This is my first UOA. Any feedback or recommendations are welcome. Am I right in saying that 0W40 might be too thin for this bike? Looks like it sheared down quite a bit. Maybe Rotella T 5W40 would be a better choice?
Mobil1 0W40 CBR1000RR 8800 miles
- Thread starter motovelo
- Start date
- Status
Originally Posted By: FZ1
I think the Oem's spec at least a 10w. I run 10w-40 HP4.
The first number is only relevant for cold starts. At operating temperature a 0W-40 performs like a 10W-40, a 0W-20 like a 5W-20, and so on.
I think the Oem's spec at least a 10w. I run 10w-40 HP4.
The first number is only relevant for cold starts. At operating temperature a 0W-40 performs like a 10W-40, a 0W-20 like a 5W-20, and so on.
5W-40 Rotella T should maintain significantly higher viscosity. It starts out higher and it loses less viscosity from shearing.
Originally Posted By: Rolf
Originally Posted By: FZ1
I think the Oem's spec at least a 10w. I run 10w-40 HP4.
The first number is only relevant for cold starts. At operating temperature a 0W-40 performs like a 10W-40, a 0W-20 like a 5W-20, and so on.
On virgin oil, that's true, but not necessarily on used oil. This is no longer a 0W-40 oil. The good low temperature behavior of a 0W-40 comes with downsides; the main one being shear stability.
Originally Posted By: Rolf
Originally Posted By: FZ1
I think the Oem's spec at least a 10w. I run 10w-40 HP4.
The first number is only relevant for cold starts. At operating temperature a 0W-40 performs like a 10W-40, a 0W-20 like a 5W-20, and so on.
On virgin oil, that's true, but not necessarily on used oil. This is no longer a 0W-40 oil. The good low temperature behavior of a 0W-40 comes with downsides; the main one being shear stability.
Originally Posted By: JAG
On virgin oil, that's true, but not necessarily on used oil. This is no longer a 0W-40 oil. The good low temperature behavior of a 0W-40 comes with downsides; the main one being shear stability.
What you're saying is that an oil that doesn't stay in grade may present some problems.
Staying in grade and being rated 0W-40 rather than 10W-40 are two separate issues.
It may be that it is harder to make a shear stable 0W-40 than a shear stable 10W-40, but you'd have to evaluate each product on its own merits.
On virgin oil, that's true, but not necessarily on used oil. This is no longer a 0W-40 oil. The good low temperature behavior of a 0W-40 comes with downsides; the main one being shear stability.
What you're saying is that an oil that doesn't stay in grade may present some problems.
Staying in grade and being rated 0W-40 rather than 10W-40 are two separate issues.
It may be that it is harder to make a shear stable 0W-40 than a shear stable 10W-40, but you'd have to evaluate each product on its own merits.
Originally Posted By: JAG
5W-40 Rotella T should maintain significantly higher viscosity. It starts out higher and it loses less viscosity from shearing.
Originally Posted By: Rolf
Originally Posted By: FZ1
I think the Oem's spec at least a 10w. I run 10w-40 HP4.
The first number is only relevant for cold starts. At operating temperature a 0W-40 performs like a 10W-40, a 0W-20 like a 5W-20, and so on.
On virgin oil, that's true, but not necessarily on used oil. This is no longer a 0W-40 oil. The good low temperature behavior of a 0W-40 comes with downsides; the main one being shear stability.
Right. I chose the 0W looking for more flow on cold starts, however I didn't anticipate the rate at which it looses viscosity. I suppose I could continue to use it as long as I don't go more then 1000 miles between oil changes.
Would any 5W40 be more shear stable or is there something special about Rotella T?
5W-40 Rotella T should maintain significantly higher viscosity. It starts out higher and it loses less viscosity from shearing.
Originally Posted By: Rolf
Originally Posted By: FZ1
I think the Oem's spec at least a 10w. I run 10w-40 HP4.
The first number is only relevant for cold starts. At operating temperature a 0W-40 performs like a 10W-40, a 0W-20 like a 5W-20, and so on.
On virgin oil, that's true, but not necessarily on used oil. This is no longer a 0W-40 oil. The good low temperature behavior of a 0W-40 comes with downsides; the main one being shear stability.
Right. I chose the 0W looking for more flow on cold starts, however I didn't anticipate the rate at which it looses viscosity. I suppose I could continue to use it as long as I don't go more then 1000 miles between oil changes.
Would any 5W40 be more shear stable or is there something special about Rotella T?
Originally Posted By: motovelo
I chose the 0W looking for more flow on cold starts, however I didn't anticipate the rate at which it looses viscosity. I suppose I could continue to use it as long as I don't go more then 1000 miles between oil changes.
Would any 5W40 be more shear stable or is there something special about Rotella T?
The problem is that the 0W-40 is an automotive oil, European spec, and the polymer they use to get the "40" is shearing.
To give you some idea of how they formulate these, the 10W-40 Mobil 1 motorcycle oil is a blend of two synthetic stocks to get the multi-weight with just bit of VI boosting polymer.
It's very shear stable.
You can take a look at UOAs and see which automotive and diesel oils shear over time.
I chose the 0W looking for more flow on cold starts, however I didn't anticipate the rate at which it looses viscosity. I suppose I could continue to use it as long as I don't go more then 1000 miles between oil changes.
Would any 5W40 be more shear stable or is there something special about Rotella T?
The problem is that the 0W-40 is an automotive oil, European spec, and the polymer they use to get the "40" is shearing.
To give you some idea of how they formulate these, the 10W-40 Mobil 1 motorcycle oil is a blend of two synthetic stocks to get the multi-weight with just bit of VI boosting polymer.
It's very shear stable.
You can take a look at UOAs and see which automotive and diesel oils shear over time.
stay away from mobil 1. every one of their products i've tested shears down pretty fast. now, not as fast as say castrol, but fast.
i would HIGHLY recommend Maxima 4 Extra 15w50 or maybe even the 10w40. or Motul 5100 10w50. if you want a truely good synth.
my srt 5w40 test seems to have been lost by the usps.
i would HIGHLY recommend Maxima 4 Extra 15w50 or maybe even the 10w40. or Motul 5100 10w50. if you want a truely good synth.
my srt 5w40 test seems to have been lost by the usps.
M1 0W-40 is a pretty good oil, but it shears a lot in even the most easy going automotive engine.
If you want a good 10W-40 synthetic with low shear and great wear numbers, try Amsoil 10W-40 MCF
If you want a good 10W-40 synthetic with low shear and great wear numbers, try Amsoil 10W-40 MCF
Originally Posted By: sunruh
stay away from mobil 1. every one of their products i've tested shears down pretty fast. now, not as fast as say castrol, but fast.
i would HIGHLY recommend Maxima 4 Extra 15w50 or maybe even the 10w40. or Motul 5100 10w50. if you want a truely good synth.
my srt 5w40 test seems to have been lost by the usps.
I've used Motul in the past (smells so good), however I just can't get past the price. As a matter of fact most of the motorcycle specific oils are dear which has led me on a search for a high quality yet reasonably priced oil. $7.00 litre / quart is just about my limit.
stay away from mobil 1. every one of their products i've tested shears down pretty fast. now, not as fast as say castrol, but fast.
i would HIGHLY recommend Maxima 4 Extra 15w50 or maybe even the 10w40. or Motul 5100 10w50. if you want a truely good synth.
my srt 5w40 test seems to have been lost by the usps.
I've used Motul in the past (smells so good), however I just can't get past the price. As a matter of fact most of the motorcycle specific oils are dear which has led me on a search for a high quality yet reasonably priced oil. $7.00 litre / quart is just about my limit.
well if you want a non-wallet hurting price.
Supertech 15w40 ci-4 rated
followed by SRT 15w40 cj-4 rated
about $7 and $8 per gallon. go 1500 miles on it and test it.
what you save on initial price you can then spend on a test.
Supertech 15w40 ci-4 rated
followed by SRT 15w40 cj-4 rated
about $7 and $8 per gallon. go 1500 miles on it and test it.
what you save on initial price you can then spend on a test.
oh for the luv of blue sky.
i have totally killed MC oils in less than 100 miles.
the "motorcycle specific" branding dont mean c r a p!
i have totally killed MC oils in less than 100 miles.
the "motorcycle specific" branding dont mean c r a p!
sunruh, MC oils are indeed very different than today's PCMO's.
Quote:
Product Description
These thickeners can shear down and lose their thickening capacity in an operating engine or transmission. Synthetic fluids, however, do not require much thickener to achieve a multigrade viscosity rating and, in some cases, do not require any thickener. As a result synthetic formulations will provide a more shear stable and protective oil film for engine bearings, piston rings, transmission gears and other critical engine parts. than a conventional oil of a similar viscosity grade.
Both Mobil 1 Motorcycle formulations offer excellent flow characteristics at low temperatures to reduce engine wear at start-up, and outstanding resistance to oxidation and/or volatilization at high temperatures, both of which degrade the oil. Further, the Mobil 1 Motorcycle Oils provide outstanding protection against engine wear under high-temperature and high engine speed conditions. Each of the Mobil 1 Motorcycle product formulations have been optimized to meet the unique performance characteristics demanded by motorcycle engines and thus, provide a higher level of performance and protection for motorcycle engines than even the Mobil 1 Automotive engine oils.
Features and Benefits
Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 and Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50 4-cycle motorcycle oils
Maximum shear stability to resist viscosity shear down in high performance engines and transmissions
Exceptional thermal stability to resist oxidation and high-temperature degradation
Outstanding protection against wear of engine and transmission components
Enhanced lubrication to help maintain maximum power and acceleration over the life of the engine
Optimized wet-clutch performance , meets JASO MA
Excellent low temperature flow characteristics to help minimize engine wear during start-up
Mobil's website acknowledges the advantages/differences between M1 and M1 MC oils.
M1 0w-40 HT/HS 3.7
M1 10w-40 HT/HS 4.6 FP - 487F
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/NAUSENPVLMOMobil1_Motorcycle_Oils.asp
As you can see M1 MC oils are much different than their PCMOs. M1 15w-50 would be more like a true MC oil.
Run any modern 0w/5w-40 and watch it shear. RL might be the only shear stable 5w40 that might not shear as bad in a MC application. Notice the increased shear stability with Amsoil MC oisl vs their own 5w40 AFL that has a HT/HS of 3.7.
Quote:
Product Description
These thickeners can shear down and lose their thickening capacity in an operating engine or transmission. Synthetic fluids, however, do not require much thickener to achieve a multigrade viscosity rating and, in some cases, do not require any thickener. As a result synthetic formulations will provide a more shear stable and protective oil film for engine bearings, piston rings, transmission gears and other critical engine parts. than a conventional oil of a similar viscosity grade.
Both Mobil 1 Motorcycle formulations offer excellent flow characteristics at low temperatures to reduce engine wear at start-up, and outstanding resistance to oxidation and/or volatilization at high temperatures, both of which degrade the oil. Further, the Mobil 1 Motorcycle Oils provide outstanding protection against engine wear under high-temperature and high engine speed conditions. Each of the Mobil 1 Motorcycle product formulations have been optimized to meet the unique performance characteristics demanded by motorcycle engines and thus, provide a higher level of performance and protection for motorcycle engines than even the Mobil 1 Automotive engine oils.
Features and Benefits
Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 and Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50 4-cycle motorcycle oils
Maximum shear stability to resist viscosity shear down in high performance engines and transmissions
Exceptional thermal stability to resist oxidation and high-temperature degradation
Outstanding protection against wear of engine and transmission components
Enhanced lubrication to help maintain maximum power and acceleration over the life of the engine
Optimized wet-clutch performance , meets JASO MA
Excellent low temperature flow characteristics to help minimize engine wear during start-up
Mobil's website acknowledges the advantages/differences between M1 and M1 MC oils.
M1 0w-40 HT/HS 3.7
M1 10w-40 HT/HS 4.6 FP - 487F
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/NAUSENPVLMOMobil1_Motorcycle_Oils.asp
As you can see M1 MC oils are much different than their PCMOs. M1 15w-50 would be more like a true MC oil.
Run any modern 0w/5w-40 and watch it shear. RL might be the only shear stable 5w40 that might not shear as bad in a MC application. Notice the increased shear stability with Amsoil MC oisl vs their own 5w40 AFL that has a HT/HS of 3.7.
One word to describe motorcycle oils; M-A-R-K-E-T-I-N-G. It's the same reason why K&N think they make the best air filters.
If motorcycle oil is the best oil for bikes, why is this sample of Golden Spectro 4 20W-50 now a 30 weight oil under 2000 miles?
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...true#Post734672
Here is also a sample of Mobil 10W-40 MC oil that sheared as well.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=721616&fpart=1
If motorcycle oil is the best oil for bikes, why is this sample of Golden Spectro 4 20W-50 now a 30 weight oil under 2000 miles?
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...true#Post734672
Here is also a sample of Mobil 10W-40 MC oil that sheared as well.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=721616&fpart=1
Originally Posted By: sunruh
well if you want a non-wallet hurting price.
Supertech 15w40 ci-4 rated
followed by SRT 15w40 cj-4 rated
about $7 and $8 per gallon. go 1500 miles on it and test it.
what you save on initial price you can then spend on a test.
I'm not a total cheapskate but I do like the price. Will I still get the cold start protection with a 15W? The OEM recommends 10W30.
well if you want a non-wallet hurting price.
Supertech 15w40 ci-4 rated
followed by SRT 15w40 cj-4 rated
about $7 and $8 per gallon. go 1500 miles on it and test it.
what you save on initial price you can then spend on a test.
I'm not a total cheapskate but I do like the price. Will I still get the cold start protection with a 15W? The OEM recommends 10W30.
Originally Posted By: buster
sunruh, MC oils are indeed very different than today's PCMO's.
Quote:
Product Description
These thickeners can shear down and lose their thickening capacity in an operating engine or transmission. Synthetic fluids, however, do not require much thickener to achieve a multigrade viscosity rating and, in some cases, do not require any thickener. As a result synthetic formulations will provide a more shear stable and protective oil film for engine bearings, piston rings, transmission gears and other critical engine parts. than a conventional oil of a similar viscosity grade.
Each of the Mobil 1 Motorcycle product formulations have been optimized to meet the unique performance characteristics demanded by motorcycle engines and thus, provide a higher level of performance and protection for motorcycle engines than even the Mobil 1 Automotive engine oils.
Features and Benefits
Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 and Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50 4-cycle motorcycle oils
Maximum shear stability to resist viscosity shear down in high performance engines and transmissions
Exceptional thermal stability to resist oxidation and high-temperature degradation
Outstanding protection against wear of engine and transmission components
Enhanced lubrication to help maintain maximum power and acceleration over the life of the engine
Optimized wet-clutch performance , meets JASO MA
Excellent low temperature flow characteristics to help minimize engine wear during start-up
Mobil's website acknowledges the advantages/differences between M1 and M1 MC oils.
M1 0w-40 HT/HS 3.7
M1 10w-40 HT/HS 4.6 FP - 487F
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/NAUSENPVLMOMobil1_Motorcycle_Oils.asp
As you can see M1 MC oils are much different than their PCMOs. M1 15w-50 would be more like a true MC oil.
Run any modern 0w/5w-40 and watch it shear. RL might be the only shear stable 5w40 that might not shear as bad in a MC application. Notice the increased shear stability with Amsoil MC oisl vs their own 5w40 AFL that has a HT/HS of 3.7.
That is called advertisement...As gentle as I can tell you, let me inform you that the HTHS conclusions you've come to aren't accurate...First of all HTHS is not the same measurement as "sus vis at 100 and 210 degrees" that you see has dropped so much in his oil analysis....And you're comparing numbers of a 0W40 compared to a 10W40...More than likely, he sheared out of grade so fast showing a low "sus vis" number because he used an oil with a very high viscosity range...
A 0W40 is going to have more of those "thickeners" as described in the Mobil advertisement that causes an oil to shear down faster because of the wider range between the two weights...A 0W40 will shear out of grade and will likely show a lower "sus vis" number much quicker under the same conditions than a 10W40...
Generally speaking, if you have two group IV oils the one with the wider weight range will not hold it's viscosity as long as an oil with a tighter weight range...True a synthetic often needs less "thickeners" and maintains its viscosity than a conventional oil, but that has nothing to do with it being a "motorcycle oil", it has to do with the quality and the viscosity range of the base oil...
Higher HTHS numbers has more to do with the viscosity and oil group than anything else...Not all 10W40's have the same viscosity, there is a range they have to fall into to qualify for that weight and the heavier ones tend to have higher HTHS numbers... That's why you will see that 20W50's have very high HTHS numbers...It has to do with the WEIGHT more than anything else...All things being equal,if you have two group 2 oils of same grade, the 10W40 that's at higher end of the range will generally have a higher HTHS numbers...
Pennzoil conventional car oil 10W40 has a HTHS of 4.1...The 20W50 has a HTHS of 5.3...Both are conventional oils but the HTHS difference is due to the weight...After weight, the group the oil belongs to makes a bigger differences...A conventional group 2 10W40 will need more VII's than a group IV 10W40...Because of this the sus vis number will likely read much lower quicker after use under the same conditions...
If you have two 10W40's that are of the same group such as a group 4 , more than likely if one oil has a higher HTHS it will likely be due to one being at the higher end of the acceptable range of being qualified as a 10W40. Being a "motorcycle oil" has nothing to do with the difference.
sunruh, MC oils are indeed very different than today's PCMO's.
Quote:
Product Description
These thickeners can shear down and lose their thickening capacity in an operating engine or transmission. Synthetic fluids, however, do not require much thickener to achieve a multigrade viscosity rating and, in some cases, do not require any thickener. As a result synthetic formulations will provide a more shear stable and protective oil film for engine bearings, piston rings, transmission gears and other critical engine parts. than a conventional oil of a similar viscosity grade.
Each of the Mobil 1 Motorcycle product formulations have been optimized to meet the unique performance characteristics demanded by motorcycle engines and thus, provide a higher level of performance and protection for motorcycle engines than even the Mobil 1 Automotive engine oils.
Features and Benefits
Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 and Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50 4-cycle motorcycle oils
Maximum shear stability to resist viscosity shear down in high performance engines and transmissions
Exceptional thermal stability to resist oxidation and high-temperature degradation
Outstanding protection against wear of engine and transmission components
Enhanced lubrication to help maintain maximum power and acceleration over the life of the engine
Optimized wet-clutch performance , meets JASO MA
Excellent low temperature flow characteristics to help minimize engine wear during start-up
Mobil's website acknowledges the advantages/differences between M1 and M1 MC oils.
M1 0w-40 HT/HS 3.7
M1 10w-40 HT/HS 4.6 FP - 487F
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/NAUSENPVLMOMobil1_Motorcycle_Oils.asp
As you can see M1 MC oils are much different than their PCMOs. M1 15w-50 would be more like a true MC oil.
Run any modern 0w/5w-40 and watch it shear. RL might be the only shear stable 5w40 that might not shear as bad in a MC application. Notice the increased shear stability with Amsoil MC oisl vs their own 5w40 AFL that has a HT/HS of 3.7.
That is called advertisement...As gentle as I can tell you, let me inform you that the HTHS conclusions you've come to aren't accurate...First of all HTHS is not the same measurement as "sus vis at 100 and 210 degrees" that you see has dropped so much in his oil analysis....And you're comparing numbers of a 0W40 compared to a 10W40...More than likely, he sheared out of grade so fast showing a low "sus vis" number because he used an oil with a very high viscosity range...
A 0W40 is going to have more of those "thickeners" as described in the Mobil advertisement that causes an oil to shear down faster because of the wider range between the two weights...A 0W40 will shear out of grade and will likely show a lower "sus vis" number much quicker under the same conditions than a 10W40...
Generally speaking, if you have two group IV oils the one with the wider weight range will not hold it's viscosity as long as an oil with a tighter weight range...True a synthetic often needs less "thickeners" and maintains its viscosity than a conventional oil, but that has nothing to do with it being a "motorcycle oil", it has to do with the quality and the viscosity range of the base oil...
Higher HTHS numbers has more to do with the viscosity and oil group than anything else...Not all 10W40's have the same viscosity, there is a range they have to fall into to qualify for that weight and the heavier ones tend to have higher HTHS numbers... That's why you will see that 20W50's have very high HTHS numbers...It has to do with the WEIGHT more than anything else...All things being equal,if you have two group 2 oils of same grade, the 10W40 that's at higher end of the range will generally have a higher HTHS numbers...
Pennzoil conventional car oil 10W40 has a HTHS of 4.1...The 20W50 has a HTHS of 5.3...Both are conventional oils but the HTHS difference is due to the weight...After weight, the group the oil belongs to makes a bigger differences...A conventional group 2 10W40 will need more VII's than a group IV 10W40...Because of this the sus vis number will likely read much lower quicker after use under the same conditions...
If you have two 10W40's that are of the same group such as a group 4 , more than likely if one oil has a higher HTHS it will likely be due to one being at the higher end of the acceptable range of being qualified as a 10W40. Being a "motorcycle oil" has nothing to do with the difference.
Originally Posted By: motovelo
I'm not a total cheapskate but I do like the price. Will I still get the cold start protection with a 15W? The OEM recommends 10W30.
Since 10W-30 is recommended, M1 0W-40 has you covered since it becomes a 0W-30 after your blender, I mean motorcycle, shears it up.
It is pricey though. I also don't think that counting on an oil to shear down several cst's to become the correct viscosity is wise.
Why not use a 10W-30 oil? You could either use a synthetic 10W-30 or a conventional 10W-30 Heavy Duty Engine Oil (HDEO) like Rotella T 10W-30. The former are easier to find and it's what I'd use as long as shifting feel felt good with it. These oils will start out with less viscosity than Mobil 1 0W-40 but will not lose as much viscosity so the used condition viscosities will be similar.
I wish I could make good comments on the wear metals in your UOA but I don't know what's normal in this motorcycle. The high ratio of aluminum to iron is interesting. Does anyone have an explanation for that?
I'm not a total cheapskate but I do like the price. Will I still get the cold start protection with a 15W? The OEM recommends 10W30.
Since 10W-30 is recommended, M1 0W-40 has you covered since it becomes a 0W-30 after your blender, I mean motorcycle, shears it up.
It is pricey though. I also don't think that counting on an oil to shear down several cst's to become the correct viscosity is wise.Why not use a 10W-30 oil? You could either use a synthetic 10W-30 or a conventional 10W-30 Heavy Duty Engine Oil (HDEO) like Rotella T 10W-30. The former are easier to find and it's what I'd use as long as shifting feel felt good with it. These oils will start out with less viscosity than Mobil 1 0W-40 but will not lose as much viscosity so the used condition viscosities will be similar.
I wish I could make good comments on the wear metals in your UOA but I don't know what's normal in this motorcycle. The high ratio of aluminum to iron is interesting. Does anyone have an explanation for that?
Originally Posted By: motovelo
Originally Posted By: sunruh
well if you want a non-wallet hurting price.
Supertech 15w40 ci-4 rated
followed by SRT 15w40 cj-4 rated
about $7 and $8 per gallon. go 1500 miles on it and test it.
what you save on initial price you can then spend on a test.
I'm not a total cheapskate but I do like the price. Will I still get the cold start protection with a 15W? The OEM recommends 10W30.
how much cold flow do you need in California?
Rotella 15w40 or 5w40 is great
Originally Posted By: sunruh
well if you want a non-wallet hurting price.
Supertech 15w40 ci-4 rated
followed by SRT 15w40 cj-4 rated
about $7 and $8 per gallon. go 1500 miles on it and test it.
what you save on initial price you can then spend on a test.
I'm not a total cheapskate but I do like the price. Will I still get the cold start protection with a 15W? The OEM recommends 10W30.
how much cold flow do you need in California?
Rotella 15w40 or 5w40 is great
Originally Posted By: JAG
Originally Posted By: motovelo
I'm not a total cheapskate but I do like the price. Will I still get the cold start protection with a 15W? The OEM recommends 10W30.
Since 10W-30 is recommended, M1 0W-40 has you covered since it becomes a 0W-30 after your blender, I mean motorcycle, shears it up. It is pricey though. I also don't think that counting on an oil to shear down several cst's to become the correct viscosity is wise.
Why not use a 10W-30 oil? You could either use a synthetic 10W-30 or a conventional 10W-30 Heavy Duty Engine Oil (HDEO) like Rotella T 10W-30. The former are easier to find and it's what I'd use as long as shifting feel felt good with it. These oils will start out with less viscosity than Mobil 1 0W-40 but will not lose as much viscosity so the used condition viscosities will be similar.
I wish I could make good comments on the wear metals in your UOA but I don't know what's normal in this motorcycle. The high ratio of aluminum to iron is interesting. Does anyone have an explanation for that?
Summer temps here in Fresno can get quite high (110F / 43C) and I do the occasional track day so I like the idea of the 40W... SRT 5W40 in the summer and a 0W30 in the winter? Does that make sense?
Originally Posted By: motovelo
I'm not a total cheapskate but I do like the price. Will I still get the cold start protection with a 15W? The OEM recommends 10W30.
Since 10W-30 is recommended, M1 0W-40 has you covered since it becomes a 0W-30 after your blender, I mean motorcycle, shears it up.
It is pricey though. I also don't think that counting on an oil to shear down several cst's to become the correct viscosity is wise.Why not use a 10W-30 oil? You could either use a synthetic 10W-30 or a conventional 10W-30 Heavy Duty Engine Oil (HDEO) like Rotella T 10W-30. The former are easier to find and it's what I'd use as long as shifting feel felt good with it. These oils will start out with less viscosity than Mobil 1 0W-40 but will not lose as much viscosity so the used condition viscosities will be similar.
I wish I could make good comments on the wear metals in your UOA but I don't know what's normal in this motorcycle. The high ratio of aluminum to iron is interesting. Does anyone have an explanation for that?
Summer temps here in Fresno can get quite high (110F / 43C) and I do the occasional track day so I like the idea of the 40W... SRT 5W40 in the summer and a 0W30 in the winter? Does that make sense?
- Status
