep in mind that I am not using a 10w40. I am mixing 10w40 with 10w30. The oil in the UOA is 3 to 1, but now I am running 50/50. The virgin TBN is 8 with both oils from what I know at the motoroilevaluator site. Next, the 5w40 does not specify a pour point whereas the M1 HM's pour at -39 and -54 respectivly. But, I am not sure this 5w40 flows better at cold temp (although it makes since that a 5w would. Did you compare the cS @ 40C? My oil blend is in the 80's and the 5w40 is 100+.
Re ZDDP's, I read in Bob's awesome front page article: "The research shows that 0.03 is all that is needed and has the same function as higher levels. The only reason to have more is because your engine is consuming the ZDDP secondary to borderline lubrication from oil alone. And lastly, too much can be corrosive itself and has shown in some tests to actually increase wear.
Re ZDDP's, I read in Bob's awesome front page article: "The research shows that 0.03 is all that is needed and has the same function as higher levels. The only reason to have more is because your engine is consuming the ZDDP secondary to borderline lubrication from oil alone. And lastly, too much can be corrosive itself and has shown in some tests to actually increase wear.
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