I have been useing the honda filter made by fram the A02 and as far as I can tell it is supperior to other oil filters I have used, even (gasp) wix. Not only does it use a better gasket design, thats the same as a denso oil filter, It just seems to filter better. I know people say you cant judge by the color of the oil but when I use a fram made honda filter the oil looks like the day I put it in after 3k. With the wix and the same oil it looks compleatly different. I recently changed the oil for my bro in his subaru and noticed when I went to the dealer to buy the filter that it was the same fram made filter that honda sells except it had a cheaper anti drain back valve. Probably because the filter on his subaru is facing down instead of sideways. I love the filter design and as far as I can tell it is filtering the oil perfectly. Maybe I've been wrong all along thinking that you need metal endcaps to have a good filter.
Im done hearing that fram sucks!
- Thread starter ryland
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Nothing wrong with Fram filters... Dad has been using them for years without issues. His current '94 Dodge Caravan has over 300K KM (180K Miles) with nothing but the cheapest dino oil and the cheapest Fram filter he can find changed at 10K KM (6K miles) and although the car burns a tad of oil it runs great and passes the emission test every 2 years.
I think we are just anal on this board and want the absolute best and IMO Fram just isn't the best value when you have other great filter companies out there like Wix/Napa/Purolator etc. which give you a better built filter for the money!
Nothing wrong with Frams filtering ability though IMO!
I think we are just anal on this board and want the absolute best and IMO Fram just isn't the best value when you have other great filter companies out there like Wix/Napa/Purolator etc. which give you a better built filter for the money!
Nothing wrong with Frams filtering ability though IMO!
Originally Posted By: StevieC
I think we are just anal on this board and want the absolute best and IMO Fram just isn't the best value when you have other great filter companies out there like Wix/Napa/Purolator etc. which give you a better built filter for the money!
Nothing wrong with Frams filtering ability though IMO!
Thats kind of my whole point. Who says that wix is "better built" true it looks more substatial when you open it up but who's to say that the better build is more effective at filtering the oil? Maybe it filters it better but reduces the flow. Maybe it doesent even really filter better? I have no idea. What gets to me is the way people say on this site that if you use a fram your engine is basicly going to explode. Going back to build quality, I had an old international truck that was built extreamly well. Basicly bullet proof with lots of steel everywhere and at a pretty thick gauge I might add. That dosent mean that it was more reliable or safer or more efficiant that my new truck that is mostly plastic and very thin metal. You see what Im saying??
I think we are just anal on this board and want the absolute best and IMO Fram just isn't the best value when you have other great filter companies out there like Wix/Napa/Purolator etc. which give you a better built filter for the money!
Nothing wrong with Frams filtering ability though IMO!
Thats kind of my whole point. Who says that wix is "better built" true it looks more substatial when you open it up but who's to say that the better build is more effective at filtering the oil? Maybe it filters it better but reduces the flow. Maybe it doesent even really filter better? I have no idea. What gets to me is the way people say on this site that if you use a fram your engine is basicly going to explode. Going back to build quality, I had an old international truck that was built extreamly well. Basicly bullet proof with lots of steel everywhere and at a pretty thick gauge I might add. That dosent mean that it was more reliable or safer or more efficiant that my new truck that is mostly plastic and very thin metal. You see what Im saying??
If you read my whole post, I said people here are "Anal" so to most users on the board Metal-End Caps, better Micron ratings, and better media is better and somehow provides better protection in their minds over Frams cardboard end-caps etc.
I also said that for the money you seem to get more for your money from companies like Wix.
I stood up for Fram with my dads van as proof that there is nothing wrong with the filters.
I also said that for the money you seem to get more for your money from companies like Wix.
I stood up for Fram with my dads van as proof that there is nothing wrong with the filters.
Originally Posted By: tpitcher
Quite the statements.
Is it the same as the Fram Orange Can?
Pictures of the oil to support your claim please.
Not sure if the subaru filter is the same as the orange can, it has the same black antidrainback valve. The Honda is not the same it has a orange silicone ADBV. Both filters have the better gasket though.
I will take some pics of my current oil when I get a chance. 3k on the current fill right now and still looks very clean like the day it went in.
Quite the statements.
Is it the same as the Fram Orange Can?
Pictures of the oil to support your claim please.
Not sure if the subaru filter is the same as the orange can, it has the same black antidrainback valve. The Honda is not the same it has a orange silicone ADBV. Both filters have the better gasket though.
I will take some pics of my current oil when I get a chance. 3k on the current fill right now and still looks very clean like the day it went in.
Im not argueing with you I just am trying to say that its hard to say whats "better".
Originally Posted By: ryland
Im not argueing with you I just am trying to say that its hard to say whats "better".
I agree on that
No two applications are the same so who can really say for sure that one filter is the best over another ?!?
I choose EAO's because I do extended OCI's and it has better filtration than most filters out there and is built like a tank inside. It also helps to stop lifter ticking in my engine, otherwise I would use the cheapest filter that gets the job done to my expectations.
FWIW: I also use Fram on my spare car which is a '95 Neon for 10K KM (6K Mile) Dino changes and it runs fine...
Im not argueing with you I just am trying to say that its hard to say whats "better".
I agree on that
No two applications are the same so who can really say for sure that one filter is the best over another ?!?
I choose EAO's because I do extended OCI's and it has better filtration than most filters out there and is built like a tank inside. It also helps to stop lifter ticking in my engine, otherwise I would use the cheapest filter that gets the job done to my expectations.
FWIW: I also use Fram on my spare car which is a '95 Neon for 10K KM (6K Mile) Dino changes and it runs fine...
Quote:
better Micron ratings, and better media is better
Isn't it?
better Micron ratings, and better media is better
Isn't it?
Originally Posted By: simple_gifts
Quote:
better Micron ratings, and better media is better
Isn't it?
Might mean you're bypassing the filter altogether on cold starts and for a longer time period, and if the bypass is on the bottom it can wash contaminants off the media. As an Engineer there is nothing wrong with fibreboard end caps - the core tube provides the structure. Gee, the media element is 200-400 sq in of "paper" - should that be metal too? I have good luck with the Honeywell Subaru oem service filter. My Wix (MAZDA RX8 spec) leaked at the gasket and had to be removed. As for filtering efficacy, need UOA and P-counts for that. prob BOSCH/Purolator or M1 with Filtec synthetic media would out class it but with no data, just a guess.
Quote:
better Micron ratings, and better media is better
Isn't it?
Might mean you're bypassing the filter altogether on cold starts and for a longer time period, and if the bypass is on the bottom it can wash contaminants off the media. As an Engineer there is nothing wrong with fibreboard end caps - the core tube provides the structure. Gee, the media element is 200-400 sq in of "paper" - should that be metal too? I have good luck with the Honeywell Subaru oem service filter. My Wix (MAZDA RX8 spec) leaked at the gasket and had to be removed. As for filtering efficacy, need UOA and P-counts for that. prob BOSCH/Purolator or M1 with Filtec synthetic media would out class it but with no data, just a guess.
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The Honda-spec Fram isn't a bad filter. It happens to be a mediocre, IMO, filter at a premium filter price point.
It will get the job done just fine. I ran a free plain-Jane Fram for 7500 miles before without problems. But for the price, I'd much rather buy a different filter.
It will get the job done just fine. I ran a free plain-Jane Fram for 7500 miles before without problems. But for the price, I'd much rather buy a different filter.
and Honda recommends change the oil filter every other time. If your vehicle is equipped with the oil-life monitor, the OEM honda filter will be good for 15,000+ miles.
Originally Posted By: sciphi
The Honda-spec Fram isn't a bad filter. It happens to be a mediocre, IMO, filter at a premium filter price point.
It will get the job done just fine. I ran a free plain-Jane Fram for 7500 miles before without problems. But for the price, I'd much rather buy a different filter.
+1 Yep! The Honda spec Fram is not really the same as the Fram Extra Guard, often affectionately referred to as the "Orange can of Death" by some here on BITOG. It's hyperbole, often used to get a rise, usually works.
Many examples if you read Fram threads.
The Honda is likely closer in spec to the Fram Tough Guard with a silicone ADBV. It may have more media, but they both have the cardboard endcaps, not favored by some
As pointed out by sciphi, for the price (semi premium)of the filter, there are filters like Pure One for the same or less money(on special, or amazon). It also has metal endcaps which many including myself prefer, and a 99% efficiency rating.
But, if you are satisfied with the performance of the filter that is all that's important. And, it is a Honda.
All that said, I doubt you have heard the last of "Fram sucks". Just don't read it.
The Honda-spec Fram isn't a bad filter. It happens to be a mediocre, IMO, filter at a premium filter price point.
It will get the job done just fine. I ran a free plain-Jane Fram for 7500 miles before without problems. But for the price, I'd much rather buy a different filter.
+1 Yep! The Honda spec Fram is not really the same as the Fram Extra Guard, often affectionately referred to as the "Orange can of Death" by some here on BITOG. It's hyperbole, often used to get a rise, usually works.
The Honda is likely closer in spec to the Fram Tough Guard with a silicone ADBV. It may have more media, but they both have the cardboard endcaps, not favored by some
As pointed out by sciphi, for the price (semi premium)of the filter, there are filters like Pure One for the same or less money(on special, or amazon). It also has metal endcaps which many including myself prefer, and a 99% efficiency rating.
But, if you are satisfied with the performance of the filter that is all that's important. And, it is a Honda.
All that said, I doubt you have heard the last of "Fram sucks". Just don't read it.
I have a Fram T.G. in my Toyota now.
^ Last change on my Tacoma, took off a TG(5k) and replaced it with a ST. But, the TG is now in Pure One price territory, or more.
I have used ST as well.
Why would I pay fram the same $ for a flimsily constructed filter when I can have a better built one instead???
Originally Posted By: ekpolk
Why would I pay fram the same $ for a flimsily constructed filter when I can have a better built one instead???
+1 and possibly for less money.
Why would I pay fram the same $ for a flimsily constructed filter when I can have a better built one instead???
+1 and possibly for less money.
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