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#3400257 - 06/18/14 12:52 AM Re: Changing coolant [Re: Kuato]
David1 Offline


Registered: 06/17/13
Posts: 882
Loc: USA, FLA
Originally Posted By: Kuato
Your plan sounds great. Repeat every 18 months or so to maintain the additive level.......I have done this with all my vehicles and NEVER had a coolant related problem since 1985, regardless of the age of the vehicle.


Why do some people say its okay to use Ionized water and then use a addative like Redline Water Wetter or Royal purple coolant addative.

Why do some people think that water deionized or Inonzed water is with a addative is better?
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Valvoline Maxx Life 5W30
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#3400258 - 06/18/14 12:54 AM Re: Changing coolant [Re: raytseng]
David1 Offline


Registered: 06/17/13
Posts: 882
Loc: USA, FLA
What do you think of Valvoline Max Life coolant with
MaxLife™ Antifreeze/Coolant

Recommended for use in ALL Makes, ALL Models and compatible with all colors.

Only coolant with Alugard® Plus to ensure compatibility with all coolants
Developed to work with all automobiles and light duty trucks
Helps protect against cold weather freeze-ups and hot weather boil-overs
Lubricates gaskets and seal


Im not sold on this stuff.. anyone here actually use it and have good results?
_________________________
2002 Honda Accord V6 3.0 Automatic Trans 183000 Miles
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FRAM ULTRA OR FRAM TOUGH GUARD Or HONDA Filtech A01s

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#3400349 - 06/18/14 07:18 AM Re: Changing coolant [Re: DannyBoyG]
MaximaGuy Offline


Registered: 09/20/03
Posts: 720
Loc: Austin, TX
FYI, my brother had a Honda Civic w/ 165K on original coolant. He went by Sears and they told him his coolant needed replacement -- only GOD know what those ignorant $8/hr kids put in there. My brother called me and I told him have no one touch the coolants.

In 6 months time his car was in flames on the freeway, and believe it his wife was driving it .... makes it even better since women never ever see the dash to know what is going on in their vehicles. His radiator had jellied up and blew the HG and what not. He had to pay money to "recycle" a perfectly normal vehicle.

These are the kind of idiooots you will find around in these shops whose owners don't have a formal education don't understand chemistry and metal interaction -- there is a reason why our owners manual only recommends manufacture fluid.

Any folks stop complaining about the cost of coolants -- I would spend $60 for 2 gallons of OEM coolant that I wouldn't touch for 80-100K miles (same w/ spark plugs always OEM, I monkeyed w/ non-OEM and there are sordid stories to reflect upon). Americans spend more money filling their tanks driving their behemoths on the roads and complain when it comes to $2 tolls.


Edited by MaximaGuy (06/18/14 07:22 AM)
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#3400618 - 06/18/14 01:15 PM Re: Changing coolant [Re: DannyBoyG]
KrisZ Offline


Registered: 12/23/06
Posts: 4267
Loc: Toronto, Canada
IMO, but the importance of sticking to OEM coolants is totally blown out of proportion here.
Yes, different chemistries may not play well with each other and I'm fully against mixing different types of coolants. But if the system is fully flushed, I don't see any advantage of OEM coolants, especially the ones that can only be bought at the dealer.

Fear is what sells most overpriced OEM fluids.


Edited by KrisZ (06/18/14 01:17 PM)
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#3401015 - 06/18/14 09:46 PM Re: Changing coolant [Re: KrisZ]
artificialist Offline


Registered: 09/23/07
Posts: 6899
Loc: Florida
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
IMO, but the importance of sticking to OEM coolants is totally blown out of proportion here.
Yes, different chemistries may not play well with each other and I'm fully against mixing different types of coolants. But if the system is fully flushed, I don't see any advantage of OEM coolants, especially the ones that can only be bought at the dealer.

Fear is what sells most overpriced OEM fluids.

My parents experienced something completely different. Many years ago, mom had a 1994 Eagle Summit (Mitsubishi derived clone) and dad had a 1995 Honda Accord. Both cars had water pumps fail within months of each other, the year was 1999 or 2000, IIRC. The guys at the repair shops said that the OEM coolant had no silicates, and the conventional green stuff had it. Dad always thought green antifreeze was all the same.

So whenever someone tries to use coolants that have silicates in a car that doesn't use them, I immediately tell them not to use the coolant with silicates.
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#3401149 - 06/19/14 01:23 AM Re: Changing coolant [Re: artificialist]
Kiwi_ME Offline


Registered: 10/24/08
Posts: 689
Loc: New Zealand
Originally Posted By: artificialist
1994 Eagle Summit (Mitsubishi derived clone) and dad had a 1995 Honda Accord.
...
I immediately tell them not to use the coolant with silicates.

yes, interestingly this Motor magazine article says:

"American conventional green coolants use doses of both silicates and phosphates."

"Japanese conventional coolants contain no silicates, but they do contain phosphates for fast-acting protection, plus other inhibitors.

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#3401206 - 06/19/14 06:00 AM Re: Changing coolant [Re: artificialist]
KrisZ Offline


Registered: 12/23/06
Posts: 4267
Loc: Toronto, Canada
Originally Posted By: artificialist

My parents experienced something completely different. Many years ago, mom had a 1994 Eagle Summit (Mitsubishi derived clone) and dad had a 1995 Honda Accord. Both cars had water pumps fail within months of each other, the year was 1999 or 2000, IIRC. The guys at the repair shops said that the OEM coolant had no silicates, and the conventional green stuff had it. Dad always thought green antifreeze was all the same.

So whenever someone tries to use coolants that have silicates in a car that doesn't use them, I immediately tell them not to use the coolant with silicates.


That was then, this is now and I don't think you can get a full silicate formula coolant anymore, at least not readily available. Coolants available today have a low silicate concentration, just enough to provide fast protection against cavitation, same function as phosphates.

Japanese concluded that the old full silicate formulas may contribute to shorter seal life and moved to phosphates instead, but of course most people took that as "all silicate coolants are bad in Japanese cars". I've been using G-05 in my Mazda 3 for five years now with stellar results and perfectly clean innards.
_________________________
2006 Mazda3 2.0 - 190,000 Km
2003 Ford Focus ZX5 2.0 Zetec - 160,000Km
Both on good old dino juice smile

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#3402938 - 06/21/14 10:40 AM Re: Changing coolant [Re: DannyBoyG]
The_Eric Offline


Registered: 03/31/10
Posts: 3366
Loc: Iowa
Originally Posted By: DannyBoyG
Also, what kinds of coolant would you suggest? I have looked at several types such as Prestone, Genuine Pink or Red Toyota, or even Amsoil. I am not too concerned about price as coolant doesn't need to be changed very often.


An important thing to note here: You said the price of coolant doesn't matter much as it doesn't need to be changed very often.

True, as long as you realize that the reason it doesn't need to be changed often is because of the coolant's formulation. Different coolant will have different service intervals. For example, the plain old green coolant wouldn't be suitable for such a long service life.

Personally I would stick with the Toyota pink coolant. It wount have any compatibility issues if you leave some coolant in the block (simply draining the radiator will not remove all of the coolant in the system) and it will have one of the longest drain intervals. Also note that in your manual, it probably recommends a reduced drain interval AFTER the first 10yrs/100K miles.
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