Torque wrench for oil change - necessary or not?

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I have recently started doing my own oil changes and noticed that the owners manual for my Accord states that the drain bolt on my 4 cylinder should be tightened to 33 lb/ft. If I had a 6 cylinder it would be 29 lb/ft.

Do you use a torque wrench for oil changes? How important is this really?

Anyone able to recommend a inexpensive torque wrench for basic auto maintenance and repairs?

Amazon has a lot of choices starting at less than $30, but I know too little about this stuff to make a educated decision.
 
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In some 40 years of changing my own oil on all makes of vehicles including now two Hondas, I've never used a torque wrench on the drain plug/bolt. I generally just snug the bolt to feel. Never overtorqued the plug in all those years, such that I ever had an issue. I do check for leaks when I'm done just to make sure it's tight. When watching them do it at the dealership, I don't think I've seen them use one either.

A torque wrench is however, a good tool to have in your tool box. I'll let others address what kind/type. I would generally say it's not a neccessity for the oil drain plug.
 
I use an old "German" term my grandpa taught me. . . gudensnug. No torque wrench is required for that.
 
I never have used one, and I have been a cumpulsive ''every 3 mounths'' since 1992.

Check some of the threads here on torque wrenches. There is plenty of conflicting advice. I think a beam style is best for occasional DIY use. They are cheap, rugged, and aren't as quick to get out of calibration.
 
Generally i don't use one but i do on Aluminum pans or bike engine cases.
Sometimes these things have unusual sizes and are torqued to higher values,if the worst does happen then its usually a PITA to repair.In the case of your Honda i would check the torque value and make sure that is ft not nm and use a torque wrench.
 
I only use a torque wrench on critical areas, like head bolts. I've never used one on the drain bolt, I just use the same old German technique that Nyquist uses :)

And 33 foot pounds seems way too tight, I dunno.
 
Been changing oil since the 1970's never used a torque wrench for an oil change. I do use one for lug nuts when I rotate my tires though. Or for engine work like a head swap or something along those lines.
 
Depends on the car.

Does that honda use a crush washer that is one time use only? If so then I would probably torque it.

If it is a reusable drain plug like my GM's and Fords, then I just use a regular ratchet, and turn it a quarter turn past hand tight. Until it feels right.

I think the OEM wants to make sure that mechanics in their shops aren't using the impact on the drain bolt.

If you have a funny oil cartridge with O rings, then always torque this. I don't torque my GM ecotec oil cartridge but this is a different animal than many of the import setups (easier).
 
IMO, a torque wrench isn't needed for the oil plug. "Gudensnug" is the way to go. A torque wrench does have it's uses though as others have mentioned. Headbolts, intake, tranny pan bolts, etc. If you do purchase one, make sure the torque range is proper for the job your doing.
 
I would never suggest that someone ingore information in their owners manual but I have never in my life seen anyone use a torque wrench on a oil pan (drain)nut. Now when you start talking intake, flywheel, rods, heads and things like that.. yeah.
 
What everyone else said. I have a torque wrench readily available in the tool chest but never used it on a drain plug and never had one come loose or get over tightened. Just do it by feel.
 
In 50 plus years of changing oil from a 1950 Studabaker Champ to Corvetts I've never used a torque wrench to tighten the drain plug.

Gudensnug seems about right.
 
Ive done both. When there is a crush washer, I torque. Also on oil filter cannisters made of Aluminum, I tend to torque, even though the threads are likely steel. I have the tool, why not use it and make sure it is right?

On reusable plugs, I do often just go "wrist tight" and have never had an issue or thought anything wrong with it...
 
Unless you have a really well-calibrated arm, I view the torque wrench as mandatory for oil pans with threads that strip easily (Honda and Volkswagen--I'm looking at you).

On my Dodge and Buick, I just tighten until it feels snug.
 
Problem is some pan plugs spec 13 LB FT and some around 30 or so.

So it's good to know what any vehicle might require. More wrist tight for the lower end and more arm tight on the higher end.
 
i use a torque wrench. only becuase i have one. if i didn't have one, i'd be comfortable using an 8" length ratchet tightened "snug".
 
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