What is the closest type of vehicle motor oil that I can use in my lawnmower if the mower calls for SAE 30 for temps above 32(F) and 5W30 for temps below 32(F). Obviously, I'm going to be using the mower in temps above 32. Vehicle motor oil is always on sale, plus I have a small stash.
Vehicle motor oil vs. lawnmower oil
- Thread starter rocketman
- Start date
- Status
I pour in whatever extra 5W30 I have laying around (sometimes Mobil 1).
Been doing it for years, no problems.
Thanks. What is the closest weight/type oil to a SAE 30?
10w-30, 5w-30, 0w-30, all are 30 weight oils. While a bit different from a straight 30 weight, any will work just fine. I actualy just put MaxLife 10w-40 in my B&S motor with no ill effects so far.
I have always used the Exxon SuperFlow SAE 30 available from AZ for all the mowers and edgers.
( always priced right )
I can say that a time or two I've put in a 10w-30, but I have always felt that the mowers would blow too much smoke.
To be clear, this is a very little amount of smoke, but with the SAE 30, I never see any smoke at all.
( always priced right )
I can say that a time or two I've put in a 10w-30, but I have always felt that the mowers would blow too much smoke.
To be clear, this is a very little amount of smoke, but with the SAE 30, I never see any smoke at all.
I used briggs 30wt in my push mower new(6.5hp briggs) .No problems changed the oil,put in exxon superflo 5w 30 it started smoking
. changed the oil again to exxon superflo 30wt,no more smoke.
this did the same thing in my 13 year old 12.5hp briggs. so i think in the summer any straight 30wt wieght will do. I will not use multie grade oils in my mowers again.
That's what I've heard - the mower might blow a little smoke if using 5W30, 10W30, etc. I just don't want to ruin the engine. I have two young daughters, but I also consider my truck and my lawnmower my other "babies".
30 weight is the best for an air cooled mower. It is also better to keep it on full throttle for more air. However, mobil synthetic 10-30 is the best. Like a 30 weight , it does not have molecules that expand when hot to slow the oil flow and increase viscosity.
I like the convenience of buying lawn mower oil in the small containers. Exact fill for me.
What concerns me is the additive pak. Lawnmower oil is SAE 30, SJ,CF rated. The multi-grades might also have VII's that will break down in a small engine. 10W-30 if you must. I'd avoid 5-30 and 10-40 especially. If you have a 10-30 HDEO, that would work.
Still a straight 30 would be best and it's not expensive. My engine manual (Tecumseh) cautions against the multigtrade dinos.
What concerns me is the additive pak. Lawnmower oil is SAE 30, SJ,CF rated. The multi-grades might also have VII's that will break down in a small engine. 10W-30 if you must. I'd avoid 5-30 and 10-40 especially. If you have a 10-30 HDEO, that would work.
Still a straight 30 would be best and it's not expensive. My engine manual (Tecumseh) cautions against the multigtrade dinos.
Thanks to all.
I've been using Mobil 1 10W-30 for 23 years in every piece of 4 cycle lawn equipment I have owned (Murray 18 HP riding mower, Snapper 10 HP rear engine rider, John Deere walk behind mower with a 4 HP B&S. Troybilt 8 HP tiller, 6 HP air compressor, 5.5 HP pressure washer (Honda), I still have all these units except the Murray riding mower. The John Deere mower is 26 years old and has not had any engine repair except for carb overhaul and sparkplug changes.
You just can't beat Mobil 1.
You just can't beat Mobil 1.
30 weight Penzoil 4 cycle oil seems ok for my 4 cycle Lawnboy. Change once a year. Easy to find at Advance.
FYI,I have also started using a bit of FP60 in my lawnmower gas.
FYI,I have also started using a bit of FP60 in my lawnmower gas.
My mower also calls for SAE30 in similar temps and 5w-30 for lower temps. It does however state that a 5w-30 or 10w-30 oil may be used in higher temps if SYNTHETIC oil is used. As a result, I use Mobil 1 5w or 10w-30. Works great and never burned oil in even the highest summer temps (90 degrees).
I use 30 wt. oil detergent. But because my lawn equipment does not have filters I have been thinking of changing to a 30 wt nondetergent oil. The reason for this is the detergent will suspend dirt in the oil and the non detergent will let the dirt settle in the pan witness a oil air cleaner. I change my oil often. Mike
why would a lawnmower engine shear oil worse than a car engine?
I run 15w40 in my honda with no aparent ill effects.
I run 15w40 in my honda with no aparent ill effects.
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
A 5W-30 is not the same as 30W. You can pour it hot or cold to see it's a different weight.
Most thin oils will not protect a lawnmowers high revving, workhorse engine like the heavier weights. You will burn more too. Just because the thin oils of today are built better for protection, so are the thicker oils that seem to work better in high-output motors.
The heavier weights were/are recommended for lawmowers more-so. The thin ones are listed in your newer lawnmower manuals because lawnmower manufacturers know repeat customer-ship is low & most lawnmowers sold are cheap ones... therefore they don't care about longetivity like a car manufacturer. They may even be under attack by vehicle oil companies to promote theirs in these manuals. So to keep them happy & quiet, the lawnmower-makers include the thin oils.
If you are getting 20 years out of your lawnmower using 5W-30, then you will likely get around 40 years service with a 15W-40, 15W-50, 20W-50... 30W.. depending on your climate. If I lived in northern Canada, the lowest #s I would go is 10W-40 in my lawnmowers. If I lived in Texas, I would use 20W-50 or 30W.
[ May 07, 2005, 02:30 PM: Message edited by: Triple_Se7en ]
Most thin oils will not protect a lawnmowers high revving, workhorse engine like the heavier weights. You will burn more too. Just because the thin oils of today are built better for protection, so are the thicker oils that seem to work better in high-output motors.
The heavier weights were/are recommended for lawmowers more-so. The thin ones are listed in your newer lawnmower manuals because lawnmower manufacturers know repeat customer-ship is low & most lawnmowers sold are cheap ones... therefore they don't care about longetivity like a car manufacturer. They may even be under attack by vehicle oil companies to promote theirs in these manuals. So to keep them happy & quiet, the lawnmower-makers include the thin oils.
If you are getting 20 years out of your lawnmower using 5W-30, then you will likely get around 40 years service with a 15W-40, 15W-50, 20W-50... 30W.. depending on your climate. If I lived in northern Canada, the lowest #s I would go is 10W-40 in my lawnmowers. If I lived in Texas, I would use 20W-50 or 30W.
[ May 07, 2005, 02:30 PM: Message edited by: Triple_Se7en ]
I use Valvoline Racing VR1 50wt in my 6 horse Craftsman/Techumseh (1999 vintage). Been using it since it's first oil change 6 years ago and it still runs and starts like brand new. The engine is going to outlast the mower itself.
Oh yeah, the oil gets changed twice a year.
[ May 07, 2005, 03:51 PM: Message edited by: 99 ]
Oh yeah, the oil gets changed twice a year.
[ May 07, 2005, 03:51 PM: Message edited by: 99 ]
To be generous, we'll just label this as "conjecture".
Sae 30 HD is the time-honored, traditional lubricant for air cooled, 4 stroke engines. It is a durable grade & stands up to the high engine temps.
But volatility, rather than viscosity, is the key issue. Straight 30 weights, even Grp I oils, typically have better volatility ratings than the xW-30 oils. A 5W-30 will perform in an air cooled B&S engine - just check the oil often & change it once a year.
And, at the other end of the spectrum, 15W-40's also provide good performance.
Check out The Briggs Oil Temperature Chart and note under the *(asterisk) that 5W-30 use in temps above 40 deg F may consume oil.
No warnings about engine damage due to "thin" oils.
15W-40 Rotella for my B&S 18.5hp Twin and 22hp B&S V-Twin with full pressure lube. Doesn't burn, and seems to work just fine.
- Status
Similar threads
