Unk Factory Fill 5W30 - '08 Infiniti G37 at 2670mi

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JonnyO03

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Just thought someone might find a factory Infiniti/Nissan fill UOA interesting....

This is the data on the factory fill from my 2008 Infiniti G37 with the 3.7L VVEL V6 (VQ37VHR). Oil was in the car from 0mi to 2670mi (almost two months drive time, plus a few months sitting at the dealer's lot), and I drove her mostly gently during the break-in period. I assume it was a 5W-30, and the car of course has the stock paper air filters and stock oil filter. Car is driven in the midwest. Now I just need to figure out what synthetic to switch to and when...

Blackstone Labs report (bold emphasis theirs)

MI/HR on oil - 2,670mi
MI/HR on car - 2,670mi
Sample date - 21 June 08
Oil added - 0 quarts

aluminum - 8
chromium - 0
iron - 71
copper - 140
lead - 12
tin - 1
molybdenum - 491
nickel - 1
manganese - 10
silver - 0
titanium - 0
potassium - 8
boron - 15
silicon - 229
sodium - 7
calcium - 1981
magnesium - 11
phosphorus - 734
zinc - 916
barium - 9

SUS Viscosity @ 210'F - 52.3
cSt Viscosity @ 100'C - 7.97
Flashpoint in 'F - 390
Fuel % - Antifreeze % - 0.0
Water % - 0.0
Insolubles % - 0.3

All comments welcome :)
 
A lot of break-in metals and shearing/fuel dilution. You can switch to a synthetic whenever you want. It may or may not help with shear stability. Thanks for posting.
 
I think it's safe to say that unless the manufacturer recommends synthetic, you don't need one. If you want to extend your drain intervals, then go for it.
 
Wow! That's a lot of iron and copper! The silicon I could excuse as having leeched from the seals and perhaps from castings but all of those numbers seem high to my rather inexperienced eyes.

My '08 Civic Si's K20Z3 showed 16,17,62 for Fe/Cu/Si at 4146 mi for 4 months with an aggressive break in procedure and a lot of short trips/cold starts. My UOA was done at Blackstone as well.

Perhaps it spend a lot of time idling at the dealership without being properly broken in. Did they drive from the front to the back each day the 5 months it was on the lot?

Your oil does look more like a Xw20 than a 5w30 but I saw the same thing on mine making me wonder if the manufacturer uses a lighter oil for break in. I read 52.2/7.95/395 for viscosity and flashpoint which is almost spot on what you saw.

Nice car, definitely a nice car! Enjoy and continue to run samples to make sure those numbers come down.
 
Buster - thanks for the comments.

Originally Posted By: Steve S
You are going to run syn oil for the recommended oil change interval for warranty? what is the advantage?


Well, I can go 7,500mi between each oil change on the Infiniti maintenance "Schedule 2". I'm guessing that a regular dino might get a little used up by that period, right?

http://x.infinitihelp.com/Manuals/2008ServiceGuide.pdf

Originally Posted By: benjamming
No oil was added during the OCI, but was it low when changed?


Nope, I checked it several times in those two months, and the level was right where it should have been. I think/read they may have fixed whatever oil consumption issues were reported in the eariler 3.5L VQ series engines.

Originally Posted By: OrdnanceMarine
Wow! That's a lot of iron and copper! ...snip...

Perhaps it spend a lot of time idling at the dealership without being properly broken in. Did they drive from the front to the back each day the 5 months it was on the lot?


I hope not. The car had 12mi on it when it arrived on my doorstep (via trucking freight) from a dealer in Ohio. The car still had all the packing plastic and materials on it. I hope they didn't idle it for a long time for the [censored] of it
frown.gif


Quote:
Your oil does look more like a Xw20 than a 5w30 but I saw the same thing on mine making me wonder if the manufacturer uses a lighter oil for break in. I read 52.2/7.95/395 for viscosity and flashpoint which is almost spot on what you saw.

Nice car, definitely a nice car! Enjoy and continue to run samples to make sure those numbers come down.


Interesting. I honestly have no idea what oil was in there...maybe it was something lighter? Thanks for the thoughts, I'll keep on the UOAs for now...just finished a 3000+ mi road trip, so my next change will be soon.
 
switch to synthetic after 5k miles. my bros friend g35, switched to valvoline synpower at 2k miles and it was burning oil, not sure if it was because he used synthetic to early or they normally burn oil, but the break in procedure was very hard break in. so hard he had to get new tires at 5k miles.

he switched to Amsoil asl 5-30 w. lucal oil stabilizer and he said much quieter and less burn off. Ps i told him not to use the kucas , instead go to a 10-30.
 
I'd dump that oil and all the wear metals out right now. M1 and PP are easy to get at WM in 5 quart jugs.
 
Nice car. My wife's boss just bought one a little while ago.

With an engine like that tuned for higher performance, I'd be inclined to go thicker on the oil. I 'think' Nissan is fairly 'leniant' when it come to the grade of oil allowed - they go by the older 'temp. charts', so you might be able to use a 40-weight. I'd use M1 0W-40, Amsoil Euro 5W-40, M1 TDT...especially if that car will be seeing 'spirited' driving!
 
Nice car i would wait to at least 5k to switch to synthetic i'm waiting until 10k to switch to synthetic in my 08 lancer.. In a vehicle like yours in the Midwest i would use a this 30 weight like GC or a 40 weight oil like castrol 5w40 or mobil 0-40.
 
Originally Posted By: Bulli
switch to synthetic after 5k miles. my bros friend g35, switched to valvoline synpower at 2k miles and it was burning oil, not sure if it was because he used synthetic to early or they normally burn oil, but the break in procedure was very hard break in. so hard he had to get new tires at 5k miles.

he switched to Amsoil asl 5-30 w. lucal oil stabilizer and he said much quieter and less burn off. Ps i told him not to use the kucas , instead go to a 10-30.


I remember hearing about the 3.5VQ's in the G35's burning some oil, but I haven't heard about it happening with the G37s, and I've been fine. I'm definitely a gentle break-in guy.

Originally Posted By: FZ1
I'd dump that oil and all the wear metals out right now. M1 and PP are easy to get at WM in 5 quart jugs.


I changed it when the sample was taken :)

Originally Posted By: addyguy
Nice car. My wife's boss just bought one a little while ago.

With an engine like that tuned for higher performance, I'd be inclined to go thicker on the oil. I 'think' Nissan is fairly 'leniant' when it come to the grade of oil allowed - they go by the older 'temp. charts', so you might be able to use a 40-weight. I'd use M1 0W-40, Amsoil Euro 5W-40, M1 TDT...especially if that car will be seeing 'spirited' driving!


Good thoughts. I'll have to give my service manager a ring and see what he says. As for the spirited driving, I only bark it into second once in awhile :D

Originally Posted By: Jeffdc5
Nice car i would wait to at least 5k to switch to synthetic i'm waiting until 10k to switch to synthetic in my 08 lancer.. In a vehicle like yours in the Midwest i would use a this 30 weight like GC or a 40 weight oil like castrol 5w40 or mobil 0-40.


Thanks! I was thinking of waiting one more change interval before switching.

Does anyone think it would be beneficial to switch to synth earlier than ~11k? (oil change #3)
 
What did you put in when you did this change? I'm assuming more dino 5W-30, was it a dealer fill?
 
Yeah, I was out the door quickly for my roadtrip, so I had the dealer do it. It was just more dino 5W-30. I think he said they use Valvoline.
 
Sounds good....if it were me, I'd run this fill about another 3.4k miles, and changeover to full syn at 6k vehicle miles, and go by the OLM. Thats just me though!
 
I switched to Amsoil after 100 miles on my G35, no problems to date :) The biggest issue with switching to synthetic early on, is that it gets full of break-in metals, and you end-up changing it out sooner that you would normally because of the contamination. If you're a perfectionist like myself, feel free to switch as soon as you want, just keep an eye on those wear metals.
 
Originally Posted By: bythabay
I switched to Amsoil after 100 miles on my G35, no problems to date :) The biggest issue with switching to synthetic early on, is that it gets full of break-in metals, and you end-up changing it out sooner that you would normally because of the contamination. If you're a perfectionist like myself, feel free to switch as soon as you want, just keep an eye on those wear metals.


by the way, after about 3k miles on the differential, I highly recommend switching the gear oil out, it will be highly contaminated with wear metals. Same goes for the transmission (not sure about AT but MT for sure do a drain & fill).
 
Originally Posted By: addyguy
Sounds good....if it were me, I'd run this fill about another 3.4k miles, and changeover to full syn at 6k vehicle miles, and go by the OLM. Thats just me though!


Well, I got a little behind the power curve at work, so I just changed it out at 3.8k (on the oil), but I went with Penzoil Dino 5W-30 (Yellow Bottle). I read good things around here about the stuff and was curious what a UOA on it would look like. Also, I didn't want to switch to synth and extend the OCI to 7.5k mi until I knew the wear metals were down. So, we'll see what this UOA comes back like....

Originally Posted By: bythabay
I switched to Amsoil after 100 miles on my G35, no problems to date :) The biggest issue with switching to synthetic early on, is that it gets full of break-in metals, and you end-up changing it out sooner that you would normally because of the contamination. If you're a perfectionist like myself, feel free to switch as soon as you want, just keep an eye on those wear metals.


Nice to hear you haven't had any problems! You made a good point - I'm sticking with the dino until those wear metals come down, b/c it's not worth going to synth on a 3750mi OCI, I think.

Originally Posted By: bythabay

by the way, after about 3k miles on the differential, I highly recommend switching the gear oil out, it will be highly contaminated with wear metals. Same goes for the transmission (not sure about AT but MT for sure do a drain & fill).


Now, switching my gear oil to synth is something I really didn't think about. Hrm.

Originally Posted By: artificialist
I have dealt with many automatic transmissions, and leaving the factory fill in until the fluid turns dark works very well.


It's a manual tranny :), but I'm guessing your point is still valid.
 
Id say dont worry about it yet. I would get that factory fill out soon if you havent already. First 2 oil changes used a good quality dino oil then switch to a quality synthetic of your choice.

My fiances 2004 G35X is on penz platinum and hasnt consumed any yet. Her car has a little over 70K on it.
 
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