I do not know if it would be bad. Its only another 700 or so miles. But I also do not know if it would be worthwhile. You did get your money's worth out of this fill.

Looks to me like the OP got his money's worth, and ended up right where he should.

Wear looks reasonable for 10k miles; TBN just about used up; contaminants not outrageous (silicon conversation acknowledged).

I'd say 10k miles is spot on, if he can repeat with some consistency.

The "best" approach would be to repeat the cycle several times; same brand/vis of oil, same filters, same duration, etc. Track the ranges and trends; see if the results can statistically become viable. If so, then he's actually used his noodle, balancing his wallet and his vehicle maintenance plan to the perfect point.

Unfortunately, as a BITOGer, he'll end up tinkering with success, as our natural tendency is to mess with what works, because we can't leave well enough alone ...

I think AJ was referring to the comment above saying,
I don't know about that but, though I've never done a UOA with the MC syn blend, I've used the 5W20 on a 01 Civic since new and considered it a very good oil. Your report goes a long way towards confirming my belief.

It may (or may not) be "just a conventional" IDK, but it's a darn good dino and seems to live up to the only standard conventional dino that uses the term syn-blend right on the bottle. Add to that, the great everyday price at Wally, and you have a great value. Just wish they would make jugs in weights other than the 5w20.

I do agree with others that 10k seems to be the sweet spot for your vehicle and MC, at the great value, not much to be gained by pushing it. Thanks for posting.

I haven't been able to get my last report posted in it's entirety. Otherwise the board could see 4 UOA's with this combo at increasing intervals. Wear numbers are very similar to the one above. Alas, the more I read here the more tempted I am to stick M1 EP and go 15-20k. Yes, maybe what I'm doing now is a good value. Well, if the oil is twice the price (ie M1 EP) and so is the interval (20k vs 10k)....then less time I spend on maintenance without any additional risk to the motor? And whatever benefit, real or otherwise, running a full syn would bring to the table would also be realized. Assuming I go that route, what viscosity? Swap filter halfway through the interval? Timewise, 20k would be around 16 months.

Napa Gold or Purolator Pure One oil filter, PP 10w-30 for no more than 10k miles. UOA it on after the second OCI.

Try Terry Dyson for a UOA. The depth of his analysis will really tell you what that oil and your engine is doing. Good luck.

Not interested in using a synthetic for only 10k. My curiosity is not that great. I am interested in not changing oil as much and not wasting $$$$. So the best value syn for 15k or 20k OCI? M1 ep 5w30? 0w40? Can someone tell me specifically what Dyson provides that Blackstone doesn't and for how much? Thanks.

For the battery of tests that Terry performs, his service is a bargain. The same testing (which some could not be done) from Blackstone, the cost would be much more. He's $100 now. Very keen insight (not the best term) "into" what's going on. He's pulled quite a few surprises on me where he's said something ..almost intuitively (that is, appearing to see something he couldn't quite articulate at the moment) and have it turn up later on. He pondered that a fuel reading in Bruce's 0w-10 might not be fuel ..but some aromatic in the blend. It later disappeared from the next analysis confirming his suspicion. Other tells on fuel were not present.

I could not afford to use him on this round with my 0w-10 testing, but it was basically a rehash of previous data. I'll save for the extended drain (7-10k) testing.

You can get your scale of economy. As (I think) I said (might not have) one year is doable in your sleep. 16-18 months would be required for you to reach your 20k goal ..or so I reason. I think it will require an oil with a stout TBN at the onset.

Thanks for the reply, Gary. So, which OTC synthetics for 20K in this app?

Does that oil go through a hose any place? I ask because my 1986 Toyota 4Runner came from the factory with silicone house's under the hood. I think they only did it that year because i never came across another one quite like it! Mine was built at the Landcrusier plant though when they had a fire in the plant that was originally set up to build the 4Runner. Once they fixed the plant they went back to making them their. I noticed that mine had different brake rotor's, different hub's and bearings and slightly different axle's etc.....Even my local Toyota dealership would get the wrong parts for me unless I gave them the date of manufacture and the vin. Mine even had different wells right patern but completely different wells my wheels where true magnesium wheels!Even some of the under hood parts where different. I always got the wrong parts from dealerships and parts stores on a lot of common items unless I took the date and vin with me.

It was a Toyota Regional Service rep that told me that mine had been built at the Landcruiser plant after production started and a fire broke out in the plant.... So they basicly took all the production parts they had that where good then took parts from other markets to finsih hand building these ones until they got the plant back up.

So if Toyota is passing this oil through a silicone hose some place it wouldeasily pick up silicone like made. Normaly in Domestic vechiles Police models like Interceptors will use silicone hose's!

For OTC ..I'd probably go with M1 in the EP line. Their 15k rhetoric has some fudge factor in it. I'd say some HDEO synth, but you'll never find it in a lower viscosity. I would probably just go one year at first and do another UOA.

So, M1 EP 0w40? Vehicle sleeps in a garage and lives around Dallas. Have several roadtrips planned next year and would like to try a full syn. This website is addicting.

Theophile,

There is no Mobil 0W-40 EP. Mobil 0W-40 is a long drain oil, however yhat predates the EP line.

It has GM, Porsche, MB & BMW long drain approvals and it shears to a high (~12 cst) 30 weight oil by design, usually within 3k miles. It may still be thick for your vehicle. If so Mobil1 5W-30 EP/PureOne would be my recommended OTC long-drain oil/oil filter combo.

Mobil1 EP has been tested to 15k in city driving and MAY handle 17-18k of highway driving. Start with a 12.5k OCI and go from there.

Gary

Thanks for the clarification. I think I will stick with the grade spec'd for the vehicle, 5w30. Who typically sells the Pure One's?

Advance Auto I believe. Pepboys too.

FWIW I am also running the Mobil 1 EP 5w30 in my wifes truck because she drives a lot of miles and I just don't feel like changing the oil every 2 months. I am going to do a 12.5k/6month run but then I am going to switch to Amsoil because she drives about 25k a year...so I am going to run Amsoil SSO and EAO filter for a year! I think your truck would be fine running Mobil 1 EP for a whole year judging by the amount of miles you drive...I would also run the Mobil 1 ep filter that is also rated for 15k OCI's. I get a 5qt jug at wally world for $26 and the filter for $12 at autozone...total $76 for a year. 5qts of SSO is going to cost me $50 and $18 for the filter at a local auto parts store that is an Amsoil dealer...total $68 for a year. Could I save money buy running PP and pureone filter? Absolutely...but not having to crawl under her truck every 2 or 3 months is priceless.