High Mileage oils or additives?

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Hi, first post here..not too sure my subject header makes sense.
I have a couple highe mileage vehicles. Been reading some of the pro's and con's to using "HM" oils, but seems there are more pro's, which is good. However, my mechanics recommens I just use a product on occassion that is called AT-205 stop leak which is an additive you pour directly into the crank case when you change your oil. It is bout 11.00/container...I think it is 8 ounces. Says to add per/6 qts of oil. I was wondering if any of you are familiar with this product or any that are similar to it? And if you think just using the HM oil is a better option? The sales clerk at the shop which sells AT-205 said that using HM oils can actually degrade seals over time, but I'm not so sure I buy into his opinion on that one
 
Sounds like that sales clerk may want to sell their product at high cost rather that give you real information about HM oils and the effects on seals. When someone tells me stuff like that, when questioned, it always turns out to be "well I heard it from this (unreliable) source", definitely not anything scientific or researched. For $12 you can buy 5 quart jug of Maxlife at WM, which is way better and less clostly than that additive with regular oil, IMO. Who makes that stuff? The "AT" part almost makes me think it is for an automatic transmission.
 
I used the Valoline Maxlife in one of my vehicles for a while and I couldn't see where it made any improvements to anything. That could've just been something with my particular application though. Others may have had more favorable experiences with HM oils. However, I think the overwhelming consensus about oil additives is they're nothing but oil filter cloggers. I've pretty much come to the conclusion that if my engine starts using oil, I'd go to a thicker viscosity, or if it starts leaking, I'd replace the bad seal.
 
Originally Posted By: grampi
I used the Valoline Maxlife in one of my vehicles for a while and I couldn't see where it made any improvements to anything. That could've just been something with my particular application though. Others may have had more favorable experiences with HM oils. However, I think the overwhelming consensus about oil additives is they're nothing but oil filter cloggers. I've pretty much come to the conclusion that if my engine starts using oil, I'd go to a thicker viscosity, or if it starts leaking, I'd replace the bad seal.


Yes, and yes...to the poster before this quote..the AT-205 can be used in transmissions as well as crank cases...it's for both.
And yes, gramp, I've always sort of held your thought that it would be better to just replace it; although, I know Maxlife has a good reputation and likely won't hurt a thing. As for clogged oil filters..never heard that one... Do HM oils not flow "as well" through oil filters resulting in less than acceptional oil cirulation?
 
Originally Posted By: mvg72
Do HM oils not flow "as well" through oil filters resulting in less than acceptional oil cirulation?


Noooooooooooooo!
 
Originally Posted By: mvg72
Originally Posted By: grampi
I used the Valoline Maxlife in one of my vehicles for a while and I couldn't see where it made any improvements to anything. That could've just been something with my particular application though. Others may have had more favorable experiences with HM oils. However, I think the overwhelming consensus about oil additives is they're nothing but oil filter cloggers. I've pretty much come to the conclusion that if my engine starts using oil, I'd go to a thicker viscosity, or if it starts leaking, I'd replace the bad seal.


Yes, and yes...to the poster before this quote..the AT-205 can be used in transmissions as well as crank cases...it's for both.
And yes, gramp, I've always sort of held your thought that it would be better to just replace it; although, I know Maxlife has a good reputation and likely won't hurt a thing. As for clogged oil filters..never heard that one... Do HM oils not flow "as well" through oil filters resulting in less than acceptional oil cirulation?


I think that he is referring to the oil additives(AT-205 in this case) as the "filter cloggers".
 
Originally Posted By: mvg72
..the AT-205 can be used in transmissions as well as crank cases...it's for both.
You seem to know something about this AT-205 additive. Could you tell us more about what's in it?
 
The "Myhonestmechanic" Austin Davis uses it


We have/had a painter named Lou. He sorta sounded like Al Pacino ..looked sorta like him too. Always looked like he was healing from being punched out in both eyes. His outfit was "Fair Priced Painting". He really was cheap and FAST. So fast that often seniors would baulk at paying the agreed upon price, "Oh, I can't afford that (to give you so much for so little work in terms of time)"
LOL.gif


Anyway, we'd often joked (in a mocking Al Pacino voice followed by often mocked Pacino laugh) "Of course it's a fair price. If it wasn't I couldn't call it Fair Price Painting ..hahahahahaha".

My Honest Mechanic.


my apologies to Austin ..if you're here in the background..
 
It's from ATP


AT-205 RE-SEAL™ is now available in a five gallon container as Part No. AT-207. AT-205 RE-SEAL™ is a special plasticizer which softens and expands hydraulic seals to stop leaks. AT-205 can be used for power steering, transmission, engine, differential and any hydraulic system (except brakes) - including jacks, lifts, plows, industrial equipment leaks. In addition, AT-205 will restore sunroof seals, wiper blades and any rubber-based items.

AT-205 contains no petroleum distillates and will not cause seals to become gummy and eventually break down. AT-205 RE-SEAL™ will replace over one dozen different single purpose leak products.


Here's the only thing mentioned (by CAS#) in the msds:

Synonyms: Carbitol®; Diethylene Glycol Ethyl Ether
CAS No.: 111-90-0
Molecular Weight: 134.18
Chemical Formula: C2H5OCH2CH2OCH2CH2OH
Product Codes: 635R, L216
 
Originally Posted By: bruce381
Diethylene Glycol Ethyl Ether

used in oven cleaners too
bruce


I sprayed some oven cleaner on a bare fully disassembled Briggs & Stratton crankcase one time and left the stuff sit on there too long. It was the most sickly horrifying site I've ever seen in my life; it turned the aluminum completely dull black.
 
they add a high ph amine or caustic soda also that would eat up stuff the DGE ether will disolve and solublize oily residue and act as a solvent to dissolve sludge deposits, I always thought that gycol ethers were kinda harsh on rubber or seal elastomers.
bruce
 
The stuff is only 1% in concentration. I should have stated it more correctly as the only hazardous material. It's otherwise referred to as a hydrocarbon.

msds AT-205


Here's one reference that, in my novice view, seems sorta funny.

* APPEARANCE & ODOR: Colorless Liquid; Mild Sweet Odor
* SPECIFIC GRAVITY, 60°F: .991
* BOILING POINT, F: 395
* MELTING POINT, F: Not Applicable
* VAPOR DENSITY: Heavier Than Air
* SOLUBILITY IN WATER: Complete
* VOLATILES, VOL %: 100%
* EVAPORATION RATE: Slower Than Butyl Acetate

Is Butyl Acetate some "standard" of evap rate? I'm sure that it's also slower than C2Cl3F3 at atmospheric
21.gif
 
Originally Posted By: mvg72
Hi, first post here..not too sure my subject header makes sense.
I have a couple highe mileage vehicles. Been reading some of the pro's and con's to using "HM" oils, but seems there are more pro's, which is good. However, my mechanics recommens I just use a product on occassion that is called AT-205 stop leak which is an additive you pour directly into the crank case when you change your oil. It is bout 11.00/container...I think it is 8 ounces. Says to add per/6 qts of oil. I was wondering if any of you are familiar with this product or any that are similar to it? And if you think just using the HM oil is a better option? The sales clerk at the shop which sells AT-205 said that using HM oils can actually degrade seals over time, but I'm not so sure I buy into his opinion on that one

Stick with the oil that got you to this point and leave the snake oil additives to the suckers.
 
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