1996 Sable Vulcan Maintenance Questions

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The vehicle is a 1996 Mercury Sable sedan with the Vulcan engine. It has ~ 178k miles on original engine & tranny. What are problem spots on this vehicle?

The spark plugs are called out in the owner's manual as AWSF-32PP. What is the deal with "PP"? It specifically mentions that the replacement plugs must have this suffix. These are long life plugs, correct? What happens if replaced with Denso Iridium? What is the correct spark plug torque?

The coolant is specified as ESE-M97B44-A. This is not long-life coolant. Any reason why I can't use the new AMSOIL propylene glycol here? Is the t-stat easy to replace? I haven't even looked for it yet. It seems like a good time to replace.

ATF is specified as MERCON ATF so I'll use AMSOIL ATF here. What is the correct torque value for the pan bolts? I assume it has a replaceable pan filter (felt type?) - any recommendations & tips? How many quarts will I need to do a pan drop?

Power steering is specified as MERCON ATF so I'll use AMSOIL ATF here as well. I plan on a quart.

What is the correct lug nut torque spec?

Anything special about Ford's brake fluid spec ESA-M6C25-A? Just any DOT3/4?

The fuel filter p/n is FG-800-A. Any recommendations or tips for replacement?

The PCV valve p/n is EV-228. Any brand recommendations and tips?

I have considered the Akebono ProACT ceramic pads for the front brakes. Any problems with that or better suggestions - please back it up at least somewhat.
 
On a '96, verify the coolant bypass recall has been done, other than that the engine is bulletproof. If the recall had not been done, you would likely know it.

PP= double platinum, electrode and ground. The original plugs are likely -PE or -PG suffix plugs. The -PP are the replacements for them. Go OEM motorcraft for plugs.

As long as the cooling system is properly flushed, long life coolant should be fine. The t-stat is fairly easy to get to, as is just about everything on that engine. Once again, either OUM Motorcraft or Stant for t-stat.

Trans- the AX4N has a metal core rubber gasket, the AX4S might still have a cork pan gasket,but I think by that year it also had a metal/rubber setup. 10ft/lb is spec for the pan bolts with the rubber gasket, cork gasket bolt torque is common sense. I think ~ 6 quarts of ATF should cover a pan drop.

Lugs- 95-100 ft/lb

PCV- OEM Motorcraft

Fuel filter- A pick/pick set is nice to have to pull out the plastic retainer clips. Install the new plastic retaining clips before you attach the fuel lines. Gasoline in your armpit is unpleasant.
 
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How do I verify that the coolant bypass recall has been done w/o the dealer?

I could also use the ATE PremiumOne pads. The rear pads appear to be in good shape (only checked the left rear this morning). What is the correct brake bleed/flush procedure/order?
 
Get your VIN, call the dealer and ask a service writer. If it has been done they will have record of it on their computer system. Chances are if it wasn't done, you would have had serious problems by now.

No particular bleed order, I usually bled the rear first. If you have ABS, and you let the m-cyl run dry while changing calipers/bleeding, you might have problems.
 
Thanks for the help.

I am looking at replacing all the rubber hoses as well. There appears to be a lot of rubber under that hood with all those heater hoses.

Should the cabin filter be particulate or carbon? Why? AutoZone has both from Bosch.

The AMSOIL guide gives WIX 58815 if deep pan and WIX 58822 if shallow pan. How is this determined for the AT?

What is coolant capacity for a simple drain & refill? I'll have 1-2 gallons on hand (not the premix kind!).
 
Motorcraft are excellent spark plugs. Like mentioned, the PP is double platinum. The car uses a waste spark ignition, and two plugs fire at once. One +to-, and the other -to+.
The double plat insures practically no electrode wear on the tip or side , no matter which hole it is screwed into.

Head gaskets, and intake gaskets can be problematic.
 
Originally Posted By: benjamming
I could also use the ATE PremiumOne pads. The rear pads appear to be in good shape (only checked the left rear this morning). What is the correct brake bleed/flush procedure/order?


AKEBONO PROACT pads are fine. Centric Posi-Quiet Ceramic and Extended Wears work well also according to Zeckhausen Racing and my indepedent mechanic. alanu has had a great success with Raybestos' Professional Grade ceramic.

Usually the furthest to closest sequence works fine for brake flushing. You should change the brake fluid, then follow-up with a manual bleed for best pedal feel:

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bleeding_brakes.htm
 
He says that gravity bleeding brakes is not as good. I don't believe this is true b/c I don't understand why. Please explain. When bleeding brakes, does it matter if the line is not submerged in brake fluid? Is this requirement dependent upon method used for bleeding brakes? The link doesn't mention this.

Any special tools needed for changing the fuel filter? What kind of fitting is utilized? Is it a simple manually pull off & push back on like on my '94 Grand Am?
 
FORD has a TSB that says that Mercon V is approved and is the official replacement for Mercon.
This TSB supercedes earlier TSB's that said to use ONLY Mercon.
So....you will be fine with Mercon OR Mercon V fluid.
I would recommend a synthetic.....Mobil 1 is an easy to find synthetic....and you can use this in both your tranny and power steering.

Keeping the tranny fluid changed at least every 30K miles is hightly recommended.
My '96 windstar has the re-usable rubber coated tranny pan gasket.......much better than the cork kind....so stick with the re-usable if you have one.

Spark plugs, as already mentioned, you need the double platinum plugs.....with the platinum on BOTH the center electrode AND the ground tab.
At this time, ONLY Motorcraft and Autolite brand names carry them.

FORD also has a TSB advising NOT to use Propylene-Glycol type coolants.....as they have not tested and certified them.
I switched my '96 3.8L windstar over to G-05 coolant (available under the Zerex G-05 and Motorcraft Gold names).
FORD went to the G-05 coolant in the newer versions of our vehicles.
I would strongly recommend changing the coolant.....and use either one of these 2 types.
Check your radiator cap to verify that it is holding pressure.
Replace with same pressure cap, if needed.

You might consider replacement of the thermostat, if original or old.

I have used the Akebono Pro-Act pads with good results.
Bleeding the brake fluid at each wheel is also highly recommended at LEAST every other year.

FORD has also issued a TSB stating that 5W-20 oil is recommended for most all of our '96 vehicles.......yours is on the list.
Your owner's manual most likely lists 5W-30.
I would stay with either 5W-20 or the 5W-30.

Don't forget the fuel filter, most likely up under the car....near the drivers side rear wheel.
 
Noted on the plugs. Motorcraft plugs it is.

Thermostat will be replaced with either 190-195°F (192°F maybe) Stant Super Stat or possibly even Motorcraft.

Fuel filter will be replaced. It is in front of the rear passenger side wheel.

Indeed there are a bunch of rubber hoses - 9 in all. I will go with Gates or Goodyear. Which ones are difficult to deal with and may result in not so much fun? Anyone have a diagram with the complete hose layout?

Upper hose
Lower hose
Pipe 2 to thermostat
Intake manifold to throttle body
Heater to pipe 1
Pipe 1 to water pump
Heater to Pipe 2
Pipe 1 to pipe 2
Reservoir to pipe 3
 
I received a hose diagram from the local Mercury/Lincoln dealership which was very helpful especially compared to the local Ford dealership.

The dealership can't go back more than 10 years to see if the coolant bypass recall has been performed.

The transmission pan is missing of the 17 bolts. What are the bolt specs - type and size?

It also has code P0430.
 
Wow overwelming amount of questions! benjamming has good advice. I use the Motorcraft Double plats and they work well. I have a 98 and Daughter has a 96 vulcan Taurus.

I have been using the new Amsoil coolant and older Amsoil formulation in Dodge and Fords. They say not to use it because it has not been tested. Yah right..........I use Propylene with no problems in both makes.

I was using Sierra before and then Amsoil the last 12 years with good success.

Go to the dealer and have them print out the TSB. For each year through 96-98 they were all done a little different. You should have a bypass hose between the heater core hoses.

They also have you knock out a front freeze plug to flush the block and replace with a screw in o-ring freeze plug. I knocked them out on two 96 Taurus vulcans and there was a lot of rust and junk in the block.

If one of the freeze plugs on the front is a chrome looking one with a screw in the middle the TSB has probably been done. If not you might want to have get it done to keep from blowing a head gasket etc.

I would say the cooling system/coolant bottles (cracks) and some vulcans being prone to spark knock. No knock sensor. Other than that they are a pretty decent engine.
 
A p0430 is a catalyst efficiency code, bank 2 (front bank on your car). That pretty much means you have a cat that is bad. I have yet to run across a cat monitor going bad (it will set a different code) so that code means it is time to look for a new Y pipe/cat assm. Always seems like the front cat is the problem child, I don't know whether it is from road damage or what.

As far as the recall, if you haven't had major cooling system problems by now, its been done. Your pump impeller blades would have corroded off long ago. If you are replacing hoses and t-stat, you have a chance to do a really good reverse flush on that engine to get some of the crud out. Oh, in the cooling system recall there is a restrictor inserted in the fitting on the drivers side of the intake manifold (skinny hose attaches vertically to it) so if that is in there, the recall has been done positively.
 
So, what happens if the cat is not replaced? It blows chunks until the rear cat is plugged? Eastern has a cat for $363. How do I verify for sure prior to purchasing a cat? So, what is the typical code for O2 sensor?
The spark plug wires were changed previously. Part number used was 700941 - POWERMAX according to Rockauto.com.

What's the best way to remove the hose to metal pipe clamps? Cut them off (dremel?) and replace with 5/8(?) fuel injector clamps?

The PCV tube was very hard and brittle. I replaced with fuel injector hose trimmed to length. The PCV valve doesn't seat well in the grommet - neither before or after tube replacement. However, I couldn't find a replacement grommet. Any suggestions?

I'll post pictures later of the spark plugs and filters.

The brake pad replacement went fine along with bleeding out the air. The pedal is much improved. Also I can't feel the ABS kicking in when trying to stop. There was a massive amount of air probably due to what appears to be a master cylinder leak (fluid on firewall) resulting in a low fluid level. Hopefully, the Bosch ABS unit wasn't damaged. Otherwise, the car will just have 'normal' brakes. I don't imagine that an ABS control unit is cheap.

The coolant is low and there is a small puddle on top of the transmission housing.

There is also an oil leak/drip/seepage around the oil drain plug. We'll see if a new oil drain plug gasket/o-ring fixes that problem.

A two-bottle ARX treament is in order for the crankcase. Also, an ARX treatment in the tranny and power steering fluid. The turkey baster method was used for the PSF.
 
If you need to replace a cooling system hose then do them all, including a new thermoststat. The screws on the theromstat cover tend to corrode so be careful, otherwise you'll need to easy-out and/or helicoil.

I'd recommend pulling the throttle body for a good cleaning as the EGR passages and such tend to get blocked. Check the EGR sensor passages for blockage too.

Once the throttle body is off look carefully at the spray patterns below the injectors. If they're different consider replacing some or all of the injectors. If your emmissions has been creeping up, or it's been hard to start or hesitates, all with no relevant codes, also consider replacing some or all of the injectors.
 
Auto parts stores tend to replacement gromments for the PCV valves, the ones I've seen are the evil FRAMs. Rotating the hose connected to the PCV valve will sometimes sit the valve down properly in the gromment.
 
Motorcraft double plats are no longer made. You can get the Motorcraft Fine Wire plugs now but they are not double plats. Autolite still makes double plats or you may be able to find some NOS plugs somewhere.

I would flush the radiator and put in good coolant mixed with distilled water (or deionized) every two years. Every year if the brown sludge shows up n the reservoir. If the reservoir is the OEM black topped one they will crack on the bottom and mysterious leak. You can get aftermarket clear topped ones at most auto parts store. These include a new cap and level sensor.

The Taurus Car Club of America is a good source of info for the Taurus/Sable lines.
 
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