I have a '74 Super Beetle. The engine is a brand new crate engine from Mexico which is a 1600cc and varies from stock in that it has hydraulic lifters and uses a real spin-on oil filter, the one that many watercooled VWs use to this day. I have about 10,000 miles on it and broke it in on whatever cheap 15-40 oils I could find. I now want to start running synthetic in it. I plan on running Mobil 1 oil filter # M1-205 and Mobil 1 15-50. How does this combo sound to everyone?
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle
- Thread starter Ben Boyle
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Sounds like pampered bug to me. I don't know but aren't air cooled engines harder on their oil the water cooled?
Can I suggest an oil analysis to ensure Mobil 1 abilities.
Can I suggest an oil analysis to ensure Mobil 1 abilities.
If the engine is air-cooled it will run hotter, 15w-50 Mobil 1 sounds like a perfect fit to me.
There are local hot spots in your air cooled engine that get really warm. 5-50 M1 would be great.
The car is a fair weather car and only sees use in warmer weather. It's put away for the year in snowy Michigan but I've been pondering what I am going to run in it for this coming summer. A summer driving season is around 3,000 miles on it and I generally change the oil each spring. I will always run my OCI on the conservative side because while this engine is slightly more modern than most aircooled VW engines it still is fairly open to the environment compared to more modern engines.
I guess it is pampered, here's a pic
[ December 14, 2004, 01:02 AM: Message edited by: Ben Boyle ]
I guess it is pampered, here's a pic
[ December 14, 2004, 01:02 AM: Message edited by: Ben Boyle ]
That is a very nice looking beetle. I miss mine(first car)so easy to work on and took an ungoddly amount of abuse, but not neglect. Without hydraulic lifters and a spin on filter I always kept to 2000 mile intervals between oil changes and valve adjustments. I ran the 10 w 40 Castrol GTX back in the 80's when it first came out. I had an oversized weber carb loose it's gasket seal at the beach once and do to the sand I am sure it ingested I had to replace the engine and clutch a week later do to the rear(front actually
) seal developing a leak. Had to fix it on a school night and I went back to a stock sized carb and an oil bath after that. (Don't get me started on how I learned you should remember which side the ring gear comes out when you remove it to replace axle seals.)
Is the V-twin really necessary though? I know that Porsche recommended regular Mobil 1 in their older aircooled cars. The engine in my car is identical to those that were used in the cars that were sold in Mexico until last year and I doubt any of them are getting synthetic oil.
Here's a pic of what my engine looks like, you can clearly see the oil filter too.
Here's a pic of what my engine looks like, you can clearly see the oil filter too.
I would be more inclined to run Mobil-1 "Truck & SUV" 5W-40 rather than the thicker 15W-50. With such a fresh tight engine I don't see why the 50 weight would be needed, and generally the thiner oils do a better job of heat transfer. Your VW engine is almost as much oil cooled as it is air cooled, so heat transfer ability would seem to be a high priority.
Also, I would change the oil *before* putting 'er away for the winter. No sense leaving whatever contaminants have accumulated in the oil in there for the whole winter's rest.
John
PS That is one pretty time machine. Takes me back to high school
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Also, I would change the oil *before* putting 'er away for the winter. No sense leaving whatever contaminants have accumulated in the oil in there for the whole winter's rest.
John
PS That is one pretty time machine. Takes me back to high school
I guess I should have been more specific. I change the oil in the fall and spring. But I figure the Super Tech 5-30 that's in it right now is inconsequential. The engine has never been started with that oil, and never will. I just poured it in because I had some leftover from a jug from changing the oil on a beater and I figured oil is oil when it's just sitting in an non-running engine.
[ December 14, 2004, 06:58 PM: Message edited by: Ben Boyle ]
[ December 14, 2004, 06:58 PM: Message edited by: Ben Boyle ]
An old 1973 general repair manual I have mentions that VWs of that period called for 30w in most climates, and straight 20w or 10w (obsolete weights) for progressively colder climates. Can't speak as to the similarities between your new crate engine and those from the 60's/70s.
What were the factory recommended oil weights for Mexican-market Bugs in recent years, per season/temps? This should be easy to determine on the Net. Or call a couple reputable Bug shops in any frigid climate for advice.
[ December 15, 2004, 02:24 AM: Message edited by: TC ]
What were the factory recommended oil weights for Mexican-market Bugs in recent years, per season/temps? This should be easy to determine on the Net. Or call a couple reputable Bug shops in any frigid climate for advice.
[ December 15, 2004, 02:24 AM: Message edited by: TC ]
Volkswagen of Mexico recommends 15-40 in the summer. Alot of VW people on the net seems to like 20-50. That's why I was thinking that 15-50 would be be a good compromise. Since I only drive the car in warm weather I am less concerned about using the thicker weights.
If 15W-40 is good enough for a Mexican Summer, it is more than good enough for in Michigan Summer.
I would think you'd want to run it once up to temperature to coat all the surfaces with fresh oil?
Never thought that, but I did use some misting oil down the spark plug holes. I also hand turned it a few revoluations. I guess my VW club has made me paranoid because that is what they all do. They are all about avoiding contaminants in the oil and having moisture in the exhaust once they are put away for the year.
I'd say M1 15w50 would be my choice. I have a '65 Corvair, so our engines have the same demands for the oil we put in them. I think any oil that's Xw30 is too thin for an air cooled engine, IMO. I'd be running 15w50 in mine, but it's not very well sealed, so I run 20W50 dino in the summer. I'm guessing your Bug doesn't have any leaks, so I say run the M1 15w50 and go cruisin'!
Hi,
the VW Factory's recommendation of a 15w-40 oil is an excellent one. As mineral mixed fleet HDEO's these perform excellently in air cooled engines. See previous posts on here re VW air cooled engines
An Agricultural oil with a Vapour Phase Inhibitor (such as Castrol's AGRI TRX 1540) will be a very good storage oil and would also be OK for all round use in this engine
I would only consider a mineral HDEO 15w-40 or a synthetic version like Delvac 1 5w-40 for the engine. I have used HD oils since 1950's is these and Porsche engines with great success
Regards
Doug
MY02 Subaru Outback 2.5 manual (Delvac 1)
MY98 BMW Z3 2.8 manual (Delvac 1)
MY89 Porsche 928 S4 Auto (Delvac 1)
the VW Factory's recommendation of a 15w-40 oil is an excellent one. As mineral mixed fleet HDEO's these perform excellently in air cooled engines. See previous posts on here re VW air cooled engines
An Agricultural oil with a Vapour Phase Inhibitor (such as Castrol's AGRI TRX 1540) will be a very good storage oil and would also be OK for all round use in this engine
I would only consider a mineral HDEO 15w-40 or a synthetic version like Delvac 1 5w-40 for the engine. I have used HD oils since 1950's is these and Porsche engines with great success
Regards
Doug
MY02 Subaru Outback 2.5 manual (Delvac 1)
MY98 BMW Z3 2.8 manual (Delvac 1)
MY89 Porsche 928 S4 Auto (Delvac 1)
Hi Shannow,
a Merry Xmas to you too
Good to see that the bastich's are alive and well in Lithgow
Regards
Doug
a Merry Xmas to you too
Good to see that the bastich's are alive and well in Lithgow
Regards
Doug
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