Mobil 1 Syn 5w30, 3292mi, 05 Legacy GT

[fishbone]

Hey everyone, new member here, my very first thread.
Car is a 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Stage 2 which means:
-aftermarket catless uppipe
-gutted first cat on the downpipe
-reflashed with Cobb tuning "off the shelf" Stage 2 map.
Car has almost 60K miles, 3292 miles on Mobil 1 5w30 fully synthetic, OEM oil filter. The entire oil change has been run on Stage 2.
I make it a point to only use Shell V-Power gas or at the very least BP.


Very high copper and lead readings. I currently have GC 0w30 in it, if this oil change comes back with abnormal wear I'm at a loss what to do. I don't push my car hard and no, I've never used "Restore", whatever that means.
The air filter was installed once I drained the oil.
I live in an area with a full mile of unpaved, dirt road up to the house. Well, used to, because we've moved, so now the car will see very little, if any, dust or gravel time.

For comparison, and I hope I don't get in trouble for this, I've compared the oil analys from Blackstone to my previous Dyson. I realize I've introduced a variable by not comparing Blackstone vs Blackstone or Dyson vs Dyson
Here they are, same oil Mobil 1 5w30 synthetic, 5K winter oci vs 3292 summer oci.
Component----Dyson----Blackstone
Iron-------------16-------9
Copper----------28-------21
Tin--------------0--------2
Lead------------22-------18
Chrom-----------1--------1
Nickel-----------1--------0
Alum------------6--------3
Calcium--------2158------2258
Magne----------16-------13
Zinc------------930------766
Phos-----------780-------602
Molyb----------103-------86
Silico-----------19-------15
Sodiu-----------13-------4
Boron-----------54-------50
Potas------------0--------1

Thoughts? I'll switch to Purolator oil filters in the future in the hopes I'll get some better filtration, but how about some good air filters? I don't want the reusable kind.

 

[fishbone]

I'd like to also add that fuel dillution on this showed a lot better than on the winter change. 0.5 vs 1.68
The high fuel dillution could be explained by the fact that during this past winter I'd drive from work at 5PM straight to school less than 3 miles away, during which time the engine would not even fully warm up, in pretty darn cold Nebraska winters in single-digit F figures and for the most part teens. Hopefully the 0w cold weight of the German Castrol will mitigate some of that problem.

 

[Johnny]

to BITOG.

Not sure the GC 0W-30 will pump any better than the Mobil 1 5W-30. What type of air filter do you have on the car? I might suggest using the Amsoil EaA air filter and a EaO oil filter. Both work very well. If you want to try either of them, send a PM to either Pablo or Gary Allen and they can get them for you.

Nice car

Another good oil for you to try would be the Amsoil SSO 0W-30. It is a very good product and might help lower those numbers.

 

[fishbone]

OEM air filter. We'll see if the elimination of off-road driving will have a good/significant impact.
You've mentioned Amsoil oil filters, I've also been told PureOne. Any one better than the other or should I let the price be the deciding factor?

Later edit: I would actually like to stick to disposable air filters rather than the cleanable type.

 

[Johnny]

I figure if you have spent the money to put the Cobb system on there, oil and filter pricing should not be an issue. The EaA air filters are not cleanable. They do a great job of filtering but when it is used up, you replace it.

The EaO oil filter is a lot more expensive than the PureOne, but I personally think it's the best filter going right now. I use Amsoil filters on both of my Hondas and my Jeep. I've been more that satisfied with their performance.

 

[fishbone]

BECAUSE I put the COBB system I am broke, te he he.
I will look for EaO and EaA then for my next oil change.
Thanks!

 

[Johnny]

It's a fun reason to be broke.

Love those Subies.

 

[JSP]

I like the Wix/Napa Gold air filters and the Mobil 1 oil filters. They seem to have good proven filtering efficiencies.

Retest at next OC and hopefully your silicon will drop as well as your wear metals.

 

[Norm Olt]

You might want to try PP 5W-30 once or twice. They claim longer additive life and lower wear. There is a recent thread about these claims and it looks like they may have already reformulated to make the new ILSAC GF-5 spec.

And PP is CHEAP to buy when it ends up at $0.99 after rebate!

Cheers!

 

[SubLGT]

Originally Posted By: fishbone
I'd like to also add that fuel dillution on this showed a lot better than on the winter change. 0.5 vs 1.68...............


These fuel numbers were determined by two totally different methods, and cannot be compared to one another.

Try an oil that can deal with fuel dilution, such as Pennzoil Platinum, or the RLI oils that Dyson has recommended to you.

And consider getting a custom tune to optimize the A/F ratios

 

[Audi Junkie]

Without reading every post, aftermarket uprating of the specific output always calls for heavier oil, even moreso with a turbo unless oil temps are contained somehow.

 

[SubLGT]

Originally Posted By: fishbone
BECAUSE I put the COBB system I am broke, te he he.
I will look for EaO and EaA then for my next oil change.
Thanks!


There is no EaA air filter available for the Legacy.
The EaO oil filter is cost effective if you run it for 10,000 - 15,000 miles, and will filter better as the miles accumulate.

 

[fishbone]

My OCI won't be over 5K so maybe given the cost a M1 filter would be better. I'll look around and see what I can find them for.
Anything that filters better than the OEM filters is fine with me.

 

[TeeDub]

Oil is simply too thin, hence the high bearing wear. Try the Mobil 1, 10w-40/HM formulation.

 

[Solo2driver]

Go to a 40-wt...you are not the first turbo Subie owner to see high lead and copper, only to see it get back under control with a good synthetic 40-wt like M1 10w-40, M1 TDT 5w-40, or RTS 5w-40.

 

[fishbone]

What about a 0w-40 oil, such as the Mobil 1?

 

[JoeFromPA]

Hey fishbone,

Glad you posted on here as well as LGT.com

I think you've gotten solid advice and know what to do....my engine is still at 7k miles, so plenty of break-in left. Since I'm warranty-limited to a 3750 mile oil change interval, there's no real point in an oil analysis for me....but thank you for paving the way

I hope I get to see you run a heavier oil to see what happens!

Joe

 

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted By: fishbone
What about a 0w-40 oil, such as the Mobil 1?

I would use something more robust in a stage 2 LGT. There was a recent uoa of it posted on nasioc from an n/a RS. Wear was good but viscosity was a 30 grade after only 4k miles, which is typical of this oil from what I read around here.

There's a stock Forester XT that runs M1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5w-40 and even that has sheared to a 30 grade on a few occasions in his application (lives in FL and tows).

I've run GC for several years with decent results, but always had high fuel dilution in the winter.

-Dennis

 

[Steve S]

Consider the type of operation/ mods for the wear numbers which aren't super bad rather than the oil .

 

[fishbone]

I would like to revisit this thread with a question.
Where is the iron and copper coming from? It's not the headgasket, is it? Anyone that is very familiar with the Boxer make-up care to answer?