How long does it take to work

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Okay... I've just came from underneath my car trying to replace the rear Oxygen sensor. These bad boys are in there. The sensors are the original ones from 1997 & they've seen plenty of Chicago weather. I don't want to use a torch so the mechanic says $50.00 for him to bust them loose.

I'm currently using Kroil penetrating oil, since about 11 am cdt, now it's three(3)hours later and still will no move. Quick questons.

1) How long does this stuff need to be effective?
2) Should I keep spraying them down every 2hrs or so?

Forgot to mention that the O2 sensor are between the cats, so they see winters and all kinds of weather directly on them.
 
I usually hear of Kroil being used on firearms. Have you tried WD40? That stuff works great at loosening up rusted exhaust manifold bolts for me.
 
Extension pipes/bars? Seems obvious, but has to move, the mech can do it so can you. Some feet of extension will move it, plus the other ideas.
 
Originally Posted By: bullwinkle
PB Blaster if you can get it, soak it, let it sit overnight.



This Silk-Kroil is better from what I hear. I've tried the Breaker Bar, but the O2 sensor socket won't seat properly when I apply strength. I don't have the same leverage being on the garage floor. I'll spray again in a few minutes let sit then start it.
 
Originally Posted By: LT4 Vette
Did you try removing them after a long drive ?

I notice they are come out easier when the exhaust is up to operating temp.



No, I just let the car warm up to operating temps (about 20 min), shut it down and sprayed again. Still no budge.
 
Just gotta let it soak then use lots of leverage.

Kroil is as good as anything else. I was introduced to kroil for busting loose stainless steel fasteners in jet engine turbines where it made removal much easier.
 
Originally Posted By: tom slick
Just gotta let it soak then use lots of leverage.

Kroil is as good as anything else. I was introduced to kroil for busting loose stainless steel fasteners in jet engine turbines where it made removal much easier.

Thats just what I'm worried about. I talked to the parts guy at Infiniti and was told if I stripped the seating area where the sensor mounts, it alot of cash to replace. I'll keep spraying it down over the weekend and see what happens Sunday eve. I was thinking on buying a REASONABLE PRICE electric imoact gun (250LBS) to have on hand. I'm by no means a pro just trying to keep cost down.

Can you guys recommend a good one or is that another thread?
 
Why dont you want to use a torch? I assume its bad anyways. I had to replace a catalytic converter on my Blazer, and had to remove a sensor that was working properly. I soaked it in PB Blaster, and after awhile put the heat to the exhause pipe, around the sensor. Not directly on the sensor. Still blew a nut trying to turn it out but, it came out. Put it in the new CC, and everything seems fine. Just my experience.
 
On all my cars, the rear O2 sensor came off with not much struggle. They all had anywhere between 70K to 150K of New England weather on them. The important thing is to make sure they are hot and you use the O2 sensor socket and whack it a little. Don't try open end wrench on it.

- Vikas
 
My sure-to-be-ridiculed approach would be stick with the Kroil and find some way to introduce some moderate but repetitive vibration to the sensor area. Use a tap-tap-tap tempo to allow the Kroil to creep in. JMO.
 
Thanks alot guys. I'm taking her in this mornimg for $50.00 both sides. The manual said they were torqued to 40lbs so I wont gamble.

Also the O2 sensor I ordered the price just went up $5 bucks. I wonder what other parts are on the rise. I went to AutoZone for their parts rental

Thank you all, VERY VERY VERY much for all the advice. I'll be more prepared the next time. Oh, any recommendation for a Electric Impact Wrench. They seem to be disappearing?
 
Well heres the update on the repacement. Those things are rusted on so bad the mechanic could not get them off. The reason is, the section that its mounted in (both sides) had rusted so bad that when heat was applied the metal around the mount socket would melt. What I needed to do was go to a muffler shop and I have the section removed and a new one welded in its place, along with the mounting nut. Also what I noticed was, I was performing the removal process right, I never took inot account the rust. So after 1 1/2 I did notice the exhaust was a bit louder, this was due to a crack that had develope.

So after 14yrs of Chicago weather the under carriage looks pretty bad. In the future when I take on these jobs I will replace the whole unit that its attached to. I will also be performing a dose of penetrating oil Yearly. The other side will be done next week the O2 sensor is okay but that section (from what I was told is worst). Next step is front steering linkage.
 
I remember my first car... the salted roads ate the whole underside to death. Perhaps the next O2 sensor will be installed with a little Anti-Seize. That stuff is SUPER for any re-assembly in this weather.
 
Have I been living charmed life? So far, I have taken out total of 5 O2 sensors (1 primary, 4 secondary) on my 1999 and 2000 model vehicles and none gave me any trouble. On some I had Kroil'd them the day before. A real O2 sensor on hot engine was used every time.

- Vikas
 
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Over the years i have done hundreds of them with only a handful being this bad if that many, strangely the pipes and cats were pretty clean as far as rust goes.
 
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