I hate when my wife drags me to all kinds of stores for Christmas shopping (or any other kind of shopping). But yesterday she dragged me to Kohl's and as a result I am the proud owner of a clean 2001 Ranger XLT, 5 speed manual with hand crank windows--just the way I like them. It's a 16-valve 4-banger too! I am going from 14 mpg F150 to 28 mpg (so the book says). Still have to change my signature below. So we park the Mountaineer and there is this ranger for sale with a stick marked 66,000 miles, $3500 or best, so I caught the lady as she was leaving and said I would give her $3000 cash for it. Sweet! It drives wonderfully and has plenty of power.
Greatest Christmas Shopping Trip Ever
- Thread starter TallPaul
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Good score; carefully driven you will get 31-32 highway in the summer.
Which I4 does it actually have?
Which I4 does it actually have?
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That'll teach her to drag you out shopping, huh?
Congrats, sounds like a great score.
Originally Posted By: simple_gifts
Good score; carefully driven you will get 31-32 highway in the summer.
Which I4 does it actually have?
If it's a 16 valve, it must be the Duratec 2.3.
Good score; carefully driven you will get 31-32 highway in the summer.
Which I4 does it actually have?
If it's a 16 valve, it must be the Duratec 2.3.
Nice! I probably would have bought it on the spot too. That's a great deal.
Congrats. Sounds like a good deal on a nice truck. When can we expect to see some pics?
It's a 2.3 L and the only 4-banger available that year. My catalog says it was a new engine for 2001. I could not resist such a great deal on the perfect truck.
I'll get some photos up in the next day or two.
I'll get some photos up in the next day or two.
Actually there were two four bangers in 2001...they started the model year with the 2.5L Lima I4 and half way through the model year switched to the Duratec. I had an October 2000 built 2001 Ranger with the 2.5L. The Duratec is the better option of the two though. It's noticably more powerful than the Lima engine and seems to be just as reliable.
yah, I bought a 600$ 94 Ranger XLT 4x4,4.0 ohv , 5 spd with manual windows. It need s clutch badly. When I fix that it will be a great little 3 rd vehicle. This is my first Ford in 30 yrs. It has a few things I think are stupid, such as the electric tranfer shift and putting the slave cylinder in the bell housing. Butover all it is great little truck
Yeah that slave in the bell housing (concentric on the shaft) sucks.
This 16 valve is very powerful. I believe it also is DOHC. And it says manual lifters in a book I have, how does that work? Don't manual lifters have to be adjusted.
And my mechanic said it is chain drive camshafts and pretty trouble free (whew I always hated the idea of a rubber belt).
Is this an interference engine?
This 16 valve is very powerful. I believe it also is DOHC. And it says manual lifters in a book I have, how does that work? Don't manual lifters have to be adjusted.
And my mechanic said it is chain drive camshafts and pretty trouble free (whew I always hated the idea of a rubber belt).
Is this an interference engine?
Originally Posted By: TallPaul
Yeah that slave in the bell housing (concentric on the shaft) sucks.
This 16 valve is very powerful. I believe it also is DOHC. And it says manual lifters in a book I have, how does that work? Don't manual lifters have to be adjusted.
And my mechanic said it is chain drive camshafts and pretty trouble free (whew I always hated the idea of a rubber belt).
Is this an interference engine?
Dunno about interference or not. DOHC with solid lifters must have a lash adjustment. So there is some sorta rocker arm. I did a refresh on a Honda twin cam 16 valve. even wrong ways to, it was a pretty sight with the cam cover off. The whole trick with belts is to change them before they break. I do my own for about 100$ worth of parts. I generally replace everything I remove when doing the job. The belt kit is about 35$. Chains dont usually break. They do wear out though. What wears fastest in a chain set up are the plastic guides. If a big chunk breaks off, it could jam and derail the chain. So I dont mind spending an afternoon every 60K miles replacing the belt.
Yeah that slave in the bell housing (concentric on the shaft) sucks.
This 16 valve is very powerful. I believe it also is DOHC. And it says manual lifters in a book I have, how does that work? Don't manual lifters have to be adjusted.
And my mechanic said it is chain drive camshafts and pretty trouble free (whew I always hated the idea of a rubber belt).
Is this an interference engine?
Dunno about interference or not. DOHC with solid lifters must have a lash adjustment. So there is some sorta rocker arm. I did a refresh on a Honda twin cam 16 valve. even wrong ways to, it was a pretty sight with the cam cover off. The whole trick with belts is to change them before they break. I do my own for about 100$ worth of parts. I generally replace everything I remove when doing the job. The belt kit is about 35$. Chains dont usually break. They do wear out though. What wears fastest in a chain set up are the plastic guides. If a big chunk breaks off, it could jam and derail the chain. So I dont mind spending an afternoon every 60K miles replacing the belt.
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I did some research and found that they manufactured it to last 150,000 miles without needing valve adjustment. Involved how the metal was treated, matching the valves to the holes, other stuff. We'll see how it works. Yes it is interference. I read that most DOHC performance engines are interference. Oh well, it sure has power, nice pull right off idle all the way up. Sweet!
IMO, The small cab Ranger is a modern Ford 3 window coupe. The kitcar guys have all sorts of replica bodies for S10s but I havent seen any for a Ranger
Hey, I got a buyer for the F150. $1600, looks like he will come through with the cash later today. Not bad for a rusty but well maintained 193,000 truck with a leak over the windshield from rust. That makes the Ranger $1400, sort of.
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