Flushed Tacoma w/ D6

[AzFireGuy79]

Just flushed 14 quarts of Redline D6 through my 06 Tacoma tonight. Its very annoying how you have to use a pump to get fluid into this trans and then you have to use a jumper wire on the OBD-II port to assure the level in the trans is correct in relationship to temp.

I took it for a ten minute drive and it shifts very nicely indeed! Im planning on installing a trans by-pass filter this week. The WS had 30K on it and still looked very red and smelled fine. Not what I am use to with other fluids. We will see how it holds up.

 

[brian12]

Fourteen quarts of D6 must have cost you a pretty penny.

 

[hate2work]

I seriously believe that the only reason Toyota went to this "sealed" tranny was to create more revenues for the dealerships because it's harder to service/change.

Good to know that someone figured out the finer points of getting it changed out, good on you.

Also good to know that D6 is compatible with the WS fluid Toyota uses.

Now you're gonna have to change your sig line lol

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: hate2work

I seriously believe that the only reason Toyota went to this "sealed" tranny was to create more revenues for the dealerships because it's harder to service/change.

Good to know that someone figured out the finer points of getting it changed out, good on you.

Also good to know that D6 is compatible with the WS fluid Toyota uses.

Now you're gonna have to change your sig line lol

The reason why Toyota went to a "sealed" transmission is the same reason why many manufacturers got rid of the dipstick-- to stop people from servicing the unit with the wrong fluid, such as Dexron and an additive. In addition, the fluid should last 150k easily under normal service so servicing it isn't a major concern.

 

[nthach]

My parent's Prius is filled the same way as a manual gearbox - I wonder if I need to shunt the DLC with a jumper just to ensure the ATF level is OK.

 

[hate2work]

Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: hate2work

I seriously believe that the only reason Toyota went to this "sealed" tranny was to create more revenues for the dealerships because it's harder to service/change.

Good to know that someone figured out the finer points of getting it changed out, good on you.

Also good to know that D6 is compatible with the WS fluid Toyota uses.

Now you're gonna have to change your sig line lol

The reason why Toyota went to a "sealed" transmission is the same reason why many manufacturers got rid of the dipstick-- to stop people from servicing the unit with the wrong fluid, such as Dexron and an additive. In addition, the fluid should last 150k easily under normal service so servicing it isn't a major concern.




You're never going to convince me or any other rational thinking person that Toyota only had their customers best interest in mind when they decided to do this. The bottom line with any business is money, and this was simply a way to increase the money flowing to the service area by making the ATF replacement a much more difficult task.

 

[AzFireGuy79]

It would have cost me alot if I didn't get a smokin deal on 4 gallons on ebay a few months back for $55.00! 12 quarts of WS is about $100.00 at my local dealer so I saved some cash and in my opinion got a much better fluid.

As far as going 150K on any ATF, GOOD LUCK! I dont care how good the ATF is, a transmission has very little in the way of filtration. 150K with a good bypass is possible. It might make it to 150K if you are lucky but whats it shifting like? It would be ok though if I had used an amsoil atf if they made one(critic) ha.

This procedure is actually surprisingly easy besides having to pump the fluid. Next time i am going to invest in an electric one. The most important part of this whole thing is to jump the OBD-II port to verify fluid level at 46c. Other than that its cake.

Before this I had my trans flushed with WS at 30K. I hope to triple that with the addition of the bypass and I feel confident in doing so with how the old WS looked coming out this time with 30K in the hot arizona desert.

 

[toytaco970]

Hey AzFireGuy - Can you go into some more detail on how you flushed your Tacoma? Did you go thru the cooler lines or ???

 

[AzFireGuy79]

First you need to locate the cooler return line. It should be the bottom hose. Confirm by detaching and using a container to catch fluid that comes out while an assistant cranks the engine.
Once this is established using a long clear hose with a brass hose mender ( male to male) hook into the return line and route the hose to a suitable container with the 2 quart level clearly maked for you or your assistant.

Next Go under the truck and locate the fill plug. The plug is a 24 MM and is located on the passenger side near the tail shaft of the transmission. It has the letters WS stamped in the middle. Remove and set aside. Next locate the drain plug. It is a standard bolt whereas the check plug ( which you will remove later) requires a hex bit. One thing thats very important to rememeber before removing either of these is to get the special crush washers at your local Toyota Parts department. They are the same for both the check plug and the drain plug. The fill plug uses a rubber o-ring which should be re-usable.

Now you can remove the drain plug. The amsoil site claims like around 3.6 quarts but I only saw about 2.7 or so. Might have been a little low. Its merely interesting. Just make sure to put in what came out for now as you will confirm the level later. After drain is complete reinstall plug and new washer. At this point you will need to have a suitable lube pump handy along with your chosen ATF. I used a Pyrex measuring cup to measure the fluid that came out and later to measure the two quarts put in each time, but I was also using one gallon jugs without hash marks.

Now its like any other flush with the exception of having to pump in two quarts at a time. After you have gotten a good flush. Reconnect the return line to the radiator. Now its time to jumper the DLC. Take a suitable wire and jump from pin #4 to pin# 13. After wire is secure start the truck. Now you need to shift the transmission from Neutral to Drive back and forth holding for approx 1 1/2 seconds for SIX seconds total until the trans oil temp light which is red and is located on the tach side is illuminated for 2 seconds and then goes off. After this happens the computer is in trans temp detectection mode. Other diagnostic lights will flash. Disregard. Let the truck idle in Neutral until the trans oil temp light comes on and stays on. Its nice to have your helper under the truck at this time to quickly remove the plug. The light will come on at approx 46 degrees C. When the light comes on with the engine still running remove the check plug. If fluid comes out let it continue unil there is a slight trickle and then reinstall the plug and you are good to go. If nothing come out pump in about 1/3 to half a quart but make sure to turn off the engine for this so that the oil temp does not go to high in the mean time. After it is filled start the truck and check the level as before. When you have assured the level is good remove the jumper wire and reinstall the drain plug at the rear of the trans. NOTE: If the trans oil temp light starts to flash after being solid red for a time this means the trans temp has exceeded 46 and is beyond proper range. You will need to let it cool down before repeating the process listed above. Enjoy.

*Please note that this is just meant to be a guide. I assume no responsibility for any damages that result from any of the recommendations made above.

 

[brian12]

Originally Posted By: AzFireGuy79

First you need to locate the cooler return line. It should be the bottom hose. Confirm by detaching and using a container to catch fluid that comes out while an assistant cranks the engine.
Once this is established using a long clear hose with a brass hose mender ( male to male) hook into the return line and route the hose to a suitable container with the 2 quart level clearly maked for you or your assistant.

Next Go under the truck and locate the fill plug. The plug is a 24 MM and is located on the passenger side near the tail shaft of the transmission. It has the letters WS stamped in the middle. Remove and set aside. Next locate the drain plug. It is a standard bolt whereas the check plug ( which you will remove later) requires a hex bit. One thing thats very important to rememeber before removing either of these is to get the special crush washers at your local Toyota Parts department. They are the same for both the check plug and the drain plug. The fill plug uses a rubber o-ring which should be re-usable.

Now you can remove the drain plug. The amsoil site claims like around 3.6 quarts but I only saw about 2.7 or so. Might have been a little low. Its merely interesting. Just make sure to put in what came out for now as you will confirm the level later. After drain is complete reinstall plug and new washer. At this point you will need to have a suitable lube pump handy along with your chosen ATF. I used a Pyrex measuring cup to measure the fluid that came out and later to measure the two quarts put in each time, but I was also using one gallon jugs without hash marks.

Now its like any other flush with the exception of having to pump in two quarts at a time. After you have gotten a good flush. Reconnect the return line to the radiator. Now its time to jumper the DLC. Take a suitable wire and jump from pin #4 to pin# 13. After wire is secure start the truck. Now you need to shift the transmission from Neutral to Drive back and forth holding for approx 1 1/2 seconds for SIX seconds total until the trans oil temp light which is red and is located on the tach side is illuminated for 2 seconds and then goes off. After this happens the computer is in trans temp detectection mode. Other diagnostic lights will flash. Disregard. Let the truck idle in Neutral until the trans oil temp light comes on and stays on. Its nice to have your helper under the truck at this time to quickly remove the plug. The light will come on at approx 46 degrees C. When the light comes on with the engine still running remove the check plug. If fluid comes out let it continue unil there is a slight trickle and then reinstall the plug and you are good to go. If nothing come out pump in about 1/3 to half a quart but make sure to turn off the engine for this so that the oil temp does not go to high in the mean time. After it is filled start the truck and check the level as before. When you have assured the level is good remove the jumper wire and reinstall the drain plug at the rear of the trans. NOTE: If the trans oil temp light starts to flash after being solid red for a time this means the trans temp has exceeded 46 and is beyond proper range. You will need to let it cool down before repeating the process listed above. Enjoy.

*Please note that this is just meant to be a guide. I assume no responsibility for any damages that result from any of the recommendations made above.


Wow, what a pain in the [censored]. Makes me not wanna buy a new car.

 

[hate2work]

Exactly what I was thinking, Brian. Thank God both my Toyotas have the conventional tranny.

AZfireguy, great write up

 

[JonnyHotcakes]

Originally Posted By: hate2work

You're never going to convince me or any other rational thinking person that Toyota only had their customers best interest in mind when they decided to do this. The bottom line with any business is money, and this was simply a way to increase the money flowing to the service area by making the ATF replacement a much more difficult task.


110%.

TheCritic really seems to hate Lubeguard.

Cars have been made far more difficult to service yourself, and it has nothing to do with the customer's best interests. Those who know what they are doing will figure it out, the clueless will still tinker, and those who know enough not to will still go to a garage. And it's going to be more expensive for everyone.

I'm getting to where I only want older vehicles that I can work on with ease. My old Mercury Cougar was a snap to change everything on, for example.

 

[firemachine69]

Wow. What a royal PITA. I thought putting my Yaris tranny in service mode was a hassle!

 

[Toy4x4runner]

good to know... thanks for the information!!! I usually just do a Hot drain and Fill every 30k. Does this trans have an internal Filter that needs replaced, or strainer that needs cleaned?

 

[AzFireGuy79]

It has a mesh strainer. I really see no need to clean it before about 100K. Even then these trannys running low viscosity fluid seem to shed very little in the way of clutch material. With 30K of dusty 115 degree phoenix abuse the WS still looked like new. I will point out that the trans was not shifting like it did 20K ago when the WS had about 10K on it. I assume this is because the Toyota WS had sheared some. Others have noted this and have shortened the interval of this fluid. I have been told D6 shears very little if any. We will see. So far its great. Glad I could help!

 

[Bullet]

Originally Posted By: AzFireGuy79

First you need to locate the cooler return line. It should be the bottom hose. Confirm by detaching and using a container to catch fluid that comes out while an assistant cranks the engine.
Once this is established using a long clear hose with a brass hose mender ( male to male) hook into the return line and route the hose to a suitable container with the 2 quart level clearly maked for you or your assistant.

Next Go under the truck and locate the fill plug. The plug is a 24 MM and is located on the passenger side near the tail shaft of the transmission. It has the letters WS stamped in the middle. Remove and set aside. Next locate the drain plug. It is a standard bolt whereas the check plug ( which you will remove later) requires a hex bit. One thing thats very important to rememeber before removing either of these is to get the special crush washers at your local Toyota Parts department. They are the same for both the check plug and the drain plug. The fill plug uses a rubber o-ring which should be re-usable.

Now you can remove the drain plug. The amsoil site claims like around 3.6 quarts but I only saw about 2.7 or so. Might have been a little low. Its merely interesting. Just make sure to put in what came out for now as you will confirm the level later. After drain is complete reinstall plug and new washer. At this point you will need to have a suitable lube pump handy along with your chosen ATF. I used a Pyrex measuring cup to measure the fluid that came out and later to measure the two quarts put in each time, but I was also using one gallon jugs without hash marks.

Now its like any other flush with the exception of having to pump in two quarts at a time. After you have gotten a good flush. Reconnect the return line to the radiator. Now its time to jumper the DLC. Take a suitable wire and jump from pin #4 to pin# 13. After wire is secure start the truck. Now you need to shift the transmission from Neutral to Drive back and forth holding for approx 1 1/2 seconds for SIX seconds total until the trans oil temp light which is red and is located on the tach side is illuminated for 2 seconds and then goes off. After this happens the computer is in trans temp detectection mode. Other diagnostic lights will flash. Disregard. Let the truck idle in Neutral until the trans oil temp light comes on and stays on. Its nice to have your helper under the truck at this time to quickly remove the plug. The light will come on at approx 46 degrees C. When the light comes on with the engine still running remove the check plug. If fluid comes out let it continue unil there is a slight trickle and then reinstall the plug and you are good to go. If nothing come out pump in about 1/3 to half a quart but make sure to turn off the engine for this so that the oil temp does not go to high in the mean time. After it is filled start the truck and check the level as before. When you have assured the level is good remove the jumper wire and reinstall the drain plug at the rear of the trans. NOTE: If the trans oil temp light starts to flash after being solid red for a time this means the trans temp has exceeded 46 and is beyond proper range. You will need to let it cool down before repeating the process listed above. Enjoy.

*Please note that this is just meant to be a guide. I assume no responsibility for any damages that result from any of the recommendations made above.
Could you be a little more specific? Is your pump pumping faster that the cooler line is draining? I have the same transmission and been wanting to do the same thing, but I was thinking of running a line from a bucket of fresh fuild and letting the cooler line suck it into the transmission. Would that work?

 

[AzFireGuy79]

To answer your question, NO there is no suction on the other side of the disconnected return line. What i was alluding to was instead of POURING in two quarts after flushing two and stopping the engine like in a regular flush, you have to stop the engine and PUMP IN two quarts as there is as you know no traditional "Dip Stick". Then start it up, let two drain into the container of choice. Once 2QTS are in the container, stop the engine and get your two quarts and pump them in throught the filler hole. Reapeat this until you have achieved a full flush. FYI 14 Quarts is overkill in this transmission. I did it because I had gotten a deal on 4 gallons.

Sorry for the confusion let me know if this answers your question.

 

[artificialist]

Yeah, this is another instance of Toyota working to make their dealerships more money.

However, I am sure the independent auto repair businesses will figure out how to get around this stuff.

During the 70s, many people were convinced smog equipment would end independent repair shops.
During the 80s, many people that fully computerized would end independent repair shops.

Independent shops will eventually get skilled at this task.

 

[Ramblin Fever]

Sealed units are nothing *new*; Isuzu and GM did this on the 1995-2002 Troopers, Rodeo's and Rodeo Sport automatics. Once you figure out how to perform the servicing, it's really not that difficult, you just have to pump it in from upside down.

Closed/sealed tranny does NOT mean it does not need servicing, though most owners manuals will lead you to believe that the fluid never needs changed....this is so very wrong. It needs changed just as often as a tranny with a dipstick.

I do believe this is a manufactorers way of convincing people to bring their vehicles in for dealer servicing only, by attempting to make the process difficult for the average owner.

 

[AzFireGuy79]

I don't think anyone ever insinuated that this was a new thing. I have done the same thing on quite a few of the sealed GM units and you are right about it being simple pumping the fluid in, but in the Toyota five speed you have to confirm the fluid level. Not everyone knows how to do this or even realizes that it is a key part of the process. Furthermore even when they do realize the fluid level needs to be checked at a certain temp they will 9 times out of ten not know how to accomplish this because it is not mainstream info.

The reason I posted this was to help others who have the same transmission. It isn't that difficult once you figure some things out, but it's not just like the transmissions you discussed. And I'm not the first guy to do it. Just thought I would spread the info.