First Oil Change for my Hyundai Veloster

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I love my new Veloster and want to take good care of it! It has the same 1.6L GDI engine (with "direct fuel injection") as the more common Hyundai Accent. I am aware there is controversy regarding whether frequent early oil changes are beneficial for a new car. My manual does not really address this issue. So I have a few questions which may sidestep the primary controversy....

Is it possible an early oil change or two (much sooner than Hyundai's recommended OCI) could do more harm than good? Does the factory fill contain additives which aid in the engine break-in process? If so, what are they and when (or at what odometer reading) do they cease to be important?

I have read a few forum posts claiming the Veloster's factory fill is Quaker State synthetic oil (the car is made in Korea), but these posts may be just repeating a single source rumor. My dealership's service adviser said the factory fill is not synthetic and Hyundai does not recommend using synthetic oil. I really don't have much reason to believe him either, however. Has anyone analyzed the factory fill to determine whether it is synthetic? Is it possible that synthetic oil would not protect this engine as well as dino oil?

If the factory fill is synthetic, then quite a few new car owners are replacing their synthetic FF oil with dino oil soon after taking possession of their vehicle to flush out suspended particles in the oil caused by the engine break-in process. Is it possible that synthetic oil with suspended particles in it provides better protection than fresh dino oil?
 
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Round 1
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
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Round 1

Yep, lets see how long this goes before it gets ugly.
 
1. Have no clue if they use break in oil. I see no harm in changing oil early during break in, whether it's needed is another story. Millions of cars get broke in and have high wear metals for 15,000 plus miles , engines last 100,000 thousands of miles.
2. Dino vs. Synthetic- Neither is better or worse. It is which will last longer if you intended to extend your oil changes, it is up to you to find out what you want. Both are fine and neither will hurt your engine. There are many conditions to look at when choosing your oil: Time, Length, Price, Conditions in which drivin in and ect.
3.Synthetic will not suspend particles better than dino. Synthetic and dino are almost equal when you talk moderate to short O.C.I. It's when you stretch you oil changes that Synthetics are better and more cost effective. Some applications require synthetics do to high heat, shearing ability and stressful load.

P.S.- Follow you owners manual and stick to what they suggest. Since you are under warranty it's best to do exactly what it guides you to do for you maintenance. It must suggest what grade of oil and what oil type they recommend.
 
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Originally Posted By: jorton
Owner dumped FF very early and analyzed second fill used oil.

low wear metal levels

Hyundai must be breaking in engines at the factory and changing first fill before shipping cars to dealerships.


No, maybe the early dump got most of the break in wear metals out. People against dumping the FF early please note the word "maybe". lol
 
We on this site who know better than the engineers who build and test their engines dump the FF early. Those of us who think the engineers who build and test their engines know what they speak of, follow their advice on when to change out the first oil fill. Let the useless arguing begin. :))
 
Originally Posted By: Eddie
We on this site who know better than the engineers who build and test their engines dump the FF early. Those of us who think the engineers who build and test their engines know what they speak of, follow their advice on when to change out the first oil fill. Let the useless arguing begin. :))


Owners Manual: When in doubt do exactly what it says. As for Engineers hopefully they are much better than the Chrysler Engineers who designed my 2.7Liter Intrepid..LOL!
 
Originally Posted By: jorton
Owner dumped FF very early and analyzed second fill used oil.

low wear metal levels

Hyundai must be breaking in engines at the factory and changing first fill before shipping cars to dealerships.


Thank you for this link. Though encouraging, it would have been more persuasive if the used factory fill oil was also analyzed. One could argue that most of the harmful metallic particles were produced during the first 1000 kms and were flushed out when the FF oil was dumped.
 
Originally Posted By: Topo
...
2. Dino vs. Synthetic- Neither is better or worse. It is which will last longer if you intended to extend your oil changes, it is up to you to find out what you want. Both are fine and neither will hurt your engine. There are many conditions to look at when choosing your oil: Time, Length, Price, Conditions in which drivin in and ect.
3.Synthetic will not suspend particles better than dino. Synthetic and dino are almost equal when you talk moderate to short O.C.I. It's when you stretch you oil changes that Synthetics are better and more cost effective. Some applications require synthetics do to high heat, shearing ability and stressful load.

P.S.- Follow you owners manual and stick to what they suggest. Since you are under warranty it's best to do exactly what it guides you to do for you maintenance. It must suggest what grade of oil and what oil type they recommend.


The manual recommends Quaker State oil (grade 5W-20 for best fuel economy) but does not address synthetic versus dino.

I have read most engine wear occurs at start-up when the engine is cold because the oil is too thick to properly lubricate. I also read that synthetic oil does not get as thick as dino when cold so it protects the engine better (before normal operating temperature is reached). Are there particular brands of dino oil that come close to synthetic oil's cold temperature fluidity?
 
I would definitely recommend using a 'syn' oil in this vehicle since it is a GDI. You should really use a low NOACK volatility oil like Pennzoil Ultra or Valvoline Synpower. Conventional oils with their higher burn off, can cause the fuel system to get dirtier sooner than normal.

Pennz. ULTRA appears to have great NOACK #'s that is what I use in my Sonata.
 
I can only share my experience.

In 1999, I brought home a brand new Ford Contour SVT. 2.5 V6, very high specific output for a normally aspirated engine, considering it was 1999. 200hp = 80 HP / L.

I changed the oil for the first time around 500 miles. Then I changed it at 3000 miles. I used M1 right from the first change. Then I slowly went longer.... and longer.... till around 100,000 miles, I was doing 11k and 12k mile OCI with GC and M1, with a Motorcraft FL820S, and the results from Blackstone were FANTASTIC. They kept taunting me to push it more.

I didn't baby this little V6, it saw full throttle runs up to redline multiple times a day and I held lower gears on ramps (manual trans). Also did some track days.

Traded the car around 120k miles and the engine was by far the best part of that car with 0 issues.
 
Originally Posted By: Eddie
We on this site who know better than the engineers who build and test their engines dump the FF early. Those of us who think the engineers who build and test their engines know what they speak of, follow their advice on when to change out the first oil fill. Let the useless arguing begin. :))



you forgot the part about marketing and letting it overrule the engineers for the illusion of low maintenance. I believe the engineers know better than me? yes.

do I believe that is what is in the owners manual.... not always.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: Trav
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Round 1

Yep, lets see how long this goes before it gets ugly.


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Originally Posted By: jorton
Hyundai must be breaking in engines at the factory and changing first fill before shipping cars to dealerships.


Completely bogus statement that will now be repeated ad infinitum...
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: MJSykes
I love my new Veloster and want to take good care of it! It has the same 1.6L GDI engine (with "direct fuel injection") as the more common Hyundai Accent. I am aware there is controversy regarding whether frequent early oil changes are beneficial for a new car. My manual does not really address this issue. So I have a few questions which may sidestep the primary controversy....

Is it possible an early oil change or two (much sooner than Hyundai's recommended OCI) could do more harm than good? Does the factory fill contain additives which aid in the engine break-in process? If so, what are they and when (or at what odometer reading) do they cease to be important?

I have read a few forum posts claiming the Veloster's factory fill is Quaker State synthetic oil (the car is made in Korea), but these posts may be just repeating a single source rumor. My dealership's service adviser said the factory fill is not synthetic and Hyundai does not recommend using synthetic oil. I really don't have much reason to believe him either, however. Has anyone analyzed the factory fill to determine whether it is synthetic? Is it possible that synthetic oil would not protect this engine as well as dino oil?

If the factory fill is synthetic, then quite a few new car owners are replacing their synthetic FF oil with dino oil soon after taking possession of their vehicle to flush out suspended particles in the oil caused by the engine break-in process. Is it possible that synthetic oil with suspended particles in it provides better protection than fresh dino oil?



MJSykes,

Since this is your first oil change I'd change it only when it's officially time to do so. Regardless of the type of oil the factory has used don't do anything to void the warranty.

Check out another dealership and see what there opinion is. If you find one that doesn't mid synthetic then I'd start using that particular dealership. I personally see no reasdon why you can't use synthetic. Read your manual and see if they approve it.

Durango
 
Originally Posted By: Durango

Since this is your first oil change I'd change it only when it's officially time to do so. Regardless of the type of oil the factory has used don't do anything to void the warranty.

Check out another dealership and see what there opinion is. If you find one that doesn't mid synthetic then I'd start using that particular dealership. I personally see no reasdon why you can't use synthetic. Read your manual and see if they approve it.

Durango


I do not think an early oil change would void the warranty.

Rather than consulting more dealerships who I have no reason to believe, I may ask a private mechanic who I think is good.

Another option I am considering is to just change the oil filter and take a sample of the oil for analysis. If my oil is filled with harmful metallic particles, they could be compromising the filter....so changing the filter would help a bit. Right?

Does the standard Blackstone oil analysis indicate whether the oil is dino or synthetic?
 
I stand corrected. Hyundai engines are not broke in at the factory.

From Turbo Sonata Forums

"Thank you for contacting Hyundai Motor America. We are happy to offer suggestions on breaking in the engine for your 2011 Sonata Turbo when you receive it.

Although no special break-in period is needed, following these few simple precautions for the first 600 miles (1,000 km) may add to the performance, economy, and life of your vehicle:
• Do not race the engine.
• While driving, keep your engine speed (rpm, or revolutions per minute) between 2,000 rpm and 4,000 rpm.
• Do not maintain a single speed for long periods of time, either fast or slow. Varying engine speed is needed to properly break-in the engine.
• Avoid hard stops, except in emergencies, to allow the brakes to seat properly.
• Don't let the engine idle longer than 3 minutes at one time.
• Don't tow a trailer during the first 1,200 miles (2,000 km) of operation.

When you receive your Sonata, we recommend registering your vehicle on our website http://www.myhyundai.com. This will provide the added benefit of an owner's section which allows you to receive an electronic copy of your Owner's Manual, service coupons, our Inside Hyundai News that will keep you up to date on new vehicle introductions and special purchase offers. You will need your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) when registering.

Thank you for contacting Hyundai Consumer Affairs."
 
Break that engine properly. Keep the factory fill until you have to change it according to the manual.

FF is not synthetic oil according to people on hyundai-forums who have contacted their respective dealerships. As to what brand of oil? No one is sure and it isn't a big deal.


Just put whatever oil... I've put four different brands of oil in my accent since buying it last year: Mobil Super (non synthetic that my dealership carries), Kendall conventional oil, Kendall liquid titanium (synthetic), Quaker State Ultimate (synthetic) and now it has Pennzoil.

My car's performance has not changed. it still runs great and I get the advertised gas mileage if I drive it conservatively, but most of the time I do not as I like this car and it likes to go fast.
 
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