Mobil 1 0w30 2008 Chevy Cobalt 2.2L Ecotec

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I thought I would use text as some other have requested recently. The oil is out of my wife's car which I had checked before the bumper to bumper warranty expired. This oil made it through three verified blizzards, an ice storm, record-setting cold this winter (one morning started at -16F), over 80% of the days in service below 10F, 50/50 highway/city driving, and my wife's foot made of uranium-238 (the stable isotope). OLM was around 65%.

Miles on oil: 2,700
Miles on vehicle: 35,700

Aluminum......2
Chromium......0
Iron..........6
Lead..........0
Tin...........0
Moly........104
Nickel........1
Manganese.....0
Silver........0
Titanium......0
Potassium.....2
Boron........60
Silicon.......4
Sodium........3
Calcium....2346
Magnesium....12
Phosphorus..672
Zinc........896
Barium........0

SUS Visc @ 210F: 56.0
cSt Visc @ 100C: 9.07
Flashpoint (F): 370
Fuel: Antifreeze: 0
Water: 0
Insolulables: 0.2%
 
Whoa, glad you got it out of there early, the iron levels were getting out of control. j/k

UOA looks great, I've got the M1 0w-30 in one of my cars right now, and have a few changes worth to go around as well.

But I wanted to ask, with only 2,700 miles on it, and the OLM at 65%, is there any particular reason you decided to change it out? I'm assuming it's b/c of the bad winter you wanted to be safe and change it out, but I figured I'd ask anyways
 
Quote:
cSt Visc @ 100C: 9.07


Viscosity dropped after only 2,700 miles.
 
Originally Posted By: sicko
But I wanted to ask, with only 2,700 miles on it, and the OLM at 65%


These #s imply to me as reasonably severe service for this car i.e. only 2700 miles but already the OLM is down to 65%
 
Originally Posted By: buster
Quote:
cSt Visc @ 100C: 9.07


Viscosity dropped after only 2,700 miles.

Hardly,that little bit could have been Black stone error,the oil did great IMO it went through [censored] over the winter,touch of fuel too.

looks great to me keep using it,nice Moly.
 
That's some severe service. Oil did fantastic imo. I just changed out my wifes SUV M10w30 last night. 4k mi. Unfortunately I can't afford the UOA.
frown.gif
 
Again, a completely pointless, short, wasteful OCI.

The GM OLM is calibrated to be run to 0% on DINO oil. It takes into account the driving conditions and temperature, so you don't have to drain it early b/c of weather conditions.

By using a quality synthetic, you GUARANTEE you can make it to 0% on the OLM.....but no, you second guessed both the OLM, and M1 blenders....you must be REALLY, REALLY smart to know more than they do, eh?

This is freakin' rediculous!!!!!
 
Engine and oil did just fine on this short OCI. Maybe consider pulling a sample via the dipstick tube next time and then keep or dump based on the results? I've been messing with a lot of things on my Civic and need to get a feel for how the engine and oil are handling the changes and don't want to wait until the oil "should" be ready for a change at 10,000 miles so I'll probably pull the first sample around 4-5k.
 
Originally Posted By: addyguy
Again, a completely pointless, short, wasteful OCI.

The GM OLM is calibrated to be run to 0% on DINO oil. It takes into account the driving conditions and temperature, so you don't have to drain it early b/c of weather conditions.

By using a quality synthetic, you GUARANTEE you can make it to 0% on the OLM.....but no, you second guessed both the OLM, and M1 blenders....you must be REALLY, REALLY smart to know more than they do, eh?

This is freakin' rediculous!!!!!


This was done at 35,700 miles, so it was right before the bumper to bumper warranty expired. That was the reason it was a short OCI. I realize I have the 100,000 mile powertrain one, but that doesn't cover everything.

This was also right after my grandfather passed away. Criticize as you will, but people cope different ways. A garage is a nice way to get away from everyone.
 
Originally Posted By: Nyquist
Originally Posted By: addyguy
Again, a completely pointless, short, wasteful OCI.

The GM OLM is calibrated to be run to 0% on DINO oil. It takes into account the driving conditions and temperature, so you don't have to drain it early b/c of weather conditions.

By using a quality synthetic, you GUARANTEE you can make it to 0% on the OLM.....but no, you second guessed both the OLM, and M1 blenders....you must be REALLY, REALLY smart to know more than they do, eh?

This is freakin' rediculous!!!!!


This was done at 35,700 miles, so it was right before the bumper to bumper warranty expired. That was the reason it was a short OCI. I realize I have the 100,000 mile powertrain one, but that doesn't cover everything.

This was also right after my grandfather passed away. Criticize as you will, but people cope different ways. A garage is a nice way to get away from everyone.


Sorry.....I didn't quite realize the 'stuff' going on around this. If you were doing this for reasons other than, 'OMG, my oil is done', then that makes sense....

Sorry about your Grandpa.
 
Yup, that's some pretty severe conditions...I can see why you get the urge to change it but it looks like it did very well and probably could of gone alot longer on it....At least now you know the oil can handle it...
 
Originally Posted By: addyguy
Again, a completely pointless, short, wasteful OCI.

The GM OLM is calibrated to be run to 0% on DINO oil. It takes into account the driving conditions and temperature, so you don't have to drain it early b/c of weather conditions.

By using a quality synthetic, you GUARANTEE you can make it to 0% on the OLM.....but no, you second guessed both the OLM, and M1 blenders....you must be REALLY, REALLY smart to know more than they do, eh?

This is freakin' rediculous!!!!!


I can think of a whole lot more things in life to get upset about than how many miles are on someone elses car when they decide to change their oil!!
My wifes Mazda only gets about 5,000 miles a year. I change it every 4 months! What do you think of that? LOL!!!
 
Originally Posted By: daman
Originally Posted By: buster
Quote:
cSt Visc @ 100C: 9.07


Viscosity dropped after only 2,700 miles.

Hardly,that little bit could have been Black stone error,the oil did great IMO it went through [censored] over the winter,touch of fuel too.

looks great to me keep using it,nice Moly.


Wear is non-existent, but the 18% shear is hardly "that little bit". I agree Blackstone is unreliable but M1 0W-30 does appear to be a shear prone oil. It'd would have been interesting to see what happened to the 40C vis' spec? If it was anywhere near the PDS spec of 63.1cSt then I'd suggest you'd be far better off simply using M1's 0W-20 or even 5W-20 with their much lower start-up viscosities.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: daman
Originally Posted By: buster
Quote:
cSt Visc @ 100C: 9.07


Viscosity dropped after only 2,700 miles.

Hardly,that little bit could have been Black stone error,the oil did great IMO it went through [censored] over the winter,touch of fuel too.

looks great to me keep using it,nice Moly.


Wear is non-existent, but the 18% shear is hardly "that little bit". I agree Blackstone is unreliable but M1 0W-30 does appear to be a shear prone oil. It'd would have been interesting to see what happened to the 40C vis' spec? If it was anywhere near the PDS spec of 63.1cSt then I'd suggest you'd be far better off simply using M1's 0W-20 or even 5W-20 with their much lower start-up viscosities.

Pfft..that still is nothing IMO,it went from a solid (11.0)30w to a thick 20w,seen fuel dilution and lots of ideling im sure.
 
Do I detect a bit of defensiveness here?
Oh right you're currently running M1 0W-30.
With fuel at less than 0.5% it's not contributing much to this oils shear.
Most manufactures set the condemnation level for shear at 15%.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Do I detect a bit of defensiveness here?

Nope it's just how i am when minute things like this come into play the oil did fine and was protecting fine.
 
Ok, help me understand shear. What viscosity range did it shear to? Even if it shears to a 20wt, doesn't 20 wt protect well enough? Does M1 0w20 not shear like 0w30? I'm asking because I'm going with 0w20 for my Jeep when it comes due for a change in approximately the next month. I'm also considering M1 0w30 for my Soltice, which won't need a change until fall.

Heck, I might even run 0w30 in the van.
 
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It's unacceptable to see 18% shear in 3k miles. IMO.

However, the HT/HS of this oil is only 2.99 so I'm not surprised. The viscosity modifier fell apart here IMO.
 
Originally Posted By: kender
Originally Posted By: addyguy
Again, a completely pointless, short, wasteful OCI.

The GM OLM is calibrated to be run to 0% on DINO oil. It takes into account the driving conditions and temperature, so you don't have to drain it early b/c of weather conditions.

By using a quality synthetic, you GUARANTEE you can make it to 0% on the OLM.....but no, you second guessed both the OLM, and M1 blenders....you must be REALLY, REALLY smart to know more than they do, eh?

This is freakin' rediculous!!!!!


I can think of a whole lot more things in life to get upset about than how many miles are on someone elses car when they decide to change their oil!!
My wifes Mazda only gets about 5,000 miles a year. I change it every 4 months! What do you think of that? LOL!!!
That is what Bob Is The Oil Guy Is for!!! Where else in the world can someone go and get "ask for " criticized on the manor of their oil changing habits?
 
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