Oil recommendation

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I'd like some recommendations on what oil I should use and any additives for 2 vehicles. I've been using the same products for both vehicles for years. Mobil 1 Super 5000 10w - 30, Engine Restore, Fram Oil filter, recently added a little seafoam before last oil change. Thanks.

Vehicle #1 : 2002 Ford F-150 4.6L V8
111K miles
Daily driver - short trips
Warm climate - Live in the Southeast

This truck uses about 1 quart of oil between changes. There are no external leaks (no drip spots) and no excessive smoking. If I don't crank the truck for a week or so and then fire up it will smoke a little for about 10 - 15 seconds. I only recently thought I might benefit from swapping to high mileage oil but wanted to check here first.

Vehicle #2 2004 Ford Freestar Van 3.9L V6
92k miles
Daily driver - Short trips daily but also a few long trips each year.
Warm Climate

This vehicle doesn't seem to use much oil between changes. I was wondering if a high mileage oil might be good here as well.

I don't have a preference between synthetic or conventional, whichever would work best for me is what I want. I don't care if I have to order or buy in store. I usually change my oil twice a year, we don't do that much driving.


Considering both vehicles are above what is considered "high mileage" (which is [censored] to me, 75k is just getting started) I was wondering if a different oil might help stop my truck from using oil and prevent my wifes van from beginning. Also, are any additives worth using? I'm a strong believer in seafoam for fuel system (I saw first hand what it did to my ATV engine) but I wasn't sure if it actually did any good to add to oil system.

Thanks for any help,
Chris
 
Last edited:
Chris,

Hello, and welcome to the forum!

Get rid of the Engine Restore, Fram filter, and Seafoam.

Mobil Super High Mileage and a Motorcraft filter would be appropriate for both.
 
No addatives.

Maxlife 5w-30 and a Purolator Classic for 5,000 miles.
-or-
Maxlife Synthetic 5w-30 and a PureONE for 7,500.
 
Thanks for the suggestion so promptly... Just out of curiosity, why? I understand the oil recommendation but why motorcraft over fram filter and why no seafoam in crankcase? Would anything be good in the crankcase to remove unwanted materials not disposed of by just pulling the drain plug?
 
Originally Posted By: wckelly
Thanks for the suggestion so promptly... Just out of curiosity, why? I understand the oil recommendation but why motorcraft over fram filter and why no seafoam in crankcase? Would anything be good in the crankcase to remove unwanted materials not disposed of by just pulling the drain plug?


Good questions.

The Motorcraft is simply a higher quality filter available for the same (possibly lower) price. We can get into other features such as the threaded-end bypass, but that's really a discussion for another day.

As for Seafoam, what do you believe it's doing for you?
 
Frams are OK, but as Ramblejam says, the Motorcraft filters for your vehicles, the FL820S and FL400S seem to be outstanding filters for the money. Both have a silicone ADBV, which is usually a feature of higher-priced filters.
 
This will sound stupid but I always like the coarse end of the fram oil filter. Makes it possible for me to change it with only grip strength, no tool needed. Dumb, I know. I'll change to motorcraft.

As for seafoam, I saw first hand what it can do when used as a fuel additive. I'm not saying it's magic in a bottle but from using in my ATV I notice better performance, carbon removal, cleaner throttle body, etc... I used in the fuel tank as well as adding directly to throttle body. After many applications there was a noticable difference. I also used seafoam deep creep directly in my ATV injector and it was quite amazing. I let it soak for about 30 mins upright with deep creep sprayed in the inlet and eventually all kinds of debris and [censored] came out. Injector was extremely clogged beforehand, now working like new. As for a crankcase additive, I'm not sure what it could be doing. I assumed sludge / debris removal, additional cleaning, etc... I wasn't sure so I wanted to check here.

Motorcraft filter is a go but not sure on oil. I'm gathering synthetic over conventional, high mileage product, and the 5w-30 weight but what about brand? Is this strictly a cost based thing or do some out perform others? If performance was indicated by cost Mobil 1 would be the clear leader...
 
Welcome to the forum.

I have almost identical vehicles to you (check my sig line), and have put almost all the miles shown on them with standard Mobil 1 5w-20 and Motorcraft FL-400S filters. I'm running different oil & filter now just for the heck of it and they were on sale (hanging out on BITOG will do that to you). As previous posters said, Motorcraft filters are excellent quality for the price. I have two of them in my stash now for my next oil change, and plan to use them exclusively going forward. Search the oil filter section on this board for posts of cut open Fram and Motorcraft filters and you'll see why most folks lean toward MC over the Fram orange cans.

Also at your mileage, you could use a HM oil with no problem and it's likely it would help a little with consumption. The Mobil 1 HM oil is usually the same price as standard M1 and has a stouter add pack. Since you don't drive much and don't have a preference syn versus dino, you may consider Pennzoil High Mileage Vehicle. Pennzoil has a great rep on this board and is known for excellent detergency. http://www.pennzoil.com/motor-oil/pennzoil-high-mileage-vehicle/

I'd also stay away from the Seafoam in the crankcase. Virtually all modern name brand oils are very good and will not benefit from additives.
 
Originally Posted By: wckelly
This will sound stupid but I always like the coarse end of the fram oil filter. Makes it possible for me to change it with only grip strength, no tool needed. Dumb, I know. I'll change to motorcraft.


Not dumb at all, Chris -- I've actually heard the same thing from many people. As Stelth mentioned, you need the FL-820S and FL-400S models, both of which are available from Walmart.

Originally Posted By: wckelly

As for seafoam, I saw first hand what it can do when used as a fuel additive. I'm not saying it's magic in a bottle but from using in my ATV I notice better performance, carbon removal, cleaner throttle body, etc... I used in the fuel tank as well as adding directly to throttle body. After many applications there was a noticable difference. I also used seafoam deep creep directly in my ATV injector and it was quite amazing. I let it soak for about 30 mins upright with deep creep sprayed in the inlet and eventually all kinds of debris and [censored] came out. Injector was extremely clogged beforehand, now working like new. As for a crankcase additive, I'm not sure what it could be doing. I assumed sludge / debris removal, additional cleaning, etc... I wasn't sure so I wanted to check here.


For cleaning, I'd recommend a couple of things: A PEA based fuel system cleaner (Gumout Regane, Chevron Techron, or Redline SI-1), and throttle body spray (I just used the CRC product yesterday, and it did a great job).

Originally Posted By: wckelly
Motorcraft filter is a go but not sure on oil. I'm gathering synthetic over conventional, high mileage product, and the 5w-30 weight but what about brand? Is this strictly a cost based thing or do some out perform others? If performance was indicated by cost Mobil 1 would be the clear leader...


Both of your vehicles actually call for 5w-20. Mobil 1 High Mileage 5w-20 has worked wonderfully for me in a high mileage 2003 F-150, and is available for $25/5 quarts @ Walmart. On cleaning properties alone, I prefer Mobil 1 to conventional products, but that's a decision you'll have to make. At the Walmart price point though, it's a very attractive alternative.

As well, I'll make an addendum here and mention my use of TC-W3 in the F-150 (1oz/5gal). No mileage improvement noted (my driving isn't nearly consistent enough to measure accurately), but it's very quiet & smooth.
 
You're fine sticking with Mobil Super 5000, or try their HM oil. Maxlife is another one of my favorite HM oils. Go 5w30 instead of 10w30 if that's what the engine makers specify (they probably do- 10w30 is an archaic grade).

A better filter wouldn't hurt if you're using an entry-level Fram (orange can). Go up to an ExtraGuard, Motorcraft, Purolator or Wix.

The main change I'd make: ditch the additives. Oil has what it needs, additives can interact with the oil's own additives.
 
Valvoline Maxlife, Quakerstate Defy,or Pennzoil High mileage for both with Motorcraft filters.
If you dont mind spending a little extra Mobil 1 High Mileage is a great oil.
Purolater Pureone, Bosch Premium, Wix and Napa Gold are all very high quality filters as well but the Motorcraft (made by Purolator) is the best bang for the buck.
stay away from putting restore, seafoam or any flush in the crankcase.
If you want to use an additive for cleaning Marvel Mystery oil is safe but honestly not needed here.
 
Originally Posted By: jamesyarbrough
Valvoline Maxlife, Quakerstate Defy,or Pennzoil High mileage for both with Motorcraft filters.
If you dont mind spending a little extra Mobil 1 High Mileage is a great oil.
Purolater Pureone, Bosch Premium, Wix and Napa Gold are all very high quality filters as well but the Motorcraft (made by Purolator) is the best bang for the buck.
stay away from putting restore, seafoam or any flush in the crankcase.
If you want to use an additive for cleaning Marvel Mystery oil is safe but honestly not needed here.



Seafoam isn't any stronger than mmo is so why is mmo alright but not seafoam.
I've used both products,among others added to the crankcase for entire oil change intervals and I've never had any problems or oil burning or oil leaking after using any of them.
Heck I've used seafoam in an early 90s Chrysler minivan with over 300k on the odo and I couldn't see the valve springs under the oil cap there was so much mud. And it was consuming oil at well in excess of a quart every 500 kms.
A can of sea foam in the oil,a can through a vacuum line at half a can per day then drove my regular commute.
Did a can of sea foam twice with short oil change intervals and within a few weeks oil consumption ceased and I could see the valve springs again.
That van was a tool hauler for one of our trim crews. It lasted 2 more years after that before it got sideswiped by some jerk that ran while it was parked at our shop and insurance totalled it.
Seafoam is harmless when used as directed. Heck I've used it at concentrations well in excess of the directions,same with mmo and no harm done,in fact there was an improvement.
These products have been around since vehicles have been,so if they didn't work or were somehow harmful I'm pretty sure the lawsuits would have put them out of business.
Additive fear amuses me.
Post on.
 
I have used seafoam in the gas and ran it down a vacuum line. It works great.
But it is a solvent and a pretty dang strong one at that. I have mixed it with oil in bottles and found that a little bit thins the oil down alot!
MMO is a light oil, not a solvent. I have used it alot and found it doesn't thin oil nearly as much as solvents like seafoam and B12.
So I like to use it in everything except motor oil. But thats just my personal preference, if it works for you then go for it.
thumbsup2.gif
 
I think it's settled, I'm swapping to Mobil 1 Syn High Mileage 5w-20. Is there a best practice for swapping from Conventional to Synthetic? Does it matter? I'll be draining Mobil 1 Super 5000 conventional and replacing with synthetic, any problems with new syn oil mixing with the old conv oil left behind?

Looks like the consensus is to NOT put seafoam in the crankcase and just let the oil help keep the engine clean.

Fuel additive suggestions seem to lean towards techron or gumout. I've used techron for years and will start adding to fuel system again. I do still plan on using seafoam occasionally though the vacuum line as a direct treatment to the engine.
 
I've been running Mobil 1 Syn High Mileage 5w-30 for about a 1.5 months now and I'm noticing quite a bit of blueish smoke when I first crank my truck. I'm assuming that since this is a thinner oil than what I was using and seals having some wear on them is the reason... Should I be concerned at all? It hasn't affect oil levels yet but I don't think it's been long enough for that. Should it eventually (and hopefully) stop if the high mileage additives actually work properly on the seals? I'm about to be changing plugs, COPS, fuel filter, etc... Was curious if I should do anything to address this.

Thanks,
Chris
 
Originally Posted By: wckelly
Thanks for the suggestion so promptly... Just out of curiosity, why? I understand the oil recommendation but why motorcraft over fram filter and why no seafoam in crankcase? Would anything be good in the crankcase to remove unwanted materials not disposed of by just pulling the drain plug?

A high quality motor oil removes unwanted materials not caught by the filter when you pull the drain plug.

Inexpensive Fram filters, and Ecore Champion-made filters, look pretty chintzy when disassembled, with lots of glue and cardboard.

However, they do seem to filter okay.

Motorcraft and its factory brothers, Purolator and Bosch, contain a lot more metal and quality parts. Whether the oil knows that is another matter.
 
At what point should I be concerned with burning a little oil at start up? How much is considered too much oil to add between changes?
 
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Chris,

Hello, and welcome to the forum!

Get rid of the Engine Restore, Fram filter, and Seafoam.

Mobil Super High Mileage and a Motorcraft filter would be appropriate for both.



Agreed, with QS Defy as a second option. It may be a wive's tale, but Engine Restore has a reputation for being harsh and a last resort.
 
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