Mobil 1 Synthetic 5W30 3400mi 2005 Mitsu EVO VIII

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Gurus,

This is my first post on here, and my first experience with used oil analysis. Please let me know what you guys think about this report.

A little extra info on my Evo: I have cams, exhaust, and run higher boost (24 psi) as part of the custom tune (dyno'd about 75 extra hp over stock) I had done using a piggyback. I have been using TORCO race fuel additive recently.

Please let me know if the link to the report works or not since I haven't tried this before. I have the .pdf file but I'm not sure how to attach it. My main concern is the high lead in this first sample (33).

Thanks!

Adam

EDIT: Link doesn't work unless I'm signed in - sorry!
 
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BLACKSTONE LABS COMMENTS:
Lead was well above average in the first sample from your Mitsubishi. This shows excess wear at the bearings. Fuel dilution was found at 1.3% but this isn't a problem level and normally wouldn't cause any excess wear. No other harmful contaminants were found. If you do any racing that may explain the high lead. The TBN is plenty strong at 6.6 so this oil has lots of life (active additive) left in it. 1.0 is low. Universal averages are based on an oil run of 3,500 miles. Suggest leaving this oil in use and check back in 2,000-3,000 miles for another look.

Elements detected(ppm):
Aluminum 3
Iron 6
Copper 3
Lead 33
Tin 1
Molybdenum 90
Manganese 138
Potassium 2
Boron 51
Silicon 4
Sodium 8
Calcium 2309
Magnesium 13
Phosphorus 669
Zinc 802

Properties:
SUS Visc @ 210 C = 55.3
cSt Visc @ 100 C = 8.86
Flashpoint = 340 F
Fuel % 1.3
Antifreeze % and Water % = 0.0
Insolubles % 0.3
TBN 6.6

EDIT: Sorry about the bad link!
 
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Oils WAY to thin for the application. Part of that is from the fuel. You need a much thicker oil to handle the fuel, and protect the engine.

The Torco additive COULD have lead in it, but even idf that is the case, on a full-tilt engine like this, I'd use a HDEO 5W-40 - D1 comes to mind. Very 'solid' oil
 
Wow, ok... I just used oil that since it was what the manual recommended. I suppose that the additional power would change that need?

Sorry for the stupid question but what is HDEO?
 
HDEO - 'Heavy Duty Engine Oil' Used for Diesel engines.

The conventionals are usually 15W-40 grade. When you goet into the synthetic ones, you get either 5W-40 or 0W-40 for most of them. Some well-known ones are Rotella T 5W-40, and Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40. Mobil also has Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40, which is close to D1. If you're into Amsoil, they have DEO 5W-40.

They are 'tougher' oils that shear somewhat less, and have higher add-levels. Good for higher-stress applications, like modded engines. Maybe try one, and see if you get better numbers.
 
Fuel dilution and too thin of a grade are the culprits here. Switch to a more shear stable, heavier grade oil. IMO.
 
addyguy:
The manual for my Charger SRT8 recommends 0W40 or 5W40, so that is an interesting thought that I would have the same oil in my 2.0L 4 cyl as my 6.1L 8 cyl! Is there a downside to running a 'thicker/heavier duty' oil in my little engine?

TaterandNoodles:
I drive about 2.5 mi to and from work a couple times a day at 35 - 45 mph in high gears (4th or 5th on my 5 spd), so I am probably guilty of lugging. I guess I should stay in 4th? Should I try to keep it at 2.5k rpms or higher?
 
One other note, the oil is 5 months old - would that cause any problem considering there is plenty of active additive remaining in the synthetic oil?
 
Originally Posted By: buster
Fuel dilution and too thin of a grade are the culprits here. Switch to a more shear stable, heavier grade oil. IMO.


+1

Id look for either M1 10w-40 or T&SUV 5w-40 if you want to keep to the mobil1 brand.

Otherwise consider GC 0w-30, etc.

Id be looking for an ACEA A3 rated oil, to deal with high temp/high shear a bit better...
 
Originally Posted By: Adam
addyguy:
The manual for my Charger SRT8 recommends 0W40 or 5W40, so that is an interesting thought that I would have the same oil in my 2.0L 4 cyl as my 6.1L 8 cyl! Is there a downside to running a 'thicker/heavier duty' oil in my little engine?

TaterandNoodles:
I drive about 2.5 mi to and from work a couple times a day at 35 - 45 mph in high gears (4th or 5th on my 5 spd), so I am probably guilty of lugging. I guess I should stay in 4th? Should I try to keep it at 2.5k rpms or higher?


In some engines, running a heavier grade would cause the engine to be 'sluggish' as the heavier oils makes it 'harder' for the engine to rotate. In turbo's there is sometimes a concern about heavier oils in the turbo excaberating(?) tubo lag, but on an engine this 'stepped on', I doubt a move to a 5W-40 would cause a problem. Engine might even run smoother......

IF you don't want to go right to a 5W-40, you might want to try adding a quart of M1 15W-50 to the 5W-30 you are using - it would thicken it up to a high 30/low 40-weight oil, and might be a good place to start. I've seen lots of people have luck w/that approach.....
 
I interpreted your UOA to read, "Change brands and never look back."

I'd stay with the 5w-30 and choose an oil with a lot more moly.
 
I have a a 2.0l turbo saab that calls for a 40wt from the factory. Not uncommon. Like others have said get a 40wt in there I suggest redline
 
It's very possibly the Torco additive has lead in it.

I'd give M1 TDT 5w40 a run. I use it in my Townie, and the car loves it.

Another good choice would be the M1 0w40, since it's used by Porsche in their Turbocharged engines as well....... Somewhat similar environment.
 
That, and the VW 1.8T calls for 5w40 oil.

The number of cylinders doesn't have an effect on the manufacturer's recommended viscosity. Pressures, temperatures, and clearances are what have an effect on the recommended viscosity.
 
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