Best rust protection I have found is Eezox

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I am a bit of a firearm enthusiast (maybe a lot LOL) and I have this horrible rusty finger problem. Anything I touch I leave rusty finger prints on, even stainless in about 2-3 days. I have tried many many types of rust protection oils/greases etc naming a few off the top of my head Break Free, Molly Fusion, Corrosion X, Rem Oil, Mobile 1 (car oil) Birchwood Casey, the list goes on and on !!

Out of all of these above for rust protection Corrosion X and BreakFree worked the best, still you have to leave a thick film on, in hot weather it runs off, or you end up with a wet gun. Eezox was tried on a whim when researching rust protection, I emailed the warren outdoors, and after talking I thought I would try it as I had wasted way over $100 in searching for rust protection. It took me about 3 months, and I knew I found the grail of rust protection, and something that actually works (for me) !! Just some info, Eezox is a CLP ( I don't genraly like CLP "cleaner lubricant protection" type products, seems they do everything decent and nothing well). If you follow the directions and apply 3 coats of this product you will not have to worry about rust, I do wipe the firearm down when coming in from rain, or hot weather, and apply once a year after the first 3 treatments. It leave a dry protective film, you can't see it, and it will also give blued steel a deep rich look like the old Winchester blued steel, also use it on stainless.

Some other good things about Eezox are, cleaner, it does a good job of removing powder fouling, however for copper you will still need to use a good copper solvent (another post maybe) it will prevent/help prevent copper, lead, and powder fouling... now that sounds like snake oil I know, but it leaves a dry film in your bore so you are not laying down copper and lead down a dry bore, much better than a light film of oil, and you don't have to worry about running a patch down the bore before hunting and then worry about rust all hunting season. Eezox really shines on rimfires, and I use it for a CLP on them. It strong enough to remove the wax and powder fouling, and leaves the dry lube to prevent lead fouling. I also use it on all parts I touch that are not painted on a small lathe I have, drill chucks etc.

When you apply the first coat of Eezox treat it like a cleaner, then wipe off dry, then use a very light coat, just enough to wet the metal, let that dry for 3 days, inside the house open a door or window and let the sun shine on the metal/firearm it to help speed things up (if you have kids you should know better) then wipe down with a dry rag, and re-apply as before, let sit a week, then apply again. The third time will give you a really nice look, I'm sure 1 application works fine, but I just found what works bets for me. You can google Eezox rust protection I think 6mmbr.com done some test. Also edit to add, it's best to break the firearm down into parts, rifle= remove stock, and bolt, magazine etc.

I'm not advertising, just wanted to contribute to the forum. I'm not connected to Eezox in any way.

Clint
 
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FWIW, I've been working in the midwest flood zone all this week. Usually, I wipe down the exterior of my duty weapon with oil following a rainy shift, but understand that it has been raining here like I've never seen before in my life (a creek here that is normally 3 ft. deep and about 4 ft. wide, is now about 25 ft. deep and 70ft. wide). After three days, I decided to field strip and clean my 1911. My first "uh-oh" came when I dropped the mag, and water ran out of the gun. This was just from the rain, I didn't wade into anything. I found rust in the mag well and on the magazine, but it was rust runoff from another point, which I tracked down to be the slide stop. That was it for three days of exposure, I was using a recently made mix of breakfree with a trace amount of fp-10 added for some AW/EP purposes. I think it did pretty well considering the conditions-believe me, I've never found water INSIDE of a gun before, and would have cleaned it immediately had I known it was there. I recently purchased and tried weaponshield, which I am very impressed with, and it will become my clp standard once I've cleared my shelf of existing lubes. It lubes and cleans great, but I wasn't using it during this particular incident, so I can't comment on corrosion protection.
 
i cannoy remember who makes this product other than it is lps3 which is a spray on rust preventive, we used it on exposed machinery and it leaves a coating when it dries, maybe do a search on lps3 ..i also used it on auto crankshafs and bare engine blocks i had in my garage and no rust after 2 years
 
The difference between the Eezox and others is the Eezox will leave a dry film intended for use, other protective barrier type sprays will leave a thick film of wax like material. I have also used these types, and it does work great for intended use, on the lathe however the handle etc the Eezox works much better, now a project that will sit idle for a week or so the spray on type protections are the cats meow.

I dare to say on the 1911 if you had used Eezox using 3 treatments you would not have had any rust. I use it on my carry rig, slide and all being I'm not needing a grease/oil to prevent wear in this situation. I also carry a Glock 99% of the time, it's real hard to get any rust out of a Glock LOL

Google best gun rust preventive.
 
+1 for LPS. I use LPS 3 for long term storage and LPS 2 for everyday use. You can get LPS from your local ACE hardware. If they don't have in in stock, they can order it. Over the past 20+ years, I have used it on all my firearms with great results.

As a side note, I think that anytime you store a firearm in a safe you should not only protect the surfaces of the firearm but also use some type of silica gel and use a Golden Rod to keep temps. constant. I use both in all 3 of my gun safes with great success. I did buy a Remington heating element and it works just as good as the Golden Rod. I do not use any type of chemical misters. Moisture is the real problem for storage.
 
Years back 'acid hands' would get you dropped from working in tool & die.

We had problems with fixtures rusting when people were using LPS, I recommended Breakfree and it worked much better. They later tried other firearms products and found that Eezox worked best. I've since used it on my pocket knives and such, but it's gaetting harder to find.
 
The one deal with Eezox is that you DO NOT want to consistently use this product without gloves on. I did for a awhile until reading that Trichloroethylene is nothing to play around with.

Be safe fellow BITOGers!
 
Yes, the solvent used is the main detractor of this oil. It's the reason I stopped using it for general use. Still use it for safe queens.
 
i enjoy eating fried chix peaces while wrenching so all my tools get good an sticky the grease i a vary good protectent and all my tools are rust free!! smelling my tools makes me hunngry. lolz
 
Originally Posted By: Tempest
Yes, the solvent used is the main detractor of this oil. It's the reason I stopped using it for general use. Still use it for safe queens.


And safe queens is precisely what I use it for!

One last thing about Eezox: I absolutely love the scent of the stuff. Hoppe's #9 used to get me yelled out from the wifey, but Eezox is like cologne to her.
LOL.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Saturn_Fan
Originally Posted By: Tempest
Yes, the solvent used is the main detractor of this oil. It's the reason I stopped using it for general use. Still use it for safe queens.


And safe queens is precisely what I use it for!

One last thing about Eezox: I absolutely love the scent of the stuff. Hoppe's #9 used to get me yelled out from the wifey, but Eezox is like cologne to her.
LOL.gif




BLASPHEMY!

#9 is the greatest-smelling gun cleaner in the world!
 
Originally Posted By: firemachine69
Originally Posted By: Saturn_Fan
Originally Posted By: Tempest
Yes, the solvent used is the main detractor of this oil. It's the reason I stopped using it for general use. Still use it for safe queens.


And safe queens is precisely what I use it for!

One last thing about Eezox: I absolutely love the scent of the stuff. Hoppe's #9 used to get me yelled out from the wifey, but Eezox is like cologne to her.
LOL.gif




BLASPHEMY!

#9 is the greatest-smelling gun cleaner in the world!


After about 5 minutes of using #9 I wondered if tear gas would even smell this bad.
crackmeup2.gif
 
The Trichlor ( ethane or ethylene ) will evaporate within a few min. , very volatile stuff .

trichloroethane AKA methylcloroform was an excellent solvent back in the old days , used alot of it . FWIW it also drops wasps out of the air with a single shot ...
 
"..trichloroethane AKA methylcloroform was an excellent solvent back in the old days .."

along with chloroform, ether, methyethylyketone, benzene, and occkatils of different solvents, stuff that didn't nobody any harm, we're all norbal.
 
Amen to that !

I was just pointing out that triclor would be gone in a matter of min. and would probably not be an ongoing hazard .

Yeah , it's still not good for you , use it with adequate ventilation , concentrating and inhaling contents would be just plain stupid , etc.

Seriously though , triclor will dissolve pretty much any petroleum derived lube , and evaporate without a trace leaving a seriously clean surface devoid of any lube whatsoever .
 
Originally Posted By: rclint
I am a bit of a firearm enthusiast (maybe a lot LOL) and I have this horrible rusty finger problem. Anything I touch I leave rusty finger prints on, even stainless in about 2-3 days.


You're a "ruster" too eh ?

Heard that term after I declined to handle the tooling that my mate made when he was an apprentice toolmaker due to not wanting to wreck his gear.

For my firearms, I impregnate a synthetic chamois with petroleum jelly and lanolin. Give them a wipe over after handling.
 
Where are you folks getting Lanolin from? The only kind I see at the store is mixed into a lotion like Jergens and the like. I keep seeing Lanolin as being great on firearms, so I'd like to get my hands on some.
 
I get it at the chemist. I've seen it in babyplaces too, as women use it down here while breast feeding.

It's also called "wool fat".

Big industry down here in Lanolin lubricants/protectors (and over there in Auto RX)

http://woolube.com.au/
 
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