Will be changing my spark plugs this weekend - do I need to spray any Anti Seize on them?
Changing spark plugs - do I need Anti Seize?
- Thread starter tripleM
- Start date
Not spray but it's a good idea to apply it to the threads. I use copper anti-seize, not silver. Do not over tighten them.
It depends on the application. What engine are you talking about?
I called the dealer about this for my truck. They said not to use anti-seize. My truck has cast iron cylinder heads.
I called the dealer about this for my truck. They said not to use anti-seize. My truck has cast iron cylinder heads.
I always put antisieze on spark plugs that go into aluminum heads. Not really needed on cast iron heads.
I always use antiseize- the silver kind.
Use it sparingly and keep it away from the electrode. You'll be glad you used it next time you replace the plugs.
It isn't as important with cast iron heads, but it WILL help and it certainly won't hurt anything. But IMO, you'd be crazy to install plugs into an aluminum head without antiseize. I don't care what kind of coating the OEM plugs had- you can't assume that aftermarket plugs will have the same type and quality of coating. If the plugs are properly coated, antiseize may be unnecessary but won't hurt anything. But if they're NOT properly coated, then antiseize could easily save you a lot of trouble.
Use it sparingly and keep it away from the electrode. You'll be glad you used it next time you replace the plugs.
It isn't as important with cast iron heads, but it WILL help and it certainly won't hurt anything. But IMO, you'd be crazy to install plugs into an aluminum head without antiseize. I don't care what kind of coating the OEM plugs had- you can't assume that aftermarket plugs will have the same type and quality of coating. If the plugs are properly coated, antiseize may be unnecessary but won't hurt anything. But if they're NOT properly coated, then antiseize could easily save you a lot of trouble.
I agree 100%
You absolutely want it. Get the paste style that comes in a tube.
Put on a tiny film - and I do mean tiny, in that a pencil eraser sized dab should do at least 6. I usually just slightly dab a gloved finger into the jar, spread it on the back of my other glove, then use an index finger to get a light swipe and roll it around all the threads. Reduce the torque used or go with the measure of turn method to tighten.
The next time you have to replace the plugs, you'll be glad you did.
The next time you have to replace the plugs, you'll be glad you did.
Originally Posted By: onion
I always use antiseize- the silver kind.
Use it sparingly and keep it away from the electrode. You'll be glad you used it next time you replace the plugs.
It isn't as important with cast iron heads, but it WILL help and it certainly won't hurt anything. But IMO, you'd be crazy to install plugs into an aluminum head without antiseize. I don't care what kind of coating the OEM plugs had- you can't assume that aftermarket plugs will have the same type and quality of coating. If the plugs are properly coated, antiseize may be unnecessary but won't hurt anything. But if they're NOT properly coated, then antiseize could easily save you a lot of trouble.
I did a change on my plugs about 1 month ago and forgot to use the antiseize but I should be ok because I put the same $10 oem plug back in.
I always use antiseize- the silver kind.
Use it sparingly and keep it away from the electrode. You'll be glad you used it next time you replace the plugs.
It isn't as important with cast iron heads, but it WILL help and it certainly won't hurt anything. But IMO, you'd be crazy to install plugs into an aluminum head without antiseize. I don't care what kind of coating the OEM plugs had- you can't assume that aftermarket plugs will have the same type and quality of coating. If the plugs are properly coated, antiseize may be unnecessary but won't hurt anything. But if they're NOT properly coated, then antiseize could easily save you a lot of trouble.
I did a change on my plugs about 1 month ago and forgot to use the antiseize but I should be ok because I put the same $10 oem plug back in.
Sorry everyone but it is a bad idea to put antisieze on sparkplugs.
All sparkplugs, that appear shiney when new, already have a special metal coating and additional antiseize can result in over torquing:
Here are all the reasons straight from NGK:
http://www.ngkplugpro.ca/content/contentfiles/pdf/NGKSP-0907-1R-Anti-SeizeonSparkPlugs.pdf
All sparkplugs, that appear shiney when new, already have a special metal coating and additional antiseize can result in over torquing:
Here are all the reasons straight from NGK:
http://www.ngkplugpro.ca/content/contentfiles/pdf/NGKSP-0907-1R-Anti-SeizeonSparkPlugs.pdf
Originally Posted By: 01rangerxl
It depends on the application. What engine are you talking about?
I called the dealer about this for my truck. They said not to use anti-seize. My truck has cast iron cylinder heads.
A simple Mazda3 four banger.
But after above bulletin from NGK - whose Iridium plugs I will be using - it appears that may not be a good idea.
Thanks MVA!
It depends on the application. What engine are you talking about?
I called the dealer about this for my truck. They said not to use anti-seize. My truck has cast iron cylinder heads.
A simple Mazda3 four banger.
But after above bulletin from NGK - whose Iridium plugs I will be using - it appears that may not be a good idea.
Thanks MVA!
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Yes use it,,i put it on alum,cast everything....that over torquing is [censored],use a nice snug and call it a day,everyone over thinks this stuff...
Notice NGK says "not recommended", they don't say "do not use". If you follow their own instructions of 3/4 of a turn after seating you will not over torque the plug.
Anti seize on plugs? NO. All your silver plugs have a coating on them, no need if you use the correct plug. I have done so mnay plugs at work my head spins, I have taken them out at 100K and have never had one stick. The OE doesnt do it and neither should you. The anti seize can mess with the grounding of the plug and you do not get proper heat transfer. The only time I have problems with plugs is when some one overtightened them and the threads in the head rolled slightly, then the plug galls on the way out, all the anti seize in the world won't help in that situation.
some say yes; other sez no.
They all have their points though.
Frankly speaking, I have not used any anti-seize on any Alu heads for 20 years of servicing cars, citing the following:
(1) with OBD-II emissions systems so sensitive to fouling or contamination of emissions components, I would not tempt fate by dabbing my spark plugs with lead-based antiseize
(2) I always torque all the spark plugs properly to factory specifications, no exceptions to the rule (and no guessing)
(3) all spark plugs and type, be they iridium, platinum or copper (it's actually nickel, but with copper core/insert), I typically pull them off every year or 1.5 yrs for inspection and then re-torque them afterwards. None would seize inside the heads for as long as they let me service/maintain their vehicles.
(4) don't leave any spark plugs threaded inside the heads for too long for the deposits from combustion process will accumulate at the end (close to the electrode) of the spark plugs, causing all kinds of issues such as difficult to un-do,etc. and the likeliness of cross-threading/seizing on the head will be high. I've experienced it once with a head with original spark plugs in it for 6+ years. Took me a better part of 1/2 hr with lots of lubricants, etc. in order to free them (4cyl). replaced them with fresh ones and they all went in like a breeze.
So, you got my 2c's worth. It's up to you to decide now.
Q.
They all have their points though.
Frankly speaking, I have not used any anti-seize on any Alu heads for 20 years of servicing cars, citing the following:
(1) with OBD-II emissions systems so sensitive to fouling or contamination of emissions components, I would not tempt fate by dabbing my spark plugs with lead-based antiseize
(2) I always torque all the spark plugs properly to factory specifications, no exceptions to the rule (and no guessing)
(3) all spark plugs and type, be they iridium, platinum or copper (it's actually nickel, but with copper core/insert), I typically pull them off every year or 1.5 yrs for inspection and then re-torque them afterwards. None would seize inside the heads for as long as they let me service/maintain their vehicles.
(4) don't leave any spark plugs threaded inside the heads for too long for the deposits from combustion process will accumulate at the end (close to the electrode) of the spark plugs, causing all kinds of issues such as difficult to un-do,etc. and the likeliness of cross-threading/seizing on the head will be high. I've experienced it once with a head with original spark plugs in it for 6+ years. Took me a better part of 1/2 hr with lots of lubricants, etc. in order to free them (4cyl). replaced them with fresh ones and they all went in like a breeze.
So, you got my 2c's worth. It's up to you to decide now.
Q.
I always use antiseize I apply to the threads, I often use a old toothbrush with a small dab of antiseize, should do all 4-8 plugs depending on app. Especially a mazda, with a what? Aluminum head.
if you want to continue changing your own spark plugs then yes, anti-sieze makes life alot easier
Call me an idiot, but I have never torqued a spark plug in my life. Never had a problem with one either.
A lot of the newer motors I have worked on say not to use anti-seize on the plugs because you may overtorque it.
I just follow the directions on the box, usually 2/3 of a turn after seating.
I get the plug all the way to seated with my hand, not a wrench, and I have never cross threaded anything.
Some people are just over thinking it.
The OEM isn't using anti seize from the factory, and you should hear the moans and groans coming from the plug when it comes out. I ALWAYS use PB blaster when taking out factory plugs.
You don't want to break the plug off in the head.
A lot of the newer motors I have worked on say not to use anti-seize on the plugs because you may overtorque it.
I just follow the directions on the box, usually 2/3 of a turn after seating.
I get the plug all the way to seated with my hand, not a wrench, and I have never cross threaded anything.
Some people are just over thinking it.
The OEM isn't using anti seize from the factory, and you should hear the moans and groans coming from the plug when it comes out. I ALWAYS use PB blaster when taking out factory plugs.
You don't want to break the plug off in the head.
Seems the responses are pretty much 50/50.
