Aftermarket Underbody rust prevention treatment?

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Saw this site in another thread on BITOG re: underbody rust prevention - lanolin based rust/corrosion preventive and lubricant that provides long term protection and lubrication for all metal surfaces.
http://www.eurekafluidfilm.com/

Supposedly $100-150 for our Canadian friends up north.

Any1 care to comment on this or any other method for us rust belt drivers in the US?
 
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I have used fluid film on both my cars I coat the underbody and any other places that could rust. I use 2 -3 cans per car and usually cost them in September every year prob cost me 70 a year for both cars. It is easy to DIY ! The product seems to last the whole year and costs very well.
 
i have it done every 3 years ..oil mixed with grease ,it does not run ..no more rusted out rocker pannels ..get it done before it starts to rust ...also good for the bottom of the doors ,were most of the rust shows up after 3 years..money well spent ..
 
I used the Amsoil HD metal protector, seems to go on easy enough. I just did it so I can't comment on how well it protects. A little goes a long way.

Frank D
 
Krown.

1989 Townie:
lho5.jpg


It creeps out everywhere, but no rust.
 
I've been using it for 25 years. I apply it myself. A definite thumbs up for lanolin-based underbody protection.

I use Texaco Rustproof Compound L... about $100 per pail. I spray heavily about every 3 years and use almost a full pail per car.
 
I've been using LPS 3 on my rust prone 2002 F-150 and I've had great results compared to my 1989 F-150 which sat on my same wet stone driveway and didn't use anything. It's easy to use and in 2005 costed me $35/gallon, which goes a long way, 3 years to a gallon. It's a waxy rust inhibitor which works really well for me. It can be brushed on or sprayed on.

Whimsey
 
Can you all suggest some DIY products?

So far I have:

Rustoleum
LPS 3
Texaco Rustproof Compound L
Krown
Amsoil HD
 
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Before it starts snowing (and before they start salting up the roads), I take the car to a self-wash place and pressure wash the undercarriage. I then get under there and spray it down with CorrosionX HD. When the snow is over, I take the car back to the wash and pressure wash the undercarriage again.

CorrosionX HD
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I used the Amsoil HD metal protector, seems to go on easy enough. I just did it so I can't comment on how well it protects. A little goes a long way.

Frank D


I used it last fall. Protected the car quite well through last winter. Even lasted throughout summer. I cleaned the belly a month ago really well to remove any possible grime buildup. No rust. Sprayed it again the same day, hopefully it will perform the same this year. 1.5 cans did my whole car(frame, suspension, and sheet metal). And my car is rather large so 1 can should easily handle most normal sized cars.
I love the smell to. Like McD french fries IMO.
 
I seam seal all joints under the car. paint underside with Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator and top coat with eastwoods Chasis black. If you have existing rust, use eastwoods converter. then the encaposulator and chasis black.

THen flood subsframes, interior panels, doors, hatches etc with LPS 3 or Fluid film.
 
Not only thought about it, but I tried it one year. I found the protection was gone (oil dried up and washed off) before the salty winter was over. For the same effort, a good lanolin-based protectant does a superior job.
 
Originally Posted By: aaxb970
Anyone thought of using old oil from change?


My cousin told me that was common Upstate NY and in Canada, and works well. The key I believe is "used oil", and not new oil. I don't think its very good on any rubber parts, I don't think the EPA would be thrilled about the use of it as an undercoat, but I'm sure it works. I heard about guys spraying bar oil under their cars as well.

Frank D
 
Have you tried the stuff used in spray-on truck bedliners. I just shot a story about a hot-rod builder using it for his cars. He can even tint it to match the paint. If you are interested, you can see the video at StreetMuscleAction.com.
 
Ramps work, drive the car up the ramps do the front section, then back it up the ramps and do the rear. It worked well for me.
 
Yeah, Tom said that whenever he is working on a car that's more than just a shell like you see in the video, he gets it up on jackstands as high as possible and sprays the undercoat while laying on his back.
 
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