7500 mile UOA for Royal Purple 10w30 - Toyota Tundra V8

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Hi Guys,

Nu Guy here coming over from TundraSolutions.com.
I'm interested in what you guys think about my UOA's for my Tundra's V8. I have done 3 tests so far. One @ 10K, 15K & 22.5K miles. I drive mostly freeway speeds, 65-80mph, w/about 10% city driving thrown in. I have a K&N FIPK intake w/a filter wrap on it for the last 2 tests. I used a Toyota oil filter for the first 2 tests and a K&N Gold oil filter for the last test. I have never needed to add any oil to keep it filled.
The tests were performed by Predictive Maintenance Services, OH.

Tell me what you think..!!! Thanks. JB

WEAR METALS-
Iron- 11, 11, 6
Chromium- 0, 2, 0
Lead- 4, 12, 3
Copper- 44, 20, 20
Tin- 1, 11, 4
Aluminum- 4, 5, 2
Nickel- 0, 4, 0
Silver- 0, 1, 0

CONTAMINANTS-
Silicon- 43, 16, 11
Boron- 56, 5, 1
Sodium- 286, 67, 28
Potassium- 3, 1, 1

ADDITIVES-
Magnesium- 295, 54, 17
Calcium- 2046, 2139, 2063
Phosphorus- 1007, 1246, 1083
Zinc- 1193, 1276, 1161
Molybdenum- 95, 164, 163

PHYSICAL ANALYSIS-
Fuel- A
Water- 0.0, Glycol- N, N, N
Visc/ 100c cST- 9.2, 9.7, 10.1
Karl Fischer/ ppm- 74,196, 82,226, 93,524

Soot- Oxidation- 16.00, 17.00, 20.00
Nitration- 9.10, 8.40, 9.00

“Wear levels appear to be normal. Sodium is slightly high, but AntiFreeze test is negative. Levels are going down. Re-sample @ normal interval.”
 
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And thanks for posting. We have been looking for more RP tests. Looks like your numbers are coming down nicely. The RP is doing a god job. The stuff is holding grade at 7500 miles. I also was concerned about the sodium. It loks like coper and silicon are remnants of asssembly process.

Looks like the sodium is coming down. I assume the first interval was 5000 miles and you actually changed oil at 10K, 15K and 22.5K miles ?? I noticed the 12 ppm bump on the lead that's why I wanted to make sure you changed at 10K miles.

Thanks again. Good to see some RP posts.
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Looks like you had Mobil 1 TriSyn before??

[ October 05, 2003, 09:24 PM: Message edited by: Al ]
 
Hi Al,

Thanks for the welcome. Yes, I changed oil @ 5K and then @ 10K. I changed to RP @ 5K. Will NEVER use Mobile 1 unless toyota had it in the engine from the factory....

Nice site you guys have here. I'll be posting more UOA's every 7.5K miles..... JB
 
Will NEVER use Mobile 1 unless toyota had it in the engine from the factory....

Why then are you using RP?

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quote:

Originally posted by Patman:
Originally posted by Jack Burton:
[qb]

Anyways, back to your report. Putting that filter wrap on your K&N made a big difference! I've been avoiding getting the K&N FIPK for my LT1 Firebird but if I could find the filter wrap up here, I'd consider getting one. The FIPK unit on an LT1 is worth close to 10hp, mainly from the less restrictive tubing of this unit vs the stock setup.
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Patman, I don't know if they'll ship to Canada, but Summit Racing keeps quite a few of the K&N "prefilters" as they call them, in stock. If nothing else maybe someone in the US could get you one and ship it to you. As a "gift" with no real value (to customs) of course.
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I've shipped a few things to Canada thanks to eBay. It's really no big deal...

[ October 06, 2003, 02:37 PM: Message edited by: jsharp ]
 
Glad to see you made it over, Jack!
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The shop down the block just put up a Royal Purple banner.
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If M1 keeps going up I might have to move on over to RP. What filter will you using on your next test? I will be interested in seeing your future UOAs after break-in metals level off.
 
This is probably the best RP result I've seen to date. If I remember correctly, YZF150 had a good truck engine UOA with the same oil.

Copper is high ... but since lead and iron are fairly low, it might just be a characteristic of this motor.
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--- Bror Jace
 
quote:

Originally posted by Jack Burton:
Is there a problem w/me not liking Mobile products, GSV ???

Well, you don't give a reason why you don't like them. Which leaves us guessing.

I have some friends who have political reasons for not using some oils. A lot of people did not like tri-syn. Still others don't think synthetic is worth the price, but in your case you're using RP so that's not an argument.

So, what is your reason?
 
quote:

Originally posted by csandste:
Why is the magnesium diving? It's good to see different oils being tested, not just Mobil and Amsoil.

Magnesum and boron are additives from previous oil
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I agree-I'd like to see more tests from RP.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Brons2:
I have some friends who have political reasons for not using some oils. A lot of people did not like tri-syn. Still others don't think synthetic is worth the price, but in your case you're using RP so that's not an argument.

Also, there was a lot of hype on some message boards, when SuperSyn first came out, that it was a Group III synthetic. There are people out there who still believe this and will trash-talk Mobil for this reason.

So, Jack, of course you should feel free to have and express your opinions, but just stating them without any explanation doesn't engender helpful conversation.
 
Some people don't like certain brands for reasons other than the performance of their products. My mother will not use a chevron product, because 10 yrs ago, she bought a tank full of water from a chevron station, and they would not refund her money.
 
quote:

My mother will not use a chevron product, because 10 yrs ago, she bought a tank full of water from a chevron station, and they would not refund her money. [/QB]

Older folks (like me) have long memories.
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Thanks Guys,

I'll keep my opinions to myself and just report the facts.... Long story about Mobil....

Patman- The lab lists Boron as a contaminant vice additive. I'll inquire about this w/the lab next time... I bought my filter wrap from these guys for $17.50. Pace Performance The FIPK gives me more power from 3ooo rpms and above. I lost a little in the lower rpms (As in take offs from start.)

I buy RP in a 5 gallon jug and use washed out plastic containers to bring my 6.5 qts to the dealer. Am I compromising the integrity of the oil if the oil is in the containers for a hour ?
I had my tranny fluid changed over to RP and needed only 16 out of 20 qts. I stored the extra 4 qts. of ATF in a clean milk jug for a couple of months. (Forgot to put it back..!!) Is this still good fluid ?

Thanks. JB
 
quote:

Originally posted by Jack Burton:
I buy RP in a 5 gallon jug and use washed out plastic containers to bring my 6.5 qts to the dealer. Am I compromising the integrity of the oil if the oil is in the containers for a hour ?
I had my tranny fluid changed over to RP and needed only 16 out of 20 qts. I stored the extra 4 qts. of ATF in a clean milk jug for a couple of months. (Forgot to put it back..!!) Is this still good fluid ?

Thanks. JB


I don't think its a problem. I would just rinse the inside with some alcohol. I used to have the same problem with Schaeffer's-fortunately I had an empty 5 qt bottle of Mobil 1 which was good bc of its wide mouth.

I'm sure you don't have a spare Mobil 1 bottle around though
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