Royal Purple

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I just got back from Pep Boys and saw they were selling Royal Purple Motorcycle oil. Both the 10W40 and teh 20W50 were....

......hold your breath......


$16.99 a Quart!!!!


You gotta be kidding me. Who is going to buy that stuff???!!!
 
What I should have asked was....

What makes it so special?

Heck, we can get Amsoil for about $12 a quart and M1 R4T for $9 a quart.
 
SJ levels of ZDDP?

And people feel better about "motorcycle oil".

Personally, Rotella T has always worked well for me, but this summer I'm trying Forumula Shell and it's working great so far (no clutch slip).
 
I know Rotella has a decent reputation for anti-foaming, but...

I would trust a purpose made motorcycle oil for a high revving crotch rocket application.

Seriously, my nephew's Yamaha R6 only needs 2 quarts to do a change. A Motorcycle oil is also designed with a wet clutch in mind. Sounds good at 16,000 RPMs.

I don't see why people wouldn't take advantage of purpose made bike oil instead of cheaping out and buying diesel oil. Bikes don't need that much oil and I've seen certain engines last TWICE as long when synthetic bike oils were used instead of whatever was on sale.

Again, I'm not knocking on Rotella, I like it and used the 5w40 quite a few times in other applications.

Even two quarts of the Royal Purple cost less than some dealer oil changes with inferior fluids.
 
We know how well Royal Purple does under the timken test, which is more of a test for gear oils. Many motorcycle transmissions are lubricated by the engine oil. That would include gears.

I wouldn't dismiss it just because of price when you have never used it.

It's called judging a book by the cover, and you almost always loose.
 
Originally Posted By: SnakeOil
We know how well Royal Purple does under the timken test, which is more of a test for gear oils. Many motorcycle transmissions are lubricated by the engine oil. That would include gears.

I wouldn't dismiss it just because of price when you have never used it.

It's called judging a book by the cover, and you almost always loose.




Except....it is probably $10 a quart oil with a $7 book cover!!!!

LOL.gif
 
Originally Posted By: SnakeOil
We know how well Royal Purple does under the timken test, which is more of a test for gear oils. Many motorcycle transmissions are lubricated by the engine oil. That would include gears.

I wouldn't dismiss it just because of price when you have never used it.

It's called judging a book by the cover, and you almost always loose.


Well since it has the lowest viscosity index of all the 20w50 mc oils and costs more I think it is a rip off. the RP 20w50 VI is 138 and Brad Penn dino is 140 at $5/qt. WHile Mobil1 & Redline and Amsoil are in the 150's. So who wants a MC oil that won't stay in grade. You might as well go for Mobil1 15w50 at WM which has been selling for $15 for 5 quarts in some WM's on closeout. It will shear to a 40w just like RP for much less money.
 
Originally Posted By: SnakeOil

Bikes don't need that much oil and I've seen certain engines last TWICE as long when synthetic bike oils were used instead of whatever was on sale.




My VTX take 4 quarts...my CBR F4i took 4 quarts...so 68 bucks for oil and another 12 for a filter....80 bucks for an oil change?
crazy2.gif



I'll go with the 5W40 Rotella....I saw the same thing at Peop Boys and almost fell over.......I do have a gallon of RP 15W 40 that I got on clearance for 10 bucks at Auto Zone and probably will try that in a few changes probably



17 dollars for a quart of oil....all I can picture is that ad for Miller High Life with the delivery guy pulling all the beer back saying "11 dollars for a hamburger...you must be out of your mind!"


He should show up at Pep Boys and do the same thing!




Goose
34.gif
 
Originally Posted By: PT1
the RP 20w50 VI is 138 and Brad Penn dino is 140 at $5/qt. WHile Mobil1 & Redline and Amsoil are in the 150's. So who wants a MC oil that won't stay in grade.


1. We don't know it will shear because nobody on here has used it.

2. Perhaps it doesn't contain any VII's and the Bran, M1, Redline, and Amsoil do. If I'm wrong I'm wrong, but that would explain the lower VI. I personally don't care about cold starting on a bike, because I warm them up real well before I romp on them.

3. This is all speculation. I searched and didn't see a VOA or UOA. Who's to say that this isn't the best oil ever? Perhaps it cures cancer and prevents AIDS if you sprinkle it on Cherios.

4. If you don't like Royal Purple, FINE! Just don't put down a product that you have never used and don't know anyone else has used. Thats one major issue I have with people on here. Look at all the unjustified Castrol Edge bashing based on nothing but the price tag.
 
My Virago takes 3.3 quarts, requiring the purchase of 4. I was buying Mobil 1 4T (for around $12 a quart at my local cycle shop) but wised up and switched to Mobil 1 15W-50. None of the department stores around here carry ANY motorcycle oil, and only found Valvoline MC oil at AutoZone, which the bike didn't seem to like. The shifter rebelled, so I dumped it early.

Mobil 1 is working fine so far (about 900 miles). There's been no change in performance, clutch or shift feel from 4T.
 
Originally Posted By: SnakeOil


I don't see why people wouldn't take advantage of purpose made bike oil instead of cheaping out and buying diesel oil. Bikes don't need that much oil and I've seen certain engines last TWICE as long when synthetic bike oils were used instead of whatever was on sale.



Because all of the Rotella uoa's on here and elsewhere have proven it to be a worthwhile oil to run, cruiser or sportbike.

Im not bashing Motorcycle specific oil like you aren't bashing rotella or other diesel oils. I used to run mx4t, then read about people running hdeo (which diesles run and people just associate it to diesels since that is what they run and just call it diesel oil) and tried it and liked how it performed and was way cheaper. If you are changing out frequently why pay 3 times as much for the same performance?
 
Originally Posted By: SnakeOil
I just worry about foam and wet clutches. A UOA doesn't tell you much about the clutch.


Wet clutches are designed to work with any NON-Energy Conserving oil that doesn't contain high amounts of moly. The VIs in the Energy conserving oils are what cause the clutches to slip. There have been literally dozens of posts about this topic and still people post erroneous information.

So... don't use any oil that has the Energy Conserving "sunburst" and avoid oils high in moly like Redline. Just look at the UOAs and VOAs to see which oils are high in moly. Of course if your bike doesn't have a wet clutch like most Ducatis and some HDs, then no problem. BTW, Rotella has very little moly and is NOT Energy Conserving, so it will not cause clutch slippage. Do your research before you make those kind of statements or look like a newbie.
 
Purpose built motorcycle lubes usually contain friction modifiers to assist with clutch engaugement. It limits the amount of slip before it "grabs" and therefore quickens engaugement and reduces heat. I would not expect an oil created for passenger cars and heavy duty trucks to contain these compounds.

P.S. Moly isn't the only AW additive out there. I'm sure you know that. If there isn't alot of moly, then there is just something else.

Do your research before you make those kind of statements or look like a newbie.
 
Originally Posted By: SnakeOil
Originally Posted By: PT1
the RP 20w50 VI is 138 and Brad Penn dino is 140 at $5/qt. WHile Mobil1 & Redline and Amsoil are in the 150's. So who wants a MC oil that won't stay in grade.


1. We don't know it will shear because nobody on here has used it.

2. Perhaps it doesn't contain any VII's and the Bran, M1, Redline, and Amsoil do. If I'm wrong I'm wrong, but that would explain the lower VI. I personally don't care about cold starting on a bike, because I warm them up real well before I romp on them.

3. This is all speculation. I searched and didn't see a VOA or UOA. Who's to say that this isn't the best oil ever? Perhaps it cures cancer and prevents AIDS if you sprinkle it on Cherios.

4. If you don't like Royal Purple, FINE! Just don't put down a product that you have never used and don't know anyone else has used. Thats one major issue I have with people on here. Look at all the unjustified Castrol Edge bashing based on nothing but the price tag.


Royal purple has a garbage reputation.......why spend more for and oil that has the absolute worst specs? Why even bother? I'd rather do a VOA on baby oil.
 
Originally Posted By: PT1

Royal purple has a garbage reputation.......why spend more for and oil that has the absolute worst specs? Why even bother? I'd rather do a VOA on baby oil.


Any data on Royal Purple has a garbage reputation? I mean real data and not just "I heard on the grapevine while reading the VOA of baby oil."
 
Originally Posted By: azsynthetic
Originally Posted By: PT1

Royal purple has a garbage reputation.......why spend more for and oil that has the absolute worst specs? Why even bother? I'd rather do a VOA on baby oil.


Any data on Royal Purple has a garbage reputation? I mean real data and not just "I heard on the grapevine while reading the VOA of baby oil."


Just compare the viscosity index and price against the competition. But today that is not good enough....
LOL.gif

There are lots of people on MC forums who tried it and didn't like it compared to other oils. Heck Brad Penn is 1/3 the price and has a better VI and is dino...
smirk2.gif
Who would pay $16/qt for an oil when you can get a better oil for less than $5...
crazy2.gif
 
So the garbage reputation is based on VI and price? Why don't you just admit that you can't afford expensive oil and be done with it. Real data is not "lots of people on MC forums who tried it and didn't like it compared to other oils."
 
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