UOA Yamaha WR250R '08 Rotella 15w40

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Ncogburn

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Here is a recent analysis of my Yamaha dual sport. Not terribly happy with the aluminum number, but without universal averages, it's hard to say if there's anything up. What I do like is the lack of fuel/good flash pt. Silicon isn't bad either. Obviously the Rotella sheared a bit, and for only 500 miles, it's close to loosing a grade, but I doubt many XXw40 oils would do better. This is a fun bike... street legal, fuel injected, 6 speed trans, reasonably competent off road, frugal with fuel. Not the same engine (or anything else for that matter) as the yz/wr 250f. I'd like it to last forever... any opinions?
 
how long will your normal oci's be? i change out mine every other ride but is a little different ride from yours.

I run rotella in mine but never had a uoa done. not really concerned about how much it shears down as I change it our regularly.

Sunruh will tell you whats really up, do not be afraid.

ahhh to have a fi bike some day....
 
ok,
your Alum is not that bad. are you speed shifting or banging the clutch much?
however, other values are getting there.

Iron 10, Copper 7 are getting up there.

your Silver is the highest i've seen.

now your 4v 250R is not identical to my 5v 250F, it is pretty darn close.

your susvis of 70 is still in grade and i would not worry about it.

what oil filter are you using and what air filter oil are you using? how often do you change your air filter?
 
02zx9r; not looking to be greedy with the oci's, but I'd like to get at least 1000 miles safely between.
Sunruh, not speed shifting or doing anything unusual with the clutch, although I think I remember that the clutch plates are aluminum in this bike, as they are (stock at least) in the 250F. Could account far quite a bit of Al. I'm using stock yamaha air and oil filters. As far as the 250R being close to the 250F in construction, There are lots of differences. They share only bore and stroke (also shared with the R1 for that matter). The cases are completely different which likely means totally different bottom-end. The "r" has a counter-balancer, totally different head, oil-pressure regulated timing chain tensioner, etc., etc. Not that this little guy couldn't use some 250F mojo... It's down SEVERAL hp... I know, I rode my bro's YZ250F last weekend @ Sand Mountain, NV. It's had some work done on it in the performance dept, but I was like, "Geez! This things' a 250?" Oh well, he's had a couple top ends in it in less mileage than I have on mine now... There is no free lunch, after all. There's Motul 300V 15W50 in it now. I took a second sample of the Rotella I just drained today with the same mileage as the first which I'll send in to help establish a trend/baseline. Then we'll see what $14.00 per liter buys ya. Thanks for the input, all!
 
Looks like a nice report...I'm surprised it stayed in grade for that long in a 250F...Considering it's a 250F it's going to be a bit harder on the oil....The aluminum is usually going to be there with these bikes because of the clutch and 13 ppm is nothing to worry about...
 
does your english (USA) manual actually say no diesel rated oil?

the F has a counter balancer as well.

oil pressure regulated timing chain tensioner? um, that does not sound so smart. no psi, no tension? what happens when you split the cases and empty the oil pump and then start it with oil in the crankcase? no tension and a chain jump? ugly!
 
keep it off the rev limiter


Originally Posted By: Ncogburn

yz/wr 250f. I'd like it to last forever... any opinions?
 
+1 with adding, fresh oil, clean airfilter, check the valve lash every 2000mi i would think. what is the recommend check intervault on the lash?
 
Originally Posted By: Ncogburn
02zx9r; not looking to be greedy with the oci's, but I'd like to get at least 1000 miles safely between.


1K on the Rotella is doable i would think.

im betting the motul or maxima will fair much better
 
Sunruh; valve clearance check interval for this bike is every 28,800(!) miles. The way I see it, I'll check the clearance a month or so before the warranty is up, then depending on what I find, every 10,000 or so. If Yamaha is comfortable recommending that lengthy interval, well, I imagine they know more about it than I do. An out-of-lash valvetrain typically makes itself known well before any serious damage occurs. I just have to be paying attention to the signs. I know what to look for, and if the past is any indication, there probably isn't much to worry about. Worst case scenario, it gets a valve job. No big deal. The USA manual does state not to use diesel oils rated "CD" which rotella isn't. It also says not to use higher quality oils than specified. Excuse me? What? Stick to the mediocre oil? Which btw is yamalube4 10w30 or yamalube4 20w40, both of which are discontinued. The new Yamalubes that they recommend are Yamalube Full Syn 15w50 (hope it isn't higher quality than what's specified) or yamalube semi-syn 10w50. I've owned 3 modern yamaha's in the last few years and that section is copied and pasted exactly, word for word from the R6 I owned. The manual also states I need to be in 6th gear by 30 mph. PPFFffff! BwaaahaaaHa! Yamaha isn't known for writing the most elegant of user manuals. Oh well, I like the bikes. I guess I'll forgive them.
 
Hello, I ride a 2006 YZ450F and I will be switching to Rotella 15W40. Does this oil do well in comparison to the expensive Motorcycle specific oils? I am worried about the shear stability when it comes to the combined sump. I need to educate myself a bit more when it comes to the uoa's because I just don't want to sacrifice reliability but would like to see a reduction in cost. What do you guys think? I change my oil about every three rides and 10 dollars a quart is getting pretty costly. I mainly ride motocross and some woods. Thanks
 
Originally Posted By: mnm567
Hello, I ride a 2006 YZ450F and I will be switching to Rotella 15W40. Does this oil do well in comparison to the expensive Motorcycle specific oils? I am worried about the shear stability when it comes to the combined sump. I need to educate myself a bit more when it comes to the uoa's because I just don't want to sacrifice reliability but would like to see a reduction in cost. What do you guys think? I change my oil about every three rides and 10 dollars a quart is getting pretty costly. I mainly ride motocross and some woods. Thanks


Rotella T will OUTPERFORM "motorcycle" specific oils such as Yammalube 20w40, Honda GN4, Valvoline 4 Stroke motorcycle and ATV oil.

I cannot comment on how it will perform against synthetic "motorcycle" oil like Motul, Repsol, Bel-ray etc.
 
maxima and motul (the version i have tested) were great. at the top of my list. belray is below SRT....not worth the time to open your wallet to buy. i havent tested repsol.
 
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