RLI BioSyn 0W20 10,250 Honda V6

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Ballwin, MO
RLI BioSyn 0W20
10,250 miles on oil
2004 Honda Odyssey 3.5L with 82,500 miles

Good results with RLI. Even better than with Schaeffer Oil 7000 Supreme 5W20, although this drain interval was a 1/3rd longer. Viscosity is right on spec for oil - no change at all. No oil was added and no oil was consumed over 10,250 drain interval. Main problem is fuel dilution with the 2004 Honda V6 3.5L; Fuel dilution was 1.45%. I am very pleased with the results with the interpretation by Terry Dyson (NFI).

Wear Metals
Iron 13
Copper 15
Tin 1
Lead 1
Chrom 1
Nickel 0
Alum 4
Titan 0
Silver 0

Additive Metals
Calcium 1751
Magne 11
Zinc 862
Phos 644
Bariu 0
Molyb 32
Antim 119

Contaminant Metals
Silicon 24
Sodium 20
Boron 9
Potas 0
Vandadium 0

V40C 46.9
V100C 8.6
TAN 3.3
TBN 2.0
Flash 290
Oxid 159
NIT 16
KF 405
Fuel 1.45%
Soot 0
Glycol 0
vndx 164
 
buster,
it can be

TR,
Was Schaeffer's the previous run making this the 1st run with RLI?
What filters? Air filter interval?
Any fuel adds?
Spark plugs?
 
This engine has NGK plugs with 10,000 miles on them. I think they are palladium plugs.
The air filter is a WIX, changed every 10,000 miles.
Run fuel injection cleaner pretty regularly, with regular gas.

It does 24-26MPG in the summer, but about 20-22MPG in the winter.

This is the 1st run with RLI. The RLI is cleaning the engine like AutoRX I hear. The next run is supposed to be better. I'll check in another 10,000 miles which will be 6 months from now.

Dan
 
Comparison of RLI 0W20 on left and Schaeffer 7000 on right. Remember, RLI ran 1/3rd longer.

Wear Metals
Iron 13/10
Copper 15/21
Tin 1/0
Lead 1/0
Chrom 1/1
Nickel 0/0
Alum 4/3
Titan 0/0
Silver 0/0

Additive Metals
Calcium 1751/1907
Magne 11/10
Zinc 862/985
Phos 644/749
Bariu 0/1
Molyb 32/235
Antim 119/0

Contaminant Metals
Silicon 24/11
Sodium 20/79 (may have been some powder in the tubing)
Boron 9/8
Potas 0/0
Vandadium 0/0

V40C 46.9/49.3
V100C 8.6/8.5
TAN 3.3/1.5
TBN 2.0/2.8
Flash 290/300
Oxid 159/19
NIT 16/11
KF 405/387
Fuel 1.55%/1.45%
Soot 0/0
Glycol 0/0
vndx 164/148
 
Both of these oils appear to be great choices for your Honda engine. On your comparison please double check your numbers (fuel% looks reversed).
 
Nice report, TrailRunner. I expect your next RLI run/UOA will do even better, as the Schaeffer add-pack is cleaned off the engine internals and RLI's is deposited instead.

Buster, a TAN-TBN reversal of this magnitude would normally have caused much higher wear. RLI lasts longer after the reversal. Or, since RLI starts with a higher TAN as a consequence of its composition, it may thus not be directly comparable to 'regular' oil TAN readings.
 
Here's the UOA I posted some time ago. I did just the opposite, I switched from Biosyn to Shaeffer's. I'm curious, what's the first number you look at, TBN,TAN, Iron?
I'm told the iron spike with the Biosyn is a nonissue and related more to the cleaning than anything else.

Date Date Date Date Date Date
Mileage Mileage Mileage Mileage Mileage Mileage
Mi on oil
Oil oil oil oil oil oil


10/21/08 08/23/08 08/01/08 05/21/08 12/14/07 10/09/07
156,711 150,326 147,710 141,713 131,044 125,059
3,571 2,616 2,612 2,215 3,000 2,872
Shaeffer 5W20 Shaeffer 5W20 Penn Plat 5W20 Biosyn 0w20 Biosyn 5w20 Frankenblend
Iron 4 3 4 15 3 4
Copper 5 4 5 6 4 4
Tin 0 0 0 0 0 0
Lead 0 0 0 0 1 0
Chrom 0 0 1 0 1 1
Nickel 0 0 0 1 0 0
Alum 2 1 1 1 2 2
Titan 0 0 0 0 0 0
Silver 0 0 0 0 0 0
Cal 1684 1657 2344 1887 2027 1840
Mag 15 13 16 11 10 10
Zinc 942 799 905 1,000 1,034 960
Phos 760 794 775 945 906 763
Barlu 1 0 0 0 0 0
Molyb 323 226 45 2 8 8
Antim 0 0 18 138 182 222
Sil 18 15 16 13 14 10
Sodium 13 12 8 10 9 11
Boron 8 10 38 17 47 33
Pot 0 0 0 0 0 0
Vanad 0 0 0 0 0 0
V40C 37.1 38.4 38 39.6 39.7 40.4
V100C 7 7.1 6.9 7.7 7.5 8.0
TAN 1.63 1.34 1.34 1.85 1.85 2.13
Flash 295 315 280 280 280 350
Oxid 18 18 36 152 142 101
Nit 9 8 9 10 10 11
KF 735 380 980 437 879 505
TBN 3.8 4.7 6.6 4.2 4.8 4.9
Fuel 1.51 1.33 1.64 1.64 1.61 1.03
Soot 0 0 0 0 0 0
Glycol 0 0 0 0 0 0
Vndx 153 150 143 168 158 177
 
Originally Posted By: DCRamsey
I'm curious, what's the first number you look at, TBN,TAN, Iron?


Whatever's first on the report!
grin2.gif
 
The original fuel dilution number was incorrect. (I was planning on you not noticing my correction.)

I'm looking for a way to reduce fuel dilution. Has anyone tried a cold air intake on a Honda V6? Did it remedy this issue?
 
I have chased everything I can think of (and the experts on BITOG) to improve fuel combustion on two of my vehicles. I don't have a Honda V-6, but my 2000 Tundra V-8 came back with the best fuel dilution so far after changing all the O2 sensors and adding FP+ at 1 oz/10 gal to the gas. I'm starting to consider changing O2 sensors at regular intervals, even if there is no CEL or code for a malfunctioning sensor. For my wife's G35, I'm not sure it will help though. Her 3 mile drive to work will never allow the engine oil to warm up enough to come out of the rich fuel/air mixture assigned for cold engines. I'm afraid short OCI's are the norm on this one.
 
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